Chateauneuf-du-Pape’s Hidden Gems: New Varietal Wines

“Would you like a rare and totally obscure red wine or how about a difficult to pronounce white?” For the latter, sommeliers may someday suggest a Bourboulenc. As for a rare red, then it could be a Muscardin, a Counoise, or a Cinsaut.  

With the recent release of a Muscardin, “one of the most obscure wine grapes,” Tablas Creek Vineyard has now made varietal wines from each and every permitted grape variety in Chateauneuf-du-Pape (CdP).

Better yet, Bourboulenc and other once unknown varieties are being made by many other wineries, again thanks to Tablas Creek which imported and propagated all of them and over time sold something like 5 million cuttings to over 600 wineries. 

Every wine lover is familiar with the big three GSM reds and in recent years, both Roussanne and Picpoul have emerged from the pack as white wine choices. But what about the others that call Chateauneuf-du-Pape home?

Well, I’ve had the opportunity to try most of them and discovered several exciting possibilities for new varietal wines to expand our taste experiences.

At this difficult and confusing juncture for wine, maybe the downtrend in sales can be reversed by first having more choices. And with some of these new varietal wines, those just looking into wine might find them to be an easy to access onramp. One free from all the snobby historical baggage, vintage charts and point scores that probably turn newcomers off.  

Once venturing into the less travelled wine world, there’s always something new. For example, I learned there are now 18 permitted grapes. Originally when the Chateauneuf AOC regulations were drawn up there were 13. 

Among the additions you’ll see the expanded Grenache family that now includes Grenache Blanc and Gris and a couple of Picpoul siblings. Also, I had to be reminded that neither Viognier nor Marsanne, which are so much a part of wines from the Southern Rhone, are not members of the CdP family.

The Full CdP Roster

 Though my mind set is still stuck on 13 grapes permitted in Chateauneuf, here for the record are those now actually allowed:

Red Varieties: 

Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre, Cinsault, Counoise, Vaccarèse, Muscardin, Terret Noir, Picpoul Noir.

White Varieties:

 Grenache Blanc, Grenache Gris, Clairette Blanche, Clairette Rose, Roussanne, Bourboulenc, Picpoul Blanc, Picpoul Gris, Picardan

5 Other Wineries to Watch As We Keep Score

Several other wineries have joined Tablas Creek and have been exploring varieties other than Syrah, Grenache and Mourvedre. Here are the other major players I highly recommend:

Holly’s Hills Vineyard in El Dorado   hollyshill.com 

Acquiesce Vineyard in Acampo:      acquiescevineyards.com 

Starfield Vineyard in El Dorado:       starfieldvineyards.com

J. Dusi in Paso Robles :                   jdusiwines.com 

Red Door in Paso Robles                reddoorranchvineyards.com 

First Stop: Bourboulenc

Here’s a white wine with a name that could spark conversations or possibly be included in a French pronunciation final exam. “An ancient white grape from the region surrounding Avignon,  it is still valued in France for its vigor, floral character and ability to maintain acids in warm climates.” Susan Tipton of Acquiesce sees it as a natural fit for Lodi because “This late maturing variety is great at maintaining its acidity throughout the growing season.”

 I recently tasted two standouts that clearly indicate Bourboulenc is a complete wine on its own.  And with climate change, it could well be the white grape of the future.

Tablas Creek Vineyard Adelaida Hills District Paso Robles Bourboulenc 2022 $40. 

From 2/3rd of an acre, this is the winery’s 4th Bourboulenc and it is wonderfully unusual. Medium straw in color, it offers an intriguing aromatic mix of orange rind, apricot and lychee nut. Surprisingly rich and round on the palate, it combines orange and citrus flavors with a hint of stone fruit. The texture is rich, and then it finishes with a rush of lemony flavors and bright acidity. All of this is to be enjoyed in a refreshing wine with only 12% alcohol. 

To summarize: lovely aromas, terrific texture, mouthwatering flavors and youthful acidity holding it together. 91

Acquiesce Winery Mokelumne River, Lodi Bourboulenc 2023 $37

Acquiesce is an exciting new winery focusing on white wines and offering a wide range of Rhone-inspired wines. From the estate vineyard, which has the distinction of being the very first planted in the U.S. to this varietal, the grapes were harvested in late September. The wine is stainless steel fermented and then lees aged until being bottled. 

In the glass it is pale straw in color with a delicate aroma of lime and ginger. Nice and lively on the palate it offers flavors of melon and some chalky nuances. Round and smooth in texture, it has a lengthy finish with a chalky, lip-smacking finale.91

Conclusion: Move over Chardonnay. What’s not to like? 

Cinsaut

Cinsaut is also spelled as Cinsault for some reason. From Josh of Holly’s Hill: “Cinsaut is an interesting grape. It grows with huge oblong, olive-like, berries that seem to have no flavor as harvest gets closer and then all of a sudden, bam!, there’s the flavor.  We like it for its juicy fruits, chili spice and it makes for a very nice food wine.” 

It is fairly common as a Rose, and Long Walk Vineyard in Southern Oregon makes an impressive Rose from Cinsaut.  It is well-known in South Africa on its own and as a parent of Pinotage. California’s acreage is under 100 with the Bechthold Vineyard in Lodi leading the way. Tablas Creek planted it in 2017.

From Tablas Creek: “Its aromas of spicy raspberry, violet, and black tea, and flavors of tart cherry, redcurrant, and new leather make it a useful blending partner to higher-alcohol, more tannic red grapes, and it makes a delicious lighter red on its own.” 

Starfield Vineyards El Dorado, Cinsaut 2019  $32

 From its 31 acre vineyard, Starfield produces several Rhone wines as well as others in its “Mountain Mediterraneans” program. Fresh picked strawberry and cranberry juice dominate the refreshing aroma in this medium light-bodied 2019 red. But it really brings on the charm as its lively flavors expand across the midpalate with fresh berry and spice and red fruit persisting well into the aftertaste. More than a summer sipper, this is a versatile food companion. And delicious.92

Holly’s Hill Vineyard, El Dorado Cinsaut 2020 $28

Though Cinsaut is classified as a lightweight, this is no such thing. Based on its color and the initial sniff, my instinct says this could be a Cotes du Rhone Villages. A real good one! But then after an initial taste, it comes across with subtle, but charming flavors that don’t match anything in my experience. Its bright, fresh cranberry aroma mingles with spices and black tea, and the flavors are full of fresh picked dark cherries.  Balanced, with light tannin it finishes on a slightly tart note and lingering berries. 92

Conclusion: However you spell it, this is a red to explore. 

