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A Unique Take on A Wine Club

Excellent wines, low prices, no-nonsense

Looking for “A wine club with “NO commitments, NO fees, NO cards on file, NO limited selections!”? Or how about a winery dedicated to offering you the “Best bang for your buck”? Well, I happened upon a winery that meets both of these requirements. My introduction to the winery was through its press release challenging other wineries to match its record of having every wine produced rated 90 points or higher.

Challenging other wineries was a clever and unprecedented way to get attention, and it obviously worked for me. But the emphasis on a wine club open to anyone and wines pitched for value was also attention-getting. Here was one winery flying way under the radar, my kind of winery. 

But a wine club anyone can join is really not a club, is it?  Could this be some kind of come on trying to unload mediocre wine, or the real deal?

Peirano Estate Vineyards is the winery and, as I learned through conversations and tastings, is the real deal. It also does things differently, goes against the grain and does so without swagger. Better yet, it  tries to make the wine experience uncomplicated yet fun. A small  winery with no hype about icons, no rockstar winemakers, no strict allocations and waiting lists, and no luxury priced wines?

Located in Lodi, Peirano Estate is family owned and it may be one of the oldest with vineyards established in 1885. The family’s history takes you through the ups and downs of farmers before, during and after Prohibition. Check it out at: www.peirano.com

The family farm now covers 300 acres and is in the hands of the fourth generation, Lance Randolph.  He’s the guy behind the tractor, behind the wines and behind this novel wine club.

A Vineyard Guy

Lance Randolph is said to have been driving tractors up and down the vineyard at the age of six. In 1992, he ventured into winemaking, a transition made easy by being very familiar with the family vineyards. Today the Peirano vineyards are planted to Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Syrah, Viognier, and Petite Sirah. It also “has perhaps the largest single block of old, head-trained, natural rooted Zinfandel left in the state of California.”  Lance adds, “Rather than destroy these beautiful old Lodi Zinfandel vines to make way for larger yielding, more economically advantageous vines, we have decided to harvest the meager 2 tons per acre production.”

With his viticultural background, that was not an impulsive decision. Lance has explored various training and harvesting methods and the winery’s website explains his vineyard management trials and applications in great detail.  For example: “In the 1990s, Lance was one of the first to implement the Geneva Double Curtain system. This system, rather than using one cordon wire connecting the vines through the center, as done with the bilateral cordon system of the 1960s, splits the vine into two and uses two cordon wires spaced three feet apart. This method is highly advantageous for the estate Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot grapes.”  Some of the Cabernet Sauvignon is 50 years old, but the Merlot acreage is newer, planted to six clones.

Anyway, after reading the very detailed background, the one point that sticks out to me is that having gone through numerous possibilities of vineyard management, he now prefers to hand harvest all varieties. That is unusual in Lodi or anywhere today.

An Uncomplicated Business Plan

To continue the theme of going against the grain or the norm, when it comes to selling Peirano wines, the winery favors one price fits all. Whether they be white or red, varietals or blends, barrel aged or not, all 15 wines are priced at $16 a bottle. Not only is that unusual, but the winery offers a mix and match case deal  at 50% off, or $8 bucks a bottle. Shipping is a flat rate of $48. So add $4 and the bottle price is still a reasonable $12.

Why $16?

“We chose $16 per bottle because it reflects our goal of offering exceptional quality at an accessible price. Every bottle of our wine comes from estate-grown fruit—grapes we’ve farmed on our family’s Lodi vineyards for generations. The $16 price point allows us to maintain our hands-on approach in the vineyard and winery, using traditional techniques and sustainable practices, while still keeping our wines affordable enough for everyday enjoyment. It’s a balance between honoring the craftsmanship and heritage behind each bottle and ensuring our wines remain approachable to a wide range of wine lovers.”

So no surprise, the wine club is open to anyone, but how did this come about?  Lance explains:

“I started the mix & match case offer over a decade ago when I realized that all tasting rooms were using a subscription model/wine club scenario. Call me old fashioned but I hate being forced to leave my credit card on file and be told what wine I had to try because the winery was trying to “unload” it on me! So I struggled for a long time to find a unique solution that eliminates all the wine club demands. It all came to our customer needs – they want to pick and choose what they want and get those “great” wine club discounts without all of the wine club requirements. Thus – our “family plan” was born and we actively say ‘ditch the wine club experience and try our novel approach to experiencing wine!’

Welcome to the “No Wine Club Zone”  

Many people enter the”Zone” through the tasting room in Lodi. Visitors can select wines from all 15 or 16 wines available at the time. To sample five, the fee is…$10. 

Most Peirano wines offered today are reds, either blends or varietals. Among the whites, the blended “Sea Enchantress” reviewed earlier is my favorite. The Chardonnay will appeal to those preferring the ripe apple and  buttery style a la Rombauer. 

The red wines range in style from simple and approachable to big, bold and cellar-worthy. The Six Clone Merlot stood out as the best red for everyday enjoyment, and the Malbec is also noteworthy in a drink-now style. With the currently available blends, you sense that the winemaker is using a splash of old vine Zin or old vine Cabernet as his not too secret sauces. 

The first wine I tasted that contained some old vine Zin was the Red “Sea Enchantress.” Here’s my note:

Peirano Estate Vineyards, “The Sea Enchantress” Red Lodi (California) The Artist Series 2020 $16

 So in this wine they combine Petite Sirah, Old Vine Zinfandel, Tempranillo and Syrah. Then it was aged in a combination of French and American oak, 15% new. The result? Well, it is not an in your face, power-packed fruit bomb. Dark in color, it has a beautiful aroma of black olive, licorice, with some blackberry and light oak toast. The ripe flavors offer lots of plum and light cinnamon supported by gentle tannins. Made in a big and approachable style, this is an absolute steal at this price. 92

After that initial encounter,  little encouragement was needed for me to explore more Peirano wines. Of the several red blends reviewed here, the differences between one and another were not dramatic. But they are different, and fun to taste. 

The family apparently has some fun with naming their wines. There’s “Immortal Zin” and “The Other,” along with “Sea Enchantress” and “Illusion,” both labels based on paintings by Alexis Randolph, representing the fifth generation. The 3 components for “The Other”  Red are listed as”This,That, and The Other.”  The back label adds the wine is “Sin-sually delicious.”

 The following notes highlight two of my favs. But for reviews on many others:, go to winereviewonline.com

Peirano Estate Vineyards Lodi (California) Old Vine ”Immortal Zin”  2022 $16

Hand harvested from 120 year old, head prune vines, this is an amazing wine to taste. The deep, dark color and concentrated flavors are expected, but the pleasure here is in the ultra-smooth, velvety texture. Blackberry and strawberry are the central themes, but there’s a floral element that elevates the aroma. Some spice and juicy ripe fruit flavors along with an earthy background continue well into the juicy finish. There’s so much going on you aren’t aware that the wine is 15.5% in alcohol. 93

Peirano Estate Vineyards The Heritage Collection, Lodi (California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2022 $16

From 50 year old vines, this wine was fermented by 3 methods: static, cold soak and rotary fermentation. It was also given extended maceration time and oak aged for one year. It opens gradually to reveal an aroma of ripe plum and graphite along with a slight floral and spice touch. Medium full bodied with concentrated black fruit flavors, it comes across the palate as soft and smooth. With integrated tannins, this is one to enjoy over the next few years.The style is big and juicy with good Cabernet aromatics and flavors presented on a solid framework. 92

Exploring the Okanagan Valley

In January of 2024 record-setting frosts damaged many vineyards in British Columbia’s Okanagan Valley and pretty much wiped out the vintage. Having visited the B.C. region recently, 

I published an article last month about how winemakers there are coping with the frost damage and the steps taken to see them through the rough spell this year.  

The article, entitled “Climate Change, Border Crossings, and Dual Citizen Wines,” was posted at www.winereviewonline.com  Spoiler alert: it was all about wine, not political.

The Okanagans had to chart an entire new course to have wines to sell from 2024. And they did, with most going across the border to Washington and Oregon. So far, many of the vineyards have recovered and the 2025 harvest is underway in Okanagan Valley.

