Author: robywine, norm roby

My career as a wine journalist/critic began in 1975 when my article about California Petite Sirah was published. My focus remained on California as I edited a monthly wine magazine and then moved on to The Wine Spectator in 1982. Over the following years, my column appeared under the banner of “Stormin’ Norman, and I also wrote articles about wine collectors and wine auctions. Without getting into a year by year bio, let me try to summarize here. During my time with The Spectator which I enjoyed immensely, I taught wine classes at a culinary school and at other venues in San Francisco. Before venturing into wine, teaching was my thing, English Lit and Rhetoric. After The Spectator I was the U.S. Contributor to Decanter Magazine, writing mostly about California, but also expanding into Washington State and Oregon. My Decanter years began in 1992 and after buying a summer home in France in 2000, I traveled throughout France and eventually published articles about St. Emilion, Castillon, Bergerac, Minervois, Roussillon, Luberon, Provence, and Alsace. Also, around 2000, my wife began working for Cousino-Macul in Chile, so we tasted and traveled our way through Chile and, of course, managed to fly over the Andes and explore and taste our way through Argentina. As travel lovers, we have also spent many interesting days visiting the wine regions of Spain, Italy, Portugal, Scicily, Greece, and New Zealand. And to come to a close, I was Director of Winesong, a Charity Wine Auction for 20 years, 1992-2000 that benefitted a local hospital. That brought me in contact with wine collectors and to the auction scene. And finally, I co-authored a book, The Connoisseurs’ Guide to California Wine published by Alfred A. Knopf. It went through 4 editions and sold over 500.000 copies.

Labor Day Sales: We Got A Winner

Just when I was about to give up on Labor Day wine sales, this message arrived:

“Up to 80% off on 250+ wines”

Well, not all wines are 80% off, but there were many excellent deals. The big surprise was wines under $10, but I found many to like for under $20. 

 The winner is  www.wineExpress.com

Here are are my choices for best deals:

2020 Barossa Valley Shiraz $7.47

2020 Château Suau Rose, Bordeaux $7.47

2 from Lodi:

2019 Judd’s Hill Zinfandel $15.47

2018 Berghad Cabernet Sauvignon $13.47

2 Oregon Pinot Noir:

2018 Lazy River Yamhill Carlton, $17.47

2018 Belle Fiori, Rogue Valley $10.47

2 Best Reds:

2019 Chateau Bourdieu, Bordeaux $12.47

2019 McBride Sisters Central Coast $14.47

Browse the list to find those you prefer. Many big names with big price tags are included.

Shipping is free on any 12 bottle order.

My Overview of wineExpress.com

wineExpress.com tries to balance “value and service” which suggests it is neither a giant warehouse nor a down-and-dirty discount site.  It is the exclusive online wine shop partner of The Wine Enthusiast catalog and website. So it is well-financed and has an excellent facility for storage and shipping.

It really leads the online field in big-named wines like Gaja, Dominus, Sassicaia, Shafer, Caymus Special Select, and, yes Perrier-Jouet and Dom…all slightly discounted with the Sassicaia 25% below retail. 

The site works through the usual sorting procedures with click on searches by variety, price and region. It also offers several wine club options and gift packages.

But, and this is interesting. It also sorts the Labor Day list by “Woman Owned” and “Minority Owned.”

One special touch is a series of videos taking you through tastings that are conducted by Josh Farrell, its Wine Director.

He often runs through the daily wine special which can then be purchased. He is one excellent swirler, BTW, and he encourages decanting and/or aerating young wine.

You can learn a lot about judging wine by watching a few of his videos.

And throughout the year this site continues to offer several good value wines under $20.

Walking the Walk at Troon

www.winereviewonline.com 

http://www.troonvineyard.com

“Organic and biodynamic are not the same ” was the first lesson brought home during a recent visit to Troon Vineyard in the Applegate Valley of Southern Oregon. It turned out to be the first of many new things learned during this eye-opening visit.  Later in the day, Garett Long, who’s in charge of  developing and tending the vineyards and all other living things, acknowledged that when it comes to understanding biodynamics, “a healthy skepticism is understandable.” 

Allowing him to assume my skepticism was “healthy,”  I, like many consumers and wine industry folks who believe in sustainability and oppose pesticides, become just a little skeptical when it comes to the buried cowhorn ritual and connecting farming to phases of the moon. BTW: the second thing I learned is that the cowhorn rituals are part of what is known as “preps,” various ways to reinvigorate the soil.

Those wacky sounding rituals are key to Demeter certified biodynamic which was developed as most lovers know by its founder, Rudolph Steiner of Austria. After a century-long slog, the movement is growing and today about 100 wineries in the US and an estimated 500 in Europe are Demeter Certified. Biodynamics, in a nutshell, “takes a holistic approach to regenerative agriculture and focuses on minimum outside intrusion. And one key is that unlike organic farming, it emphasizes naturally produced compost and biodiversity.” In other words, it is all about soils and manure. And insects, bugs, wild animals and native plants.

