Author: robywine, norm roby

My career as a wine journalist/critic began in 1975 when my article about California Petite Sirah was published. My focus remained on California as I edited a monthly wine magazine and then moved on to The Wine Spectator in 1982. Over the following years, my column appeared under the banner of “Stormin’ Norman, and I also wrote articles about wine collectors and wine auctions. Without getting into a year by year bio, let me try to summarize here. During my time with The Spectator which I enjoyed immensely, I taught wine classes at a culinary school and at other venues in San Francisco. Before venturing into wine, teaching was my thing, English Lit and Rhetoric. After The Spectator I was the U.S. Contributor to Decanter Magazine, writing mostly about California, but also expanding into Washington State and Oregon. My Decanter years began in 1992 and after buying a summer home in France in 2000, I traveled throughout France and eventually published articles about St. Emilion, Castillon, Bergerac, Minervois, Roussillon, Luberon, Provence, and Alsace. Also, around 2000, my wife began working for Cousino-Macul in Chile, so we tasted and traveled our way through Chile and, of course, managed to fly over the Andes and explore and taste our way through Argentina. As travel lovers, we have also spent many interesting days visiting the wine regions of Spain, Italy, Portugal, Scicily, Greece, and New Zealand. And to come to a close, I was Director of Winesong, a Charity Wine Auction for 20 years, 1992-2000 that benefitted a local hospital. That brought me in contact with wine collectors and to the auction scene. And finally, I co-authored a book, The Connoisseurs’ Guide to California Wine published by Alfred A. Knopf. It went through 4 editions and sold over 500.000 copies.

Exploring Guadalupe ValleyWines

5 Takeaways from Guadalupe Valley 

Throughout 2023, numerous stories appeared in national media outlets announcing Mexico’s Guadalupe Valley as “the next Napa Valley.” Or Guadalupe as “Mexico’s Napa Valley.”

In one of those annual reader survey pieces, it finished a close second to Walla Walla. 

Travel articles with a romantic getaway theme or wine country destination focus were common.  A google search for Guadalupe Valley wines will show dozens of travel suggestions, tours tips, tour packages, tour guides and itineraries featuring wineries and culinary recommendations. 

 Located about 60 miles south of the US border, or just over an hour’s drive from San Diego, Guadalupe’s wine route has come alive with new wineries, new resorts, boutique hotels, and trendy restaurants. Wine-related income in Guadalupe Valley hovers around $200 million a year.

No longer flying under the radar, Guadalupe Valley secured international recognition in late 2022 by hosting the 43rd annual World congress of vines. Many of its wines win awards and medals in various annual wine competitions. With only 25 wineries existing before 2005, Guadalupe is now home to 150+ wineries, 100 restaurants, 92 hotels and boutiques, and 12 taco stands. A few sources now say there are over 180 wineries. 

Regarding viticulture, Guadalupe Valley is a real anomaly. Standard logic in all textbooks maintains that wine grapes should only be grown within the 30 to 50 latitude. Guadalupe is located at the 21-22 degree latitude and there are over 10,000 acres planted to a wide range of vinifera varieties. 

Defying logic, the mantra in Guadalupe is that it is all about altitude, not latitude. Located at elevations from 500 to 2000 feet above sea level, most vineyards benefit from cooling breezes from the Pacific on one side and the Sea of Cortez on the other. With wide diurnal swings during the summertime, the climate is basically Mediterranean. Or “best described as Mediterranean” as one winemaker explained because being dry and desert-like, it doesn’t fit into any neat category. 

So after postponing a planned visit due to covid, I finally visited this much talked about wine valley in Northern Baja. Research before the visit entailed reading many of the feature stories and, of course, tasting as many Guadalupe wines that were available during my stay in Cabo San Lucas.

My vinous version of the Baja 1000 began by departing the totally screwed up city of Tijuana in a crappy rental car that barely made it out of town. Later in the day we were welcomed to Guadalupe by rain that challenged the car’s wipers. That’s right, rain in Guadalupe Valley is about as common as rain in the Sahara.

That rain was a great omen or set up for a series of unexpected experiences that followed when visiting wineries, tasting wines, and getting a feel for this most unusual wine region. The rain made the sandy roads to the wineries even more challenging to navigate with deep potholes filled with water along with rocks and a few chickens. But holding on tight to the wheel we visited the region. What follows are takeaways from five wineries that capture the uniqueness of Guadalupe as not only an emerging wine destination but also an exciting wine producing region.  

“This can’t be Nebbiolo,” I tactfully mentioned to the Vinedos Malagon hostess. It was deep garnet, concentrated, with ripe flavors and some tannin. She brought over the bottle and yes it was Nebbiolo. I shouldn’t have been so surprised since the previous wine was Malagon’s Grenache, also unusually rich. She explains that the winery has access to Grenache planted by Russian immigrants in the 1940s. That’s right, the vines are at least 70 years old. And as for Nebbiolo, it was said to be brought into Guadalupe long ago but identity tags were never found to verify its DNA. Well, that was my first visit.

#1 Takeaway: Prepare for Guadalupe wines that aren’t typical and for wines made from odd, old varieties, old vines.

Malagon was founded in 1997 when only a dozen wineries were operating in Guadalupe and very few wine varieties besides Grenache and Nebbiolo were planted. Pedro Domecq opened a winery in 1972 but like many of the distillers who arrived earlier, it favored Palomino and Colombard in the early years. Also in the 1970s Jim Concannon and others from California visited and introduced then popular varieties such as Chenin Blanc, Petite Sirah, Zinfandel, Barbera, Cabernet, Carignane, and the once popular Ruby Cabernet. The latter variety is a key component in Domecq’s XA red and Petite Sirah is one of Cetto’s most popular and attractive wines. 

Today the Valley’s wineries reflect a balance of an international cast of characters and local families. Those established varieties attracted foreign investors such as the Henri Lurton Medoc family. It seems telling that Bodegas Henri Lurton’s flagship wines from Guadalupe are Nebbiolo and Chenin Blanc. 