 I also realized since posting that article that wines from Canada’s British Columbia, particularly the Okanagan region, are not well known outside of Canada. A few wine scholars may think of Canada as the home of hybrid varietals and Ice Wine. But that’s Eastern Canada.The Okanagan Valley sits above Washington State. It is a relatively young region and almost half of the wines made are sold direct from its wineries. 

My interest in Canadian wine is more personal, and to be upfront, I’m a dual citizen. Until recently that was no big deal. But now? Anyway, in normal years, the wines from Okanagan Valley are quite distinctive in a fruit-forward, food-friendly style. I’ve enjoyed a number of them and am happy to share what I’ve learned. 

So  British Columbia today has about 14,000 acres of vineyards and around 350 wineries, with 90% of the vineyards in the Okanagan Valley. That makes it fairly comparable in size  to Mendocino County and slightly larger than the Sierra Foothills wine regions.

As a vinifera wine region, the Okanagan Valley in Canada came to life in 1990 with the formation of the British Columbia Wine Institute. Several events occurred earlier to start turning things around. In 1974 when most vineyards were planted to hybrids, the BC government imported 4,000 vinifera vines and between 1977 and 1982 conducted experiments in 18 different sites.  As a result, some 33 vinifera varieties made the cut by demonstrating an ability to ripen and produce quality wines in the Okanagan.

Also in 1990, the BC Vintners Quality Alliance was formed and the VQA designation which guaranteed authenticity became a rallying cry. Displayed on labels, “BC VQA” means the wine

was made 100% from BC grapes. Not exactly complicated or detailed, but this was enough to spark major growth.

Most wines are labeled “Okanagan Valley, BC VQA” as their origin, but within that area are over a dozen sub-regions. But within each sub-region, the growing conditions vary widely due to elevation, aspect, proximity to a lake or a river, and soil types. For instance, the east side of Lake Okanagan is much warmer than the west side of the Valley because it receives hot afternoon sun well into the evening. There can be ripening differences of as much as two weeks for the same variety at the same latitude depending on which side of the valley it is planted.

Kelowna and Penticton are cities that contain two major sub-regions. Located at the southern end of the Lake, Penticton is a lively village and some 85 wineries are within a 20 minute drive. 

The lake is, of course, the Okanagan Lake, a deep one gouged out by glaciers that is 85 miles long and 3 miles wide. It seems omnipresent but as you drive around the steep hillsides seeing lava rocks here and there you also sense the presence of Mt. Boucherie, a once active volcano.

While most wine regions claim to be unique in some way, the Okanagan Valley with its history of glaciers and volcanoes is unquestionably unusual, arguably unique.  Then factor in the location, the 49th parallel east of the mountains in British Columbia, and it is a kind of high desert made semi-arid as the mountains keep annual rainfall totals low.  

When compared to Napa Valley, the Okanagan enjoys at least 2 extra hours of daylight from July through the harvest. That’s according to winemakers who add that the season is short as budbreak occurs much later. In other words, different from any other wine region.

Kelowna

The Kelowna area stretching from Peachland up to the north end of the Okanagan Valley has the coolest climate.  This makes it an area well suited to earlier ripening varieties. Tantalus won me over with its Chardonnays and neighbor Spearhead Vineyards is a bona fide Pinot Noir specialist. Pinot Noir dominates here with 27% of the acreage while Chardonnay, Pinot Gris and Riesling together cover another 40%.  

Summerland, a lakeside village south of Peachland, is home base for two dozen wineries, including one of my favorites, Dirty Laundry. Evolve Cellars is another quality-minded winery.

Naramata Bench

 Many wineries can be found on the Naramata Bench as you travel along the eastern side of the lake from Penticton north to the tiny village of Naramata. Several wineries here, such as Da Silva, Hillside Winery and Popular Grove, are also classy bistros with excellent food to go with the fine wine. The west-facing vineyards of Naramata Bench and Skaha Bench can ripen later ripening varieties in their warmer sites.  Merlot, Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Gewürztraminer are the most widely planted varieties there. 

One fascinating new-ish region is the hard to say Similkameen Valley. A little northwest of Osoyoos, this region now has 17 wineries located along the river.The current vineyard acreage is 768, with Merlot, Cabernet and Cabernet Franc leading the way. Chardonnay and Riesling are the primary white varieties.  I didn’t get there, but two wineries making terrific wines are Orofino and Corcelettes Estate Winery. Both, interestingly enough, make high quality Syrah. The 2019 Syrah from Corcelettes was a stunning, rich, and flavorful version.

The Golden Mile

 Then there is The Golden Mile sub-region located within the larger Okanagan Valley Geographical Indication (GI).  It is British Columbia’s first sub-GI having gained its status as a recognized sub-region in 2015. It is situated just south of Oliver and consists of four creeks, each with their own alluvial fan. One of the four creeks is Hester Creek, which runs along the south side of the Hester Creek Estate Winery. The total acres under vine is just over 800. Two of the leading wineries, Tinhorn Creek Vineyards and Hester Creek, have enjoyed success with Viognier, Syrah, and Cabernet Franc.

With so many outstanding wineries along the route, you can easily spend 4-5 days exploring the diverse regions along and near Lake Okanagan and the Similkameen Valley.

As is true of most wine regions, vintage ratings are vague buying tools at best.  And since 2024 was a wipe out and most wines are from Washington and Oregon grapes, it was an odd year. The previous year, 2023, was good overall and just about every region was celebrating the 2022 harvest. Many red wines from 2022 are now on the market.

The notes that follow include wines from recent vintages and will, I hope, give you some insights into what Okanagan wines are all about as you browse through them. My general takeaway is that both the whites and reds share a food-friendly style and are not trying to knock your socks off or whatever cliche applies. The prices quoted are Canadian dollars.

Wild Goose Vineyards Okanagan Valley, British Columbia (Canada) Pinot Gris 2023 $22.

After its founders established a solid track record for white wines, the Wyse family of Burrowing Owl Vineyards acquired the winery and vineyards in 2021. Happily for fans, its winning streak with Pinot Gris continued with this 2023. The aroma is a pleasing mix of ripe pear and apricot, and the flavors are lively. Smooth in texture, it is medium bodied and finishes with good length thanks to some citrus notes. Solid, all-purpose version that rises above the crowd.

91

Hester Creek Estate Winery Pinot Gris Viognier Columbia Valley (Washington) 2024 $20

Part of the winery’s Columbia Valley Collection created when its home vineyard in Okanagan suffered severe frost damage, this wine is a blend of 70% Pinot Gris and 30% Viognier. Both varieties were hand harvested and transported in refrigerated containers across the border the same day to the winery. Once there, the two varieties were crushed and fermented separately and blended afterwards. It is a lively, smooth and refreshing white with bright lemon and nectarine on the nose.The flavors combine citrus and peach along with a touch of minerality in the aftertaste. With airing a floral background emerges for added interest. Quite a successful 

quaffable white on its own, but more impressive given the behind the scenes challenges. 