At the end of the walk through the vineyards and gardens, I was convinced what Troon is creating is all based upon solid scientific research, much of it recent. Though I’m still not buying into the moon stuff, the preps are also based on science. For example prep #507 consists of  Valerian which is in “a liquid preparation that stimulates the phosphorus processes in the soil and forms a sort of warm, protective blanket around the compost, like the skin of an organism. It also has a secondary role in regulating magnesium and selenium.”  Biodynamic Preparation 506, I’m sure you are anxious to hear, is made from dandelions which grow on the Troon farm.

Admittedly, science can be boring to a non-scientist and there’s not much romance associated with composting and manure. But Troon truly has its manure together.  Troon is not only certified organic and biodynamic but is now also Regenerative Organic certified. There are only two wineries making that claim today; the other is Tablas Creek. Both emphasize Rhone varieties which may be a coincidence but that caught my attention which was getting a little weak during the walk through the vineyard with what seemed like non-stop scientific talk.

Long, who holds a Master’s in Soils and Biogeochemistry from UC Davis, employs the “five principles of soil health” at Troon: “composting, avoiding soil disturbance, keeping living roots growing, maximizing diversity, and integrating livestock.” Nowadays, Long adds that he is really “pushing the cover crop envelope.”

Troon, which was founded in 1972 and fell on hard times, was acquired in 2017 by Denise and Bryan White of Arlington, Texas. Soon the first steps were taken in an amazing long term transformation. The estate consists of 100 acres, and 50 have been recently replanted to vines. It also has vegetable and herb gardens, a large lake, and sheep, chickens, dogs and bees.  A new garden is devoted entirely to native plants, all planted from seed. Demeter requires that 10 acres be set aside for biodiversity, but they have exceeded that at Troon. 

Located in the Applegate Valley of Southern Oregon, Troon is cutting edge and exploring new approaches to winemaking as it redefines a traditional winery and vineyard into an independent and diverse farm.

 A solar barn is being built to eventually supply all electrical needs. Tractors and other farming machines will soon also be electric. Zero carbon footprint is the goal.

Most of the vines are head trained and the goal is to eventually dry farm all 50 acres. As for their gardens, the philosophy is a“no till gardening with a seven year crop rotation.”  And the emphasis everywhere is on diversity.

Looking around at the vineyards, gardens, orchards, and compost heaps, I’m now convinced these are not science nerds, I’m in the presence of talented, forward thinking agriculturists and winemakers. So far, nothing about the cycles of the moon from anyone.

When it comes to wines, Troon aims to capture a sense of place. In my earlier reviews of Troon’s Tannat and Vermentino posted several weeks ago, both wines came across as unusual and exciting interpretations. But everything is just beginning to be put into place, and the estate vineyards are just coming into production.  

Described as a transitional growing region between the Willamette Valley and Napa, Applegate Valley enjoys an elevation of 1,200-1,400 feet, surrounded by the Siskiyou Mountains and 60 miles from the Pacific Ocean. As I learned, Troon’s vineyards are located on the Kubli Bench, and this site is warmer and dryer than the Willamette Valley, but cooler and wetter than Napa. “It has a shorter growing season than Napa, but gets 70 minutes more of sunshine daily and no fog. As the days get shorter, sugar accumulation stops, resulting in fully ripened fruit and lower alcohol wines.”  Four different soil types have been identified, and while no surprise to hear Syrah thrives on the gravely sites, Vermentino has proven to fare well on clay soils.

Moving on to current wines. 

Winemaking is handled by Nate Winters who previously worked for Archery Summit. Armed with scientific information, he too follows the biodynamic approach. His explanation of the benefits of amphora and concrete eggs was spot on.  He does not add commercial yeasts, acids, sugar, tannins or sulfur during the fermentation process which uses native yeasts. And all wines go through spontaneous malolactic fermentation. And yes, they are bottled unfined and unfiltered, but a little SO2 is added at the time of bottling. (And no, nothing about bottling being timed with  the moon.)

The winery is a mix of standard small stainless tanks and an oak barrel room, and opposite the barrels is a row of clay amphora and one concrete egg. The oak is mostly French but none of the wines are aged in new oak. Though armed with the latest equipment, Winters explains for maximum extraction of some wines, the grapes are foot stomped. For the varieties used for Amber or orange wines,” we performed extra leaf removal on these vines in the vineyard to allow for more sun penetration into the fruiting zone, further developing the skin tannins of the grapes.” 

Favoring whites and Roses, the current wine roster is a mix of the unusual and the conventional. There’s a pet-nat and an orange wine, and usual blends named Druid’s White and Druid’s Red. “Glou-Glou,” a grenache made by carbonic maceration, is strange. But the Syrah and Tannat are both impressive.  Whites relying on Vermentino are early standouts. Neither Chardonnay nor Pinot Noir seem to be in the game plan. The most recent plantings are to Negrette and Tiburon. Unfamiliar with Tiburon, I learned it plays an important role in Provence Roses.