Clairette Blanche

To me Clairette Blanche is a welcome change of pace white with a bright future in California.  “Once one of the most widely planted white grapes in the south of France, it is now seeing a resurgence because of its freshness, its ability to express minerality, and its capacity to thrive in warm climates.” It was imported in 2003 by Tablas Creek.

Paper Street Vineyards J.Dusi Paso Robles (California) Clairette Blanche 2023 $44

From the Dusi family’s 106 acre vineyard in the Willow Creek AVA, Paper Street is a line of limited volume wines made by Janell Dusi. Clairette Blanche is regarded as a versatile white grape in Provence, the Languedoc and in South Africa. The variety was not available in California until 2009, and the first was made by Tablas Creek in 2014 and Janell followed in 2016. 

The aroma of her 2023 is an enchanting melange of green apple and peach with lime and fennel. It is medium full bodied, mouth-filling wine with vibrant flavors of youthful green fruit conveyed by crisp acidity. Peach and subtle lime linger in the palate cleansing aftertaste. Absolutely lovely. 91

Conclusion: Off to An Impressive Start! 

Grenache Blanc

Grenache Blanc is the tenth most widely planted white grape in France, and the fastest-growing white Rhone in California. Winemakers love working with it and it is widely adaptable to climates. Here are solid examples from two different regions.

Curran Santa Barbara County Grenache Blanc 2022 $22.00

Kris Curran rose to fame as winemaker for Sea Smoke. In 1997, she started her own label  and has been offering a Grenache Blanc since 2003. Entirely stainless steel fermented and with no malo-lactic, this is an all-purpose white to enjoy as an aperitif but it has the body and vibrancy to complement full-flavored entrees. It offers bright aromas of melon and mango with some lime and floral notes. The texture is pleasantly smooth and mouth-coating with decent acidity to add length. Melon flavors continue through the lingering aftertaste. This winery also works with Grenache Gris. 90

Klinker Brick Winery  “Under the Sea” Lodi Grenache Blanc 2023 $20

Made from a vineyard planted in 2011 that sits 13 feet below sea level, the wine is entirely stainless steel fermented and was lees aged for 31 days. First thing noted is that the color is almost opaque with a faint/pale straw look. The nose starts out with direct lemon and  some lime, and then the palate is big and plush. Peach and lime come through in the flavors that are all about freshness. Soft and creamy, it takes you to a gentle finish with just enough acidity. Fun and ever so easy to drink. 1200 cases

91

Conclusion: Move over Pinot Grigio. Keep an eye out for a new release of Grenache Blanc from Rhone specialist, Terre Rouge in the Sierra Foothills, Ridge Vineyards from Paso Robles and, of course, Tablas Creek from 2024.

Counoise 

Josh of Holly’s Hills has this to say: Leaning toward cherry fruit, “Counoise also tends to have a spicy quality that we like and we use it sparingly in our Patriarche blend where it offers highlights of red fruits and spice in the background. It’s a bit challenging to grow.” 

To Jason of Tablas Creek: “Counoise is a translucent purple-red, and has a vibrant, spicy character, with flavors of anise, strawberries, and blueberries. Counoise also makes a delicious single-varietal wine with the character of a Cru Beaujolais: earth, spice, intense floral fruit, light body, vibrant acidity and soft tannins.”

Holly’s Hill Vineyard, El Dorado Counoise 2020 $28

Excellent, deep color with an aroma of raspberries, lovely baking spices and floral notes. On the palate it offers vibrant flavors of spices and berries. The subtle floral component adds intrigue and there’s plenty of crisp acidity keeping it nicely woven together. Tannins are light and smooth. And the finish is fresh and long with spices such as cinnamon and clove.  It is reminiscent of a Moulin-a-Vent in weight and direct appeal, but it offers more layers as a result of the floral note and baking spices.  92     

Conclusion: Counoise has great potential as a beautiful drink now red.

Picpoul

Native to the Languedoc region of Southern France, Picpoul Blanc produces wines known in France for their bright acidity, minerality, and clean lemony flavor. Today the roughly 3,800 acres in France are centered around the village of Pinet in the Côteaux de Languedoc, whose Picpoul de Pinet wines are widely available.

From Tablas Creek: “in California, Picpoul maintains its bright acidity, but also develops an appealing tropical lushness. It is quite rich in the mouth, with an exceptionally long finish. When we have enough fruit, we bottle Picpoul Blanc as a single varietal, and the wine shows a rich nose of pear, pineapple and spice. In the mouth, buttery flavors of pineapple and orange are balanced by crisp acids.”

Vaccarèse

Tablas Creek Vineyard Adelaida District Paso Robles (California) Vaccarèse 2023 $40

This is the 4th vintage of the little-known and rarely grown Vaccarese and it is downright delightfully different. Medium garnet in color, it opens quickly to showcase enchanting rose petal, tea and strawberry on the nose. Medium bodied with delicate flavors of berries and spice with nuances of cherries and black tea.  It finishes with light tannin and a peppery note. It leaves you wondering why this grape remains obscure.  246 cases made.The winery blends some into its flagship Esprit de Tablas red. 92

Terret Noir 

An ancient grape from the Languedoc, its acreage has declined and today in Châteauneuf-du-Pape there are just 2 acres. It is quite light in color, but makes for a pleasant, fun red wine, based on my only tasting.