Next stop was Casa Magoni whose wines I had enjoyed prior to the visit. In the new tasting room, white wines were first offered and they were not the typical blends. Magoni poured a Chardonnay and Fiano blend named “Manaz.” Also, another white brings together Chardonnay and Vermentino which is just as impressive. Among the reds, the Sangiovese-Cabernet is excellent, but the most unusual tasted was labeled Origen 43 which combines Montepulciano, Aglianico, Canaiolo, Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon. All those varieties were established 16 years ago. But, of course, Magoni makes a Nebbiolo which is excellent.

Turns out that Camillo Magoni, who studied Enology and Viticulture degree from the Enologica a Di Alba in Piedmont, Italy was invited by the Cetto winery to work in the cellars. After 40 years he left to establish Casa Magoni where he introduced many Italian varieties as well as others from France. Today with more than 100 different grape varieties on 278 hectares, this is the largest experimental vineyard in Guadalupe and all of Mexico. 

#2 Takeaway

Today with over 100 wine varieties being grown, some of Guadalupe’s finest wines are rare combinations and unique blends. There’s the Red from SantoTomas that is made from 34% Mission, 33% Tempranillo, and 33% Carignan. I love Emerve’s “Isabella” which brings together Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Viognier in a bright, full bodied style. El Cielo’s 2020 Blanc de Blancs consists of Sauvignon Blanc and Chenin Blanc with a good dose of Palomino and Chardonnay. 

So be prepared to encounter wines with fanciful proprietary names derived from the planets, the stars, children, family pets, nicknames, whatever. 

Moving on, I finally visited a new winery unknown to me but one I drove by several times: Emerve.

Many of the new wineries are locally owned and started by home winemakers or by cellar workers moving on after apprenticing at one of the big wineries. That door opened In 2004-2005 when Hugo D’Acosta who studied at Montpellier, France, and the Agrarian University of Turin, Italy, organized La Escuelita, a school teaching local farmers and families the fundamentals of winemaking and cellar procedures. The school also functions today as a cooperative, providing the necessary equipment to growers and future winemakers to make wine. 

Today, Emerve, which was one of those wineries,  draws from 18 ha and produces around 5,000 cases a year. In addition to a lovely Rose of Cabernet, Emerve is best known for its proprietary blends. “Isabella” brings together Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Viognier mentioned earlier. There’s a red Bordeaux named “Los Nietos” and another red blend, “Armonia de Tintos,” a blend of Merlot, Cabernet, Syrah and Cabernet Franc. That cuvee was aged for 8 months in a combination of French and Hungarian oak.  It is much more than a simple red. And just for a little variation there’s a 100% Shiraz that’s bottle aged for 5 years before its release.

#3 Takeaway

While the top 3 wineries of Cetto, Santo Thomas, and Bodegas Pedro Domecq produce 80% of wines from Guadalupe Valley, there are 100 or more small family owned businesses offering a wide variety of high quality wines. And the wines are often unique.

Next up in my learning journey, Casta de Vinos

Whether it was sheer luck or fate, my visit to Casta was truly eye opening. Opened in 2010, Casta is an authentic mom & Pop family winery with Sergio Castañeda as owner/winemaker and Claudia, his wife, as director. With an annual output of 4,500 cases, Casta makes 12 wines, 10 red. The 2018 “Domina,” a 100% Merlot exudes charm in an elegant style, and the 2019 “Cirio,” a Cabernet Sauvignon and Mourvedre blend is big with multi- layered flavors. “Casta Tinta, “ a Bordeaux blend, could easily be mistaken for a young Medoc. Another amazing accomplishment, the 2020 Syrah is heavenly and stylishly refined for a young Syrah. I also liked the Petit Verdot. Clearly, the winemaking is top notch and shows a subtle use of small oak and tannin management that makes this one a genuine superstar.

#4 Takeaway

Not only are there many new wineries, Guadalupe is a paradise for anyone who loves to explore and discover previously unknown wineries. Or one that opened the week earlier.

Tuscany also has a strong foothold here thanks to the Paoloni family.  Born in Tuscany, Paolo Paoloni left his post as an Enologist at the Perugia University to manage the Valle Redondo wine company in Aguascalientes, Mexico. After several years with Valle Redondo, Paoloni purchased 38 hectares in the Toros Pintos section of the Valle de Guadalupe. 

If anyone doubts the uniqueness of Guadalupe, well the wines that were presented at the Paoloni/Villa Montefiori winery will erase all doubts.  First came the dramatic 2020 “Ross del Valle” made from 100% Montepulciano with amazing concentration. It is the first mono-Montepulciano from Mexico. Even more exciting was the 2019 Nebbiolo, a dark colored, deeply flavored version, aged for 15 months in French oak. Then the house speciality is Nero d’Avola, and the 2018 aged 12 months in oak is stunning for its depth and layers of flavors.

#5 Takeaway

Located on a steep hillside, Paoloni’s vineyards look beautifully maintained, indicating that grape growing here is as good as anywhere. Overall, the yields work out to be slim by Napa’s standards, estimated as between 1.2 to 2 tons per acre. With little water available, irrigation is not excessive with many vines being dry farmed.

 I heard during my visit  and have also read that farming practices are moving toward sustainability and organic methods.  Carrodilla is said to be the first certified organic and biodynamic vineyard in Mexico. More recently, Santos Brujos which makes a lovely Tempranillo has earned its stars as a certified biodynamic vineyard. 

So, I’ll stop here after noting that despite what you may be thinking, Guadalupe Valley wines are showing up in more and more US markets. That was reinforced a few weeks ago when looking over the shelves of Desert Wine, a small retailer in Palm Desert, there were several Paoloni wines and a few others.  

Thankfully, in 2024 you might not have to travel along those bad dirt roads to explore Guadalupe Valley wines. Check out  the list of wineries available and which states they are sold in at La Competencia Imports in Napa, Same goes for Tozi Imports on the East Coast, Nossa Imports in Arizona and Beso imports in Washington. LMA imports in San Diego specializes in wholesale to restaurants. 

And one more thing about those rough, unpaved roads: don’t expect any improvements soon. Arguing that bad roads attract good tourists and good roads will appeal to the loud, rude, sloppy wine drinkers who will ruin the character of the Valley, a powerful resistance group has been organized to control growth.