 My guess is that with vine maturity, Troon will add more red wines to the mix.

Wines Tasted, posted at www.winereviewonline.com 

2022 Troon Vineyard Kubil Bench Rose, Applegate Valley $25

Made from young vineyards coming into production, this Rose brings together

Mourvèdre, Cinsault, Counoise, Carignan, and Negrette, all farmed to make rosé. 

Light pink in color, the wine is a charming, refreshing Rose with berry and spice flavors, a silky texture and good acidity. Modest in alcohol and crisp in the finish, it holds up well over time and is thoroughly enjoyable.

93

2021 Troon Vineyard Applegate Valley  Druid’s White  $25

Labeled “Druid’s Fluid” until recently, this most recent white blend has a lot to offer.  Made from 65% Vermentino, 22% Marsanne and 13% Roussanne, all harvested over a 10-day period. The Vermentino was foot trodden before its barrel fermentation. The time in used oak for primary and secondary fermentation averaged 8 months. 

With flavors of  green apple, lemon zest and light spice, this wine’s appeal is mostly about texture and good balancing acidity. The flavors are clean orchard fruit (mainly pear) and the finish is vibrant. 

90

2022  Troon Vineyard  Applegate Valley “Piquette”  $25

If you too don’t know what a piquette is, here’s the background: “It is  frugal farmer fizz,

a type of natural wine that has been made for hundreds, if not thousands, of years. Those frugal farmers wasted nothing. They would add water to the juice and skins left after pressing the

wines they sell to make wine for themselves and their workers.” This Troon 2022 is more like a Pet-Nat with good body, alcohol and flavor. But it is still unusual being made from rehydrated skins from several varieties, mainly reds destined for Roses. Winemaker Walls adds:””the remaining skins are rehydrated overnight in the press where it is pressed again the following morning.Then a day or two later, the next lot of fruit comes into the winery that will also end up in the piquette.” And on and on.

The result is a wine with an orange tinge and very fruity with pleasing slightly fizzy flavors. It captures some apple and fresh herbs which remain vibrant on the palate, but in an easygoing manner.

90

2022 Troon Vineyard “Kubli Bench Amber” Applegate Valley $35

This one falls within the orange wine category and is made from 70% Vermentino, 25% Viognier, and 5% Roussanne. Each is fermented separately in open-top fermentors located outdoors, typically with about 30% whole-cluster inclusion. Fermentations proceed spontaneously with native yeasts, The Vermentino, grapes were foot tread before being loaded into the press, leading to a bit more extraction before being settled and transferred to neutral french oak barrels for fermentation. 

Light orange in color, this is a highly aromatic wine with a silky smooth texture and flavors that expand nicely on the palate. With discernible acidity in the background, it finishes long.  Despite being easy to drink on its own, it pairs well with food, including blue cheese.

92

2020 Troon Vineyard Applegate Valley Estate Syrah $35.

About 33% was whole cluster fermented, and after a 4 week fermentation, the wine was pressed off and aged in neutral oak for 18 months. It is deep in color, but then offers plenty of ripe fruit, with black pepper in a medium bodied style. The  aroma is mostly black plum with a touch of thyme and pepper. The flavors are similar but the palate impression is one of bright, lively fruit that seems more savory than powerful. Kind of understated elegance and balanced by good acidity. 250 cases made.

94

Syrah now joins my list of  successes to date at Troon Vineyards. And at this early stage, the Troon team seems to be walking the walk. And that’s not a moon walk!

A Perfect Summer Red Wine and A Real Bargain!

Just discovered and uncorked the 2020 Pinot Noir from Clay Shannon at, hold on, $5.99 a bottle. It normally sells for $22.00.

From Shannon’s Long Valley vineyards in Lake County, this Pinot is being blown out at select Trader Joe’s.

Whatever the reason may be for the sale, a deal is a deal.

This Pinot has been rated 89 to 92 points by the usual suspects.

To my palate, it is a light style Pinot  but correct, with bright cherry fruit and oak spice, well-balanced with a pleasing finish.

My Rating: 91

With luck, I’ll see you at the checkout counter,

Wines to Buy at 3-Day Sales Event

At WTSO.com 

The 3-day sale with rotating stock starts today.

It is a case sale, with all wine offered at $150 a case with free shipping

The wines ordered ship the next day

And for those uncomfortable with math: The per bottle price is $12.49!!

Explores the sale at http://www.WTSO.com (Wines ‘Til Sold Out)

What I’m buying:

2018 Château de Ribebon  AOC Bordeaux Superieur (70% Merlot, 20% Cabernet, 10% Cab Franc)

2022 Chateau Lamothe, Bordeaux Blanc (Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon)

2020 Tresors de Loire Chinon (Cabernet Franc)

The two Bordeaux wines are extremely attractive.