Tablas Creek Vineyard Adelaida Hills District Paso Robles Terret Noir 2021 $40

 Originally from the Languedoc, it has seldom been made on its own, most often blended with Grenache or its fellow family members,Terret Gris and Terret Blanche. Tablas Creek bottled 70 cases in 2021 and offers it at the winery.  Once poured, it has an unusual light red color that sets it apart from most red wines. The aroma is also strikingly unusual, neither berry-ish nor overtly fruity, it offers a pretty floral nose of roses and orange blossom. While light medium bodied at best, it delivers refreshing flavors reminiscent of red currants that are sustained and persistent. Gentle, fresh and lively in the finish, it is altogether pleasant and refreshing. Not an easy match with traditional food, it is a fun aperitif style red.

Muscardin

Muscardin is a rare grape that appears never to have been very common, or found anywhere outside the Rhone. “With only 27 acres planted in the Châteauneuf-du-Pape and even less in the rest of France, it represents one of the more obscure varieties.”

Tablas Creek Vineyard Adelaida District Paso Robles Muscardin 2023 $40

With this Muscardin, Tablas Creek has now made a single varietal wine from each of the permitted varieties allowed in Chateauneuf-du-Pape. With only 27 acres of Muscadin planted in France, this is a rare opportunity to taste a wine without expectations. It is medium dark in color, and the aroma initially is fresh fruit, similar to a Gamay. But with airing, it displays more red cherry and pomegranate with a touch of rose petal. Lively and smooth on the palate, it has pleasant bright somewhat herbal flavors and a gentle finish. In a word,”elegant” overall. 21 cases made. 90

Grenache Gris

Grenache Gris is often blended with Grenache Blanc in France, and the track record is very impressive. For the latest on Grenache Gris here, I defer to Randy Caparoso whose “Wine Clarion” on Substack has a brilliant in depth report

Holiday Wine Sales: Budget-Friendly Tips for Shoppers

Now with the crazy days of holiday shopping hype coming at us from every direction, the major online wine retailers and wine merchants are also doing their best to get our attention. 

Although these Prime, Cyber, Black Friday and what have you holiday sales are now an annual event, lots of circumstances have changed over the last 2 years. People in general are much more focused on soaring prices of eggs and gasoline, or whatever their reference point may be. 

The phrase “sticking to a budget” is now heard in so many circles.

Because wine sales have trailed off over the last 2 years or so, these holiday sales will be closely watched. As of now, wine prices haven’t spiraled because tariffs haven’t made an impact on prices. 

The fact is that there is a glut or over-supply of wines and we have seen the number of wine producers entering the discount world increase as many once solid wineries feel the need to reduce prices to move inventory.

Wine is different from eggs and gas because it is a discretionary product, meaning not vital or necessary. Well, to all but a few of us. If there has been a lesson those in the wine biz should have learned over the last two years as wine sales dipped, it is that non-snobby wine lovers are really no different than other consumers and now realize a need to be extra careful about sticking to a  wine budget. That often means having a target maximum price or price point when buying wine. 

What’s Going on in Online Wine Sales

When previewing t several of the Black Friday deals, I can’t help but notice the many luxury or cult wines that are over $100 a bottle are now being offered at deep discounts. Online seller winespies.com offered the 2020 Caymus Special Selection at $147 ($225 regular price), vivino.com announced a culty Chardonnay for $34.99, regular price $90, while lastbottle.com featured a Pouilly-Fuise for $34, regularly $100.  Another site had the 2018 Beringer Reserve Cabernet at $87.50, roughly 50% off. Earlier this week there was a “sale” of the 2022 Joseph Phelps Insignia, which retails for $350-$400 at $195 a bottle. 

Don’t know about you, but to me even these discounted prices still are not budget-friendly. High ratings and non-stop hype are behind so many of these exorbitant prices.  Some might argue that many wines priced in the 3 digit range are on allocation or enjoy a cult following. Then one wonders why some are offered online to begin with and often at deep discounts. We’ll probably never get a consistent explanation, but that shouldn’t stop us from shopping the sales.

Insider Tips for Savvy Wine Shoppers

One great website to find truly fine and reasonably priced wines is wtso.com  What stood out to me is that its Black Friday sales on November 28-29 has an end of the year Clearance Sale. While it continues with its daily flash sale, wtso has many attractive, highly rated wines in its clearance sale. With a few bottles priced at $11.99, the list is heavy in Italian wines but also has something for every wine drinker. At $19.99 a bottle, you can buy the 2024 Calculated Risk Cabernet, the 2021 Havens Cellars Red Blend, and the 2022 Left Coast Cellars Willamette Valley Pinot Noir. An Old Vine Lodi Zinfandel topped the list of the $11.99  specials.

Wine Access is another website that has dozens of great wines for the budget minded Black Friday shopper. At wineaccess.com  the sale works by knocking an extra 20% off their already discounted prices. For example the 2022 Zinfandel from Marietta Cellars is listed for $25, but with the added discount sells for $20 a bottle.THe extra discount is applied at check out.

 Those wines that stood out to me before the discounts are the Three Wine Company Old Vine Field Blend ($28), Meeker 2022 Grenache ($22), 2023 Lang & Reed Cabernet Franc ($29), 2022 La Vigne Paso Robles Merlot ($21) and a San Luis Obispo Chardonnay from Oceano Vineyards( $18). Others are the Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from Oregon’s Solena Estate. And if you like wines from Australia, Argentina, and France, wineaccess.com has something for you at Black Friday prices.

Another site pushing its Black Friday sales also with a large inventory is wineexpress.com A few caught my attention, especially the J. Dusi Cabernet “The Don” from Paso at $22.49. J. Dusi is a favorite of mine. Also, there’s the Rutherford Ranch Chardonnay for $13.47 and a Reverdy 2021 Cotes du Rhone for $7.47. 

The California Wine Club, one of the oldest, has announced its Black Friday 50% off sale. The sale will continue through Sunday. At $12.50 the 2022 Armida Zinfandel from Dry Creek and the Eden Rift Sauvignon Blanc, also at $12.50 are excellent deals. The full list is worth checking out at cawineclub.com 

When the Dust Settles

These holiday sales will likely be extended way beyond the holidays, but they will end. Most of these are flash sales, daily deals or one-time only sales which not everyone is comfortable with because of the need to act quickly.

A Wake-Up Call for Wine Shoppers!

