Category: cult wines

WALLA WALLA: Recent Notes & Updates

Walla Walla is unusual in many, many ways. First it is a rare AVA falling within two states, Washington and Oregon. About 60% is within Washington. Defined by the Blue Mountains to the southeast, the Palouse to the north, and the Columbia River to the west, Walla Walla is said to be the size of Napa but contains only 3,000 vineyard acres. 

But, for surprise #2,  there now are about 120 wineries calling Walla Walla home. Nothing much happened vineyard-wise after Repeal as the region expanded its orchards and wheat growing. Then In 1974, Gary Figgins planted a small vineyard and by 1978 his Leonetti Cellars was the first new winery. Figgins who was interested in Italian reds like Sangiovese made a 1978 Cabernet that by the early 1980s won so many awards and earned so many high ratings that it was being talked about as a cult wine. Walla Walla had awakened with a bang.

As its reputation spread, Figgins responded to his new found success and high demand by announcing release dates for subsequent vintages. The wines sold out quickly over a weekend in May.

Leonetti’s success, it is fair to say, kick-started Walla Walla as a special wine region which until then was better known for its onions, apples, and wheat. Selling wine to visitors from out of town caught the attention of Marty Clubb, who founded the nearby family winery, L’Ecole No 41 in 1984. Clubb was soon offering his attention-getting Merlot, Semillon and Cabernet on the same day Leonetti scheduled its open house. Not surprising, there were traffic jams caused by wine lovers coming from Portland and Seattle.  Adding to the evolving wine scene, Rick Small who planted a vineyard in the late 70s converted a machine shop into a winery in 1981. His Woodward Canyon Winery was yet another reason to hit the road to Walla Walla.

To be frank, Walla Walla is in the proverbial middle of nowhere. Portland is 250 miles west, Seattle around 275 miles away, and otherwise, nothing but farmlands and magnificent rock formations. The area is beautiful and the town of Walla Walla with its brick buildings is absolutely charming, home to Whitman College and more bike trails than you thought existed.

My first visit to Walla Walla was in 1996 and during that time I was welcomed by the owners of Leonetti, L’Ecole, and Woodward Canyon. Two wineries had tasting rooms downtown, Seven Hills and Canoe Ridge. My hosts were the owners of a new vineyard named Pepper Bridge who were at the time also major apple growers shipping their product worldwide. All three wineries remain family owned and Pepper Bridge, owned by Ginnie and Norm McKibben, is now both a winery and a major grower selling to dozens of  wineries.

But to return to my list of what makes Walla Walla unusual, #3 is the fact that in the little town there are presently 32 winery tasting rooms open to the public and to wine club members. That’s almost a third which is amazing. As I was packing up to leave on the most recent trip, a local stopped to ask what I thought of Walla Walla. After mentioning I first visited years ago, she noted,  “Yes, the wineries saved the town and brought it back to life.”

But what really sets Walla Walla apart from most AVA is that 95% of the grapes grown are red. Cabernet, Merlot and Syrah combine for 70% of the total. On the Oregon side, The Rocks District sub-appellation, approved in 2015 and known for its distinctive gravel, cobblestone soil,  Syrah edges out Cabernet and Merlot is a distant third.

While it is fairly clear that Syrah is the rockstar of The Rocks, Cabernet faces some stiff competition from Merlot and Bordeaux blends as the signature wine of Walla Walla Valley. And Syrah is gaining some steam with new wineries like Valdemar Estate raising the bar. 

From the revisit, I left with the belief that Walla Walla is just gaining momentum and is on track to become a leading voice for many red wines. Currently, there are excellent Cabs and Merlots but it is easy to get excited about the Bordeaux blends, especially those with a good dose of Cabernet Franc. 

5 Best Representatives: All have wine clubs

Northstar Winery “Red Blend,” Walla Walla Valley 2016 $60

Pepper Bridge Winery Merlot, Walla Walla Valley 2018 $55

Amavi Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon, Walla Walla Valley 2018 $36.00

Valdemar Estate Syrah, Walla Walla Valley  2019 $65

Saviah Cellars 2018 Cabernet Franc Walla Walla Valley, 2018 $35

Merlot

L’Ecole No 41 remains a leader with both its regular and Estate Merlot. Northstar has 14 acres planted to Merlot but uses the Columbia Valley AVA.  Northstar’s 2013 Merlot, with 23% Cabernet, is a gorgeous, concentrated berry-infused, lightly oaked version for $41. Northstar’s limited production 2017 Premier Merlot, is as big and beautiful as Merlot gets. Loaded with flavors, It only needs cellaring. The retail price is $100.

Pepper Bridge Winery Merlot, Walla Walla Valley 2018 $55

With 13% Cab Franc, this Merlot made from Seven Hills and the estate vineyard, this is a perfect example of what Walla Walla offers. It displays ripe cherry, raspberry and light herbal aromas with a touch of oak spice. On the palace it is medium-full bodied with ripe fruit, an earthy streak and good acidity to accompany the tannins. Concentrated, textured, and balanced, it begs to be cellared 3-5 years. While owning both Pepper Bridge and Seven Hills Vineyard, the winery produces only 8,000 cases a year. Dozens of wineries buy grapes from Pepper Bridge, including Leonetti which bottles a vineyard designated Cabernet. All Pepper Bridge wines were excellent. One reason why the winery is not better known is that it sells almost all direct to wine club members. But if there were one club I would join , this would be it.

Cabernet Sauvignon

A recent taste of a 2002 Leonetti Cabernet confirmed that this winery remains in the forefront with its signature balance and longevity. Woodward Canyon with its Estate Reserve Cab also remains in top form. The 2016 Northstar Walla Walla Cab ($60) offered beautiful aromas with light tannin and was presented in an attractive elegant style. Offered through its wine club,the 2016 Pepper Bridge Cabernet ($56), blended with the four other Bordeaux grapes, is a classic, ripe, structured version with bright fruit and rich tannin that will drink beautifully for many years.

