Category: Tablas Creek

Chateauneuf-du-Pape’s Hidden Gems: New Varietal Wines

“Would you like a rare and totally obscure red wine or how about a difficult to pronounce white?” For the latter, sommeliers may someday suggest a Bourboulenc. As for a rare red, then it could be a Muscardin, a Counoise, or a Cinsaut.  

With the recent release of a Muscardin, “one of the most obscure wine grapes,” Tablas Creek Vineyard has now made varietal wines from each and every permitted grape variety in Chateauneuf-du-Pape (CdP).

Better yet, Bourboulenc and other once unknown varieties are being made by many other wineries, again thanks to Tablas Creek which imported and propagated all of them and over time sold something like 5 million cuttings to over 600 wineries. 

Every wine lover is familiar with the big three GSM reds and in recent years, both Roussanne and Picpoul have emerged from the pack as white wine choices. But what about the others that call Chateauneuf-du-Pape home?

Well, I’ve had the opportunity to try most of them and discovered several exciting possibilities for new varietal wines to expand our taste experiences.

At this difficult and confusing juncture for wine, maybe the downtrend in sales can be reversed by first having more choices. And with some of these new varietal wines, those just looking into wine might find them to be an easy to access onramp. One free from all the snobby historical baggage, vintage charts and point scores that probably turn newcomers off.  

Once venturing into the less travelled wine world, there’s always something new. For example, I learned there are now 18 permitted grapes. Originally when the Chateauneuf AOC regulations were drawn up there were 13. 

Among the additions you’ll see the expanded Grenache family that now includes Grenache Blanc and Gris and a couple of Picpoul siblings. Also, I had to be reminded that neither Viognier nor Marsanne, which are so much a part of wines from the Southern Rhone, are not members of the CdP family.

The Full CdP Roster

 Though my mind set is still stuck on 13 grapes permitted in Chateauneuf, here for the record are those now actually allowed:

Red Varieties: 

Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre, Cinsault, Counoise, Vaccarèse, Muscardin, Terret Noir, Picpoul Noir.

White Varieties:

 Grenache Blanc, Grenache Gris, Clairette Blanche, Clairette Rose, Roussanne, Bourboulenc, Picpoul Blanc, Picpoul Gris, Picardan

5 Other Wineries to Watch As We Keep Score

Several other wineries have joined Tablas Creek and have been exploring varieties other than Syrah, Grenache and Mourvedre. Here are the other major players I highly recommend:

Holly’s Hills Vineyard in El Dorado   hollyshill.com 

Acquiesce Vineyard in Acampo:      acquiescevineyards.com 

Starfield Vineyard in El Dorado:       starfieldvineyards.com

J. Dusi in Paso Robles :                   jdusiwines.com 

Red Door in Paso Robles                reddoorranchvineyards.com 

First Stop: Bourboulenc

Here’s a white wine with a name that could spark conversations or possibly be included in a French pronunciation final exam. “An ancient white grape from the region surrounding Avignon,  it is still valued in France for its vigor, floral character and ability to maintain acids in warm climates.” Susan Tipton of Acquiesce sees it as a natural fit for Lodi because “This late maturing variety is great at maintaining its acidity throughout the growing season.”

 I recently tasted two standouts that clearly indicate Bourboulenc is a complete wine on its own.  And with climate change, it could well be the white grape of the future.

Tablas Creek Vineyard Adelaida Hills District Paso Robles Bourboulenc 2022 $40. 

From 2/3rd of an acre, this is the winery’s 4th Bourboulenc and it is wonderfully unusual. Medium straw in color, it offers an intriguing aromatic mix of orange rind, apricot and lychee nut. Surprisingly rich and round on the palate, it combines orange and citrus flavors with a hint of stone fruit. The texture is rich, and then it finishes with a rush of lemony flavors and bright acidity. All of this is to be enjoyed in a refreshing wine with only 12% alcohol. 

To summarize: lovely aromas, terrific texture, mouthwatering flavors and youthful acidity holding it together. 91

Acquiesce Winery Mokelumne River, Lodi Bourboulenc 2023 $37

Acquiesce is an exciting new winery focusing on white wines and offering a wide range of Rhone-inspired wines. From the estate vineyard, which has the distinction of being the very first planted in the U.S. to this varietal, the grapes were harvested in late September. The wine is stainless steel fermented and then lees aged until being bottled. 