In other words, they don’t want Guadalupe to become the “next Napa Valley,”

Exploring the Rhones Less Traveled

Having long been intrigued by Rhone wines, I regularly check out theTablas Creek Vineyards blog. A recent post mentioning the availability of Terret Noir and Bourboulenc stopped me in my tracks. Of all the varieties permitted to grow in Chateauneuf-du-Pape these two were total mysteries to me.

Never one to pass up an opportunity to try a new wine and maybe learn something along the way, I reached out to Jason Hass.  As always, he was helpful and informative and kindly made it possible for me to taste these two new Tablas Creek wines. 

 In wildly different ways, both the Bourboulenc and the Terret Noir were exciting new experiences. That set me off on a mission to explore other lesser known Rhone varieties, those usually dismissed or ignored as blenders, to see what they might offer as varietal wines.

But first, here are my notes on those two amazing wines that had me saddling up for this journey:

Tablas Creek Vineyard Adelaida Hills District Paso Robles Bourboulenc 2022 $40

From 2/3rd of an acre, this is the winery’s 4th Bourboulenc and it is wonderfully unusual. Medium straw in color, it offers an intriguing aromatic mix of orange rind, apricot and lychee nut. Surprisingly rich and round on the palate, it combines orange and citrus flavors with a hint of stone fruit. The texture is rich, and then it finishes with a rush of lemony flavors and bright acidity. All of this is to be enjoyed in a refreshing wine with only 12% alcohol. To summarize: lovely aromas, terrific texture, mouthwatering flavors and youthful acidity holding it together. A great food wine. What’s not to like?  94

Tablas Creek Vineyard Adelaida Hills District Paso Robles Terret Noir 2021 $40

Originally from the Languedoc, Terret Noir has seldom been made on its own, most often blended with Grenache or its fellow family members,Terret Gris and Terret Blanche. Tablas Creek bottled 70 cases in 2021 and offers it at the winery.  Once poured, it has an unusual light red color that sets it apart from most red wines. The aroma is also strikingly unusual, neither berry-ish nor overtly fruity, it offers a pretty floral nose of roses and orange blossom. While light medium bodied at best, it delivers refreshing flavors reminiscent of red currants that are sustained and persistent. Gentle, fresh and lively in the finish, it is all together pleasant and refreshing. It is a fun party or aperitif style red. Fun is good, right? 92

My takeaway after trying these two unusual wines was a suspicion that there probably are other lesser-known Rhone blending varieties that might be worthwhile looking into. And sure enough, by continuing along the Rhone road less traveled, I encountered four other Rhone varieties that also have much to offer as stand alone wines and, best of all, these four are being made by several key California winemakers, a few original Rhone Rangers and some new, younger folks dedicated to Rhone wines.

The four wines are two whites, Marsanne and Roussanne and two reds, Cinsaut and Counoise. Grenache Gris was on my list, but not many are available. Picpoul wines are enjoying a well-deserved surge, but are not as unusual as are Roussanne and Marsanne.

 Marsanne is hardly a newcomer since Bob Lindquist who founded Qupe, made California’s first back in 1987. But it is still usually downplayed as part of a blend with Viognier or Roussanne. And while there are many attractive blends now coming from Australia and Santa Barbera, on its own, Marsanne is still not that common. 

And from what I’ve experienced at this early stage, I can only wonder why. Marsanne is, afterall, the white grape of Hermitage fame. The 2022 Marsanne from Starfield Vineyards in El Dorado is a fantastic, complex and stunning version and it was a great wine to begin the journey. 

Starfield Vineyards El Dorado Marsanne 2022 $34

Aged for 6 months in neutral French oak, this Marsanne is attractive now but has all it needs to age long and well. On the nose it comes across with ripe peach and nectarine fruitiness with citrus as well. Then on the palate which is plush and round, it has vibrant flavors of orange rind

and cloves with minerality as well. Solid and well-integrated, it continues the ripe peach, apricot theme in its lengthy finish. Overall, it is concentrated but so lively it invites a second glass. 165 cases made. 94

After that re-introduction to Marsanne, I reached out to Bob Lindquist who sold Qupe in 2018 but has never stopped making Marsanne. As he explains,”Marsanne and Roussanne are near and dear to me, and I continue to make both of them under my Lindquist Family label.”  He adds, “In 1986 I got Marsanne budwood from Randall Grahm and grafted over some own-rooted Cabernet vines at a small vineyard just outside of Los Olivos called the Ibarra-Young Vineyard.”

Marsanne ages well, Lindquist noted, and his vintages from the early 90s are still showing well he added. As for style, he explains:” I make Marsanne in a lighter, fresher style, all in neutral barrels and bottled after about 8-9 months.”

“Lighter” it may be, but his current release is most attractive:

Lindquist Family Vineyard Edna Valley, Sawyer Lindquist Vineyard Marsanne 2020 $38

All of the fruit is grown in this the Demeter certified biodynamic vineyard.  Yellow with green tint, this wine is medium bodied with lots of youthful character. Aromatically, it combines nectarine and white peach fruit along with some almond and lemony accents. Smooth and refreshing on the palate, it has good acidity for a balanced impression and concludes with lively fruit and a crisp finish. 92

At the end of our conversation, Lindquist added this zinger:”I think Roussanne makes the more important and complex wine…I make mine very much in the same style as Chardonnay.”  

 It turns out Roussanne is a favorite of many other winemakers. Bill Easton of Terre Rouge who makes exquisite Syrah and Viognier chimes in with this: “Roussanne is the most serious white Rhône grape. It reaches its apex with age – slow oxidation.. But it is not easy to grow.” The team at Truchard in Napa simply say “it is a challenge.” And then John Alban the unchallenged champion of Viognier adds this: “There are legions of whites that one can make for all kinds of commercial reasons, even if the resulting wines are less than compelling, but Roussanne is for people you love.”