Wait. Are any wine drinkers actually shopping these days or did Amazon train us all to stay home and let others think for us? Then there was Covid  and now there’s Doordash delivering wines in some states. And subscription wine clubs are happy to deliver a box of unknown wines to your door. Oh well!

As 2025 winds down and the wine market faces a serious oversupply of wines, there’s never been a better time to shop around.  Sure, the online retailers hustling wines at WTSO.com, lastbottle.com and the rest of the gang are now offering a wider range of wines. On November 11th, winelibrary.com is set to offer a variety of wines at the $11.11 a bottle price point. By then Trader Joe’s and Costco will surely have come up with some deals for the holidays.

But the most exciting sale this week is at Grocery Outlet which has about 500 stores across the country. Yes stores, as in places you drive to, check out the shelves, load up a cart, and pay at the registers. Sounds old fashioned to many of you, but  most of us who love a wine bargain can adjust to it.

Yesterday, in a Grocery Outlet in Southern California, the shelves were practically falling over into the aisles. Piled high were wines from Cosentino, reds and whites. The 2023 Cosentino Sauvignon Blanc was excellent and sells for $11.99 a bottle. The winery’s website says that wine retails for $30 but is “out of stock.”  But Grocery Outlet has it along with Cosentino’s Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Rose and others.  It also has the Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon for $19.99 which you can buy direct from the winery for …$82.

Cosentino Vineyards developed a following for its Zinfandel,Merlot,  Cabernet Franc and Sangiovese, but founder, Mitch Cosentino, sold the winery and is no longer involved. It is now part of the Foley Family portfolio, but the overall quality is still better than that of other once-famous brands now  under corporate owners.

Back to my recent shopping adventure, Pinot Noir lovers should check their local Grocery Outlet to see if it stocks the 2021 Diora Pinot Noir from Monterey County. If you prefer Cabernet blends, then the 2019 Red Blend made by Lake Sonoma Vineyards is quite attractive. A few stores carry Napa Cabernet from Monticello Vineyards.

Yes, the offerings vary from store to store with Grocery Outlet. When it comes to bargain priced Bordeaux wines, I find Grocery Outlet is on a par with Trader Joe’s.  Decent, everyday wines from Firestone and Sebastiani are sold at many Grocery Outlets. 

Also, the end of the year is a good time to shop for Rose wines because wines from the most recent  vintage are about to hit the market. Right now, Bonny Doon 2023 Rose, the Central Coast bottling, not the Vin Gris, is a safe bet.

A Unique Take on A Wine Club

Excellent wines, low prices, no-nonsense

Looking for “A wine club with “NO commitments, NO fees, NO cards on file, NO limited selections!”? Or how about a winery dedicated to offering you the “Best bang for your buck”? Well, I happened upon a winery that meets both of these requirements. My introduction to the winery was through its press release challenging other wineries to match its record of having every wine produced rated 90 points or higher.

Challenging other wineries was a clever and unprecedented way to get attention, and it obviously worked for me. But the emphasis on a wine club open to anyone and wines pitched for value was also attention-getting. Here was one winery flying way under the radar, my kind of winery. 

But a wine club anyone can join is really not a club, is it?  Could this be some kind of come on trying to unload mediocre wine, or the real deal?

Peirano Estate Vineyards is the winery and, as I learned through conversations and tastings, is the real deal. It also does things differently, goes against the grain and does so without swagger. Better yet, it  tries to make the wine experience uncomplicated yet fun. A small  winery with no hype about icons, no rockstar winemakers, no strict allocations and waiting lists, and no luxury priced wines?

Located in Lodi, Peirano Estate is family owned and it may be one of the oldest with vineyards established in 1885. The family’s history takes you through the ups and downs of farmers before, during and after Prohibition. Check it out at: www.peirano.com

The family farm now covers 300 acres and is in the hands of the fourth generation, Lance Randolph.  He’s the guy behind the tractor, behind the wines and behind this novel wine club.

A Vineyard Guy

Lance Randolph is said to have been driving tractors up and down the vineyard at the age of six. In 1992, he ventured into winemaking, a transition made easy by being very familiar with the family vineyards. Today the Peirano vineyards are planted to Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Syrah, Viognier, and Petite Sirah. It also “has perhaps the largest single block of old, head-trained, natural rooted Zinfandel left in the state of California.”  Lance adds, “Rather than destroy these beautiful old Lodi Zinfandel vines to make way for larger yielding, more economically advantageous vines, we have decided to harvest the meager 2 tons per acre production.”

With his viticultural background, that was not an impulsive decision. Lance has explored various training and harvesting methods and the winery’s website explains his vineyard management trials and applications in great detail.  For example: “In the 1990s, Lance was one of the first to implement the Geneva Double Curtain system. This system, rather than using one cordon wire connecting the vines through the center, as done with the bilateral cordon system of the 1960s, splits the vine into two and uses two cordon wires spaced three feet apart. This method is highly advantageous for the estate Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot grapes.”  Some of the Cabernet Sauvignon is 50 years old, but the Merlot acreage is newer, planted to six clones.

Anyway, after reading the very detailed background, the one point that sticks out to me is that having gone through numerous possibilities of vineyard management, he now prefers to hand harvest all varieties. That is unusual in Lodi or anywhere today.

An Uncomplicated Business Plan

To continue the theme of going against the grain or the norm, when it comes to selling Peirano wines, the winery favors one price fits all. Whether they be white or red, varietals or blends, barrel aged or not, all 15 wines are priced at $16 a bottle. Not only is that unusual, but the winery offers a mix and match case deal  at 50% off, or $8 bucks a bottle. Shipping is a flat rate of $48. So add $4 and the bottle price is still a reasonable $12.

Why $16?

“We chose $16 per bottle because it reflects our goal of offering exceptional quality at an accessible price. Every bottle of our wine comes from estate-grown fruit—grapes we’ve farmed on our family’s Lodi vineyards for generations. The $16 price point allows us to maintain our hands-on approach in the vineyard and winery, using traditional techniques and sustainable practices, while still keeping our wines affordable enough for everyday enjoyment. It’s a balance between honoring the craftsmanship and heritage behind each bottle and ensuring our wines remain approachable to a wide range of wine lovers.”