In the glass it is pale straw in color with a delicate aroma of lime and ginger. Nice and lively on the palate it offers flavors of melon and some chalky nuances. Round and smooth in texture, it has a lengthy finish with a chalky, lip-smacking finale.91

Conclusion: Move over Chardonnay. What’s not to like? 

Cinsaut

Cinsaut is also spelled as Cinsault for some reason. From Josh of Holly’s Hill: “Cinsaut is an interesting grape. It grows with huge oblong, olive-like, berries that seem to have no flavor as harvest gets closer and then all of a sudden, bam!, there’s the flavor.  We like it for its juicy fruits, chili spice and it makes for a very nice food wine.” 

It is fairly common as a Rose, and Long Walk Vineyard in Southern Oregon makes an impressive Rose from Cinsaut.  It is well-known in South Africa on its own and as a parent of Pinotage. California’s acreage is under 100 with the Bechthold Vineyard in Lodi leading the way. Tablas Creek planted it in 2017.

From Tablas Creek: “Its aromas of spicy raspberry, violet, and black tea, and flavors of tart cherry, redcurrant, and new leather make it a useful blending partner to higher-alcohol, more tannic red grapes, and it makes a delicious lighter red on its own.” 

Starfield Vineyards El Dorado, Cinsaut 2019  $32

 From its 31 acre vineyard, Starfield produces several Rhone wines as well as others in its “Mountain Mediterraneans” program. Fresh picked strawberry and cranberry juice dominate the refreshing aroma in this medium light-bodied 2019 red. But it really brings on the charm as its lively flavors expand across the midpalate with fresh berry and spice and red fruit persisting well into the aftertaste. More than a summer sipper, this is a versatile food companion. And delicious.92

Holly’s Hill Vineyard, El Dorado Cinsaut 2020 $28

Though Cinsaut is classified as a lightweight, this is no such thing. Based on its color and the initial sniff, my instinct says this could be a Cotes du Rhone Villages. A real good one! But then after an initial taste, it comes across with subtle, but charming flavors that don’t match anything in my experience. Its bright, fresh cranberry aroma mingles with spices and black tea, and the flavors are full of fresh picked dark cherries.  Balanced, with light tannin it finishes on a slightly tart note and lingering berries. 92

Conclusion: However you spell it, this is a red to explore. 

Clairette Blanche

To me Clairette Blanche is a welcome change of pace white with a bright future in California.  “Once one of the most widely planted white grapes in the south of France, it is now seeing a resurgence because of its freshness, its ability to express minerality, and its capacity to thrive in warm climates.” It was imported in 2003 by Tablas Creek.

Paper Street Vineyards J.Dusi Paso Robles (California) Clairette Blanche 2023 $44

From the Dusi family’s 106 acre vineyard in the Willow Creek AVA, Paper Street is a line of limited volume wines made by Janell Dusi. Clairette Blanche is regarded as a versatile white grape in Provence, the Languedoc and in South Africa. The variety was not available in California until 2009, and the first was made by Tablas Creek in 2014 and Janell followed in 2016. 

The aroma of her 2023 is an enchanting melange of green apple and peach with lime and fennel. It is medium full bodied, mouth-filling wine with vibrant flavors of youthful green fruit conveyed by crisp acidity. Peach and subtle lime linger in the palate cleansing aftertaste. Absolutely lovely. 91

Conclusion: Off to An Impressive Start! 

Grenache Blanc

Grenache Blanc is the tenth most widely planted white grape in France, and the fastest-growing white Rhone in California. Winemakers love working with it and it is widely adaptable to climates. Here are solid examples from two different regions.