After tasting the latest from Terre Rouge and Lindquist, I can understand the appeal. Easton offers a perfect summary of what a newcomer will encounter:  “American palates are not accustomed to classic Roussanne characteristics: Straw golden color; with exquisite quince, honey-nut, and beeswax aromas.”  To that I’d add exotic pineapple fragrances, rich viscosity, and depth unique among white wines. It is definitely a white on steroids. The Terre Rouge Roussanne is given several extra years of bottle aging before being released to the market.

The name “Roussanne” relates to the French word for russet which explains the wine’s dark color. In the early phase of the Rhone Ranger period, what was thought to be Roussanne turned out to be Viognier. The true Roussanne was eventually introduced by Tablas Creek, so most of the current plantings began in the late 1990s. 

There’s one major exception: Terre Rouge. Its Roussanne clone is unique, originating from a Chave family parcel on the hill at Hermitage. It is the real deal and you can get a good feel for what Roussanne is capable of if you are fortunate, as I was, to taste the 2011 Terre Rouge and the 2021 Lindquist Family. See the tasting notes at the end. 

Cinsaut is another Rhone that was misidentified and that’s one likely reason why it was long overlooked. It turns out that in Lodi the Bechthold Vineyard which was planted in 1886 is actually the oldest Cinsaut vineyard in the world. Until 2003 when UC Davis proved by DNA testing that it was Cinsaut, the grape was believed to be Black Malvoisie. And it was sold to home winemakers.

Often spelled Cinsault, the grape is used these days to produce Roses or in blends. It is well-represented in South Africa likely due to its parenting role in Pinotage. It was not planted at Tablas Creek until  2017, and for now the winery suggests “it will be a useful blending partner to higher-alcohol, more tannic red grapes, and it makes for delicious lighter reds on its own.”  

Thanks to Holly’s Hill Vineyard in El Dorado, my most recent encounter with a varietal Cinsaut is highly memorable and is a delicious red. Here is my note:

Holly’s Hill Vineyard El Dorado Cinsaut 2020

Based on its color and the initial sniff, my instinct says this could be a Cotes du Rhone Villages. A real good one. But then after the initial taste, it comes across with subtle, but charming flavors that don’t match anything in my experience. Though Cinsaut is classified as a lightweight, this is no such thing. Its bright, fresh cranberry aroma mingles with spices and black tea, and the flavors are full of fresh picked dark cherries and an earthy, leathery back note.  Balanced, with light tannin it finishes on a slightly tart note along with lingering berries. Lovely! 93

Starfield Vineyards, also based in the Sierra Foothills, impressed me earlier with its 2019 Cinsaut. It turns out one of Randall Grahm’s most recent obsessions is with Cinsaut, so he had lots to say when approached.

“But let me tell you why I’m so enamored of Cinsault…. By restricting yields aggressively – via water restriction, bunch and cluster thinning – one can actually produce a very elegant wine of heady fragrance and beautiful color.  For me, this is the classical  (you will forgive the expression) conundrum of how to produce an elegant, complex, let’s call it “continental” wine in a warm and dry Mediterranean climate.”

While Cinsaut seems to be gaining in traction as a Rose and as a red wine in South Africa, that leaves Counoise as the ultimate, unwanted red grape on the Chateauneuf-du-Pape team. It ripens late in the season which makes it unappealing in Southern France. Only 60 acres are planted in California today. 

 But like the last player drafted in pro football, it too could become the next star. Tablas Creek has 6 acres and bottles it as a single varietal from time to time.  Fess Parker offers an excellent Counoise under its Epiphany label which impressed me a few years back. Others now on my radar are the new Counoise from Frick in Dry Creek Valley, Adelaida from Paso Robles and the 2019 Prie Cellars in Lodi. 

 However, in my most recent experience,  Counoise was well-represented by Holly’s Hill and that winery seems ready for stardom based on its 2020. As winemakers Carrie and Josh Bendick explain, when their various new wines were tasted every January, the Counoise lot always stood out. Eventually, the winery converted some Syrah to Counoise. It is difficult to grow, though, they add, because it ripens unevenly and you always have to focus on its color. 

Holly’s Hill Vineyard El Dorado Counoise 2020

Excellent, deep color with an aroma of raspberries, lovely baking spices and floral notes. On the palate it offers vibrant flavors of spices and berries. The subtle floral component adds intrigue and there’s plenty of crisp acidity keeping it nicely woven together. Tannins are light and smooth. And the finish is fresh and long with spices such as cinnamon and clove. 

It is reminiscent of a Moulin-A-Vent in weight and direct appeal but it offers more layers as a result of the floral note and baking spices. 94

As I begin wrapping this journey up, it hits me that this Counoise like the other three wines is a food-friendly wine. Both the new and older Roussanne reviewed here were definitely serious food wines.

Lindquist Family Vineyards Santa Maria Valley Bien Nacido Hillside Roussanne 2021 

From 5 acres on a west facing hillside,planted to the Tablas Creek clone between 1997-2000, Lindquist has made Roussanne from this block since 2000. It is aged on the lees in one year-old barrels for a year and then in neutral oak for 6 months. Bottled unfined and unfiltered, it is light yellow and with aeration, opens up to show pineapple, beeswax, and honey aromas with some oak. Big, generous palate, silky texture with deep flavors of ripe apples, hazelnuts and honey.

A little leesy, creamy texture and a long aftertaste of lemon curd and oak toast. 94

Domaine de la Terre Rouge Sierra Foothills  Monarch Mine Vineyard Roussanne 2011

In 2011, the crop ran into mildew problems and the yield was down by 80%. Following whole cluster pressing, the juice was barrel fermented and the wine aged on the lees. Beginning with its deep golden color, this wine was a unique experience. Rich and deeply concentrated with great viscosity, it delivers ripe pear flavors with some floral notes. Maturing nicely, but still has plenty of life ahead of it. As for a rating, how about rare and wonderful.

All of the wineries singled out here sell their wines direct, so for those wanting to jump aboard and continue the journey into the unknown Rhones, here are the contacts:

www.starfieldvineyards.com

www.hollyshill.com

www.lindquistfamilywines.com

www.terrerougewines.com

So that’s it. Oh, hold on, just got a late breaking news alert from Tablas Creek about another variety:

“Vaccarèse. There are just over 10 acres planted in Chateauneuf, just a little more than that elsewhere in France, and none, until we brought in ours, elsewhere in the world. But we believe it shows great potential, with lovely dark color and floral and herbal aromatics. It’s been so good that it’s already playing a significant role in the Esprit de Tablas.”