So no surprise, the wine club is open to anyone, but how did this come about?  Lance explains:

“I started the mix & match case offer over a decade ago when I realized that all tasting rooms were using a subscription model/wine club scenario. Call me old fashioned but I hate being forced to leave my credit card on file and be told what wine I had to try because the winery was trying to “unload” it on me! So I struggled for a long time to find a unique solution that eliminates all the wine club demands. It all came to our customer needs – they want to pick and choose what they want and get those “great” wine club discounts without all of the wine club requirements. Thus – our “family plan” was born and we actively say ‘ditch the wine club experience and try our novel approach to experiencing wine!’

Welcome to the “No Wine Club Zone”  

Many people enter the”Zone” through the tasting room in Lodi. Visitors can select wines from all 15 or 16 wines available at the time. To sample five, the fee is…$10. 

Most Peirano wines offered today are reds, either blends or varietals. Among the whites, the blended “Sea Enchantress” reviewed earlier is my favorite. The Chardonnay will appeal to those preferring the ripe apple and  buttery style a la Rombauer. 

The red wines range in style from simple and approachable to big, bold and cellar-worthy. The Six Clone Merlot stood out as the best red for everyday enjoyment, and the Malbec is also noteworthy in a drink-now style. With the currently available blends, you sense that the winemaker is using a splash of old vine Zin or old vine Cabernet as his not too secret sauces. 

The first wine I tasted that contained some old vine Zin was the Red “Sea Enchantress.” Here’s my note:

Peirano Estate Vineyards, “The Sea Enchantress” Red Lodi (California) The Artist Series 2020 $16

 So in this wine they combine Petite Sirah, Old Vine Zinfandel, Tempranillo and Syrah. Then it was aged in a combination of French and American oak, 15% new. The result? Well, it is not an in your face, power-packed fruit bomb. Dark in color, it has a beautiful aroma of black olive, licorice, with some blackberry and light oak toast. The ripe flavors offer lots of plum and light cinnamon supported by gentle tannins. Made in a big and approachable style, this is an absolute steal at this price. 92

After that initial encounter,  little encouragement was needed for me to explore more Peirano wines. Of the several red blends reviewed here, the differences between one and another were not dramatic. But they are different, and fun to taste. 

The family apparently has some fun with naming their wines. There’s “Immortal Zin” and “The Other,” along with “Sea Enchantress” and “Illusion,” both labels based on paintings by Alexis Randolph, representing the fifth generation. The 3 components for “The Other”  Red are listed as”This,That, and The Other.”  The back label adds the wine is “Sin-sually delicious.”

 The following notes highlight two of my favs. But for reviews on many others:, go to winereviewonline.com

Peirano Estate Vineyards Lodi (California) Old Vine ”Immortal Zin”  2022 $16

Hand harvested from 120 year old, head prune vines, this is an amazing wine to taste. The deep, dark color and concentrated flavors are expected, but the pleasure here is in the ultra-smooth, velvety texture. Blackberry and strawberry are the central themes, but there’s a floral element that elevates the aroma. Some spice and juicy ripe fruit flavors along with an earthy background continue well into the juicy finish. There’s so much going on you aren’t aware that the wine is 15.5% in alcohol. 93

Peirano Estate Vineyards The Heritage Collection, Lodi (California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2022 $16

From 50 year old vines, this wine was fermented by 3 methods: static, cold soak and rotary fermentation. It was also given extended maceration time and oak aged for one year. It opens gradually to reveal an aroma of ripe plum and graphite along with a slight floral and spice touch. Medium full bodied with concentrated black fruit flavors, it comes across the palate as soft and smooth. With integrated tannins, this is one to enjoy over the next few years.The style is big and juicy with good Cabernet aromatics and flavors presented on a solid framework. 92

 A Super Sale and the Latest Happenings in Online Wine Clubs

 

cawineclub.com 

A Harvest Sale with 30% off all wines was an upbeat headliner coming from the California Wine Club. Based in California, this is one of the oldest and most reliable wine clubs around.

The website went through a redesign and upgrade earlier this year and is not only more attractive but also much easier to use.

As for the wines offered, what is most appealing is that the wineries are real, not custom labels, and the wines are not the typical fare or your pretend cult wine.

As I’ve mentioned before, when you see a $100 or so bottle of wine reduced by 50-60% in a flash sale or a daily offering, it was overpriced to begin with. Regardless of the hype, it is being dumped.

With the current wines offered by the California Wine Club, here are a few of the wines  that have great appeal at 30% and are seldom offered online. 

Heading my list are these:

2020 Handley Cellars Pinot Noir

2021 Testarossa Pinot Noir and also its Chardonnay

2020 Dragonette Syrah from Santa Ynez

2019 Keller Estate Syrah

2020 Wrath Pinot Noir

2020 Jeff Cohn Zinfandel

2022 Onesta Rose of Cinsault

The sale is on until September 30th Code: HARVEST

Other Breaking News!!

Vinesse

Vinesse, once a big and active wine club, is part of Vintage Wine Estates’ portfolio.  Last month, that company filed for bankruptcy and over the last few weeks some brands have been sold at auction. 

Vinesse was recently the target of a bid from the Full Glass company, a specialist in direct to consumer wines. 

Full Glass already owns three wine clubs: Winc, Bright Cellars, and Wine Insiders. So Vinesse seems destined to join this group. 

Vintage Wine Estates was a mix of wineries such as Clos Pegase, Kunde, Swanson, Girard  and brands without the winery like Qupe. It also has custom labels like Bar Dog which must be a woofer.

Since those wineries and brands have been auctioned off to multiple buyers,  Vinesse will likely not have access to them. 

Members may want to stock up on their favorite wines before they disappear.

nakedwines.com

Don’t know what to make of it, if anything, but a few wines from nakedwines.com are showing up in discount stores at drastically reduced prices.

As one example, wines from Rick Boyer, a well-known winemaker, were spotted at several stores. The 2021 Rick Boyer Syrah caught my attention at the $6.99 bottle price. 

Another winemaker in the nakedwine stable is Benjamin Darnault whose wines I’ve liked in the past.