Curran Santa Barbara County Grenache Blanc 2022 $22.00

Kris Curran rose to fame as winemaker for Sea Smoke. In 1997, she started her own label  and has been offering a Grenache Blanc since 2003. Entirely stainless steel fermented and with no malo-lactic, this is an all-purpose white to enjoy as an aperitif but it has the body and vibrancy to complement full-flavored entrees. It offers bright aromas of melon and mango with some lime and floral notes. The texture is pleasantly smooth and mouth-coating with decent acidity to add length. Melon flavors continue through the lingering aftertaste. This winery also works with Grenache Gris. 90

Klinker Brick Winery  “Under the Sea” Lodi Grenache Blanc 2023 $20

Made from a vineyard planted in 2011 that sits 13 feet below sea level, the wine is entirely stainless steel fermented and was lees aged for 31 days. First thing noted is that the color is almost opaque with a faint/pale straw look. The nose starts out with direct lemon and  some lime, and then the palate is big and plush. Peach and lime come through in the flavors that are all about freshness. Soft and creamy, it takes you to a gentle finish with just enough acidity. Fun and ever so easy to drink. 1200 cases

91

Conclusion: Move over Pinot Grigio. Keep an eye out for a new release of Grenache Blanc from Rhone specialist, Terre Rouge in the Sierra Foothills, Ridge Vineyards from Paso Robles and, of course, Tablas Creek from 2024.

Counoise 

Josh of Holly’s Hills has this to say: Leaning toward cherry fruit, “Counoise also tends to have a spicy quality that we like and we use it sparingly in our Patriarche blend where it offers highlights of red fruits and spice in the background. It’s a bit challenging to grow.” 

To Jason of Tablas Creek: “Counoise is a translucent purple-red, and has a vibrant, spicy character, with flavors of anise, strawberries, and blueberries. Counoise also makes a delicious single-varietal wine with the character of a Cru Beaujolais: earth, spice, intense floral fruit, light body, vibrant acidity and soft tannins.”

Holly’s Hill Vineyard, El Dorado Counoise 2020 $28

Excellent, deep color with an aroma of raspberries, lovely baking spices and floral notes. On the palate it offers vibrant flavors of spices and berries. The subtle floral component adds intrigue and there’s plenty of crisp acidity keeping it nicely woven together. Tannins are light and smooth. And the finish is fresh and long with spices such as cinnamon and clove.  It is reminiscent of a Moulin-a-Vent in weight and direct appeal, but it offers more layers as a result of the floral note and baking spices.  92     

Conclusion: Counoise has great potential as a beautiful drink now red.

Picpoul

Native to the Languedoc region of Southern France, Picpoul Blanc produces wines known in France for their bright acidity, minerality, and clean lemony flavor. Today the roughly 3,800 acres in France are centered around the village of Pinet in the Côteaux de Languedoc, whose Picpoul de Pinet wines are widely available.

From Tablas Creek: “in California, Picpoul maintains its bright acidity, but also develops an appealing tropical lushness. It is quite rich in the mouth, with an exceptionally long finish. When we have enough fruit, we bottle Picpoul Blanc as a single varietal, and the wine shows a rich nose of pear, pineapple and spice. In the mouth, buttery flavors of pineapple and orange are balanced by crisp acids.”

Vaccarèse

Tablas Creek Vineyard Adelaida District Paso Robles (California) Vaccarèse 2023 $40

This is the 4th vintage of the little-known and rarely grown Vaccarese and it is downright delightfully different. Medium garnet in color, it opens quickly to showcase enchanting rose petal, tea and strawberry on the nose. Medium bodied with delicate flavors of berries and spice with nuances of cherries and black tea.  It finishes with light tannin and a peppery note. It leaves you wondering why this grape remains obscure.  246 cases made.The winery blends some into its flagship Esprit de Tablas red. 92

Terret Noir 

An ancient grape from the Languedoc, its acreage has declined and today in Châteauneuf-du-Pape there are just 2 acres. It is quite light in color, but makes for a pleasant, fun red wine, based on my only tasting.

Tablas Creek Vineyard Adelaida Hills District Paso Robles Terret Noir 2021 $40

 Originally from the Languedoc, it has seldom been made on its own, most often blended with Grenache or its fellow family members,Terret Gris and Terret Blanche. Tablas Creek bottled 70 cases in 2021 and offers it at the winery.  Once poured, it has an unusual light red color that sets it apart from most red wines. The aroma is also strikingly unusual, neither berry-ish nor overtly fruity, it offers a pretty floral nose of roses and orange blossom. While light medium bodied at best, it delivers refreshing flavors reminiscent of red currants that are sustained and persistent. Gentle, fresh and lively in the finish, it is altogether pleasant and refreshing. Not an easy match with traditional food, it is a fun aperitif style red.