Well, now that sounds worth exploring on another trip!

Joe Dobbes: Veteran Winemaker Journeys Back to His Roots

Check out http://www.iterumwines.com for wine club info

And for my reviews: winereviewonline.com

At the Oregon Wine Experience’s awards ceremony last August, when accepting the Best of Show White Wine award for a 2021 Chardonnay, Blakeslee Vineyard’s owner first thanked everyone and then casually noted, “I didn’t make the wine. Joe Dobbes did.” That caught everyone’s attention. Joe who?  

Oh, that Joe. The veteran winemaker who also excels as a brand builder. The one behind “Wines by Joe,” a best selling brand found on many supermarket shelves which he developed simultaneously with his high-end Dobbes Family Estate Wines. He later added ”Jovino” as a label for Willamette Valley Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris produced exclusively for restaurateurs. And later created a custom bottling facility in Dundee where he made wines for a dozen or more other wineries. Yes, that Joe.

After adding canned wines under the “Joe to Go” name, he guided his wine company on an upward course and it grew to become the third largest in Oregon by sales. As of  2018, he explained, “We owned 214 acres of vineyard and benefited from the work of more than 30 full-time, dedicated employees, as well as dozens of part-time and seasonal.” That success caught the attention of investors and in that year Bacchus Capital Management acquired 50% interest in 2018.

I met Joe and his wife, Patricia at that awards ceremony. After chatting briefly, he handed me his card which read “Founder, Proprietor & Winemaker” of Iterum Wines. “Iterum” roughly translates as “once more, afresh” and again, as in starting over again. 

A brand from him with no mention of “Joe” in the name is by itself newsworthy.  A few days later I began firing questions his way and I learned  that  to him “Iterum is all about getting back to my roots and being highly focused.” He is doing what he always wanted to do: getting dirty in the vineyards and focusing on high-end wines. 

There’s also a circle on the label to convey that Dobbes has come full circle with Iterum Wines and is back to where he began. 

His father was an amateur winemaker, and he grew up on the family’s large farm which included a vineyard planted in the early 1980s. In the mid-1980s, Dobbes apprenticed at Wiengut Erbhof Tesch, in the German Nahe region and in Burgundy first with Christope Roumier of Domaine G. Roumier and then with Dominique Lafon of Domaine des Comtes Lafon. Returning to Oregon, he worked with Elk Cove Vineyards, Ken Wright Cellars and others before becoming head winemaker at Willamette Valley Vineyards from 1996 to 2001. 

In 2002, he noted, “I started Wine By Joe with a small amount of money in my back pocket, a lot of experience and passion, and a sufficient ignorance of what I was up against.” 

Starting over in 2019, Joe, it is fair to assume, not only had much more money in his back pocket but also an impressive resume to show as a winemaker for 34 or so vintages. Also, along the way he worked with numerous vineyards within Oregon for both his own brands and for others. But he didn’t rush to start anew. When asked about his options then, he explained:

“I essentially took a two year winemaking sabbatical after the 2016 vintage and 34 overall vintages.  It was refreshing in a lot of ways, and allowed me to really think about who, and what I wanted to be in my next winemaking act.  I had started Dundee Mobile Bottlers in 2017; however, I never intended to give up on making wine. In 2018 we bought our 21 acre dream estate from which I had made wine from in previous years for previous owners, as well as for Dobbes Family Estate. I never intended to give up on making wine. It was only a matter of when. The when for Iterum Wines ended up being the 2019 vintage.”

The “dream estate”  is the Orchard House Estate located near Salem, the 21-acre Eola-Amity Hills property contained a vineyard started by Greg Cost. The first six acres of Pinot Noir were planted in 2000, followed by Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc plantings in 2016 and 2021. The vineyard now totals 11.98 acres. It was a “dream” for him because, he adds, “I made wine for the Cost family for several years starting in 2005, so I had a strong connection and understanding of the site. I then leased the vineyard through 2012 for Dobbes Family Estate.”

He bought it in 2018, and it came with clones 114 and 115 of Pinot Noir and clones 76 and 548 of Chardonnay.

With Dobbes Family, he was making 8 different Pinot Noirs, often from single vineyards, and now with Iterum, he has added a new twist to single vineyard bottlings: single clone wines from single vineyards. Part of that dream he mentioned about his vineyard was that for Chardonnay, “the two clones that I would have planted were 76 and 548, which was crazy,” Dobbes says. 

I threw out the question of how he ranked the various clones and his thoughts on the market for single clone Pinot and Chardonnay.

“When I think about all the years of working with many different clones, I would have to say that one of my favorite wines I have produced, and continue to produce from a particular vineyard is made from two of the original heritage clones that were planted here in Oregon – Pommard and Wadenswil. Every clone that I work with from any particular vineyard is always fermented separately. I will have enough fruit of each of these clones this year to bottle the clones separately.”

 And he continues, “My Orchard House Vineyard estate presents a wonderful opportunity to compare the red fruited 115 Pinot Noir to the blue fruited 114.  The single clone bottlings from the same vineyard source produced by the same hand off of the same land, is the ultimate opportunity to geek out. Our customers absolutely love this.”

On the subject of geeky opportunities, I noted that Joe was the first in Oregon to make a Viognier and a Grenache Blanc. More recently, he has joined with a small band of winemakers intent on making a case for Sauvignon Blanc. He is on record calling Sauvignon Blanc “a world class wine for Willamette Valley.”  So what’s behind that remark?

“Yes, indeed I have been quoted stating that I believe Sauvignon Blanc can be a world-class 

 wine from Oregon just as we are known for Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Sauvignon Blanc ranges from being low acid, low fruit and herbaceous to crisp, zesty and fresh and then of course there is Sancerre. 

I love the character in the richness of Sancerre and also appreciate the fresh zestiness of New Zealand. My first Sauvignon Blanc produced from the 2021 vintage under the Iterum brand was made with the advanced intention of a style that is a combination of both regions, but of course is and reflects Oregon.”