His 2020 La Cote Doree has also been seen on several store shelves for $6.99.

Maybe these winemakers have dropped out of the program. 

Or maybe the particular wine has been discontinued.

Or whatever!!

Savvy Wine Shoppers: Start Your Engines

Exciting online wine deals and steals are really happening.  They are not the typical, over-hyped discounted wines that have been offered over the last year or two.  It strikes me as a new beginning, a fresh start to Spring. 

The real deal door began to swing open around April 1st and by the day of the eclipse, it was no illusion, no April Fool’s prank.

 And the wines that signaled this change  were excellent, time-proven Cabernets, Pinot Noirs,  Chardonnays, a few imports and, well, many others. What was different was the appearance of so many authentic wines from real producers instead of made up private labels and brands. And often, new vintages, newly released wines, not leftovers.

Before getting to the reasons behind this development, let me lists those deals offered online  that caught my attention:

2021 Peju Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, regularly $70, offered at $26 

2021 Daou Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Paso Robles $65 to $39.99

2018 Whitehall Lane Estate Cabernet, Napa Valley $90 to $59

2020 Beringer Vineyards Knights Valley Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon $32 to $23.99

2019 Handley Cellars Anderson Valley Pinot Noir, $37 to $19.

2018 Ketcham Estate Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley $45 to $19.95

2022 Long Meadow Ranch Rose of Pinot Noir, Anderson Valley $32 to $12

2022 Caymus Vineyards, California Cabernet Sauvignon, $75 to $49

These are top names and the reason the last two are cited is to reinforce the fact that new vintages, not old stuff getting dusty in warehouses, are showing up as real deals! That’s a spanking brand new release from Caymus and I’ve not seen any Peju wine so deeply discounted until now. Clos du Val just released its new Cabernet Sauvignon vintage to an online retailer at 20%, not enough to make my list but good support for the trend.

Just now winespies.com announced a 30% off deal on an absolutely great California Chardonnay, one of the top 3-4 made and never ever discounted, until now. It is the 2021 Wayfarer ‘The Estate’ Fort Ross-Seaview Chardonnay 30% off. 

Then I’m seeing a few unknowns and  newbies to the Napa Cabernet scene resorting to the online discounters to help their launch. The garigiste.com site announced the sale of  Rockmere Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley from 2018 for $59.71 a bottle, with the winery price being $95.

So why now, you ask? Well, it has to do with supply and demand. Over the last several months, business stories have focused on the global surplus of wine, and here at home, both Napa and Washington State wine folks are trying to deal with the present surplus of wine and the need to start removing vineyards in big numbers for future stability. Talk about pulling up vines let’s you know this is not a blip.

Meanwhile, retailers are staring at big inventories in their stores and warehouses. I’ve noticed much more exciting offerings from vivino.com so far in 2024. This online site works directly with retailer partners across the country. Sales are slow in brick & mortar places across the country.

Who’s to blame? Well, the easy way out is to point fingers (the middle one?) at the Gen Zers.

Apparently, recent surveys indicate a lack of interest in wine. That’s a demographic representing 18% of the population and it is more interested in energy boosting drinks. Is “Liquid Death” an energy drink? Just asking. 

The brains behind Drizly analyzed the alcohol beverage market and came up with this conclusion: “When it comes to trying new bev alc brands, Drizly’s 2023 Consumer Trend Report found that pricing was the top factor that influences Gen Z “

The  high price of wine is a big deal these days. Recent surveys show that the average bottle price of a Napa Valley Cabernet is $108. An article in The Wall Street Journal  surveyed restaurants and came up with the belief that $25 is the new restaurant normal for a glass of wine. And, yes, the prices for many consumer items are now high. But wine is non-essential, a choice, not on the same level of importance as eggs and fuel. 

Driving the prices of wine up and Gen Zers away is that wine is perceived as a luxury enjoyed by those who equate price with quality. Snobs! Yes, those who buy what others can’t afford and those who associate inexpensive wine as “cheap stuff.” And the big corporations have not helped by their push to create so-called “luxury brands.” 

But right now it is the online wine retailers, the flash sale types, that are driving the discount wine deals.  A report from the Silicon Valley Bank made this observation:

“Wholesalers are full up, as far as they can go,”  which is making them “more picky” in what they buy from wine producers. Wholesalers “are more afraid of being stuck with inventory that they may have to discount.” 

It concluded with a prediction that “flash sales and increased discounts” are likely in the offing in the near future.”

5 Real Deal Dealers

That future is now. Flash sales, meaning limited time offerings are leading the way. For those  interested in checking out the best wine deals offered online, here are my top 5 best sites for non-snobbery, savvy shopping wine drinkers:

www.reversewinesnob.com  This site was finding super wines at great prices before the glut, and so far in 2024 has earned my top spot for its selection of wines from California and the Northwest. It works directly with small, family owned wineries. Begin here.

www.winespies.com  Off to a great month of April with exceptional finds such as the 2020 Caymus California Cabernet and the Wayfarer Chardonnay. Also, super price for a Flying Goat Pinot Noir. Special deals on Lake County Cabernets are frequent.

www.lastbottleswines.com

 Still the best flash sale site, and is keeping up by finding wines never offered before the glut. A great offer for Handley Cellars 2019 Pinot Noir at $19. It also has marathon wine sales, and recently offered dozens of wines as “under $26 deals and steals.”    

www.vivino.com 

These are the people who have a huge database and encourage subscribers to offer reviews, But its main strength is its partnerships with retailers around the country. Here I found the 2020 Beringer Knights Valley Cabernet at 30% off. The new 2022 Caymus “California” Cabernet was first offered by vivino.

http://www.wtso.com

WTSO was one of the first, if not the first site for flash sales. It offers many wines, but I found it is a great resource for imports, especially Spanish and Italian wines. Here are three examples of excellent deals:

2021 Resalte Ribera del Duero Vendimia Seleccionada for $19.99 (50%)

2018 Famiglia Castellani Chianti Classico Riserva  DOCG $14.99

2019 Luca Bosio Barolo  $24.99

Navigating the Deeply Discounted Wine World

A banner announcing “All wines, 20% off, semi-annual Wine Sale” caught my eye as I drove quickly past the shopping mall. The next day, slowing down, I noticed the store was one of those discount food places.