90

Blasted Church Vineyards Washington State Hartfield’s Fuse 2024 $18

To replicate its popular white blend, Okanagan’s Blasted Church sourced grapes from the Certified Sustainable Andrews Family Vineyards in Washington’s Horse Heaven Hills AVA. The final blend is a mix of Pinot Gris, Riesling and Viognier, and the initial aroma shows a definite Riesling floral component with a touch of citrus. Medium bodied and smooth on the palate, it has more peach like flavors and seems to have a touch of sweetness. But then the acidity perks up and balances the finish. 88

Spearhead Winery (Okanagan Valley) Pinot Noir “Cuvée” 2019 ($42)

This is the winemaker’s best cuvée selected from barrels, and the final blend is a mix of Dijon clones plus the Mt. Eden and Pommard Pinot clones. The wine was fermented in the traditional approach as were the 3 vineyard Pinots, but with the difference that this was aged in more (40%) new French oak.  It is full of ripe black cherry, rose petal and spice along with a hint of toasty oak.  This is a very integrated and velvety smooth Pinot with some refined tannins.  But as was true of all these Pinots, there’s an underlying layer of vibrancy which is associated with the wine’s natural acidity and low pH.  430 cases made.  94     

Spearhead Winery (Okanagan Valley) Pinot Noir “Coyote” 2019 $36

This is sourced from a vineyard in West Kelowna with highly volcanic soil and situated at 1,300 ft elevation.  It is planted entirely to the Dijon #115 clone, which is said to be one of the few clones that can stand alone.  A few winemakers in Santa Barbara believe in it. At Spearhead, the winemaking is Burgundian with de-stemming, cold soaking and fermenting with native yeasts. This one was aged 13 months in French oak, 25% new.  It comes across with light cherry and forest floor earthiness, and is medium-bodied.  Very lively on the palate.  It has a long finish that accentuates its cherry, herbal side and also shows definite tannins.  350 cases made.  90

Black Sage Vineyard Okanagan Valley, British Columbia  (Canada) Cabernet Franc 2022 $28

The winery makes this Cab Franc  from 25 year old vines grown in southern Okanagan where the variety has enjoyed good success. It was aged for 12 months in French and American oak. The aroma is simply amazing with black tea, plum and tobacco leaf coming at you. Full-bodied, It has flavors that are at once earthy and berry-like with a hint of bell pepper. With light tannins, this is one to aerate and enjoy now or lay it away for a few years. 93

Gray Monk Cellars BC VGA Okanagan Valley Monk’s Blend 2022 $18

This blend of Syrah and Cabernet was introduced in 2019 and the ‘22 is made from grapes grown in Okanagan & Similkameen. It was aged in French and American oak for 18 months.

Deep in color, it offers a lovely aroma of plum and black fruits and from there on impresses as an approachable, food-friendly, and solid rendition. With subtle black olive, pepper and soft tannin coming through on the palate, it finishes on a youthful note. It is a good example of blended red wines  that are made to please, rather than overwhelm.

Burrowing Owl Estate Winery Okanagan Valley (British Columbia, Canada) Cabernet Franc 2021 $35

Located in the town of Oliver in the South Okanagan Valley, Burrowing Owl was founded in 1997 by the Wyse family. Since then it has shown the way in Canada for Bordeaux-inspired wines, particularly Merlot. In 2021, said to be a warm vintage, it came up with an impressive, concentrated and complex Cab Franc. It was aged for 16 months in a combination of French, Hungarian and American oak. The aroma offers plum and cassis with light tobacco and dried herbs notes. Big and smooth on the palate, it comes across with lovely ripe berry and plum flavors, light oak and spice. The tannins are gentle, providing structure and adding length. Excellent now and should drink well over the next several years. 93

Dirty laundry Vineyard Okanagan Valley, (British Columbia, Canada)  Merlot 2022

Based in Summerland, this small winery was a fun, laid back place to visit. Its ‘22 Merlot was aged 18 months in small oak and comes across as a rich, round wine ready to drink. It has a generous aroma of ripe black plum with a hint of tea and dried herbs. The texture is smooth and plush, and the fruit-forward flavors are complemented by light tannin. The rich palate is especially appealing. 90

Exploring the Past, Present and Future of Turkish Wines

Wine lovers with an unquenchable thirst for wine knowledge should check out a new book. It is all about the past, present and future of Turkish wines. If you are a serious student of wine, this book will fill a big gap in your wine odyssey.

As Emmie, the author explains: “The exciting ride Turkish vignerons embarked on in the 1990s is continuing with passion.” And as we also learn in Turkish Wines: “The story of Turkish wine is still unfolding, and chapters are yet to be written.” 

Several years ago, as I stood with glass in hand, a small group of visitors to the historic Guglielmo Winery in Morgan Hill were listening attentively to the origins and history of the Grignolino grape variety.  Not only was the information conveyed with ease, and the tone struck was natural, not intimidating, and it was obvious the person behind the tasting room bar loved wine. 

That was my first encounter with Emmie. While we talked later about Petite Sirah and other wines, I soon learned that Mehtap Emmie Turan was born and raised in Turkey.  

Answering questions from winery visitors is not easy but it was the first step in her personal wine odyssey. After enrolling in numerous wine classes focusing on the wines of the world, and also traveling extensively throughout the wine world, she returned to her homeland to further her education. 

Despite a history of winemaking going back 8,000 years, Turkey has been overlooked or cast aside by today’s wine journalist. Combining her passion for wine with her pride of country, Emmie set about to correct that.

Focused on “The Past, Present and Future, “ this book opens with a deep dive into the ancient history of grape growing and winemaking, guides you through the ups and downs of Turkish wines, especially over the last century, and leads you up to the still unfolding story of its wines today. But it is not only wine focused. No, this book is loaded with personal experiences, candid observations, and often returns to shine the spotlight on people, places, politics and religion. 

With each major section, Emmie adopts the tone that best conveys the subject at hand. Only a scholarly tone can succeed in presenting the various possibilities of the birthplace of wine. When talking about the interaction between politics and religion that takes you up to and through the Ottoman Empire, well, that needs the neutral voice of a historian. There’s no sugar-coating when she addresses the past and present roadblocks, whether they be from politics, economics, or religion. For Turkish wine, it has been indeed a “tough row to hoe.”

Moving on to the resurgence of wine from the 1980s to the present, Emmie comfortably switches to the voice of the knowledgeable wine educator and wine lover. Sometimes she simply asks a question such as should Turkey’s major regions carve out AOCs like the French. Her breakdown of the different wine regions along with the profiles of the grape varieties, indigenous as well as international, will likely be part of a standard wine curriculum in the not too distant future.

Exploring Turkey’s primary wine regions is the heart of the book. As Emmie verbally escorts readers from one region to another, each section is full of first hand information about the wineries, the varieties grown there, and her personal travel notes to maximize a visit along each region’s wine routes. This part of the book comes across as your personal guide, recalling that naturally comfortable voice I overheard back at the tasting room in Morgan Hill. 

I read her book in bits and pieces because there is so much to digest and so much to think about after each section. She opens topics up for discussion in her comments about charting a course, global opportunities, wine tourism, and niche marketing. Even her asides are thought provoking. Make sure to read her views on women in the wine business. 

Finally, the beautiful photographs throughout this book leave no doubt that Turkey’s fascinating history, current wines and timeless beauty should be better known to all wine lovers.  

And yes, I learned a lot from this book and was honored, when my friend Emmie asked me to write the Foreword.

Available at Amazon, but also direct from Mission View Press. Price is $36.99 with free shipping.

contact the author at missionviewpress@gmail.com

Payment by PayPal missionviewpress@gmail.com, Zelle missionviewpress

Cool Wines for Warm Days

Wine enjoyment changes with the seasons, always has, always will. At least for normal, non-snobby people, who know better than to pop open a red Bordeaux, expensive burgundy or oak-driven Chardonnay when the temperature is over 90F. Sorry, but put aside your bottles of Petrus, The Prisoner or Rombauer Chardonnay for another day, thanks.

When the first heat spell arrived in mid-June, my mind, set on auto-pilot, immediately thought of a good dry rose. Provence and Tavel are associated with French Rose wines, and many West Coast producers have raised  the bar high with Roses of Pinot Noir. 

But if you like a little more flavor in a Rose that is also chillable and can carry over to be paired with your favorite summer dish, Grenache Rose is my fav choice for 2025. Here are a few examples of nicely-flavored, smooth as silk, and fun to enjoy this summer.