Amavi Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon, Walla Walla Valley 2018 $36.00

A vintage that was warm in July and threatened by smoke, 2018 turned out to be fine thanks to the ultra-long growing season that is a hallmark of the region. The last Cab was picked in mid-October. Made from 76% Cabernet and equal portions of the usual suspects, it was aged primarily in neutral French oak. With cherry, sweet spices and black currant fruit, it is medium bodied, nicely balanced with hints of anise and dusty tannins. As an estate wine that is sustainably grown, Amavi’s Cabernet has been consistent over recent vintages and is attractively priced. A little over 5,000 cases were made in 2018.

Bordeaux Blends

Here as elsewhere, what to label traditional Bordeaux blends remains a problem. Meritage never caught on as a useful moniker. One of the early proponents of Bordeaux blends in Walla Walla, Reininger which began in 1997 finally decided by the 2017 vintage to label the wine “BDX Red Wine.” A relative newcomer to the scene, Va Piano labeled its attractive blend, “Uniti.”  “Trine” is a name newly adopted for Pepper Bridge’s Bordeaux blend.  “Night Owl” is used by Amaurice Cellars for its red blend.  Oh well, one that stood out was Northstar’s “Red Blend.”

Northstar Winery “Red Blend,” Walla Walla Valley 2016 $60

Northstar’s first vintage was in 1994 and the state-of-the-art winery was built in 2002.

In its earliest years, Northstar was guided by  California’s well-known winemaker, Jed Steele. It is part of the Ste. Michelle portfolio which was recently sold. The 2028 Red Blend is made from 51% Merlot, 47% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 2% Cabernet Franc. The barrel regime consisted of 100% French oak with 38% new barrels for 18 months. It is definitely not shy with wide open aromas of herbs and ripe dark cherries, and is rich and silky smooth on the palate. Beautifully textured, it finishes long with sweet, toasty oak notes. It does throw some sediment, so decanting is recommended.

Another standout Bordeaux blend:

Va Piano Vineyards, Walla Walla Valley “Uniti”, Estate Grown 2018 ($85): 

Born and raised in Walla Walla, winemaker/owner Justin Wylie started Va Piano in 2003.  A year in Florence encouraged the “va piano” name from an Italian proverb that means go slow and take it one step at a time.  For a wide range of red wines led by Cabernet and Syrah, he relies on grapes from his 20-acres in mid-Walla Walla and the high elevation Octave Vineyard on the Oregon side.  A top-of-the line blend, the 2018 Uniti is 30% Cabernet, 30% Cab Franc, 28% Merlot and 12% Malbec.  The winery has a tasting room in Bend.

Syrah

Although I didn’t taste many Syrah on this trip, one caught my attention: 2019 Valdemar Estates from Walla Walla. This new winery is simply amazing! Founded by the 6th generation Bujuda family who also own Bodegas Valdemar in Rioja.  It is both a restaurant, featuring tapas, and a state of the art winery. To date, the investment is said to be well over $10 million. It is run by Jesus Bujuda who attended the University of Washington and fell in love with Walla Walla on a visit. The mantra heard in the tasting room is that “we are here to help put Walla Walla on the international wine map.” An attractive lineup of Rioja wines are also offered in the tasting room and are for sale. The 2012 Conde Valdemar Reserva is delightful for $30 and there’s a selection of older library vintages going back to 1985. As good as the Grenache was, the Walla Walla Syrah was a standout.

Valdemar Estate Syrah, Walla Walla Valley  2019 $65

A little under 200 cases were made, and the fruit was sourced from Stoney Vine Vineyard located south of Walla Walla with its rocky terroir. The Syrah is the old style head-training method for vine management. Blended with 5% Grenache, the wine was aged 16 months in 25% new and 75% 2-year-old, French oak. It’s dark and vibrant, loaded with dark blackberry fruit, anise, and a slight earthy streak. The flavors are ripe and concentrated but are under control with light tannin leading to a balanced finish.

Cabernet Franc:

As another writer finding more to like these days with Cabernet Franc, I was happy to see several wineries offering a varietal version. Saviah’s is a splendid example.

Saviah Cellars, Walla Walla Valley Cabernet Franc 2016 ($35): 

Founded in 2000, Saviah Cellars offers an extremely wide range of limited production wines including the only Barbera from Walla Walla, an attractive Nebbiolo, and this extremely well-made Cabernet Franc.  It was sourced from three vineyards: Watermill Vineyard which is located in The Rocks District, Dugger Creek Vineyard and the Summit View Vineyard.  It is a textbook example of the varietal with aromas of ripe berry, spice, tobacco and anise.  Medium bodied, it has similar flavors with highlights of dried herbs and raspberry fruit.  It has a slightly fleshy palate feel and no rough edges as it finishes long and smooth.

Black Friday Wine Sales: Jumping the Gun

Fittingly, an exciting early Black Friday wine sale comes from one of my favorite recent discoveries: Tooth & Nail from Paso Robles. 

  • service@toothandnailwine.com

The Black Friday deal: 30% off all wines until November 28th

BTW: for a small limited production winery, a 30% discount is a BFD.

Here are my favorites that were reviewed at winereviewonline.com

2020 Destinata by Tooth & Nail, Santa Barbara County Syrah 

When opening a Syrah in a clear bottle, you instinctively brace for something unusual.  Destinata is the latest addition to the Tooth & Nail family, and it represents wines made for present enjoyment without fanfare.  “Inspired by the experience of Beaujolais Nouveau” this cool climate Syrah was made with native yeasts and bottled unfined and unfiltered.  The lush, black fruited aroma is backed by hints of black pepper and the flavors display solid Syrah character throughout.  Smooth and vibrant with good acid balance, it is harmonious from start to finish.  The winemaker’s motto is: “Pour now.  Live for today.”  So, yes, it can be served chilled.    And with the discount, the price is close to $20 a bottle!!  

91 Norm Roby 

2018 Amor Fati, Santa Maria Valley Santa Barbara County Grenache Murmur Vineyard 

 “Wow” is the first impression and the amazement continues as the wine unfolds.  Darker than most, this Grenache displays aromas of ripe dark fruits, spice, and hints of lavender, thyme and earthiness.  Medium-bodied and loaded with lush, dark fruit, currants and spice flavors, it is plush and has soft tannins that bring it to a strong finish.  Powerful, but not over-done with oak in the background, it should age well for 4 to 5 years, but it is lovely now.  This cool-climate Grenache is easily one of the top five I’ve ever tasted.      