Muscardin

Muscardin is a rare grape that appears never to have been very common, or found anywhere outside the Rhone. “With only 27 acres planted in the Châteauneuf-du-Pape and even less in the rest of France, it represents one of the more obscure varieties.”

Tablas Creek Vineyard Adelaida District Paso Robles Muscardin 2023 $40

With this Muscardin, Tablas Creek has now made a single varietal wine from each of the permitted varieties allowed in Chateauneuf-du-Pape. With only 27 acres of Muscadin planted in France, this is a rare opportunity to taste a wine without expectations. It is medium dark in color, and the aroma initially is fresh fruit, similar to a Gamay. But with airing, it displays more red cherry and pomegranate with a touch of rose petal. Lively and smooth on the palate, it has pleasant bright somewhat herbal flavors and a gentle finish. In a word,”elegant” overall. 21 cases made. 90

Grenache Gris

Grenache Gris is often blended with Grenache Blanc in France, and the track record is very impressive. For the latest on Grenache Gris here, I defer to Randy Caparoso whose “Wine Clarion” on Substack has a brilliant in depth report

Alouette: A Fresh Take on Grenache You Need to Try

“The Ambassador of terroir” is how Kermit Lynch introduced a selection of Grenache-based French wines. Kermit Lynch, one of the most respected wine importing companies, then added: “Grenache yields an astounding range of experiences, from dense and soulful to bright and ethereal.” Leave it to Kermit and his crew to come up with such a brilliant description.

“Grenache is the new Pinot Noir” was the best I could come up with a few months back. As someone who came to wine during the sticky sweet Grenache Rose heyday, my admiration for Grenache had to overcome a few bad experiences. But now I’m a big fan.

A new Grenache just recently encountered offered yet another reason to appreciate Grenache: it is a red wine that can be chilled and enjoyed without compromises:. 

“Alouette” is the name of this Grenache made by Tablas Creek Vineyards. The back label says it is “intended for early drinking, ideally served chilled.” The name “Alouette” was chosen for this wine because it conveys a sense of fun. 

Suggesting chilling a red wine is not totally unprecedented, but the wine usually mentioned is a Beaujolais, especially Beaujolais Nouveau. And today, there are low alcohol, pet nat or other light wines like the latest “Blouge”arriving on the scene trying to capture a new wine market. But the difference is that Alouette is a solid wine with normal alcohol (over 13%), has authentic Grenache character and has an affinity for food. 

So listen up you wine snobs with your vintage charts who talk down to anyone putting an ice cube in a glass of red or keeping the bottle in the fridge. You may have something to do with the lack of interest the young generation has for wine.Too many rules and rituals when what is needed is for many to chill out so to speak.

Tablas Creek Vineyards has scored so many “firsts” since it arrived in Paso Robles that it wasn’t a total surprise to see it break the ice (sorry about that pun) on chilling red wines. Afterall, under the direction of Jason Hass, Tablas Creek has made a single varietal wine from each of the permitted varieties allowed in Chateauneuf-du-Pape. I’ve been lucky to have tasted many of them  and am now a fan of Bourboulenc, Clairette Blanche, Terret Noir…and, sorry, I wandered off course.

Back to Alouette the wine. Being quite vigorous, Grenache yields a big crop in some years. 2024 was one of those vintages and as Jason explains: “We decided to make two wines: our traditional varietal bottling of Grenache, from the more classic, structured, deeper lots, and a new wine from the highest-toned, palest, and juiciest lots that we’re calling Alouette.”  

The year before  the winery offered the wine in boxes and kegs. But as Jason explained, the feedback they got was that the wine needed to be in bottles. And so the 2024 Alouette is presented in a clear bottle which leaves no doubt it is a red wine. Jason concludes,”This year we’re expanding it to national scale and reducing the price to $30 SRP so it can be a viable wine by the glass candidate for restaurants (at $35 it was just a little too expensive).”

My note for the 2024 Alouette is that it is a medium red in color, and the aroma is very assertive with cranberry and strawberry to it along with a hint of licorice. Feels smooth on the palate with balancing acidity and flavors that fan out featuring cranberry. Pleasing bright fruit in the finish with no hint of tannin, oak, or alcohol coming through when served chilled.