The Chinon is an excellent example of Loire Valley Cab Franc, especially at 60% below retail

All three are rated 90+.

Don’t like these: There are several red wines from Lodi if you like that style.

Pinot Noir Deal of the Day

Deal of the Day!

Just noticed one of my favorite Pinot Noirs is being offered at an amazing price of $22.

The offer comes from www.wineaccess.com.

Here’s what they have to say:

“Solena Grande Cuvée is the Pinot that led us to rethink the term “quality-to-price ratio” and start saying “quality-to-price disparity” instead. The 2021, from a landmark year, has it all: balance, deep red fruit, cleansing acidity, and a personality that makes it hard to put that cork back in.”

Better yet, here’s my recent review from http://www.winereviewonline.com

Soléna Estate, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Noir “Grand Cuvée” 2021 ($28):

This may well be today’s best value in Oregon Pinot Noir.  Made from a selection of the family’s vineyards in the Yamhill and McMinnville AVAs, this Cuvee offers a lovely aroma that is at once complex and compelling.  A subtle melange of raspberry, and truffles with hints of earthiness define both the aroma and flavors.  On the palate it is medium bodied with bright raspberry / blackberry flavors that gain in intensity with airing and take you to a big, rich finish.  With light tannins, it can be enjoyed now or cellared a few more years.  It bears repeating: an excellent value.       

94 Norm Roby Mar 21, 2023

BEST SUMMER SIPPER WINE SALE

SEE IT AT  http://www.cawineclub.com

One of the oldest online wine sellers, the California Wine Club has a solid reputation for pricing and reliability. So it comes as no surprise that several small wineries looking for new sales outlets have discovered it.

And you should see what it is offering right now.

The summer sippers for under $20 are led by two of my favorites, each at $10.99:

2021 Clos La Chance Estate Sauvignon Blanc

2018 South Coast Winery Viognier

For the Pinot Grigio lover, check out the Mountain View Winery’s at $16.99

And there are two first rate wines from Brutocao Cellars in Mendocino: Chardonnay and

Cabernet Sauvignon

The selection at the cawineclub changes as new wineries catch on and offer their wine.

Among recent additions that are out of the ordinary are Malbec From Yorkville Cellars, a Carmenere made by Plaisance Ranch and one of the most sought after dry Rieslings, the 2020 Poet’s Leap from Long Shadow.

 the EX Monterey Pinot Noir from Wrath wines is another hard to find wine

Not all wines are deeply discounted as this club also functions like a traditional retailer.

And it offers hard to find wines like this beauty from Joel Peterson:

2020 Once and Future Zinfandel, Teldeschi Vineyard, Frank’s Block

With occasional new offerings like that, you owe it to yourself to check out the site

Specializing in small, family owned wineries, most from California, the site works smoothly with 4 categories: 

Super Savers

Artisan and Under $50

For Connoisseurs

Recent Club Features

Frequently, this club has a $1 case shipping deal, so it is wise to get on the email list.

End of February Wine Sale

Get ready to cherry pick a big wine sale featuring 150 wines at 40-50% price reductions

And $5 case shipping. 

Highlights: 150 wines up for sale

The website: vintagewineestates.com 

On Tuesday the 28th, Vintage Wine Estates will offer 150 wines from its portfolio of wineries. 

The collection ranges from top notch wineries like Owen Roe, Qupe, Kunde, Laetitia, Clos Pegase and several others that are fully functional real wineries.

And, yes, the portfolio includes your basic supermarket brands like cherry pie and layer cake.

VWE as the company likes to be called, has so far encouraged many of its wineries to function as they always have.

It added a new brand “Bar Dog” that may appeal to some of you.

And I do like to fun/pun it created with the brand, “If You See Kay.” 

Here are the wineries to look for in this sale:

Owen Roe Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and other reds from Red Willow Vineyard

Tamarack  Firehouse Red for $12

Qupe Grenache $18

Laetitia Pinot Noir

Kunde Zinfandel

B.R. Cohn Chardonnay, Cabernet

Delectus Napa Valley

Can’t  find anything you like? Well then, just If You See Kay it!

3 Reasons to Shop Last Bottle

When it comes to rating the top online wine sellers today, the last word is Last Bottle.

I’ve been following it and another two dozen sites for several years now and, yes, I faithfully look at everyone’s daily deals, special offers, clearance sales and whatever else. 

Most sites are hyping the same wines after covid and are so predictable.

But not Last Bottle.

Wine.com is great in many ways, but it doesn’t list many of the small, hidden gems that Last Bottle uncovers.

I also think highly of winespies.com, reversewinesnob.com and wineaccess.com.

Last Bottle, however, is best at 3 key things:

  1. Big, real discounts!! Often over 50%.
  2.  Great selection, ever changing, not the usual fare.
  3.  Exciting, informative, and fun to read website and wine comments.