97 Norm Roby 

2018 Amor Fati, Santa Maria Valley (Santa Barbara County, California) Syrah Murmur Vineyard 

From the same vineyard used for the winery’s Grenache, this is exciting cool-climate Syrah.  Amor Fati, which means “love of one’s fate,” is made by the Tooth & Nail Wine Co. based in Paso Robles.  For their Syrah, they source fruit from the Murmur Vineyard, which is located about 12 miles from the Pacific.  Minimally handled, the wine was aged for 18 months in French oak, 30% of it new.  Dark, opaque in color, it is a concentrated, brooding wine that needs time to unfold.  With aeration, it displays deep blackberry and black pepper fragrances with some olive and earthiness in the background.  Medium full, but no monster, it is well-balanced, with secondary flavors of tobacco and plum.  Needs time to unwind, but has all the right stuff.     

94 Norm Roby 

Love Paso Robles Cabernet? Of course you do.

Well, this following wine could be the best deal of all Paso Cabs for less than $20:

2020 Tooth & Nail Cabernet Sauvignon, Paso Robles

Don’t delay. Go to the website for the discount code.

You can, as always, thank me later

Okanagan Valley Wines: Lakes, Glaciers & Deserts

 

Visiting Canada’s Okanagan Valley in British Columbia has been on my must-do list for years. Not for skiing, or hiking, biking, boating, backpacking…all of which make the region a tourist attraction. The reason was to check out the wines.

Canadian wine? Yep, and not Ice Wine. Although Canada may have been once known for Ice Wines, most are made today in Ontario. In British Columbia the wine business is growing rapidly and the Okanagan Valley is the hub, the epicenter of exciting new wines.

kelowna

As a longtime wine writer, I’ve visited just about every wine region in Europe and South America and also both islands in New Zealand and every corner of the West Coast. Exploring new places, visiting overlooked regions, and discovering new and highly enjoyable wines are what come naturally to me as a wine writer.

So my remarks about Okanagan are not hyped up euphoria from a newbie influencer. Or from someone who was wined and dined and shown only what some PR person wanted to be seen.

It took a lot of planning to finally visit Okanagan and of course there were restrictions and social distancing protocols everywhere, but after an extended stay it became clear that Okanagan is an amazing place with dramatic lakes, mountains, and vineyard vistas and wines that can compete on the world stage. 

Check out Okanagan wines at www.winereviewonline.com for current ratings and for an earlier post.

5 Reasons why Okanagan Should be on Everyone’s Wish List

  1. Okanagan is a major wine region with 10,000 acres of vineyards & 275 wineries
  2. Okanagan grows all the classic European wine varieties from Cabernet to Viognier
  3. The quality is high and the best wines are truly terroir-driven, due to diverse soil, climate, elevation 
  4. It is an exciting young, fast growing wine region that jump started in 1990
  5. Amazingly diverse with southern vineyards located in Canada’s only desert and the most northerly vineyards exposed to Arctic freezes.

Most wineries are small and family-owned, focusing on wines from their own vineyard which explains the widespread use of “Estate” in so many winery names.  Wine clubs are “the” thing for most, and quite a few wineries are also restaurants or bistros.  Sit-down tastings are usually by appointment, but it was amazing to see the tasting fees were around $10 for 4 or 5 wines. And that’s $10 Canadian which makes wine tasting fun.

dirty laundry

Getting there from Vancouver required a 4+ hour drive over the steep mountain range to arrive at Kelowna, a bustling lakeside city that happens to be in the middle of the Okanagan Valley.  The lake is the Okanagan Lake, a deep one gouged out by glaciers that is 85 miles long and 3 miles wide.  Some 40 wineries are located just outside of Kelowna and neighboring West Kelowna.  As you drive around the steep hillsides noticing lava rocks here and there you sense the presence of Mt. Boucherie, a once active volcano.

While most wine regions claim to be unique in some way, the Okanagan Valley with its history of glaciers and volcanoes is unquestionably unusual, arguably unique.  Then factor in the location, the 49th parallel east of the mountains in British Columbia, and it is a kind of high desert made semi-arid as the mountains keep annual rainfall totals low.  

And this is BIG: When compared to Napa Valley, the Okanagan enjoys at least 2 extra hours of daylight from July through the harvest. That’s according to winemakers who add that the season is short as budbreak occurs much later. In other words, different from any other wine region.

During my visit in early September when the harvest was in full swing in California’s North Coast, Okanagan winemakers were wrapping up their final pre-harvest cleaning of tanks and barrels, anticipating harvest to be in full swing by the end of September.

Most wines are labeled “Okanagan Valley” as their origin, but within that area are over a dozen sub-regions. But within each sub-region, the growing conditions vary widely due to elevation, aspect, proximity to a lake, and soil types. 

 For instance, the east side of Lake Okanagan is much warmer than the west side of the Valley because it receives hot afternoon sun well into the evening. There can be ripening differences of as much as two weeks for the same variety at the same latitude depending on which side of the valley it is planted.

PXL_20210910_193141280

Kelowna and Penticton are the two major cities and sub-regions.  The Kelowna area stretching from Peachland to the north end of the Okanagan Valley has the coolest climate of the Okanagan. This makes it an area well suited to earlier ripening varieties. Tantalus won me over with its Chardonnays and neighbor Spearhead Vineyards is a bona fide Pinot Noir specialist. Pinot Noir dominates with 27% of the acreage while Chardonnay, Pinot Gris and Riesling together cover another 40%.  

vineyards okanagan

Summerland, a lakeside village south of Peachland, is home base for two dozen wineries, including one of my favorites, Dirty Laundry. Evolve Cellars is another quality-minded winery.

Naramata Bench

Located at the southern end of the Lake, Penticton is a lively village and some 85 wineries are within a 20 minute drive. Many wineries can be found on the Naramata Bench as you travel along the eastern side of the lake from Penticton north to the tiny village of Naramata. Several, such as Da Silva, Hillside Winery and Popular Grove, are classy bistros with excellent food to go with the fine wine. The west-facing vineyards of Naramata Bench and Skaha Bench can ripen later ripening varieties in the warmer sites.  Merlot, Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Gewürztraminer are the most planted varieties there. 