Overall, it is different yet attractive and seems like a perfect wine by the glass candidate. 

Perhaps Kermit Lynch’s “bright and ethereal” is a little too poetic, but “Alouette” by Tablas Creek is a refreshing new take on Grenache. And a tasty, chillable red!

Exploring the Rhones Less Traveled

Having long been intrigued by Rhone wines, I regularly check out theTablas Creek Vineyards blog. A recent post mentioning the availability of Terret Noir and Bourboulenc stopped me in my tracks. Of all the varieties permitted to grow in Chateauneuf-du-Pape these two were total mysteries to me.

Never one to pass up an opportunity to try a new wine and maybe learn something along the way, I reached out to Jason Hass.  As always, he was helpful and informative and kindly made it possible for me to taste these two new Tablas Creek wines. 

 In wildly different ways, both the Bourboulenc and the Terret Noir were exciting new experiences. That set me off on a mission to explore other lesser known Rhone varieties, those usually dismissed or ignored as blenders, to see what they might offer as varietal wines.

But first, here are my notes on those two amazing wines that had me saddling up for this journey:

Tablas Creek Vineyard Adelaida Hills District Paso Robles Bourboulenc 2022 $40

From 2/3rd of an acre, this is the winery’s 4th Bourboulenc and it is wonderfully unusual. Medium straw in color, it offers an intriguing aromatic mix of orange rind, apricot and lychee nut. Surprisingly rich and round on the palate, it combines orange and citrus flavors with a hint of stone fruit. The texture is rich, and then it finishes with a rush of lemony flavors and bright acidity. All of this is to be enjoyed in a refreshing wine with only 12% alcohol. To summarize: lovely aromas, terrific texture, mouthwatering flavors and youthful acidity holding it together. A great food wine. What’s not to like?  94

Tablas Creek Vineyard Adelaida Hills District Paso Robles Terret Noir 2021 $40

Originally from the Languedoc, Terret Noir has seldom been made on its own, most often blended with Grenache or its fellow family members,Terret Gris and Terret Blanche. Tablas Creek bottled 70 cases in 2021 and offers it at the winery.  Once poured, it has an unusual light red color that sets it apart from most red wines. The aroma is also strikingly unusual, neither berry-ish nor overtly fruity, it offers a pretty floral nose of roses and orange blossom. While light medium bodied at best, it delivers refreshing flavors reminiscent of red currants that are sustained and persistent. Gentle, fresh and lively in the finish, it is all together pleasant and refreshing. It is a fun party or aperitif style red. Fun is good, right? 92

My takeaway after trying these two unusual wines was a suspicion that there probably are other lesser-known Rhone blending varieties that might be worthwhile looking into. And sure enough, by continuing along the Rhone road less traveled, I encountered four other Rhone varieties that also have much to offer as stand alone wines and, best of all, these four are being made by several key California winemakers, a few original Rhone Rangers and some new, younger folks dedicated to Rhone wines.

The four wines are two whites, Marsanne and Roussanne and two reds, Cinsaut and Counoise. Grenache Gris was on my list, but not many are available. Picpoul wines are enjoying a well-deserved surge, but are not as unusual as are Roussanne and Marsanne.

 Marsanne is hardly a newcomer since Bob Lindquist who founded Qupe, made California’s first back in 1987. But it is still usually downplayed as part of a blend with Viognier or Roussanne. And while there are many attractive blends now coming from Australia and Santa Barbera, on its own, Marsanne is still not that common. 

And from what I’ve experienced at this early stage, I can only wonder why. Marsanne is, afterall, the white grape of Hermitage fame. The 2022 Marsanne from Starfield Vineyards in El Dorado is a fantastic, complex and stunning version and it was a great wine to begin the journey. 

Starfield Vineyards El Dorado Marsanne 2022 $34

Aged for 6 months in neutral French oak, this Marsanne is attractive now but has all it needs to age long and well. On the nose it comes across with ripe peach and nectarine fruitiness with citrus as well. Then on the palate which is plush and round, it has vibrant flavors of orange rind

and cloves with minerality as well. Solid and well-integrated, it continues the ripe peach, apricot theme in its lengthy finish. Overall, it is concentrated but so lively it invites a second glass. 165 cases made. 94

After that re-introduction to Marsanne, I reached out to Bob Lindquist who sold Qupe in 2018 but has never stopped making Marsanne. As he explains,”Marsanne and Roussanne are near and dear to me, and I continue to make both of them under my Lindquist Family label.”  He adds, “In 1986 I got Marsanne budwood from Randall Grahm and grafted over some own-rooted Cabernet vines at a small vineyard just outside of Los Olivos called the Ibarra-Young Vineyard.”