Probably nothing but wines in dented cans, right?  So I kept driving. A few days later, no longer able to curb my curiosity, I stopped. And shopped. Like really shopped.

The sale was at a Grocery Outlet Bargain Market. The one I visited in Bermuda Dunes was a maze of wine with well over 100, maybe close to 200 wines on display. All in bottles ( no cans) and representing every wine country and many, many regions. Not surprisingly for a discount wine program, Argentina and Chile were well-represented, but Spain and Italy were not far behind. There were several Bordeaux along with the rest of France. California and Washington State had their own sections. One wall was lined with Chardonnay!

My first impression was “What the?”  Prices started at $3.99 a bottle, with $6.99 looking like the average. Many of the labels were familiar brands such as Ravenswood, Pedroncelli, St. Clement, Canoe Ridge, McBride Sisters, and Mercer Estates, to cite a few examples. A Rose from one of the most reliable French producers, Chapoutier, was priced at $3.99. There also was a $5.99 white from Quinta de Crasto, a high-end winery well-known to me which is in Portugal’s Douro Valley. 

Then I hit the motherlode with Pinot Noir from one of my long-time favorites, Sarah’s Vineyard in Santa Clara County. Normally selling for $35, there they were at $6.99.  That first visit saw me walk out with several bottles in addition to the Pinots, and I’ve visited other Grocery Outlets since then. 

I always try unfamiliar wines and while a few purchased were dogs woofing at me, the price range makes these explorations relatively painless.

But why are some wines so heavily discounted?  My best guess is poor marketing on the part of the producer, the sales team, the importer and/or wholesaler. A small winery may need the cellar space for the newest vintage, or it just may need cash flow by selling in quantity. Bigger producers may be discontinuing the product or the label. Whatever, the appeal of the Grocery Outlet is that it doesn’t advertise the way the typical Safeway/Abertson chains do. For a producer, importer,  and wholesaler, selling quickly and quietly has its appeal. 

Since most normal people have not been writing about wines and probably haven’t spent time in every major wine country and tasted literally thousands, for what it may be worth to you, I’m going to share my thoughts and shopping tips here. After that, if you are still with me, the conversation will shift to some background about Grocery Outlet which has almost as many stores as Trader Joe’s but it is less well known.

 Shopping Tips from a Wine Professional

1. Read the back label. The boring flipside with the mandatory details, not the artsy, colorful one with the brand.  For each wine that interests you, if you don’t recognize the brand, look at the back label for the name of the producer. Or the company that bottled it. Both are in the fine print.  Begin by learning the producer’s name is step #1.

2. The back label will also tell you the involvement of the producer/bottling company. For instance,”Produced & Bottled By” is a good sign indicating that the winery made most of the wine in the bottle, rather than buying it from another company. “Cellared By” is less reliable and

“Vinted & Bottled by” is pretty bogus. “Vinted” to me says the wine was bought ready-made and simply bottled.

3. Now to the wine’s origin. Check the place name, the appellation (where the grapes were grown) on the front label, such as Napa Valley or Columbia Valley with the home of the producer/bottler on the back.  If you are looking at a Cabernet from Columbia Valley but see on the back that it was bottled in Napa, Lodi, or Acampo, it is a brand owned by a major company  and the wine was trucked to a common bottling facility. The grapes may be grown in Napa or Sonoma, but If it says “Bottled in Modesto, CA,” the wine is, like Barefoot, one of dozens of brands owned by Gallo.

Yes, wines are transported in tanker trucks and in boats on their way to be bottled. You may  be shocked to know that many Sauvignon Blancs made in New Zealand are shipped literally to a bottling plant in California. Check that back label if in disbelief. 

4. How old is too old?  Making sense out of the vintage date and vintage information. The year, say, 2020, simply tells you when the grapes were harvested, not when the wine was bottled. Most wines are at their best when young, especially whites and Roses. But a 3 or 4 year old white is not necessarily over the hill. A Rose, despite its fragile drink soon image can often be enjoyable 2 or 3 years after the vintage. 

Red wines are more complicated and most are fairly safe up to 5 years after the vintage. My recent experiences involved two reds from 2013. The first, a Paso Robles, was clearly in decline, dull, lost its fruitiness  and a little fizzy. The other, a Syrah from the Sierra Nevada Foothills, was at its peak. It was also an excellent Syrah. And both, to keep us on topic, were priced at $6.99.

But my shopping guideline is to avoid whites and roses that are 5 years or older and stay away from most reds more than 10 years old. Whether offered online or in a wine store, any wine around 10 years of age makes me question where it has been during those years. Was it properly stored? Moved around? Somebody’s reject? Yes, best to avoid older wines.

5. Corks and screw caps become an issue when shopping for discounted wines.. Let’s face it, most wines are displayed standing up and a few end up in the sunniest part of the store. Corks may be traditional but they tend to dry out over time and don’t protect the wine. So you’re better off passing over old wines with corks.

6. If you use the vivino site and take photos of bottles, it is better to use google to learn more about the wine. Vivino doesn’t sell most of these wines so will offer minimal info. Go to google to see if the brand exists, and then look for it at wine.com or cellartracker for its history. If it has one which is a good thing.

7.If you taste new wines with others, don’t give the price paid ahead of time. Both newcomers and longtime wine drinkers have been brainwashed to think price equates to quality. The same people who go to Amazon for the cheapest available product, will be predisposed to not like a cheap bargain wine. 

Kick off 2024 by Getting Naked (Wines, that is)

Kick Off 2024 by Getting Naked (Wines, that is)

Yesterday NakedWines announced that during the entire month of January it has slashed the price of all its single bottles and cases by 50%. And you don’t have to sign up because no subscription is required,

The half-price deal applies sitewide though a six-bottle minimum purchase applies.

NakedWines offered about 500 wines from around the world with the majority from Caiifornia and the Northwest. One of the biggest online dealers, it experienced a few big bumps in the road recently with management changes and lower than expected sales growth.