With so many outstanding wineries along the route, you can easily spend 4-5 days exploring the Naramata Bench region, Skaha and Okanagan Falls. Best advice is to start with these seven:

Hillside Winery

Da Silva Vineyards

Poplar Grove

Bench 1775 Winery

Upper Bench Winery

Painted Rock

See Ya Later Ranch

see ya later

Despite the incredible diversity of sites, a few generalizations hold up.  For instance, the east side of Lake Okanagan is much warmer than the west side of the Valley because it receives hot afternoon sun well into the evening. There can be ripening differences of as much as two weeks for the same variety at the same latitude depending on which side of the valley it is planted.

Similar patterns and wided diurnal temperature swings exist in other regions. In Lake Country way to the north, the vintages risk an occasional arctic freeze, while in the south close to the USA border, vineyards in Osoyoos and Oliver thrive in a hot, arid summer in Canada’s only desert. It may be a desert, but before vineyards were established,  Oliver was famous for its cherries and peach orchids. Impressive red wines, such as Syrah, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Bordeaux blends,  are being made by Church & State Vineyards, Burrowing Owl and Moon Cursor. The name of one nearby winery, Bordertown Winery, reminds you that the US border is only a few miles away.

One fascinating new-ish region is the hard to say Similkameen Valley. A little northwest of Osoyoos, this region now has 20 wineries located along the river. I didn’t get there, but two wineries making terrific wines are Orofino and Corcelettes Estate Winery. The 2019 Syrah from Corcelettes was a stunning, rich, and flavorful version.

Several winery names are intriguing, self-deprecating and a little irreverent. My first wine tasted was a Rose from Dirty Laundry Vineyard before moving on to See Ya Later Ranch Pinot Noir and then to Blasted Church with its Bordeaux blends:  “Holy Moly,” “Nothing Sacred,”and “Cross to Bear.”  My favorite was Blasted Church’s 2019 “Big Bang Theory,” a Merlot based mélange.  Another winery bottles a red named “Hot Flash.” Oh, and of course there’s a clothesline with laundry drying in front of Dirty Laundry.  

 

Next: My Top 20  Okanagan Wines

The 2021 Marathon Wine Sale is On

August 26 and 27th

9:00 am Napa Time

At www.lastbottlewines.com

Plus, FREE GROUND SHIPPING on ALL ORDERS (contiguous states)! TRUE, UTTER MADNESS. Yup, you read it right — FREE SHIPPING ON EVERY AND ALL ORDERS, regardless of # of bottles.

That’s it – madness it is, and all first come, first served!!

This year is different & This is Awesome!!

This 2021 marathon is all about TEACHERS, supplies, and support. We’re donating $1 per order (last one was 83,000) to the Napa Valley Education Foundation to directly benefit teachers’ needs for nearly every school in Napa County, many of which are strained to the maximum post-Covid.

A Little Background

I have bought from this site, and never had a problem.

I also still enjoy the crazy, super-paced descriptions.

Based upon the flash sale model, lastbottlewines is headquartered in Napa Valley and has been gaining momentum and clients since its humble beginning in 2011. Its Three partners (Cory Wagner, Stefan Blicker and Brent Pierce) have good connections in the wine world.

If you order too late, you get an empty wine case image with the not so subtle snooze you lose message. If you happen to buy the last bottle, they give you a $25 credit. 

The comments are obviously aimed at millennials with an overuse of CAPS, preponderance of buzz words from awesome, bang, boom, wow, and references to a killer Vintage or “Rockstar winemaker.  Then you usually encounter more exclamation marks and 3 dots than your English teacher ever thought possible in one paragraph.

So many ROCKSTARS, so little time. The 2018 Ridge Lytton Springs quickly sold out.

The 2016 Luna Cabernet Sauvignon, Rutherford was an out and out steal.

Other recent examples of wines offered that’ll rock your world are excellent Brunello and Barolo. Recently a 2016 Douro was tempting as was a Malbec from Cahors. Yes, they have an importer’s license and can offer super discounts on imports. Sorry I missed out on a super St. Emilion, the 2016 Château Haut-Sarpe, the real deal from St. Emilion.

 I couldn’t resist the 2019 Sauvignon Blanc from  Matahiwi Estate, NZ, for $10. The 2018 Rivetto Langhe Nebbiolo for $18 was so tempting. And so on and on…

Best New Wine Clubs of 2021

With wineries now beginning to open up, this is a good time to explore new and exciting wine clubs. The best are those that first of all offer truly exciting, high quality wines not normally available in the marketplace.

Special events, first dibs on small production wines, and other perks to membership are second in importance.

Introducing Ashes & Diamonds, Napa

http://www.ashesdiamonds.com

Recently featured in my post at www.winereviewonline.com Ashes & Diamonds is new, the wines are super, the tasting room is bright, lively and the charming owner, who was there when I dropped in, is often on the scene.

The winery and visitor’s center are not typical Napa. In fact, they are the opposite of the chateau wannabes dotting the landscape. The main building is a stark white rectangle with an odd, zig-zag roof and port-hole windows, which Vogue noted it looks more like a silicon Valley start-up than a winery. It seems to be trying to attract a young crowd by being open longer hours (7:00 pm closing) and by hiring a young chef who helped put Scribe Cellars on the millennial radar.

And there is some instagram-like freshness in the winery’s motto: “Ashes & Diamonds Winery is a love letter to Napa as it was when it first took the world stage in the 1960s.”

There are 3 different membership levels. Here are a few of the perks:

The winery Picnic is complimentary for all members.

The A&D Wines + Cheese experience ($75 for non-members) is $35 for 3 & 6-Bottle members. Complimentary for 12-Bottle members.

The A&D Grand Cuvée Flight ($75 for non-members) is $35 for 3 & 6-Bottle members. Complimentary for 12-Bottle members.

The A&D Wines + Food experience ($125 for non-members) is $60 for 6 & 12-Bottle Members only.

Act fast if you want to join.