Marsanne ages well, Lindquist noted, and his vintages from the early 90s are still showing well he added. As for style, he explains:” I make Marsanne in a lighter, fresher style, all in neutral barrels and bottled after about 8-9 months.”

“Lighter” it may be, but his current release is most attractive:

Lindquist Family Vineyard Edna Valley, Sawyer Lindquist Vineyard Marsanne 2020 $38

All of the fruit is grown in this the Demeter certified biodynamic vineyard.  Yellow with green tint, this wine is medium bodied with lots of youthful character. Aromatically, it combines nectarine and white peach fruit along with some almond and lemony accents. Smooth and refreshing on the palate, it has good acidity for a balanced impression and concludes with lively fruit and a crisp finish. 92

At the end of our conversation, Lindquist added this zinger:”I think Roussanne makes the more important and complex wine…I make mine very much in the same style as Chardonnay.”  

 It turns out Roussanne is a favorite of many other winemakers. Bill Easton of Terre Rouge who makes exquisite Syrah and Viognier chimes in with this: “Roussanne is the most serious white Rhône grape. It reaches its apex with age – slow oxidation.. But it is not easy to grow.” The team at Truchard in Napa simply say “it is a challenge.” And then John Alban the unchallenged champion of Viognier adds this: “There are legions of whites that one can make for all kinds of commercial reasons, even if the resulting wines are less than compelling, but Roussanne is for people you love.”

After tasting the latest from Terre Rouge and Lindquist, I can understand the appeal. Easton offers a perfect summary of what a newcomer will encounter:  “American palates are not accustomed to classic Roussanne characteristics: Straw golden color; with exquisite quince, honey-nut, and beeswax aromas.”  To that I’d add exotic pineapple fragrances, rich viscosity, and depth unique among white wines. It is definitely a white on steroids. The Terre Rouge Roussanne is given several extra years of bottle aging before being released to the market.

The name “Roussanne” relates to the French word for russet which explains the wine’s dark color. In the early phase of the Rhone Ranger period, what was thought to be Roussanne turned out to be Viognier. The true Roussanne was eventually introduced by Tablas Creek, so most of the current plantings began in the late 1990s. 

There’s one major exception: Terre Rouge. Its Roussanne clone is unique, originating from a Chave family parcel on the hill at Hermitage. It is the real deal and you can get a good feel for what Roussanne is capable of if you are fortunate, as I was, to taste the 2011 Terre Rouge and the 2021 Lindquist Family. See the tasting notes at the end. 

Cinsaut is another Rhone that was misidentified and that’s one likely reason why it was long overlooked. It turns out that in Lodi the Bechthold Vineyard which was planted in 1886 is actually the oldest Cinsaut vineyard in the world. Until 2003 when UC Davis proved by DNA testing that it was Cinsaut, the grape was believed to be Black Malvoisie. And it was sold to home winemakers.

Often spelled Cinsault, the grape is used these days to produce Roses or in blends. It is well-represented in South Africa likely due to its parenting role in Pinotage. It was not planted at Tablas Creek until  2017, and for now the winery suggests “it will be a useful blending partner to higher-alcohol, more tannic red grapes, and it makes for delicious lighter reds on its own.”  

Thanks to Holly’s Hill Vineyard in El Dorado, my most recent encounter with a varietal Cinsaut is highly memorable and is a delicious red. Here is my note:

Holly’s Hill Vineyard El Dorado Cinsaut 2020

Based on its color and the initial sniff, my instinct says this could be a Cotes du Rhone Villages. A real good one. But then after the initial taste, it comes across with subtle, but charming flavors that don’t match anything in my experience. Though Cinsaut is classified as a lightweight, this is no such thing. Its bright, fresh cranberry aroma mingles with spices and black tea, and the flavors are full of fresh picked dark cherries and an earthy, leathery back note.  Balanced, with light tannin it finishes on a slightly tart note along with lingering berries. Lovely! 93

Starfield Vineyards, also based in the Sierra Foothills, impressed me earlier with its 2019 Cinsaut. It turns out one of Randall Grahm’s most recent obsessions is with Cinsaut, so he had lots to say when approached.