Peter William Vineyard Rogue Valley (Oregon) Grenache Rose 2024 $24

As Roses increase in popularity the trend is toward drier and more substantial flavor, but you never know until you taste the wine. Here’s a Rose that takes dry Rose to another quality level.  The appealing color is more coral than pink, and the aroma offers lovely fresh strawberries with a hint of spice. On the palate, this wine sets itself apart from the pack with its rich, round body and ultra-smooth texture. The finish is long with berry-ish flavors and just enough acidity to balance things off and makes you start thinking of food to enjoy it with. 92

Terre Rouge Vin Gris D’Amador Sierra Foothills (California) 2022 $32

The “Vin Gris” name along with the striking salmon-coral color suggest this is a Rose out of the ordinary. The juice was fermented in French barrels normally used for white wines. Made from 52% Grenache and 42% Mourvedre, it is quite rich but also vibrant from start to finish. Strawberry, fresh cut flowers, and a hint of orange rind aromas reward swirling, and the wine is round on the palate with lots of juicy watermelon and yellow peach flavors. Good balancing acidity keeps it fresh, suggesting you can enjoy this all summer long by the glass or with seafood all year round.  94

Verdad Wines Grenache Rose San Luis Obispo, Reeves Vineyard  2023 $20

This beauty is made from the organically farmed Reeves Vineyard in Edna Valley. It comes across as a lively, lovely rosé  with aromas and flavors of crushed raspberries and  citrus. On the palate it is ultra-smooth with persistent flavors that have you thinking of enjoying it with  summer salads and grilled chicken. 92

Mathilde Chapoutier, Côtes de Provence 2023 $12

 Mathilde wines are imported by Michael Mondavi Family.  This 2023 release brings together Grenache and Syrah with a drop or two of Cinsault and Rolle.  After being night harvested and cold fermented, the wine is aged in stainless for 5 months.  Pale pink, it offers a pleasing, delicate aroma of watermelon with a floral note.  Light and vibrant on the palate, it pleases with its direct, gentle flavors. I’ve seen it priced below $8 at many Grocery Outlet Stores.      

Domaine de Triennes, Mediterranée IGT (Provence, France) Rosé 2024 ($18)

This Rosé, a blend of Cinsault, Syrah, Grenache, and Merlot, is everything you would expect from Provence and more. Light salmon in color, with an aroma of fresh strawberries and watermelon, it is lively and refreshing on the plate with lush berry flavors. Not a lightweight, but simply a delicious Rosé with enough richness to enjoy with lunch or by the pool.

Long Walk Vineyard, Rogue Valley (Oregon) 2022 $23

 With Rosé wines being so trendy and Rosés now being made from just about every red grape available, it was refreshing to encounter a Rosé from a red grape that’s ideally suited for a Rosé:  Cinsault.  Popular in Southern France, Cinsault is light in color and low in tannin and remains the backbone for many Provence Rosés.  From vines planted in 2002, this is an attractive pink-copper color and offers an aromatic mix of just-picked strawberries, rose petals and summer flowers. Medium-bodied and vibrant, it is balanced and has just enough acidity to bring it to a delicate finish. 92

Julia’s Dazzle, Columbia Valley (Washington) Pinot Gris Rosé 2023 $20

 This Rosé is full of surprises starting with the fact that it is made from Pinot Gris. Then you look at its unusual onion skin color and move on to its pretty aroma of berries with a rose petal note.  In the mouth, it is soft with refined and lively berry flavors. Creamy in texture, it has just enough acidity to make you beg for a second glass. 92

But if you are among those who prefer red wines, there are plenty of choices out there to enjoy over the long summertime. Even the barbecue crowd can still confidently open a red wine, so you don’t need to change your diet, just change where you look.

Changing your attitude is also important, so you have to first think about red wines that can be chilled. Yes, it is okay to chill a red. You can also add an icecube which may shock some people, but remember, if you paid for the wine, you can do anything you want to do with it. 

It’s best to avoid wines that are high in tannins, or oak as well as those high in alcohol. The reason is that chilling will tone down or mute the fruitiness of a red, leaving a dull aroma and dried out tannic flavor.  

G.D. Vajra, Langhe Nebbiolo DOC (Piedmont, Italy) 2023 $25

Anyone looking for red wines to enjoy over the summer should seriously consider Nebbiolo. Vajra, a pioneer of sustainable and organic farming in Piedmont, offers an excellent example of a Nebbiolo that can be slightly chilled and still be a perfect complement to summertime fare. Light garnet in color with an aroma of berries, fresh roses, and a light note of tar, this wine is refreshing and nicely balanced. The flavors are a juicy mix of cherry, raspberry, and a touch of spice, complemented by light  tannins and good  acidity. Fun to drink and versatile.

91

Delfino Farms Edio Estate Grown Grenache, El Dorado 2023 $42

Grenache is typically rich in flavors and low in tannins, so smooth it often is. El Dorado is home to many wineries making excellent Grenache. Delfino is one of my favs. In 2023, the wine was 100% Grenache, whereas previous vintages were blended with Syrah. Aged for 10 months in neutral French oak and bottled unfined and unfiltered, this is an excellent example of pure, vibrant, mountain grown Grenache. The color is a lively red, and the aroma is all about cranberry and cherry with light spice accents. Medium-bodied, sleek and structured, it has fresh flavors of cherry and plum, with a slight tannic edge in the finish. The acidity lengthens the finish and leaves you thinking of serving it with light cheese or summer fare. 92

Troon Vineyard Druid’s Red, Applegate Valley 2023 $22

Troon is all about biodynamic and sustainability and delicious wines like this red. 

Druid’s Red  is a fun, all-purpose red wine. Made from 30% Syrah, 27% Grenache, 20% Cinsault, 19% Mourvèdre, and 4% Carignane, it offers fresh plum and raspberry aromas backed up by hints of dried herbs. Gentle and smooth on the palate with ultra soft tannins, it continues the lively plum and berry theme with subtle accents of earth and tobacco for added interest. The winery suggests it be served chilled, and it is a great pizza and picnic red to enjoy all summer.

Starfield Cinsault El Dorado $32

 Starfield and several neighbors in El Dorado are giving Cinsault, a popular grape for rose wines, a fresh look on its own.  From its 31 acre vineyard, Starfield produces several Rhône-style wines as well as others in its “Mountain Mediterraneans” program. In its 2019 Cinsault, freshly picked strawberry and cranberry juice dominate the expansive aromas in this medium light-bodied red.  Without any noticeable tannin, it really turns on the charm as its lively flavors expand across the midpalate with fresh berry and spice and red fruit that all persist well into the aftertaste.  More than a summer sipper, this is a versatile food companion.  And delicious.      

La Quercia Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC( Italy)  Riserva 2020 $22

From a vineyard organically farmed since the late ‘60s, winemaker Antonio Lamona aged this wine for a year in Slavonian oak. It has a deep, dark color and then you encounter an aroma that is absolutely enchanting. It opens with plums and blackberries along with anise and a light floral fragrance. Juicy and packed with flavors that are vibrant and youthful, it has light tannins that give it some bite in the finish. The flavors continue the emphasis on plum, cherry and earthiness with a fleshy mouthfeel. The slightly tannic finish makes this a great choice for the BBQ crowd.  This is a lot of wine for the price! 92

So there you are! Bring it on summer!!

Is Grenache the New Pinot Noir?

Is Grenache, aka Grenache Noir, the next Pinot Noir?  That’s not as far-fetched as it may seem at first glance since the Grenache name has become highly visible with the growing popularity of Grenache Rose. But no, I don’t think there will be a follow up to “Sideways” with Miles dumping a bucket of Pinot and singing the praise of Grenache.

However, it has come a long way and Randall Grahm puts things in proper perspective when saying, “I never thought I’d see it but Grenache definitely seems to be having a moment.”

While Grenache is not about to replace Pinot Noir, I can’t count the times a recent conversation or comment about Grenache was somehow linked to Pinot Noir. Bill Easton of Terre Rouge Vineyards sees it as “sort of a warmer climate Pinot Noir. Delicate; less tannic; tends to be more complex when blended with a bit of Mourvèdre and Syrah” while Mike McCay of McCayCellars calls it “Lodi’s Pinot Noir.”

In El Dorado, Cedarville’s Jonathan Lachs told me “I introduce our Grenache as our middleweight wine, similar to a Pinot Noir, though equally regal, with less oak dependance and a tremendous sense of place.” 

I’ll return to a comment from Randall: “As someone far wittier than I once said, “Grenache is the grape that Pinot Noir drinkers are in fact looking for.”  My slight reformulation of that is:  “For my entire career I’ve been trying to make Burgundy in California.  It just took me a while to realize that the most successful “Burgundy” in California is not likely to be made from Pinot Noir.”

After several more winemakers emphasized the grape’s Pinot Noir like delicacy and sensitivity to site, that was enough for me to put on my deep diving gear and check out what’s going on with Grenache in California. 