After joining, check out my favorite which was rated 95 points:

Ashes & Diamonds Napa Valley, Mt Veeder, (Saffron Vineyard Mountain Cuvee #2)  2017 ($75)

From a high elevation, dry-farmed site planted in 2000,  this wine consists of 55% Merlot, 20% Cabernet, and 25% Cab Franc.  After a cold-soaking encouraged a native fermentation, the wine was blended and aged for 19th months is French and American oak, 30% new.  Dark, youthful in appearance, the wine shows vibrant herbal and plum aromas with a touch of cocoa. On the palate it seems light and bright with refined delicate berry/fruit flavors, rounded by ultra soft tannins. It has a delightful long finish. The oak remains in the background but should come into play with cellaring. Mt  Veeder is one of Napa’s coolest sites for Bordeaux varieties. Overall, a charming, refined wine reminiscent of a Margaux. 321 case produced.

Dont hesitate. You can thank me later.

3 Reasons Why Old Vine Wines are (well, maybe) Better

My 3 Exhibits: Attention Class

2018 None Such Mourvedre, Enz Vineyard, San Benito County, $38.00 at http://www.nonesuchwines.com

2018 Bedrock Wine Company California Old Vine Zinfandel $27.99 at www. wine.com

2018 Ridge Petite Sirah Lytton Estate, $38 at http://www.invino.com

Are Old Vine wines better than other wines? This question likely ranks as one of the most common raised in wine classes. It is often raised when the subject turns to Zinfandel and indeed, there are arguably more Old Vine Zinfandels now on the market than any other wine type.

Yet, before getting to possible answers, let’s be clear: old vines exist in many other wine regions, especially in Spain, Portugal, Argentina and Chile.

First, “old” is not very well defined in the wine world. So because the average lifespan of a productive vine is 45-50 years, I’m using old for a vine that’s at least 50 years old. That’s 

Pre-1970 in California, but there are vineyards that were planted in the 1880s, 90s.

When a vine ages beyond 50 years, it becomes less and less productive, meaning fewer clusters per vine and often smaller berries. So one attribute of old vines is a concentration brought naturally about by low yields and small berries. Without getting geeky scientific, the ratio of juice to grape skins is different. And the skins yield less tannic wines.

Another thing often pointed out is that old vines have deep roots which makes sense. Deep roots have the vine drawing different nutrients from the soil than young vines. Many winemakers believe that leads to a balanced vine, one that matures the grapes evenly and the maturation process is smooth and normal.

Now one more point to bring up before answering the question and that is old vines are usually tended differently. For starters, most are dry farmed, meaning never irrigated. Then many are own rooted, meaning direct bearers, not grafted onto highly productive, disease re rootstock.  

That they are farmed differently was hammered home when I walked through old Mourvedre vines in Roussillon and through old steep vineyards in Oporto. In both, the vines were not planted in rows, they zigzagged their way along a slope or around a rock because everything was handled by people, not machines. The old vineyards in Oporto and many places are mixed, meaning field blends of several varieties intended to be harvested at the same time and fermented together. Many Old Vine Zinfandels are most likely field blends. 

But are Old Vines better?

  1. Balance

For starters, they are better balanced because the vine was in balance and therefore the wine didn’t need to be adjusted, manipulated, or rocket aged by some nerdy winemaker. The reason why so many pre-1970 California wines were field blends was to prevent a new winemaker from changing the tried and true winemaking regime. I may have heard that from Robin Lail whose family ran Inglenook during its prime years. 

2.Texture

In addition to aromas and flavors, wine has a range of textural possibilities. This is also known as the “mouthfeel,” as in soft, silky, astringent, puckery, harsh and whatever. Helen Turley, aka the “wine goddess” crowned by Robert Parker was not nerdy at all. Once when tasting wines with her, she started  talking about “old vine velvet” and to this day, this attribute stands out to me. Old vines at their best are more concentrated but the tannins are less harsh so the wine might have high alcohol but still come across as velvety smooth.

3. History

There’s something authentic about an Old Vine wine because it captures and showcases a sense of place, not a wine made in the cellars, not a wine that’s a winemaker’s signature. In this era of over blown cult wines and cult winemakers, that’s rare and refreshing. The enjoyment of wine is more about places and peoples, not points.

Your Cheat Sheet

Wine #1

Sommelier Ian Cauble puts it better when talking about the 2018 None Such Winery Mourvedre

Made from Enz Vineyard: 

It is, he explains, made from vines that are “own-rooted, head-trained, dry-farmed, and hidden deep in San Benito County, where it has flourished since the 1800s. The wines which hail from this special place are truly remarkable. To drink Enz is to understand the very fabric of California winemaking, and to be lucky enough to make a wine from Enz is to partake in history.” The winemaker and owner of None Such is Caitlin Quinn. You might want to remember that name.

Wine #2

The 2018 Ridge Lytton Estate Petite Sirah is an old field blend with Zinfandel. The vineyard was established in 1901. Ridge and winemaker Paul Draper need no explanation.

Wine #3

 Bedrock’s 2018 Old Vine Zin is a blend of 85% Zinfandel filled out with Mataro, Grenache, Alicante Bouschet, Carignan, Petite Sirah and scant amounts of the many other varieties that can be found in California’s older, multifarious vineyards. And BTW, just about every Bedrock wine demonstrates the unique appeal of Old Vine and Heritage Vineyard wines. The winery is part of the Joel Peterson clan, the pioneers of old vine wines.

And yes, I reversed #2 and #3 here just to see if you were paying attention.

2021 Clearance Sales: A Great Start

www.napacabs.com

What’s in a name? Well Shakespeare fans, napacabs.com is a major wine retailer that now has a great sale going. And  the best deals are NOT from Napa and are NOT Cabs. Sure, it offers Opus One, Groth and Silver Oak Cabs.

But, wow, there are real wine deals from this major internet company.

Looking for special sites with clearance sales, I kept coming back to that one site, www.napacabs.com which despite its name, sells wines from all major parts of the wine world.  Based in Southern California, it has a solid track record for delivering what’s promised.

It has several wines from Raeburn, an up and coming Russian river star.

And it is especially strong in wines from Paso Robles and Oregon.

And right now, there are these 4 absolutely unbeatable deals:

2019 Raeburn Russian River Valley Chardonnay, $12.97 a bottle or $179 a case with free shipping. You cannot find a better Chard at this price!