All of this along with a proven track record and yet there’s no personality behind it, no person by name.

And therefore no ego in evidence. No sommelier or wine expert showing off.

It is all done by teamwork, by wine competence, and by a crazy, noisy, got you by the throat style.

The question remains: who the heck are the people behind Last Bottle? 

I asked that and several other questions and was surprised at the quick and  informative response.

But I still don’t know that much about the people. The best I have is this photo:

What sets their sales approach apart from the others are the unusual and energized wine descriptions. Here’s a typical introduction to a featured Shiraz:

“Quick poll…who’s seen the video where the guy rescues his dog from the headlock of a big ol’ kangaroo and then squares off (you might want to Google it)!? Man, those Aussies are just the best. Speaking of BEST, how about 94 POINTS and THIRTEEN American dollars (that’s 18.60 Aussie dollars, by the by)??!! Mount Langi Ghiran SHIRAZ!!! Pure craziness.”

Or this one about a Barbaresco:

“WOOHOO!!! If you could make Burgundy with nebbiolo, this just might be it. Fine, elegant texture, no heaviness, but STACKED, simply soaring with beautifully fresh and dried roses, red cherry, orange pekoe tea, a dash of allspice and cinnamon, freshly turned earth, and shaved truffles, some toasted hazelnuts…my, oh my! SO GOOD! This will age like a champ, too – so get a few extra to save. We get all contemplative and nostalgic whenever we drink Rivetti. This is complex, thoughtful, fine, focused, and distinctly reaching for a higher level.”

These atypical wine comments keep on coming and may strike some as silly and irreverent, but their descriptions are clever, creative, and so unlike the mechanical writeups encountered elsewhere.  And the wines are top quality.

To learn more about these folks, see my article posted at http://www.winereviewonline.com

Here’s one question I asked that’s sure to tease you:

Q: You say your team tastes 40,000 wines a year, or roughly 800 a week. Really? Is that true or hype?

A: This is 100% true. When the tasting bar becomes too packed with bottles we set them on the floor, and have to carve little paths to get through. It can seem ridiculous, but it speaks to our commitment to assessing every wine to find the gems that make it into a daily offer. 

Here they are hard at work: the Chateau Les Feet of wine sellers:

A Year End Clearance Sale Not to be Missed

winespies.com has a wine sale unlike any other in my experience.

What a great opportunity to stock up on wines and wonderful way to ring in the New Year!!

The clearance consists of well-established, big names and recent cult-wine candidates like my most recent discovery, Giornata in Paso Robles.

There’s an added wrinkle as in each day the discounts are deeper, but the wines may disappear If you hesitate.

So, first go to the website, study the procedure for its “top secret Clearance” and go through the list to see what appeals to you.

Meanwhile, here’s the list with my suggestions highlighted in bold.

Excellent selection of Napa Cabs and Chateauneuf-du-Pape!!

I could say more, but time is critical.

The list:

Bodegas Corral 2017 ‘Altos’ Single Estate Crianza Rioja
Bodegas Orán 2017 ‘Soleá’ Valdebebas Rioja
The Vice 2020 ‘Carbone’ Single Vineyard Coombsville Cabernet Sauvignon
Paolo Manzone 2020 ‘Mirinè’ Nebbiolo d’Alba
Château Grand Moulin 2017 ‘Réserve Elysée’ Corbières
BoutenacXavier Vignon 2020 ‘Cuvée Anonyme’ Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc
Mazzei 2019 ‘Philip’ Toscana IGT Cabernet Sauvignon
Domaine du Grand Tinel 2019 ‘Classique’ Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Bodegas Manzanos 2001 ‘Vino de Autor’ Voché Rioja
The Vice 2020 ‘The Hostage’ Single Vineyard Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon
Viñedos de Páganos 2007 El Puntido Gran Reserva Rioja
Empress Vineyards 2019 Los Carneros Reserve Pinot Noir
Cuvée Wine Cellars 2014 Carneros Merlot
ALTA 2018 ‘NorCal’ Atlas Peak Napa Valley Cabernet Blend
Luca Bosio 2018 BaroloAveraen 2019 ‘Flood Line’
Chehalem Mountains Chardonnay
CVNE 2015 ‘Viña Real’ Gran Reserva Rioja
Giornata 2019 ‘Gemellaia’ Paso Robles Proprietary Red
Esk Valley 2016 ‘The Terraces’ Hawke’s Bay Proprietary Red
Kendric Vineyards 2018 Petaluma Gap Estate Pinot Noir
Château Magrez Fombrauge 2011 St.-Émilion Grand Cru
Bodegas Manzanos 2009 ‘125 Aniversario’ Reserva Rioja
Gorman Winery 2018 ‘The Devil You Don’t Know’ Columbia Valley Red
Palladian 2018 Napa Valley Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon
Diego Conterno 2017 BaroloTeso
la Monja 2018 ‘Victorino’ Toro
Domaine de Rosiers 2019 ‘Cuvée Drevon’ Côte-Rôtie
Château Lafleur du Roy 2019 ‘Les Lavandières’ Pomerol
Maison Champy 2017 Beaune 1er Cru
Luigi Vico 2017 Prapò Barolo
Galerie 2017 ‘Pleinair’ Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon
Le Clos du Caillou 2020 ‘Les Quartz’ Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Domaine Chanson 2018 Beaune Clos des Mouches Rouge 1er Cru
Château de Vaudieu 2019 ‘L’Avenue’ Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Xavier Vignon 2012 ‘Cuvée Anonyme’ Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Grattamacco 2018 ‘Grattamacco’ Bolgheri Superiore
Elvio Cogno 2017 Ravera Barolo
Shannon Family 2020 ‘Devil’s Well’ Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon
Bodegas Viyuela 2017 White Label Crianza Ribera del Duero
La Pitchoune 2019 Holder Vineyard Russian River Valley Pinot Noir
Rocca di Montegrossi 2016 ‘San Marcellino’ Gran Selezione
Charles Smith 2017 Substance ‘Cs’ Stoneridge Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon
Frisson 2019 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon
Domaine Chanson 2018 Beaune Clos des Mouches Blanc 1er Cru
Bodegas Breca 2018 ‘Brega’ Calatayud
Château Montlandrie 2012 Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux
GrapeHeart Vineyards 2016 ‘GHV’ Estate Cabernet Sauvignon
Caiarossa 2015 ‘Caiarossa’ IGT Toscana
Château Jean Faure 2019 St.-Émilion Grand Cru
Cantina di Negrar 2019 ‘Le Preare’ Ripasso della Valpolicella Superiore
Beau Vigne 2019 ‘Juliet’ Atlas Peak Cabernet Sauvignon
Roberto Cavalli 2018 Tenuta degli Dei Toscana IGT
Talley Vineyards 2019 Rincon Vineyard Estate Grenache
Domaine Bertagna 2016 Les Plantes Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru
Domaine Bertagna 2016 Clos de la Perrière Monopole Vougeot 1er Cru
Domaine Raymond Usseglio 2019 ‘Cuvée Impériale’ Vignes CentenairesChâteauneuf-du-Pape
Domaine Chanson 2018 Corton-Vergennes Blanc Grand Cru
Tenet 2015 ‘GSM’ Columbia Valley Red
Shannon Family 2019 Giannecchini Vineyard Cabernet Blend
Wine Guerrilla 2018 Hemar Vineyard Alexander Valley Zinfandel
Saddleback Cellars 2017 Napa Valley Merlot
Markus Molitor 2019 Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Mosel Riesling GKA***
Domaine du Grand Tinel 2019 ‘Alexis Establet’ Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Warwick Estate 2018 ‘The Blue Lady’ Stellenbosch Estate Cabernet Sauvignon
Sanford 2015 ‘Fountain Hills’ Santa Barbara County Pinot Noir
Bibi Graetz 2019 ‘Testamatta 20 Anniversario’ Toscana IGT
Montevetrano 2018 Colli di Salerno IGT Cabernet Blend
Salvatore Molettieri 2012 ‘Vigna Cinque Querce’ Taurasi
Viñedos del Contino 2016 ‘Contino’ Reserva Rioja
Maison Passot Les Rampaux 2020 Régnié Cru Beaujolais
Gagliole 2018 ‘Valetta’ Colli della Toscana Centrale IGT
DAOU 2019 ‘Patrimony’ Adelaida District Cabernet Sauvignon
GAJA 2015 ‘Sorì San Lorenzo’ Barbaresco
Larkmead 2017 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon
Ad Vivum 2018 Sleeping Lady Vineyard Yountville Cabernet Sauvignon
Apsara Cellars 2015 Amoenus Vineyard Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon
Maison Champy 2018 Chassagne-Montrachet

Tin City: The Other Side of Paso

Topping my to do list over the last two years has been to visit and explore Tin City. Although I researched it in advance, It was not at all what I had expected. In fact, Tin City is simply amazing, an original, creative concept enabling small wineries to get established and allowing winemakers who think out of the box a real opportunity to pursue their dreams.

Best of all,  either can be done without shelling out mega millions.

For those unfamiliar with it, Tin City is located in an industrial area southeast of downtown Paso Robles. With train tracks running along its eastern edge, it began around 2005 and is now home to 25 wineries, a brewery, a distiller, cider works and a market.

 Tin City is not your typical urban winery circuit, however.  It is not the same concept as Santa Barbara’s sprawling “Funk Zone ” with its converted warehouses found along a ten block trail. And it is unlike those wineries clustered in downtown Napa,  along the Sonoma plaza, or Walla Walla, all with tasting rooms lining their main streets. 