A Little Background

The first step took me back to 1989 when the Rhone Rangers were making news and being the cover story of The Wine Spectator. That was also the year of Randall Grahm and Bonny Doon’s first vintage Grenache named “Clos de Gilroy.” There were only a few winemakers who viewed it positively and were aware of the importance of Grenache in Châteauneuf du Pape. The most  passionate voice was that of John Alban who admits today that “Grenache has been our unwavering obsession.”  From his first vintage onward, he says he  was “determined to figure out how to grow and produce a California Grenache that people might just respect.”  

He went on to clarify his position: “When I spoke of establishing respect for Grenache, it was breaking the paradigm and silly notion of noble varieties: nobility is in the wine, not in the variety.  I wanted to make a Grenache that people viewed as delicious and cellar worthy.”

Like many of his fellow Rangers, Alban knew Chateau Rayas was a rare Chateauneuf-du-Pape that was predominantly Grenache. Unlike them, he went to France and apprenticed in the cellars of Rayas. In a recent conversation, he explained what he and others were up against when he returned:  “The prevailing notion was that California Grenache was limp in color, texture, structure, and appeal. I have referred to these wines as ‘pinky dink picnic wines.’ These warm climate, deep soiled plantings pre-dated sincere efforts for a quality wine by many decades.” Starting out way back then, he adds, “you naturally have a consumer base that is imprinted with the perception and experience of Grenache as mass produced plonk.”

Unlike the other Rhone varieties, Grenache was not unknown. It just had a bad reputation. In the mid 1970s, there were 20,000 acres planted in California.  In 1990, there were still plenty planted, some 13,000 acres, but all but 1% was in the warm Central Valley. Overproduction was the main problem. Jason Hass of Tablas Creek recalls that when his dad, Robert Hass, was considering starting a winery in California, there was “a photo my dad sent me of him holding a Grenache cluster he’d found in the Central Valley. It was the size of a basketball and probably weighed 20 pounds!” 

Moving Inland

Today’s total acreage approaches 5,000 and the majority is in the Central Coast, not the hot Central Valley.The good news is that over half of the current acreage has been planted since 2000, and much of the newer vineyards were in Santa Barbara, San Luis Obispo, and  Paso Robles. On a smaller scale, but no less important, were new plantings of Grenache in the Amador and El Dorado counties since 2000.

As a silver lining,California’s  phylloxera epidemic in the 1990s opened the door for exploring clones, emphasizing matching rootstocks to clones and better farming practices: all of which eventually helped resuscitate Grenache. In 1989 Tablas Creek began importing cuttings from Beaucastel, and John Alban was focusing on clones from Rayas. With a new emphasis on sustainable farming and organic practices, he and others went to work on controlling Grenache. He adds, “My effort started from the ground up: careful selections of the variety that had demonstrated the ability to make profound wine, rootstocks that would limit vigor, and vineyard sites that had the potential for greatness.”

Leaving the question of greatness aside for now, Grenache has certainly come a long way and has responded especially well to today’s sustainable and or biodynamic farming approaches. Selecting vineyard sites is part of the story, and I discovered there are two opposing camps: the high elevation advocates and the cool-climate school.

Mountain High

 I was surprised to find Grenache thriving alongside Zinfandel in the Sierra Foothills. So I asked around and Nolan Jones of Lava Cap has this to say when asked how it compares to Zinfandel:

“Grenache is considerably easier to grow and manage both in the vineyard and in the cellar. We rarely see problems with mold or mildew in our Grenache, whereas Zinfandel requires significantly more attention to prevent these issues. The ripening process also differs, with Zinfandel often needing 2-3 passes in a block due to unevenness. Grenache, on the other hand, ripens uniformly. Grenache also demonstrates good resilience to both heat and rain, unlike Zinfandel, which tends to raisin in heat and mold in rain.”

Lava Cap, family owned since 1986, has been making Grenache since 2000. Founded by a geologist, the family established vineyards at elevations high above the valley and coastal fog belt, ranging from 2,400f-2,700ft. The more I looked into the success of Grenache today, high elevation sites are one of the keys.  Basically, Jones explains, “the elevation and the resulting cool air, play a key role in limiting elevated temperatures during extreme heat spikes.” 

In recent years, Argentinian Malbec has dominated the link between elevation and wine quality, but now Grenache is adding a voice. When talking about it as a “mountain wine,” Jones explains, by that “I mean the fruit is fresh and vibrant as opposed to bulky and heavy, the acid is bright, and phenolics show a firm structure that is unique to high elevation sites.”  

Not far away is Cedarville Vineyards and its organically farmed estate at 2,500 feet in the Fair Play and El Dorado AVA. Delfino Farm’s Estate Grenache sits on granite soils at the 2,800 ft level. Also in El Dorado County, Madrona which also makes an excellent Grenache is situated at 3,000 feet in the El Dorado County Appellation. Madroña consists of three family-owned vineyards, and its 2019 Grenache, reviewed earlier, is a real bell-ringer.

In Amador County, Bill Easton of Terre Rouge has been making wines from Grenache since 1985. For his top of the line L’Autre he sources fruit from The Duarte-Georgetown Vineyard, located at 2,500 feet near the town of the same name. Another of my favorite discoveries is Weisinger Winery in Southern Oregon whose attractive Grenache is from the Avra Vineyard, elevation 2221 feet.

Cool Climate Grenache

However exciting those Mountain grown Grenache may be, the major hub of activity is the Central Coast where winemakers in Santa Barbara are promoting cool climate Grenache. Ironically, it was at the Hitching Post Restaurant in Santa Barbara where Miles in Sideways cursed Merlot and started the big push for Pinot Noir. 

In describing its 2023 Santa Barbara Grenache, Stolpman Vineyards, one of my favorite wineries, offers this tidy summary: “Light hued, cool climate Grenache has proven itself as one of the most compelling success stories out of Santa Barbara County.  When we nail the harvest date, the Grenache varietal naturally gives a ripe, fleshy red-fruit profile while retaining bright verve and balance.” And the Santa Barbara Winery adds this overview:: Grenache grown in cooler climates tends to develop spicier components than in warmer climes, …Cool climate Grenache has a long hang time for flavor development.”

When Bob Lindquist, an original Rhone Ranger, made his first Grenache at Qupe in 2001, he sourced the grapes from the  Purisima Mountain Vyd in Ballard Canyon. He is now making Grenache from the Reeves Vineyard in the San Luis Obispo Coast AVA under his own label. Here’s his take: “Cool climate Grenache is quite different from most of the great Grenache wines of the world, which are normally grown in warm climates such as: Châteauneuf du Pape; Priorat; Barossa or even Paso Robles.  This Grenache is grown in an area where Pinot Noir and Chardonnay dominate and excel.  The unique climate and geography of this part of the Central Coast allow Grenache to ripen fully, 4-6 weeks after Pinot Noir ripens! 

A few years ago I was blown away by the 2018 Amor Fati Grenache from Santa Maria Valley in Santa Barbara. It was so lively and complex that it remains one of my highest rated wines. At the time it seemed odd that the Tooth & Nail winery in Paso had developed the cool-climate Murmur Vineyard for Grenache. Now, nothing surprises me about Grenache.

News from Paso

As for Paso Robles, Tablas Creek Vineyards is a major part of the Grenache story. From its vineyards in the Adelaida District planted to the Beaucastel clones, many wineries have obtained cuttings from its nursery, and the winery now cultivates 18 acres of Grenache. When asked for his thoughts on Grenache today, Jason Hass said, “As for Grenache, yes, we find it versatile and rewarding. It’s relatively vigorous, productive, and easy to grow. It’s great as a lead player in a blend, as a supporting player, and (most years) as a varietal wine. It has fruit, spice, and acid.”

Anyone interested in Grenache and all Rhone grapes should subscribe to the Tablas Creek blog. There you’ll find a detailed history of all the varieties. If you really want to go deep, a recent post evaluated  20 different blocks of Grenache made by Tablas Creek in the 2024 vintage. 