Iterum is indeed a fresh start for Joe. That first estate Sauvignon Blanc has yet to be released. But the winery is marketing a 2021 Sauvignon Blanc from the Oak Grove Vineyard, a vineyard he first worked with in 1989.  This Sauvignon is part of an “Old Friends” Collection of wines from vineyards he has worked with over the years. Currently, there are 4 different Pinots under this moniker.

But to return to single clone wines, he does not see them necessarily as a trend-setter because, he explains, “The single clonal bottlings from the same vineyard source is not something that everybody is able to do, and they also present additional sales work, so I think this is why you don’t see this very often.”

So what does he hope to accomplish and add to his resume through Iterum’s wines? 

“I think at this time it is difficult to be completely unique or a first in the industry. However, I will refer back to my goals, and objectives for Sauvignon Blanc, by helping the cause for Sauvignon Blanc from Oregon. My goals and objectives for Iterum are to produce world class, stylistic, delicious and highly regarded wines to the point where the brand is eventually considered to be the equivalent of a three star Michelin restaurant rating.”

Well, based on tasting the inaugural Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and the two single clone Pinot Noirs, I would say he is off to a great new beginning. 

Labor Day Sales: We Got A Winner

Just when I was about to give up on Labor Day wine sales, this message arrived:

“Up to 80% off on 250+ wines”

Well, not all wines are 80% off, but there were many excellent deals. The big surprise was wines under $10, but I found many to like for under $20. 

 The winner is  www.wineExpress.com

Here are are my choices for best deals:

2020 Barossa Valley Shiraz $7.47

2020 Château Suau Rose, Bordeaux $7.47

2 from Lodi:

2019 Judd’s Hill Zinfandel $15.47

2018 Berghad Cabernet Sauvignon $13.47

2 Oregon Pinot Noir:

2018 Lazy River Yamhill Carlton, $17.47

2018 Belle Fiori, Rogue Valley $10.47

2 Best Reds:

2019 Chateau Bourdieu, Bordeaux $12.47

2019 McBride Sisters Central Coast $14.47

Browse the list to find those you prefer. Many big names with big price tags are included.

Shipping is free on any 12 bottle order.

My Overview of wineExpress.com

wineExpress.com tries to balance “value and service” which suggests it is neither a giant warehouse nor a down-and-dirty discount site.  It is the exclusive online wine shop partner of The Wine Enthusiast catalog and website. So it is well-financed and has an excellent facility for storage and shipping.

It really leads the online field in big-named wines like Gaja, Dominus, Sassicaia, Shafer, Caymus Special Select, and, yes Perrier-Jouet and Dom…all slightly discounted with the Sassicaia 25% below retail. 

The site works through the usual sorting procedures with click on searches by variety, price and region. It also offers several wine club options and gift packages.

But, and this is interesting. It also sorts the Labor Day list by “Woman Owned” and “Minority Owned.”

One special touch is a series of videos taking you through tastings that are conducted by Josh Farrell, its Wine Director.

He often runs through the daily wine special which can then be purchased. He is one excellent swirler, BTW, and he encourages decanting and/or aerating young wine.

You can learn a lot about judging wine by watching a few of his videos.

And throughout the year this site continues to offer several good value wines under $20.

Walking the Walk at Troon

www.winereviewonline.com 

http://www.troonvineyard.com

“Organic and biodynamic are not the same ” was the first lesson brought home during a recent visit to Troon Vineyard in the Applegate Valley of Southern Oregon. It turned out to be the first of many new things learned during this eye-opening visit.  Later in the day, Garett Long, who’s in charge of  developing and tending the vineyards and all other living things, acknowledged that when it comes to understanding biodynamics, “a healthy skepticism is understandable.” 

Allowing him to assume my skepticism was “healthy,”  I, like many consumers and wine industry folks who believe in sustainability and oppose pesticides, become just a little skeptical when it comes to the buried cowhorn ritual and connecting farming to phases of the moon. BTW: the second thing I learned is that the cowhorn rituals are part of what is known as “preps,” various ways to reinvigorate the soil.

Those wacky sounding rituals are key to Demeter certified biodynamic which was developed as most lovers know by its founder, Rudolph Steiner of Austria. After a century-long slog, the movement is growing and today about 100 wineries in the US and an estimated 500 in Europe are Demeter Certified. Biodynamics, in a nutshell, “takes a holistic approach to regenerative agriculture and focuses on minimum outside intrusion. And one key is that unlike organic farming, it emphasizes naturally produced compost and biodiversity.” In other words, it is all about soils and manure. And insects, bugs, wild animals and native plants.

At the end of the walk through the vineyards and gardens, I was convinced what Troon is creating is all based upon solid scientific research, much of it recent. Though I’m still not buying into the moon stuff, the preps are also based on science. For example prep #507 consists of  Valerian which is in “a liquid preparation that stimulates the phosphorus processes in the soil and forms a sort of warm, protective blanket around the compost, like the skin of an organism. It also has a secondary role in regulating magnesium and selenium.”  Biodynamic Preparation 506, I’m sure you are anxious to hear, is made from dandelions which grow on the Troon farm.

Admittedly, science can be boring to a non-scientist and there’s not much romance associated with composting and manure. But Troon truly has its manure together.  Troon is not only certified organic and biodynamic but is now also Regenerative Organic certified. There are only two wineries making that claim today; the other is Tablas Creek. Both emphasize Rhone varieties which may be a coincidence but that caught my attention which was getting a little weak during the walk through the vineyard with what seemed like non-stop scientific talk.

Long, who holds a Master’s in Soils and Biogeochemistry from UC Davis, employs the “five principles of soil health” at Troon: “composting, avoiding soil disturbance, keeping living roots growing, maximizing diversity, and integrating livestock.” Nowadays, Long adds that he is really “pushing the cover crop envelope.”

Troon, which was founded in 1972 and fell on hard times, was acquired in 2017 by Denise and Bryan White of Arlington, Texas. Soon the first steps were taken in an amazing long term transformation. The estate consists of 100 acres, and 50 have been recently replanted to vines. It also has vegetable and herb gardens, a large lake, and sheep, chickens, dogs and bees.  A new garden is devoted entirely to native plants, all planted from seed. Demeter requires that 10 acres be set aside for biodiversity, but they have exceeded that at Troon. 