2016 Two Sisters Pinot Noir, Lindsay’s Vineyard, Sta. Rita Hills, $14.97,  a 70% discount

2016 Cenyth Sonoma Red Wine Blend ( 50% Cabernet Franc, 32% Merlot and 18% Cabernet Sauvignon) $29.97

2018 Argyle Winery Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley $22.99

Free case shipping, it turns out, applies to 1,329 wines. Happily, it was easy to skip over the many supermarket wines like Cupcake, Josh, Yellow Tail,  Fat Cat and Fat Bastard. These along with the Kendall Jackson brands and 19 Crimes silly wines are pretty ordinary. 

But this is a great place to buy wines by the case to see you through the winter weeks. 

Yes, even a few napa cabs!

5 Wine Websites Showing the Way in 2021

more once impossible to find cult wines now offered by the best online wine clubs

Jaboulet Cornas, Calera Jensen Pinot, Larkmead Cabernet, DeLille D2, Beau Vigne Romeo Cabernet…find these and other once rare and restaurant exclusives wines at the top 5 online websites. 

With discounted prices and home deliveries part of the deal, these are the places to shop in early 2021 for high-end collectible wines.

www.invino.com shocked me with the offer of the 2018 Tyrus Evan Syrah from Seven Hills Vyd, a rare Washington Syrah, for $19 a bottle. For Pinot Noir, it has Adelsheim’s 2015 Nicholas Vineyard. Best value: 2012 Formby & Adams Cab at $18.

www.wineaccess.com just listed my favorite luxury Washington Cab, theDeLille D2. It sold out quickly. But now there’s the 2017 Provenance Napa Cab at $39 and Foxen Pinot Noir from Bien Nacido Vineyard, a rare, and super wine.

www.thewinespies.com  worked their magic to secure cases of Larkmead’s 2016 Firebelle Cabernet. And toppped that with the ’17 Arietta Quartet. Zin lovers snapped up the Beekeeper Cellars Zins, but this is the site for Zin eyes.

www.lastbottlewines.com had the best price on the culty Beau Vigne Romeo Cabernet. It sold out in a flash.

www.wtso.com uncovered a hidden gem, the 2017 Gypsy Dancer Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley Pinot Noir, $19.99

7 BEST WEBSITES FOR HOLIDAY WINE SHOPPING

Super sales begin with Black Friday and will continue into the next year. If you are looking for good deals on hard to find wines normally sold in restaurants or winery direct, daily deals are where the action is. 

Every morning once impossible to buy wines like Ridge, Spottswoode, Silver Oak, Lail and Chateau d’Yquem are dangled before my eyes. And many high-end Bordeaux, Rhone and Italian wines that were centerpieces on wine lists are now offered online.

2020 sucks and we all want to start a new year. But maybe there’s a silver lining: There has never been a better time to restock your wine cellar with some of the best top rated wines that until recently were strictly allocated.

www.lastbottlewines.com and www.firstbottlewines.com

Based upon the flash sale model, lastbottlewines is headquartered in Napa Valley and has been gaining momentum and clients since its humble beginning in 2011. Its Three partners (Cory Wagner, Stefan Blicker and Brent Pierce) are young-ish with good connections in the wine world.

If you order too late, you get an empty wine case image with the not so subtle snooze you lose message. If you happen to buy the last bottle, they give you a $25 credit. Shipping is free on 4 or 6 bottles or more.

The comments are obviously aimed at millennials with an overuse of CAPS, preponderance of buzz words from awesome, bang, boom, wow, and references to a killer Vintage or “Rockstar winemaker.  Then you usually encounter more exclamation marks and 3 dots than your English teacher ever thought possible in one paragraph.

So many ROCKSTARS, so little time. The 2018 Ridge Lytton Springs quickly sold out.

Other recent examples of wines offered that’ll rock your world are Newton Chardonnay, Amavi Cabernet from Walla Walla, Pine Ridge’s Carneros Chardonnay, Lang & Reed’s Cabernet Franc, and a lovely 2016 Rioja from Bodegas Casa la Rad. 

Yes, they have an importer’s license and can offer super discounts on imports as well. It just offered a fabulous 2015 Brunello for $29. I couldn’t resist the 2019 Sauvignon Blanc from 

Matahiwi Estate, NZ, for $10. The 2018 Rivetto Langhe Nebbiolo for $18 was so tempting.

If you are looking for a fun, crazy day, you should be ready for one of lastbottles all-day

Marathon sales.

www.firstbottlewines.com

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This is the young sibling of lastbottle and it is more like a normal store, not a flash sale. It does offer one deal a day but stocks about 400 wines, with the mix slighted slanted toward California.

 Discounts are more modest in the 10-25% range, and prices on this site start at $14.95. This year it is coming up with much more interesting, hard to find wines than its sibling. Headline names at firstbottle include Von Strasser, Turley, Three Sticks, Lail Blueprint, Matthiasson, Peter Michael, Ridge and Scherrer, among many others.

The French selections are not to be overlooked.  Recent châteauneuf-du-Pape such as 2017 

Domaine Serguier, Cuvee Revelation for $39.95 caught my eye.

http://www.winespies.com

BEST for Napa & Sonoma Wines

Headquartered in Santa Rosa, California and founded in 2007 by Jason Seeber, winespies.com presents one new wine a day. The offers expire at midnight or until sold out. Recent selections are often selling out fast.

With new staff additions, Winespies is now one of the hot websites of 2020 as it finds wines from all parts of California and a few top-notch imports.

Be ready for their super re-stocking sale on Black Friday and the following Monday!

While the language and emphasis on “Spies “agents, and “operatives”…may seem silly, these guys are serious about wine sleuthing. So about the “agents” and “operatives,” get over it.

So far in 2020, winespies has offered wines from cult-like names such as Arietta, Amuse Bouche, and David Arthur. It has uncovered excellent wines from small producers like Aaron Wines in Paso Robles, Hawk & Horse in Napa, Two Sisters in Santa Barbara, and Annadel Estate in Sonoma. 

But the 2018 Schrader Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon Oakville Double Diamond was a major addition, pushing winespies to the top.

It was the first to offer the Groth Reserve Cabernet and Frog’s Leap Cab. The iconic Beekeeper Zinfandel is still available as is the Erik Kent Russian River Valley Pinot for $25. And there are a few off the wall discoveries such as the 2017 Red Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon from The Walls, a rising star.