Also, as part of its single vineyard line, Tablas Creek recently added a Grenache from

the Hook Vineyard, part of the Hahn property in the Santa Lucia Highlands, in Monterey County. The cool, coastal-influenced 122-acre vineyard includes 21 acres of Grenache Noir from Tablas Creek clones. “The climate, quite different from Paso Robles and on the coolest edge of where Grenache will ripen, leads to very long hang times, dark colors, and thick skins, making this 100% Grenache a fun contrast to our higher-toned expression of the grape.”

Yes, there are new and fun Grenache wines to explore. My conversation with Jason ended on this note: I also love that it’s a great rosé grape and (I think) a lovely grape to make a chillable red from. That gives growers flexibility to respond to a changing marketplace. And of course there’s the white variant Grenache Blanc, which has proven to be a superstar here in California.”

Of the many other wineries making Grenache in Paso, I was intrigued by the way Calcareous Vineyard introduced its 2023 Grenache with these words: Grenache has found a home in Paso Robles as not only a key contributor to our Rhone blends but as a standout single varietal as well. Known for its elegant texture, lively fresh fruit, and great balance, our Grenache is easily one of our best food pairing wines.”

Yes indeed, from Paso we hear Grenache is “a chillable red” and “one of the best food pairing wines.”

For anyone considering jumping on the Grenache bandwagon, one winery, A Tribute to Grace, is a Grenache specialist.  No kidding.  At its tasting room in Los Alamos, it offers nine different Grenache bottlings.

 And now for the last word, I yield to Paul Bush of Madrona, “Approachable in nature for sipping on the deck, but serious enough for the table. This is Grenache!” 

 Wines that reinforce the notion that Grenache offers a wide range of styles.

Delfino Farms Edio Vineyards El Dorado Grenache 2023 $40

Delfino’s high elevation vineyard was planted primarily to the Alban clone of Grenache. In 2023, the wine was 100% Grenache, whereas previous vintages were blended with Syrah. Aged for 10 months in neutral French oak and bottles unfined and unfiltered, this is a super example of pure vibrant, mountain grown Grenache. The color is a lively red, and the aroma is all about cranberry and cherry with light spices. Medium bodied, sleek and structured, it has fresh flavors of cherry and plum, with a slight tannic edge in the finish. The acidity lengthens the finish and leaves you thinking of serving it with light cheese or summer fare. 92

Lava Cap Winery El Dorado AVA, Sierra Foothills (California) Grenache 2023 $32

Deep red in color, it immediately offers an effusive aroma of baking spices with cranberry and light floral. The palate is smooth with vibrant flavors of black fruit, mostly plum and hint of dried herbs. Finishes with light, gentle tannin and a lingering note of plum. It was aged for 9 months in neutral French oak. Overall, it showcases youthful fruit and spice and you’d never know when tasting it that the alcohol is 14%. Drink now but will hold up well over time.  450 cases made. 93

 Lindquist Family Wines San Luis Obispo Coast, Reeves Vineyard  Grenache 2022  $45

From the cool-climate SLO region, this Grenache is blended with 20% Syrah. Each variety is fermented separately and aged for 11 months in oak. Then, once combined, the wine ages an additional 5 months. Dark in color, it has an aroma of black cherry and cranberry with plenty of spice. Solid and concentrated in flavors, it remains vibrant on the palate with a hint of herbs. Savory overall, it can be slightly chilled without losing its core appeal. As attractive as it is now, it will age with grace for another 5 years, probably longer. 94

 Terre Rouge Grenache “L’Autre”, Sierra Foothills 2016 $35

(78% Grenache, 15% Mourvèdre & 7% Syrah)

L’Autre means “the other one, “ it is now the winery’s top Rhône varietal blend. From the 2016 vintage, this confirms that Grenache based wines do indeed develop with cellaring. The Grenache is from Duarte-Georgetown Vineyard located at 2,500 feet and the budwood is from Chateau Rayas, Beaucastel, and Remelluri in Rioja. The wine opens immediately and is full of ripe plum, light spice and herbs on the nose. On the palate, it is amazingly rich and round yet elegant with black fruit flavors and just a hint of gaminess. Finishing soft with a velvety texture, it is so inviting to drink now but has the balance to continue to please over the next several years. 

The winery says it “is a dead ringer for a top Gigondas,” and that is an understatement.  95

A Year in the Vineyard

A Year in the Vineyard

Sophie Menin and Bob Chaplin

Published by Cultureshock, 2024

Foreword by Hugh Johnson

This book is all about the cycle of the vine. It is divided into five sections:  dormancy, budburst, 100 hundred summer nights, harvest, and preparing for rest. Through its magnificent photos and insightful commentary, it also “documents the ongoing evolution of viticulture.” 

Sophie Menin notes in the Introduction that the book is not trying to catalogue every vineyard activity or feature every wine region in the world, but instead, she explains: ”we capture gestures, steps in a dance with the natural world” as winegrowers, vignerons “search for practical solutions to changing conditions.”

When the book arrived, my first thought was “wow, this is one heavy book.” But to be fair, I then went carefully through it, stopping at each photo, reading the sidebars, and when finished, the word “heavy” came back to mind. “Heavy” as the hippies used it back in the day meant powerful and significant, something that really grabs your attention. Nowadays with the TikTok crowd, this book would be  “heavy on meaning.” So let’s just go with thought-provoking. 

A Year in the Vineyard should be made available to every student in every wine class today. Whether referenced in an introduction to wine, or a certified wine course, this book will help put everything back into perspective. It captures the reason why we enjoy, study, and share wine.  Unlike hearing someone lecture about the importance of pruning and crop size in the Spring or the burning of cuttings in Europe after the harvest, you can see for yourself and practically experience them through these superb photos.

My favorite scene, the one that gets you thinking, is on p 80-81. In it, there’s a woman in the vineyards, likely a worker, but maybe the owner, she’s surrounded by vines with full clusters but is looking up at the dark ominous clouds heading her way. We’ll never know if it rained, hailed, or passed over. 

Another one depicts 10 workers bending over in the vineyards of Champagne Roederer as they prune and thin the shoots which will have an impact on the harvest months later.

Cultivating vines, as this book shows, also involves many aspects of nature. Butterflies are important, so are horses in ploughing some vineyards, and then roses are often grown to warn growers of possible diseases. And, yes, bats can be employed to discourage hunting moths from ruining the clusters. In some regions birds have to be discouraged by netting. Then there are some healthy, helpful pigs working the vineyards of Bairrada, Portugal.

 What makes this book so compelling is that the photos come from different sources, so there’s  different perspectives along the way. A number are from Bob Chaplin and Sophie, a few from Jon Wyand, and others from independent photographers as well as from wine producers. 

And the vineyard scenes are also eclectic, ranging all over the wine map. No favorites or pay back here! 

This book will answer lots of questions.

The book is of course available from Amazon. 

Better yet, signed copies are available at: 

https://www.sophiemenin.com/store/p/a-year-in-the-vineyard

Discover the Hidden Gems of Fort Ross Vineyard

People living on the edge, the bet it all risk takers, and even those simply taking the less traveled road are exceptions in today’s wine world. Because they don’t follow conventional wisdom or marketing trends, these outliers can be exciting to follow. And when they succeed, they can come up with brilliant wines. But by going against the grain they risk going unnoticed, flying way under the radar of wine writers, somms, and influencers. 

Well, this writer was lucky to have been directed to one of those wineries by a good friend, and after tasting through the wines, I’m going to blow through the cloud cover and shine the spotlight on a great discovery: Fort Ross Vineyard.

In 1988, when phylloxera was beginning to take its toll in the North Coast wine regions, Lester and Linda Schwartz purchased a large slice of rugged land on a steep coastal ridge above the Pacific Ocean near the historic Russian settlement of Fort Ross. In 1994 they established Fort Ross Vineyard and made their first wine in 2000.

First, the Vineyard Story

 South African natives who had immigrated to the San Francisco Bay Area in the 1970s, they appreciated  fine wine and food and were convinced the site was suitable for growing wine grapes. Located 5 miles north of Jenner, their land is literally along the Coast of Sonoma. As an AVA, the “Sonoma Coast” extends inland and includes parts of Carneros, Russian River Valley  and the so-called Petaluma Gap. The land they were considering turning into a vineyard, however, would be the closest in California to the Pacific Ocean.