Located in the Applegate Valley of Southern Oregon, Troon is cutting edge and exploring new approaches to winemaking as it redefines a traditional winery and vineyard into an independent and diverse farm.

 A solar barn is being built to eventually supply all electrical needs. Tractors and other farming machines will soon also be electric. Zero carbon footprint is the goal.

Most of the vines are head trained and the goal is to eventually dry farm all 50 acres. As for their gardens, the philosophy is a“no till gardening with a seven year crop rotation.”  And the emphasis everywhere is on diversity.

Looking around at the vineyards, gardens, orchards, and compost heaps, I’m now convinced these are not science nerds, I’m in the presence of talented, forward thinking agriculturists and winemakers. So far, nothing about the cycles of the moon from anyone.

When it comes to wines, Troon aims to capture a sense of place. In my earlier reviews of Troon’s Tannat and Vermentino posted several weeks ago, both wines came across as unusual and exciting interpretations. But everything is just beginning to be put into place, and the estate vineyards are just coming into production.  

Described as a transitional growing region between the Willamette Valley and Napa, Applegate Valley enjoys an elevation of 1,200-1,400 feet, surrounded by the Siskiyou Mountains and 60 miles from the Pacific Ocean. As I learned, Troon’s vineyards are located on the Kubli Bench, and this site is warmer and dryer than the Willamette Valley, but cooler and wetter than Napa. “It has a shorter growing season than Napa, but gets 70 minutes more of sunshine daily and no fog. As the days get shorter, sugar accumulation stops, resulting in fully ripened fruit and lower alcohol wines.”  Four different soil types have been identified, and while no surprise to hear Syrah thrives on the gravely sites, Vermentino has proven to fare well on clay soils.

Moving on to current wines. 

Winemaking is handled by Nate Winters who previously worked for Archery Summit. Armed with scientific information, he too follows the biodynamic approach. His explanation of the benefits of amphora and concrete eggs was spot on.  He does not add commercial yeasts, acids, sugar, tannins or sulfur during the fermentation process which uses native yeasts. And all wines go through spontaneous malolactic fermentation. And yes, they are bottled unfined and unfiltered, but a little SO2 is added at the time of bottling. (And no, nothing about bottling being timed with  the moon.)

The winery is a mix of standard small stainless tanks and an oak barrel room, and opposite the barrels is a row of clay amphora and one concrete egg. The oak is mostly French but none of the wines are aged in new oak. Though armed with the latest equipment, Winters explains for maximum extraction of some wines, the grapes are foot stomped. For the varieties used for Amber or orange wines,” we performed extra leaf removal on these vines in the vineyard to allow for more sun penetration into the fruiting zone, further developing the skin tannins of the grapes.” 

Favoring whites and Roses, the current wine roster is a mix of the unusual and the conventional. There’s a pet-nat and an orange wine, and usual blends named Druid’s White and Druid’s Red. “Glou-Glou,” a grenache made by carbonic maceration, is strange. But the Syrah and Tannat are both impressive.  Whites relying on Vermentino are early standouts. Neither Chardonnay nor Pinot Noir seem to be in the game plan. The most recent plantings are to Negrette and Tiburon. Unfamiliar with Tiburon, I learned it plays an important role in Provence Roses.

 My guess is that with vine maturity, Troon will add more red wines to the mix.

Wines Tasted, posted at www.winereviewonline.com 

2022 Troon Vineyard Kubil Bench Rose, Applegate Valley $25

Made from young vineyards coming into production, this Rose brings together

Mourvèdre, Cinsault, Counoise, Carignan, and Negrette, all farmed to make rosé. 

Light pink in color, the wine is a charming, refreshing Rose with berry and spice flavors, a silky texture and good acidity. Modest in alcohol and crisp in the finish, it holds up well over time and is thoroughly enjoyable.

93

2021 Troon Vineyard Applegate Valley  Druid’s White  $25

Labeled “Druid’s Fluid” until recently, this most recent white blend has a lot to offer.  Made from 65% Vermentino, 22% Marsanne and 13% Roussanne, all harvested over a 10-day period. The Vermentino was foot trodden before its barrel fermentation. The time in used oak for primary and secondary fermentation averaged 8 months. 

With flavors of  green apple, lemon zest and light spice, this wine’s appeal is mostly about texture and good balancing acidity. The flavors are clean orchard fruit (mainly pear) and the finish is vibrant. 

90

2022  Troon Vineyard  Applegate Valley “Piquette”  $25

If you too don’t know what a piquette is, here’s the background: “It is  frugal farmer fizz,

a type of natural wine that has been made for hundreds, if not thousands, of years. Those frugal farmers wasted nothing. They would add water to the juice and skins left after pressing the

wines they sell to make wine for themselves and their workers.” This Troon 2022 is more like a Pet-Nat with good body, alcohol and flavor. But it is still unusual being made from rehydrated skins from several varieties, mainly reds destined for Roses. Winemaker Walls adds:””the remaining skins are rehydrated overnight in the press where it is pressed again the following morning.Then a day or two later, the next lot of fruit comes into the winery that will also end up in the piquette.” And on and on.

The result is a wine with an orange tinge and very fruity with pleasing slightly fizzy flavors. It captures some apple and fresh herbs which remain vibrant on the palate, but in an easygoing manner.

90

2022 Troon Vineyard “Kubli Bench Amber” Applegate Valley $35

This one falls within the orange wine category and is made from 70% Vermentino, 25% Viognier, and 5% Roussanne. Each is fermented separately in open-top fermentors located outdoors, typically with about 30% whole-cluster inclusion. Fermentations proceed spontaneously with native yeasts, The Vermentino, grapes were foot tread before being loaded into the press, leading to a bit more extraction before being settled and transferred to neutral french oak barrels for fermentation. 

Light orange in color, this is a highly aromatic wine with a silky smooth texture and flavors that expand nicely on the palate. With discernible acidity in the background, it finishes long.  Despite being easy to drink on its own, it pairs well with food, including blue cheese.