Then it came up with a real wonderful surprise:La Sirena 2018 ‘Rosato’ Amador County Rosé of Primitivo for $18. La Sirena is Heidi Barrett’s own label.

The wine descriptions are lively and entertaining most of the time.

Excellent discounts, often 50%.

Delivery is on time.

Strong on California wines, especially Russian River Valley, Sonoma Valley and other Sonoma regions.

WTSO.com (Wines ‘Til Sold Out) 

BEST FLASH SALES, MULTIPLE OFFERINGS

This is a major player I’ve been following and using since 2012. The concept is based on a “flash-sale” model and a featured wine remains available until sold out.

Each day at least 4 wines are offered; when sales are brisk, the number could be as many as 10.

WTSO is on East Coast time, so sleepy West Coast folks could miss out on a few early specials.

Having survived a lawsuit related to misleading suggested prices, the site was upgraded and slightly reformatted in early 2017.

Now relying less on numerical ratings and wildly inflated prose, the site is much improved both in terms of its wine selections and its wine commentary.

While still emphasizing Italian and Spanish reds, it has vastly improved its selection of Bordeaux, Burgundy, Sancerre and Beaujolais. But its strength is in Rhone wines as typified by the 2016 Chateauneuf-du-Pape by Domaine Benedetti for $32.99. A Gigondas I’ve enjoyed is a best buy here: 2016 Domaine du Grand Montmirail Gigondas Vieilles Vignes $22.99. 

But there’s good depth in the Spanish offerings as typified by the 2016 Diez-Caballero Rioja Vendimia Seleccionada $16.99, 70% below retail.

Even the CA wines now show better selectivity. Recently good for Sonoma Pinot Noir and Napa Cabs. The Dutton-Goldfield’s 2016 Dutton Ranch/Freestone Hill Vineyard Pinot for $29.99 was recently offered and snapped up. Another winner, 2018 Robert Stemmler Pinot Noir Nugent Vineyard Russian River Valley, sold for $19.99. As a Syrah fan, I was surprised to see the 2013 Hall Napa Valley Darwin Syrah at $19.99.

Sad to say I missed out on an attractive $14 Languedoc, 2016 ‘Le Coeur’ by Domaine de Fabregues.  Sometimes with wtso a wine will re-appear, so I will not hesitate should this one return.

We have purchased wines from them, mostly French, and they arrived on time and in good condition. But I’m a little uncomfortable when it comes to those California wines that are unknown to me, cant be verified by others, and may be private labels from bulk wines. 

I regularly check the “Last Chance Wines” listed for bargains and free shipping.

The annual magnum marathon is a major Cyber Monday sale.  Several double magnums are included.

One of my favorites is the popular “Cheapskate Marathon” held twice a year. 

The price range for this marathon is $8.99-18.99

http://www.wineexpress.com

BEST FOR HIGH END, Luxury Wines

winexpress.com tries to balance “value and service” which suggests it is neither a giant warehouse nor a down-and-dirty discount site.  It is the exclusive online wine shop partner of The Wine Enthusiast catalog and website. So it is well-financed and has an excellent facility for storage and shipping.

So far in 2020, it has risen to the occasion and has picked up many once allocated wines from California and has vastly improved its high-end imported selections.

It really leads the field in upgrading to big-named wines like Gaja, Dominus, Sassicaia, Shafer, Caymus Special Select, and, yes Perrier-Jouet and Dom…all slightly discounted with the Sassicaia 25% below retail. 

I’ve not yet seen anyone else offer Quintessa, Phelps Insignia or Cakebread’s Reserve Chardonnay or Cabernet Sauvignon. And recently it secured an allotment of Orin Swift “Abstract,” Andy Erickson’s “Leviathan” in magnums and the luxury Corton-Charlemagne from Louis Latour and a 2017 Puligny Montrachet, Les Folatieres.”  

Add the 2016 Château La Nerthe Chateauneuf and the Pahlmeyer Merlot and Chardonnay to the recent offerings and the point is clear: wineexpress.com is getting first dibs on many wines once exclusive to top restaurants and/or sold direct from the winery.

The site works through the usual sorting procedures with click on searches by variety, price and region. It also offers several wine club options and gift packages.

One special touch is a series of videos taking you through tastings that are conducted by Josh Farrell, its Wine Director.

He often runs through the daily wine special which can then be purchased. He is one excellent swirler, BTW, and he encourages decanting and/or aerating young wine.

You can learn a lot about judging wine by watching a few of his videos.

And it continues to offer several good value wines under $20.

But overall,  this online site sticks to the high road ($50 and up) and allows some wriggle room for choices within each category.

www.invino.com

BEST UNDER THE RADAR SITE

Coming on strong, this site focuses on special direct imported wines, Napa and Sonoma Valley wines, and on super values from many other regions.

And also to its credit, the shallow hype, thick bs, and silly background stories, common to so many sites, are absent here. Being so low-keyed, it seems to slip under most people’s radar.

But there is an Impressive list of Napa Cabs from Von Strasser, Turnbull, Juslyn, and Sullivan Vineyards. It snagged 10 cases of Lail’s Blueprint Cabernet for $70 and Ridge’s Lytton Estate for $37. 

Pinot Noir fans can enjoy 50% off the 2015 Jigar Russian River Valley Pinot, offered at $23 and the 2018 Anthill Farms Sonoma Coast for $29.

There’s no loser in the stock list. I highly recommend checking this site out for yourself. 

Let me explain why I like it.

First, I prefer more than bargain wines, I want wines with some excitement and sizzle. I also look for wines that before discounts, I would normally find way over my budget.

www.sommselect.com

BEST FOR ESOTERIC, LITTLE KNOWN GEMS

This is the must site if you are looking for wines that are not available either in traditional wine shops or on most websites. Would you believe a Foxtrot Pinot Noir from Okanagan Valley or a Guy Amiot 2017 Chassagne-Montrachet or a 1966 Remoissenet Burgundy?  

Or the rare 2016 Christoph Edelbauer, Grüner Veltliner “Neuberg” Reserve Kamptal from Austria. Or a red Alto Adige made from a rare local grape, Schiava (a.k.a. Vernatsch, a.k.a. Trollinger). This was billed as “The World-Class Red You’ve Never Heard About” and they were right about that.