So, to review, 1988 was not the best of times for venturing into winemaking and the site sitting above and less than a mile in from the Ocean had not yet been explored.  There were many risks but the elevations of these potential vineyards range dramatically from 1,200 to 1,700 feet, or just above the coastal fog.

In 1991 Lester ordered two dozen dormant rootstocks, and when the initial plantings proved successful, the couple expanded their experiment, planting a test vineyard with 16 varieties, three trellis systems, assorted clones and several rootstocks. 

When all of the extensive trials were evaluated, they developed a vineyard  which now consists of four varieties: Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Chenin Blanc and Pinotage.  No surprise with the first two; Sonoma Coast Chardonnay and Pinot Noir were made famous by the likes of Marcassin, Flowers, Hirsch, and Peter Michael  But their vineyards are hidden away inland, not along the riskier coast.  

And although both Chenin Blanc and Pinotage are popular in South Africa, no one else, except  native South Africans, would even think about planting them in California. Chenin Blanc had fallen out of favor by 1991 and there was nowhere you could obtain Pinotage vines. 

Not a problem for them. They sourced Pinotage budwood from two of the finest sites in South Africa, and became the first independent growers to import grapevine cuttings from there through the Foundation Plant Services that operates alongside the U.C. Davis School of Viticulture and Enology. 

Then when they laid out their vineyard, they didn’t take the easy way of uniformity. Instead, the Fort Ross Seaview Vineyard comprises 32 vineyard blocks over 53 planted acres, with each block varying in size from approximately one-half to two acres each.  Having 32 blocks is not the easy way to plant, to tend, and to harvest for sure. 

But each block is based upon a carefully selected clone and rootstock for the variety. The vineyard is planted with heritage clones and field selections, which generally produce low yields with small bunches and berries that deliver very distinct wines.  

  • Pinot Noir – Calera, Pommard, Swan, Dijon clones 115 and 777
  • Chardonnay – Old Hyde, Wente, 
  • Pinotage – Proprietary clones MM1, MM3 from South African budwood

Now for the Wines

Fort Ross Vineyard Seaview Sonoma Coast Pinotage 2019 $62

If you’re unfamiliar with Pinotage, here’s a great place to start. Created by crossing Pinot Noir with Cinsault, Pinotage led the way to the revival of winemaking in South Africa. At the time, Cinsault was associated with Hermitage which explains the “tage” in the name. This rendition from Fort Ross is a stunning example.  

After the fruit was hand harvested in early October of 2019, winemaker Jeff Pisoni aged the wine for 12 months in 20% new French oak and bottled it unfined and unfiltered. In the glass this wine is quite dark in color with an intriguing aroma that leans slightly toward the earthy Rhone side with berry fruit, green tea and cassis. On the palate it is vibrant and energized with black plum, spice and tea leaf flavors that are supported by velvety tannins. Finishes with good length, suggesting this would reward lengthy cellaring. Not to sound corny, but it does capture the earthiness of a Rhone and the velvety smooth texture of a Pinot. Who knew?  360 cases made 94

Fort Ross Vineyard  Fort Ross-Seaview Sonoma Coast, Chenin Blanc 2023 $44

Popular decades ago and made in a slightly sweet style, Chenin Blanc rarely gets anyone’s attention these days and few people know that it can yield an excellent dry wine.  Cool climate Chenin Blanc is rare in California with most acreage now in warm sites. In its third vintage of estate grown Chenin Blanc, Fort Ross came up with an extraordinary rendition. It  brings together concentration, energy, complexity in a seamless package. 

In the glass it is light yellow with a healthy green tint and the Initial assertive aroma asserts itself in a combination of lemon meringue and fresh pear. With airing, the aroma takes on some ginger spice and melon. On the palate it is medium bodied with concentrated flavors of lemon and stone fruits. From start to finish it is solidly structured and remains lively on the palate. With its crisp acidity, the flavors continue to a crisp finish with background notes of honeysuckle and bosc pear fruit. Unquestionably one of the finest Chenins in my experience, the wine was made by Jeff Pisoni who aged 80% of the wine in neutral French oak for seven months and bottled it unfiltered. 100 cases made. 95

And Now Bring On the Clones

Fort Ross Vineyard Stagecoach Road Fort Ross-Seaview Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir 2022 $80

This pitch perfect Pinot is from two clones (Calera and Pommard) planted on steep hillsides overlooking the Pacific Ocean. Early spring rains during flowering reduced the crop in 2022 and at the harvest the berries were unusually small. That comes across once the wine is poured and the color is a deep garnet. Initial scents of cranberry and plum with anise are a bit reticent, but with airing and swirling, black cherry, tea and toasty oak scents emerge. 

Smooth and silky on the palate, it offers concentrated flavors of cherry and earthy, forest floor that are bright and charming with very light tannins. Youthful and balanced, it was showing even greater harmony a day later, indicating a long future lies ahead. But can be enjoyed whenever the mood hits.  230 cases.  94

Fort Ross Vineyard The Terraces Fort Ross-Seaview Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir 2022 $80

Pinot lovers should make room in their cellars for this one. From a low yielding vintage, this Pinot was made from a vineyard block planted entirely to the Calera clone, and the wine was aged for 11 months in French oak, 40% new. Known for its small berries, high acidity and solid frame, the Calera clone is often a key component in multi-clone Pinots. 

Once poured, this ‘22  gets your attention with its lovely ripe plum and raspberry aroma, and the palate impression also makes it stand out with its bright cherry flavors along with definite oak spice and youthful acidity. Concentrated with some tannic grip, this one is for the cellar and, with aging, it should be outstanding. 250 cases made 94-95

For the Final Touch: Chardonnay

Not surprisingly, the Fort Ross Chardonnay is not your Rombauer’s  buttery, oaky, commercial stuff.  To begin with, the  clones planted are the Went and Hyde  field selections, seldom seen these days. Grown in the coastal, breezy climate, the vines in 2022 yielded a small crop.

But once poured, the ‘22 Chardonnay announces its individuality with its unusual yellow color. Then the aroma is fresh and vibrant with lovely apple, and lemon as it expands.

On the palate the apple and stone fruit flavors are concentrated and sustained right through a long finish. It also is one of the very few Chardonnays that will reward cellaring which became apparent when it showed great complexity 24 hours after being opened.

So there you have it. 

Go to http://www.fortrossvineyard.com to get on their mailing list. 

You can purchase new releases at a 10% discount and don’t have to be club members.

Also, they now have a line of wines called Sea Slopes to supply top restaurants and wine shops in select markets around the country.

Sea Slopes wines are made by the same winemaker using the estate vineyards.

Going On and On About Roussanne

Roussanne is a white wine that is full of promise. It is a challenge to grow, but winemakers and vineyard owners are on a sharp learning curve.

Here are two textbook examples:

Truchard Vineyards Carneros, Napa Valley Estate Bottled Roussanne 2023 $30
One of the first to make a Roussanne in California, Truchard planted 3 acres back in 1998. Over the years the Truchards have learned how to deal with the variety’s many challenges. In 2023, they harvested Roussanne in early November, and fermented the juice in French oak barrels (20% new). As the wine aged on the lees for 6 months, it was frequently stirred and went through a partial malolactic fermentation. Showing some green in its light yellow color, the wine opens up and is both vibrant and full flavored.  Nectarine and apricot fruit aromatics lead the way and pick up subtle jasmine and a touch of oak with swirling.  Medium full-bodied, the wine is smooth and continues with flavors of peach, apricot and citrus which are delivered with a hint of minerality and firming acidity. Layered and balanced, it is solid now and should peak in 3-4 years.  94

Peter William Vineyard Rogue Valley (Oregon) Roussanne 2024 $28.50 Roussanne Is a challenge to grow, and the winery made a few viticultural changes in its estate vineyard. In 2024 those changes paid off and resulted in a vibrant, textured wine. Harvested in mid-october at a relatively low Brix of 22.8, this Roussanne was barrel fermented and aged for 5 months in neutral French oak. Straw colored, it offers an attractive aroma of white peach with hints of ginger and jasmine for added intrigue. Medium-bodied and smooth in texture, the wine remains vibrant with rich flavors of peach and some honeyed notes. The finish is long and lively with some of that ginger spice showing up in the aftertaste. 93

If you love hearing about winemakers who think out of the box, well then read on. Founded by Sue Tipton, Acquiesce Winery & Vineyards is a white wine specialist in Lodi. You heard right, Lodi white wines only. The story goes that when vacationing in the Rhone Valley, she tasted a white Châteauneuf-du-Pape and that changed everything. Not long afterwards, she researched the white varieties, discovered Tablas Creek and its nursery, and, well, uprooted her Zinfandel vineyard and went full on white rhones. At Acquiesce today she offers wines made from Picpoul Blanc, Grenache Blanc, Roussanne, Viognier, Bourboulenc, and Clairette Blanche as well as several blends.