Though I’m not a big fan of NakedWines with its annoying talk about subscribers as “angels,” I have bought wines and reviewed the website. It claims to have 300,000 subscribers.

Another issue I had was the arbitrary basic prices given since it can come up with any price it wants to. But at 50% off, things have changed.

I’m also quite familiar with some of the winemakers who put their names on the labels. You can read all about the way so-called “angels” support the winemakers, but there’s much better use of time here to talk about the wines on sale.

So I put together a case of wine that I as a veteran wine critic would recommend and would personally enjoy as a consumer. For the 12 wines selected which were said to have a market value of $409.88 my purchase price was $92.38. The $100 voucher offered me helped.And these vouchers are widely available.

Now to the chosen 12:

Scott Steingraber Building Bridges Rogue Valley Viognier 2021 $12.49

Scott Steingraber Building Bridges Rogue Valley Tempranillo 2022 $19.49

Matt Parish “The 24” Contra Costa Zinfandel 2021 $15.99

Dave Harvey Walla Walla Valley Cabernet Franc 2021 $13.99

Michaud Columbia Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2021 $10.49

Mick Schroeter Russian River Chardonnay 2022 $14.99

F. Stephen Millier Black Label Calaveras Zinfandel 2021 $11.99

DRG Daryl Groom Reserve Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir 2021 $24.99

Scott Kelley Oregon Tempranillo 2021 $17.49

Sharon Weeks Cattoo Paso Robles Cabernet Sauvignon 2020 $14.99

Scott Kelley Willamette Valley Pinot Noir 2022 $16.99

DRG Daryl Groom Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2021 $18.49

Again, at 50% off,  my price for these 12 wines is $92.38.

So, as you can see I prefer its red wines much more than whites and roses. 

And I avoid the imports because whether from South America, Europe, or other countries, they are bottled in the USA. 

A Cabernet Sauvignon from Chile or Malbec from Argentina imported and bottled in Lodi or in Napa’s American Canyon? That means they arrived by trucks and boats in large containers and have been pumped and fiddled with. Some I tasted were ok at best, but others were not.

As for other advice, it is better to act quickly because over its history when it runs out of some wines nakedwines then suggests replacements. That can go bad.

End of February Wine Sale

Get ready to cherry pick a big wine sale featuring 150 wines at 40-50% price reductions

And $5 case shipping. 

Highlights: 150 wines up for sale

The website: vintagewineestates.com 

On Tuesday the 28th, Vintage Wine Estates will offer 150 wines from its portfolio of wineries. 

The collection ranges from top notch wineries like Owen Roe, Qupe, Kunde, Laetitia, Clos Pegase and several others that are fully functional real wineries.

And, yes, the portfolio includes your basic supermarket brands like cherry pie and layer cake.

VWE as the company likes to be called, has so far encouraged many of its wineries to function as they always have.

It added a new brand “Bar Dog” that may appeal to some of you.

And I do like to fun/pun it created with the brand, “If You See Kay.” 

Here are the wineries to look for in this sale:

Owen Roe Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and other reds from Red Willow Vineyard

Tamarack  Firehouse Red for $12

Qupe Grenache $18

Laetitia Pinot Noir

Kunde Zinfandel

B.R. Cohn Chardonnay, Cabernet

Delectus Napa Valley

Can’t  find anything you like? Well then, just If You See Kay it!

Special Spring Sales Alert

A truly exciting winery is having a sale now until this Sunday.

You can buy wines at prices that are normally “members only” so you can first select some exciting wines to sample. And then also through these wines, consider joining the club.

And THE winery is: Tooth & Nail Winery

www.toothandnailwine.com

Based in Paso Robles, this oddly named winery offers several types of wines under 4 different brand names:

Tooth & Nail: Creative, unconventional wines with unusual names and stunning labels. For example, “The Fragrant Snare” brings together Chardonnay, Albarino, and Viognier.

Amor Fati: Syrah, Grenache, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, all from cool climates.

For me, these 4 were love at first taste. All scored 92 points or higher. See reviews at 

http://www.winereviewonline.com

 Stasis: Pinot Noir from Santa Maria and a Viognier. Both excellent.

Destinata: Drink now, no fanfare Chenin Blanc, Riesling, and Syrah. All good. All fun. Especially the drink-now style Syrah. The dry Riesling and Chenin will surprise you.

Bundles: special packages at 20% off prices. 

There’s a Pure Bliss” bundle and a” Once in A Lifetime” bundle you should check out.

BTW: the labels are so artsy, so creative, and so collectible!

You can see my wine reviews at winereviewonline.com and better understand my enthusiasm.

Who’s Behind these Wines?

Rob Murray is the owner. After making Rabble Wine a raving success, he sold it to start Tooth & Nail. With Rabble, he was the first to use augmented reality technology in wine labeling, thereby injecting a sense of movement and play onto a bottle of wine. When it comes to label artwork and design, he is far ahead of everyone.

Winemaker Jeremy Leffert’s motto is: “Pour now. Live for today.” He has a degree in Environmental Science and later studied at Cal Poly. At Tooth & Nail, Jeremy leans toward the philosophical and is ever alert to avoid “the dominance of the winemaker’s hand.” With that in mind, he views himself as a shepherd as much as a maker.

Wait! A winemaker without a BIG ego? Not puffed up about high scores, not an icon or living legend? Just a highly skilled professional.

As a wine club, Tooth & Nail not only meets but nails it by exceeding my 4 very demanding standards:

1.High quality wines

2. Wide variety of wines, unusual wines, and wines at all price points

3. Membership has real value, VIP, being part of cutting edge thinking, something trending

4. Fun

Well, the “fun” requirement eliminates about 90% of all winery wine clubs, the snobby places with way over the top prices.

Also those wineries where members feel pressure to buy or else get dropped. And those with the weekend traffic and the crowds? 

So  hello Paso Robles, the home to high quality wineries owned by crazy, gifted, fun loving, creative, enthusiastic and, well, nice people.

And one more major thing, this winery is within reach of TinCity, home to dozens of other wineries, a few artisan breweries, and a food vendor or two. Yes, part of a wine destination!!