92

2020 Troon Vineyard Applegate Valley Estate Syrah $35.

About 33% was whole cluster fermented, and after a 4 week fermentation, the wine was pressed off and aged in neutral oak for 18 months. It is deep in color, but then offers plenty of ripe fruit, with black pepper in a medium bodied style. The  aroma is mostly black plum with a touch of thyme and pepper. The flavors are similar but the palate impression is one of bright, lively fruit that seems more savory than powerful. Kind of understated elegance and balanced by good acidity. 250 cases made.

94

Syrah now joins my list of  successes to date at Troon Vineyards. And at this early stage, the Troon team seems to be walking the walk. And that’s not a moon walk!

A Perfect Summer Red Wine and A Real Bargain!

Just discovered and uncorked the 2020 Pinot Noir from Clay Shannon at, hold on, $5.99 a bottle. It normally sells for $22.00.

From Shannon’s Long Valley vineyards in Lake County, this Pinot is being blown out at select Trader Joe’s.

Whatever the reason may be for the sale, a deal is a deal.

This Pinot has been rated 89 to 92 points by the usual suspects.

To my palate, it is a light style Pinot  but correct, with bright cherry fruit and oak spice, well-balanced with a pleasing finish.

My Rating: 91

With luck, I’ll see you at the checkout counter,

Wines to Buy at 3-Day Sales Event

At WTSO.com 

The 3-day sale with rotating stock starts today.

It is a case sale, with all wine offered at $150 a case with free shipping

The wines ordered ship the next day

And for those uncomfortable with math: The per bottle price is $12.49!!

Explores the sale at http://www.WTSO.com (Wines ‘Til Sold Out)

What I’m buying:

2018 Château de Ribebon  AOC Bordeaux Superieur (70% Merlot, 20% Cabernet, 10% Cab Franc)

2022 Chateau Lamothe, Bordeaux Blanc (Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon)

2020 Tresors de Loire Chinon (Cabernet Franc)

The two Bordeaux wines are extremely attractive.

The Chinon is an excellent example of Loire Valley Cab Franc, especially at 60% below retail

All three are rated 90+.

Don’t like these: There are several red wines from Lodi if you like that style.

Pinot Noir Deal of the Day

Deal of the Day!

Just noticed one of my favorite Pinot Noirs is being offered at an amazing price of $22.

The offer comes from www.wineaccess.com.

Here’s what they have to say:

“Solena Grande Cuvée is the Pinot that led us to rethink the term “quality-to-price ratio” and start saying “quality-to-price disparity” instead. The 2021, from a landmark year, has it all: balance, deep red fruit, cleansing acidity, and a personality that makes it hard to put that cork back in.”

Better yet, here’s my recent review from http://www.winereviewonline.com

Soléna Estate, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Noir “Grand Cuvée” 2021 ($28):

This may well be today’s best value in Oregon Pinot Noir.  Made from a selection of the family’s vineyards in the Yamhill and McMinnville AVAs, this Cuvee offers a lovely aroma that is at once complex and compelling.  A subtle melange of raspberry, and truffles with hints of earthiness define both the aroma and flavors.  On the palate it is medium bodied with bright raspberry / blackberry flavors that gain in intensity with airing and take you to a big, rich finish.  With light tannins, it can be enjoyed now or cellared a few more years.  It bears repeating: an excellent value.       

94 Norm Roby Mar 21, 2023

BEST SUMMER SIPPER WINE SALE

SEE IT AT  http://www.cawineclub.com

One of the oldest online wine sellers, the California Wine Club has a solid reputation for pricing and reliability. So it comes as no surprise that several small wineries looking for new sales outlets have discovered it.

And you should see what it is offering right now.

The summer sippers for under $20 are led by two of my favorites, each at $10.99:

2021 Clos La Chance Estate Sauvignon Blanc

2018 South Coast Winery Viognier

For the Pinot Grigio lover, check out the Mountain View Winery’s at $16.99

And there are two first rate wines from Brutocao Cellars in Mendocino: Chardonnay and

Cabernet Sauvignon

The selection at the cawineclub changes as new wineries catch on and offer their wine.

Among recent additions that are out of the ordinary are Malbec From Yorkville Cellars, a Carmenere made by Plaisance Ranch and one of the most sought after dry Rieslings, the 2020 Poet’s Leap from Long Shadow.

 the EX Monterey Pinot Noir from Wrath wines is another hard to find wine

Not all wines are deeply discounted as this club also functions like a traditional retailer.

And it offers hard to find wines like this beauty from Joel Peterson:

2020 Once and Future Zinfandel, Teldeschi Vineyard, Frank’s Block

With occasional new offerings like that, you owe it to yourself to check out the site

Specializing in small, family owned wineries, most from California, the site works smoothly with 4 categories: 

Super Savers

Artisan and Under $50

For Connoisseurs

Recent Club Features

Frequently, this club has a $1 case shipping deal, so it is wise to get on the email list.

End of February Wine Sale

Get ready to cherry pick a big wine sale featuring 150 wines at 40-50% price reductions

And $5 case shipping. 

Highlights: 150 wines up for sale

The website: vintagewineestates.com 

On Tuesday the 28th, Vintage Wine Estates will offer 150 wines from its portfolio of wineries. 

The collection ranges from top notch wineries like Owen Roe, Qupe, Kunde, Laetitia, Clos Pegase and several others that are fully functional real wineries.

And, yes, the portfolio includes your basic supermarket brands like cherry pie and layer cake.

VWE as the company likes to be called, has so far encouraged many of its wineries to function as they always have.

It added a new brand “Bar Dog” that may appeal to some of you.

And I do like to fun/pun it created with the brand, “If You See Kay.” 

Here are the wineries to look for in this sale:

Owen Roe Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and other reds from Red Willow Vineyard

Tamarack  Firehouse Red for $12

Qupe Grenache $18

Laetitia Pinot Noir

Kunde Zinfandel

B.R. Cohn Chardonnay, Cabernet

Delectus Napa Valley

Can’t  find anything you like? Well then, just If You See Kay it!