Tin City started from scratch. It is the wine world’s version of “if you build it, they will come.”And it is also home to small wineries actually making wines on site. That’s correct, these wineries are crushing, processing and bottling their wines in the area behind their tasting rooms. And they all appear to have forklifts which were quite active during my visit.

Making beer on site, the brewery was the first to settle in and it has been a popular destination with live music and special events ever since.

And soon the concept of onsite, small artisans began to take shape. If you want more background, there’s a documentary on YouTube  produced a few years ago. It demonstrates that Tin City wineries are involved in all of the hands on, messy winemaking stages. The amazing part is that somehow winery owners were able to work through the planning department and cut through the red tape and impact studies required in other wine regions.

One person interviewed in the documentary explains that Tin City’s wineries are owned and operated by “career changers and cellar rats.” My introduction to the wines coming out of Tin City was through Desparada, the creation of Vailia From, owner and winemaker. Described by some as a “rebel winemaker” and “free spirit,” she is definitely unconventional, but also wonderfully creative.  

Desparada

Here’s Vailia’s background: “I’ve seen every side of the industry, from winemaking to harvesting, to importing, cold calling for sales, to managing brokerages, to working on restaurant floors, and managing a mobile bottling line. There’s something in wine that kept me going. I’m a traveler by nature, and Desparada is what carries me.” 

She made one experimental barrel in 2008, and then made her first commercial wines at Tin City in 2009.

She likely designed the label artwork and prefers giving her wines proprietary names like “Soothsayer” and “Sackcloth & Ashes,” for a Bordeaux blend.  Three separate Sauvingnon Blancs are made, again bearing special names.  My first  Desparada wine was the  2018 “Fragment” Sauvignon Blanc which won me over with its ripe, expansive aroma, and leesy, slightly oaked and herbal personality.  The name Desparada is a play on a female outlaw type.  Yes, she is unusual.  

Here are her tasting notes for Soothsayer: “Calcareous acid trip, mezcal spanked blueberries, fire-roasted poblanos with creme fresh, country club ashtray, three legged cat, first date jitters.”   

She completes her bio with this note: “I spent two years living in a 1977 Royal International trailer on Pine Hawk Vineyard, where the idea of Desparada was born. I make my own deodorant.”

That says it all. 

 Always A Rhone 

 Another wine from Tin City that caught my attention about a year ago was from Nicora. Focusing on small batch Rhône wines, winemaker Nick Elliott works with vineyards on Paso’s Westside, and his lineup today consists of  an excellent Viognier from Denner Vineyard, 3 single vineyard Syrahs and a GSM.  His 2018,  65% Grenache, 30% Syrah and 5% Mourvedre, is a personal favorite.  My review of that wine noted “it offers plum, leather and spice aromatics in a smooth, savory medium bodied package.  It comes across as delicious and seamless, with light tannins.  More nuanced and layered than ripe and jammy.  Enjoy now and over the next few years.” 

Elliott comes across in his bio as the ultimate “cellar rat” working his way up, willing to do everything himself to learn the winemaking process from start to finish. All that one needed to know to run a small winery.  Here is how he introduces the winery:

“Nicora was started with little resources, and has been built from the ground up.  It truly began in the cellar, where I learned from mentors such as Scott Hawley (Torrin), Eric Jensen (Booker), and Bob Tillman (Alta Colina).  I worked for the funds to buy grapes and barrels, and spent many hours with purple hands and wet boots.  My dream was to hand craft wines that would be both a personal expression and a reflection of the unique vineyards found within Paso Robles, and beyond.”      

Syrah and Rhone wines are, of course, central to the Paso winescape, but in Tin City, you encounter those who go their own way. That leads me to Giornata Winery, my most recent discovery and what a story it comes with. Owned by Stephanie and Brian Terrizzi,  this winery makes nothing but wines from Italian varieties from vineyards in and around Paso. 

Cal-Ital, Again?

Now before you think that’s crazy, some of us remember that in the 1990s there was a mini trend underway in all parts of California in a movement dubbed  “Cal-Ital” which had dozens of wineries working with Babera and a range of Italian wines. It fizzled but that doesn’t mean it was a bad idea. Just bad timing.

Giornata focuses on more than Barbera and Sangiovese. The Italian varieties they work with include Sangiovese, Aglianico, Barbera, Vermentino, Fiano, Ramato, Gemellaia, and Nebbiolo.  Brian’s first vintage was one barrel of Nebbiolo made in the shed in his yard in Fresno.

Today, Brian Terrizzi makes wine from sites his wife Stephanie farms.  They met at Fresno State where he was enrolled in enology, she in viticulture.  One of her research projects was clones of Nebbiolo. She is also a vineyard manager where she gets to work with Nebbiolo, the winery’s flagship wine. She has done a lot of studies on physical ripeness’, Brian explains. “When it comes to vinification, ‘when to pick’ is the biggest decision that we make. We want the purity of Nebbiolo. Picking at the right time, when there is still acidity and that varietal character is essential for us.’ What’s key in the Terrizzi’s approach is their attention to the specifics of the variety.