“But let me tell you why I’m so enamored of Cinsault…. By restricting yields aggressively – via water restriction, bunch and cluster thinning – one can actually produce a very elegant wine of heady fragrance and beautiful color.  For me, this is the classical  (you will forgive the expression) conundrum of how to produce an elegant, complex, let’s call it “continental” wine in a warm and dry Mediterranean climate.”

While Cinsaut seems to be gaining in traction as a Rose and as a red wine in South Africa, that leaves Counoise as the ultimate, unwanted red grape on the Chateauneuf-du-Pape team. It ripens late in the season which makes it unappealing in Southern France. Only 60 acres are planted in California today. 

 But like the last player drafted in pro football, it too could become the next star. Tablas Creek has 6 acres and bottles it as a single varietal from time to time.  Fess Parker offers an excellent Counoise under its Epiphany label which impressed me a few years back. Others now on my radar are the new Counoise from Frick in Dry Creek Valley, Adelaida from Paso Robles and the 2019 Prie Cellars in Lodi. 

 However, in my most recent experience,  Counoise was well-represented by Holly’s Hill and that winery seems ready for stardom based on its 2020. As winemakers Carrie and Josh Bendick explain, when their various new wines were tasted every January, the Counoise lot always stood out. Eventually, the winery converted some Syrah to Counoise. It is difficult to grow, though, they add, because it ripens unevenly and you always have to focus on its color. 

Holly’s Hill Vineyard El Dorado Counoise 2020

Excellent, deep color with an aroma of raspberries, lovely baking spices and floral notes. On the palate it offers vibrant flavors of spices and berries. The subtle floral component adds intrigue and there’s plenty of crisp acidity keeping it nicely woven together. Tannins are light and smooth. And the finish is fresh and long with spices such as cinnamon and clove. 

It is reminiscent of a Moulin-A-Vent in weight and direct appeal but it offers more layers as a result of the floral note and baking spices. 94

As I begin wrapping this journey up, it hits me that this Counoise like the other three wines is a food-friendly wine. Both the new and older Roussanne reviewed here were definitely serious food wines.

Lindquist Family Vineyards Santa Maria Valley Bien Nacido Hillside Roussanne 2021 

From 5 acres on a west facing hillside,planted to the Tablas Creek clone between 1997-2000, Lindquist has made Roussanne from this block since 2000. It is aged on the lees in one year-old barrels for a year and then in neutral oak for 6 months. Bottled unfined and unfiltered, it is light yellow and with aeration, opens up to show pineapple, beeswax, and honey aromas with some oak. Big, generous palate, silky texture with deep flavors of ripe apples, hazelnuts and honey.

A little leesy, creamy texture and a long aftertaste of lemon curd and oak toast. 94

Domaine de la Terre Rouge Sierra Foothills  Monarch Mine Vineyard Roussanne 2011

In 2011, the crop ran into mildew problems and the yield was down by 80%. Following whole cluster pressing, the juice was barrel fermented and the wine aged on the lees. Beginning with its deep golden color, this wine was a unique experience. Rich and deeply concentrated with great viscosity, it delivers ripe pear flavors with some floral notes. Maturing nicely, but still has plenty of life ahead of it. As for a rating, how about rare and wonderful.

All of the wineries singled out here sell their wines direct, so for those wanting to jump aboard and continue the journey into the unknown Rhones, here are the contacts:

www.starfieldvineyards.com

www.hollyshill.com

www.lindquistfamilywines.com

www.terrerougewines.com

So that’s it. Oh, hold on, just got a late breaking news alert from Tablas Creek about another variety:

“Vaccarèse. There are just over 10 acres planted in Chateauneuf, just a little more than that elsewhere in France, and none, until we brought in ours, elsewhere in the world. But we believe it shows great potential, with lovely dark color and floral and herbal aromatics. It’s been so good that it’s already playing a significant role in the Esprit de Tablas.”

Well, now that sounds worth exploring on another trip!