Headed by two sommeliers, Ian Cauble and David Lynch who are based in Sonoma, this site is dedicated to finding unusual, limited production wines that are true to their type.

 Discounts are modest. Occasionally, there’s a deal. But overall, you are paying full price.

This site will offer an outstanding wine from Greece, Austria, or Slovenia as well as unheralded or overlooked wines from California, Germany, Italy and France. 

The magic touch extends to New Zealand for a rare Central Otago Pinot or to Willamette Valley for the scarce 2017 Nicolas-Jay Pinot Noir. They even tracked down a rare Pinot Noir from Humboldt County made by Briceland Vineyards.

However, I sometimes wonder about the provenance of wines like the 1966 Burgundy and the recently offered 2003 Le Dome, St. Emilion. Where have they been all these years?  They also unearth some wild and strange wines such as the 1946 Roussillon Rivesaltes. Yes, that was 1946, and the bottle price was $250. 

But I also learn more from this site than any other. There are wines that I’ve never even heard of  such as the 2013 Chateau Simone which Cauble describes this way:  “Despite coming from some of France’s oldest vines, being run by the same family for 200 years, and maturing in a historic 16th-century cellar, Château Simone’s beguiling wines lie in relative obscurity. What’s clear, however, is that these rare beauties always yield an enchanting experience.”

Part of the enjoyment of wine is to discover a lovely wine that comes with a rich and exciting history. And make no mistake, you get tons of background information from these SOMMS.

The strengths here are not only wines from Italy and France, but also wines from Germany, Austria, and Portugal.

The curated themed 6-bottle collections are typically unusual, and come with reliable, insightful information. 

 In fact, I recommend this site to anyone studying or WSET.

http://www.wineaccess.com

Best comeback website

For mythology fans, this is your phoenix in the online marketing world. Wineaccess started in late 1997, stumbled during the dotcom crash by web hosting wine shops, and barely survived until 2006. 

The turnaround began that year when the company which was an online portal based in Philadelphia connecting consumers with retailers rose from its ashes to develop a new direct to consumer marketing program. 

Then the company was bought in 2015 by Northwest Venture Partners, a venture capitalist firm. Now based in Napa, it is run by Vanessa Conlin, MW, along with other relatively young people with an MS or an MW candidate.  With her team running the ship, it is smooth sailing, easy to navigate with good background commentary for each wine.  You can check to see what each Somm recommends, go to the “Under $30” list, or see what the daily deal is. The deals are available for 3 days or until the wine is sold out.

“Wines direct from the source” is the slogan. Its mantra is that fine wines are made in small quantities, and its goal is to find them and offer the best deals. 

But let’s return to the online  “discoveries.” Each day at 10:00 in the morning, an email announces the wine of the day. 

The morning message consists of a detailed background narrative of the wine and the wine producer, and you sense that the story presented is the key to this online marketing. Prices are spelled out for fewer than 12 bottles, but discounts are deeper for a case or more. 

Shipping is free for 6 bottles or orders of $120.

First, the good news is that many wines are worthy of our attention and the choices are keeping up with the times. From Napa it offers wines from Vermillion, Vine Cliff, Grgich Hills, Dalla Valle and Bevan Cellars. From other places, there is Foxen Pinot Noir, Bedrock Zinfandel, Meyer Family Syrah, and County Line Rose from Anderson Valley. 

The 2017 Provenance Napa Valley Cab for $39 is indeed a steal at 40% off.

Among imports, the 2018 Château Croix d’Aumedes is a great find in a Corbieres selling for $14.95. It also has Chateau Parenchere, a Bordeaux red I often enjoyed when living in France. 

I’d also stock up on the Chateau du Glana very attractive at $39. 

The site charts prices and suggests you routinely save 30% to 50% on a full case.

Good news is that despite a pandemic and fires, it delivers on time with no delays or excuses needed. And the enclosed printed material is concise information.

A Worthy List of Cellar Worthy Wines

 Bravo Oldtimer Wine Pub

The Wine Enthusiast magazine, an oldie for sure, just released its list of the Top 100 Cellar Worthy wines. A great timely list to help re-stock your cellars.

https://www.winemag.com

These are my top ten reasons why this list is a must read for today’s non-snobby, open-minded wine drinker.

  1. The list is fascinating in its choices because the wines are not the usual predictable big names. And it is not pimping (too much) to advertisers. Only the top ranked Antinori was predictable along with Biondi-Santi Brunello and, yes, Dominus. The La Jota mention may be a bone thrown to the Jackson Family.
  2. It gets you out of the cult Cabernet rut. The number 2 most cellar worthy wine is a Syrah, not Cabernet or Bordeaux. And it was Terre Rouge’s Ascent from Sierra Foothills which, BTW, I’ve been praising for years.  Betz Family Syrah is also an excellent choice.

3. Not based on price: The list includes many nicely priced wines, about half priced below $75.

4. It reminds us white wines can age:  The selections include the Tablas Creek Esprit Blanc, a Copain Anderson Valley Chardonnay, a German Riesling, and a Pinot Gris from Alsace. Another Bravo for that daring choice.

5. It lists quite a few wines from Oregon and Washington. Kudos for including a Merlot from Walla Walla, home to some of the best Merlot around. Intriguing mention of Horsepower Syrah from Walla Walla which I’ll try to find.

6. Not Napa Valley driven: It lists very few Napa wines, but does have the Heitz Martha’s Vineyard Cabernet and a Mayacamas Chardonnay.

7. A few wines are downright discoveries and bargains such as the Buty Semillon-Sauvignon from Washington for $25 and a 2017 Cahors for $24. Biggest discovery of all may be the Halcon “Esquisto” Red Yorkville Highlands.

8. Great choices of Pinot Noir from Central Otago, Alsace, and Oregon. There’s even a German Pinot Noir.

9. Sparkling wines as age-worthy? Of course, but great to see Roederer’s Hermitage from Mendocino getting full recognition along with Bollinger and Cliquot.

10. Excellent choices of 2017 Bordeaux: the Chateau Carbonnieux is the 4th best and priced at $45. Right, no Petrus, no chateau Margaux. No hyping of the latest vintage for another bravo.