She was the first in California to plant the Bourboulenc variety and has not backed down when dealing with the white Rhone problem child, Roussanne.  But to those winemakers who love a challenge, it can be rewarding.

Acquiesce Winery & Vineyards Mokelumne River, Lodi Roussanne 2022 $41

The 2022 Acquiesce Roussanne is a perfect example of the multi-faceted white. Harvested in late august from the estate’s 2 acres, this Roussanne  is incredible in many ways. It keeps changing in the glass as it airs, and in the final analysis, is nuanced and balanced. The medium yellow color has a youthful green edge. The initial aroma of peach and jasmine takes on a hint of honeysuckle and tea.  On the palate it is medium full-bodied, soft and smooth in texture, and the flavors of peach and green tea also have a mineral, chalky back taste. There’s just enough acidity to add to the finish which still has a fresh fruit and chalky aftertaste. Entirely stainless steel fermented and lees aged, it can be matched with your favorite white wine main course.  94 points

Roussanne is known to improve with cellaring, so this 2022 will be fascinating to try again in a few years.

And here is proof positive that it ages well indeed:

Domaine de la Terre Rouge Sierra Foothills (California) Roussanne 2005 

From the winery’s cellar courtesy of Bill Easton. The color here is medium yellow but with some lively green glints. Don’t let the “old” look mislead you because this wine is still very much alive. The aroma is a combination of nectarine and candlewax with some citrus and green tea subtleties. Concentrated with layers and layers of flavors, the wine offers a silky smooth, creamy texture through bottle aging. Ii has developed some pear and honey flavors and a touch of almond but it is all seamless and harmonious at this stage. Finishes long and lively. What a treat to experience how well Roussanne responds to cellaring. It held up well when tasted a day later. Amazing wine.

 

Also, see my  other reviews of  Roussannes at http://www.winereviewonline.com

Sales Alert!

At Tooth & Nail which is one of my favs. Great wines from Paso and the Central Coast.

Shop at  toothandnailwine.com

Here you go:

“We are opening our warehouse for a major sale of all of our wines.

All of our wines are now 40% off and if you’re a member with us, you’ll receive an additional 10% off, making all of our wines 50% off for our members.

Since our tasting room is closed, this is an online offer only with complimentary shipping on orders of $100 or more.”

While supplies last. All sales are final.

For reviews, see the reviews at winereviewonline.com

I love the Syrahs and gave one of their Grenache a score of 97 points!

There are several different labels, such as:

Amor Fati: Syrah, Grenache, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, all from cool climates.

For me, these 4 were love at first taste. All scored 92 points or higher. See reviews at 

http://www.winereviewonline.com

 Stasis: Pinot Noir from Santa Maria and a Viognier. Both excellent.
Destinata: Drink now, no fanfare Chenin Blanc, Riesling, and Syrah. All good. All fun. Especially the drink-now style Syrah. The dry Riesling and Chenin will surprise you.

Tasting Well-Aged Cult Wines 

 

As 2024 was coming to an end, I had an opportunity to taste two aged Napa Valley cult wines.  They were the Bond 2007 Pluribus and the 2011 The Mascot. Both belong to the father of cult wines, Bill Harlan of Harlan Estate. 

Just to make sure I got a good fix on the aging trajectory of these two, the bottles before me were half bottles, 375ml. There’s no argument that wine ages faster in half-bottles, we just don’t know how much faster. Both bottles before me had excellent levels of fill, and the corks were in excellent condition. There was some sediment on both corks. Those signs usually indicate the wines were properly cellared.

Parker’s Wine Advocate rated the 07 Pluribus 98+ and the Spectator gave it a 97.  From Parker’s notes, it was  “A wine of great intensity and full-bodied power yet with a freshness and delineation that are remarkable, this stunning wine should drink well for 25-30 years. Drink: 2010-2040.” 

The Wine Spectator reported: “Wonderful aromatics lead to a rich, layered mix of spicy currant, blackberry, wild berry and currant flavors that are full-bodied, intense, dense and concentrated, slow to reveal pleasing earth, black licorice, graphite and roasted herb. The tannins give the flavors great traction. To be released spring 2011. Best from 2012 through 2024. 566 cases made. “ 

Yes, both publications were reviewing the wine several months before it was released to the public.  That both these guys were given special treatment might explain the use of words like “stunning” and “wonderful” as some sort of indirect payback for advanced review samples. 

To return to the wines, here are my notes for the 07 Pluribus:

Good dark color.  With aeration, the nose was vague and with diligent swirling showed dried prune, a hint of tobacco, and walnut. Overall, it smelled like old wine. The body was smooth and the flavors were gentle. But the wine was going gently into that good night for sure. 

It would not surprise me to hear the Pluribus is now over the hill in a standard bottle. The value given it by wine-searcher is $525. Then again, people who pay that kind of money for a bottle are not likely to ever say they were disappointed if only to protect their ego and reputation.  As for some background, the Bond Pluribus which debuted in 2003  is from a  mountainous 7-acre site in the Spring Mountain District with steep exposures to the north, east and southeast. It comes with a high price and wine pedigree and was sold only to members  on a mailing list.

Among Harlan’s other wine projects is  “The Mascot” which was the brainstorm of his son, Will.  This wine was a Cabernet made from a selection of younger vines from the primary estate vineyards, and The Mascot made its debut in 2008. As I understand it, The Mascot was made from a selection of new vines created by the routine replanting procedure. The concept is similar to the way many of Bordeaux’s famous estates produce wine from young vines and they are known as “second label” wines. 

In 2018, Decanter Magazine reviewed the 2011 The Mascot and the description is interesting. I was intrigued by the last line: “2011 was a relatively cool year, which gives the wine its freshness. The nose is vibrant and seductive, with blackcurrant aromas. Sumptuous and concentrated on the palate, it’s also sustained by firm tannins and sufficient acidity. The finish is robust and long, and although intended to be drunk on release, it will certainly age.”

So seven years after the vintage and after being bottle aged for five years,  The 2011 Mascot seemed to have surprised the Brits, even though they awarded it only 92 points, as capable of further cellaring. The current vintage is priced from $125 a bottle on up, and according to wine-searcher, you can buy the 2011 for the same price at several retailers in the UK.

Of the two wines I tasted, The Mascot was more attractive and in much better condition. Even in a half-bottle, it opened up with airing and displayed a delicate aroma or bouquet of dark fruit and dried herbs. It was soft and harmonious on the palate and had just a touch of velvety tannin left that carried through in the aftertaste. It is 4 years younger and tasted younger. But on its own, it may have been more exciting to taste in 2018. 

The Takeaways

Tasting old wines is an experience that should never be passed up, but often it is not a pleasurable experience. 

Not all wines get better with age is an old saying but even those capable of aging dont always reward long term cellaring. 

With aged wine, it often turned out that each individual bottle ages differently. This I’ve learned over the years: two bottles from the same case in the same cellar  can and often do, taste different. Wine is full of surprises, both pleasant and disappointing.

As for wine reviewers suggesting a wine’s aging capability is a sign of greatness, it is at best a guess. People like Parker and many Somms today pump themselves up believing they have a special gift.  

Maybe they should heed Mark Twain’s view: “It is difficult to make predictions, especially about the future.”