In 2012, Giornata moved to Tin City into their own facility right next to Field Recordings. “There were no winery signs and only a couple visitors a month,” Brian remembers. Before then, they had moved production around, and earlier had developed the Broadside Winery in Paso. Eventually he sold his share in Broadside to focus on Gionarta. 

 During 2022, Giornata will release around 20 wines. Production ranges from only 35 cases for some handmade wines to 500 cases per varietal. The total annual production will remain in the range of 4,000 to 5,000 cases per year. Among the early proponents of amphora in winemaking, the winery offers several orange wines.

I was lucky to make my way through quite a few wines during my visit, though not 20. I’ve singled out a few for a detailed review. By the time the Aglianco appeared, I decided to just enjoy the wine without writing notes. The Aglianico French Camp Vineyard in Paso Robles is one of two bottlings of this rare varietal that Giornata produces. This is their cooler site, as the vines sit at 1600 feet of elevation. The grapes were originally planted for one of Bonny Doon’s bottlings and only four-tenths of a hectare remains of Aglianico in this vineyard.

 I drove  away with respect for the way the entire roster consists of wines to be ideal food companions, not hedonistic, high scoring super stars. Even the Sangiovese Rose was a surprising, snappy rendition that would show best with food. It is bottled under the “Etto” label, which is also the name of a line of hand made pasta sold at the Tin City market.

I can’t wait to return to Tin City, maybe to check out the wines from Sans Liege or Brian Benson, or all of the others. And then again hand-made ice cream from Negranti Creamery looked good.

Anyone contemplating a visit should set aside at least 3 days. Here are 4 good reasons to include a stop at Giornata. These reviews were first posted on www.winereviewonline.com 

Giornata “El Pomar” Paso Robles, Barbera 2021 $25

A relatively cool AVA, El Pomar, which benefits from the Templeton Gap’s marine air influence, contains about 2,000 acres of vines, mostly red varieties. Giornata offers one of the few Barberas from the district and has the food-friendly Piedmonte style in mind. The winemaker’s goal is to make “a light-bodied wine that is at once pleasurable but also intriguing.”  Stainless steel fermented and aged in neutral French and Slovenian oak, the wine is bottled a few months after harvest. Very dark in color and medium-bodied, it emphasizes bright berry fruit with light spices in the background. On the palate it delivers assertive black cherry and strawberry flavors and remains highly energized in its flavors and finish thanks to persistent acidity. With little evidence of tannin or oak, it begs to be paired with hearty main courses.  352 cases

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Giornata Adelaida District Paso Robles, Nebbiolo 2019 $50

Located in the northwestern corner of Paso, Adelaida was “discovered” in the 1970s and singled out for its rolling hills and calcareous, limestone soils. Early on it seemed suited to Pinot Noir, but today Its reputation rests with the success of both Bordeaux and rhone varieties. Nowadays Giornata is making a strong case for Italian grapes. Nebbiolo was the winery’s debut wine in 2005 and the learning curve has been steady. This 2019 is sleek and impressive. Fermented with native yeasts, it was aged for two years in neutral oak.  It was also given a lengthy post-fermentation maceration on its skins. As it opens in the glass, this wine shows dark fruit and licorice aromas with a touch of  leather. Medium bodied, it remains lively on the palate and has cherry fruit, light chalky tannins and definite acidity. Overall, it is youthfully tight but beautifully balanced. 

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Giornata, Adelaida District  Paso Robles, Sangiovese 2019 $40

Relying on the Brunello clone, Giornata’s Sangiovese is aged 22 months in neutral French oak and keeps its focus on the grape’s vitality. The winemaker remarks that “foot-stomping and extended maceration facilitate the gentle extraction of color and tannin from the small berried Sangiovese clones that comprise this lot.” Its color is a dark garnet and the aroma is a charming mix of ripe black fruit, tea leaf and dried herbs. On the plate it comes alive with fresh strawberry and savory fruit flavors and the texture is plush. With some tannin poking through in the finish, it remains bright with its balancing acidity. Its lingering finish gets you thinking about food companions.

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Giornata Wines Paso Robles “Gemella”  2019  $65

A Super Tuscan style blend, “Gemella” brings together 64% Sangiovese from the Adelaida District with 30% Merlot from Santa Margarita and a splash of Petit Verdot also from Santa Margarita. Aging was in French oak, 50% new. The Merlot portion “undergoes lengthy extended macerations to refine tannins.” With a hint of violets, the aroma shows lots of black plum fruit and baking spice. On the palate the wine’s texture is rich and smooth with flavors of spice, light oak and a little earthy/gamey.  Balanced and ready to enjoy now, it has the depth to age well for several years.  211 cases produced.

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