Now with the crazy days of holiday shopping hype coming at us from every direction, the major online wine retailers and wine merchants are also doing their best to get our attention.
Although these Prime, Cyber, Black Friday and what have you holiday sales are now an annual event, lots of circumstances have changed over the last 2 years. People in general are much more focused on soaring prices of eggs and gasoline, or whatever their reference point may be.
The phrase “sticking to a budget” is now heard in so many circles.
Because wine sales have trailed off over the last 2 years or so, these holiday sales will be closely watched. As of now, wine prices haven’t spiraled because tariffs haven’t made an impact on prices.
The fact is that there is a glut or over-supply of wines and we have seen the number of wine producers entering the discount world increase as many once solid wineries feel the need to reduce prices to move inventory.
Wine is different from eggs and gas because it is a discretionary product, meaning not vital or necessary. Well, to all but a few of us. If there has been a lesson those in the wine biz should have learned over the last two years as wine sales dipped, it is that non-snobby wine lovers are really no different than other consumers and now realize a need to be extra careful about sticking to a wine budget. That often means having a target maximum price or price point when buying wine.
What’s Going on in Online Wine Sales
When previewing t several of the Black Friday deals, I can’t help but notice the many luxury or cult wines that are over $100 a bottle are now being offered at deep discounts. Online seller winespies.com offered the 2020 Caymus Special Selection at $147 ($225 regular price), vivino.com announced a culty Chardonnay for $34.99, regular price $90, while lastbottle.com featured a Pouilly-Fuise for $34, regularly $100. Another site had the 2018 Beringer Reserve Cabernet at $87.50, roughly 50% off. Earlier this week there was a “sale” of the 2022 Joseph Phelps Insignia, which retails for $350-$400 at $195 a bottle.
Don’t know about you, but to me even these discounted prices still are not budget-friendly. High ratings and non-stop hype are behind so many of these exorbitant prices. Some might argue that many wines priced in the 3 digit range are on allocation or enjoy a cult following. Then one wonders why some are offered online to begin with and often at deep discounts. We’ll probably never get a consistent explanation, but that shouldn’t stop us from shopping the sales.
Insider Tips for Savvy Wine Shoppers
One great website to find truly fine and reasonably priced wines is wtso.com What stood out to me is that its Black Friday sales on November 28-29 has an end of the year Clearance Sale. While it continues with its daily flash sale, wtso has many attractive, highly rated wines in its clearance sale. With a few bottles priced at $11.99, the list is heavy in Italian wines but also has something for every wine drinker. At $19.99 a bottle, you can buy the 2024 Calculated Risk Cabernet, the 2021 Havens Cellars Red Blend, and the 2022 Left Coast Cellars Willamette Valley Pinot Noir. An Old Vine Lodi Zinfandel topped the list of the $11.99 specials.
Wine Access is another website that has dozens of great wines for the budget minded Black Friday shopper. At wineaccess.com the sale works by knocking an extra 20% off their already discounted prices. For example the 2022 Zinfandel from Marietta Cellars is listed for $25, but with the added discount sells for $20 a bottle.THe extra discount is applied at check out.
Those wines that stood out to me before the discounts are the Three Wine Company Old Vine Field Blend ($28), Meeker 2022 Grenache ($22), 2023 Lang & Reed Cabernet Franc ($29), 2022 La Vigne Paso Robles Merlot ($21) and a San Luis Obispo Chardonnay from Oceano Vineyards( $18). Others are the Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from Oregon’s Solena Estate. And if you like wines from Australia, Argentina, and France, wineaccess.com has something for you at Black Friday prices.
Another site pushing its Black Friday sales also with a large inventory is wineexpress.com A few caught my attention, especially the J. Dusi Cabernet “The Don” from Paso at $22.49. J. Dusi is a favorite of mine. Also, there’s the Rutherford Ranch Chardonnay for $13.47 and a Reverdy 2021 Cotes du Rhone for $7.47.
The California Wine Club, one of the oldest, has announced its Black Friday 50% off sale. The sale will continue through Sunday. At $12.50 the 2022 Armida Zinfandel from Dry Creek and the Eden Rift Sauvignon Blanc, also at $12.50 are excellent deals. The full list is worth checking out at cawineclub.com
When the Dust Settles
These holiday sales will likely be extended way beyond the holidays, but they will end. Most of these are flash sales, daily deals or one-time only sales which not everyone is comfortable with because of the need to act quickly.
With the crazy days of holiday shopping hype coming at us from every direction, all the major online wine retailers and wine merchants are also doing their best to get our attention. If there has been a lesson learned over the last two years as wine sales dipped, it is that wine lovers are really no different than other consumers and now realize they need to be extra careful about sticking to a budget.
When word got out that the average price of a Napa Valley wine was $108 a bottle, normal people probably explored alternatives. If you count yourself among the budget minded, normal people then let me share my latest wine shopping discovery. Though I’ve been following it for years, Paso Robles has emerged as a leader when it comes to quality for the price.
Paso Robles remains one of the most energized and dynamic wine regions even in these difficult times. At least it is to me. Paso Robles came alive back in 1998 when the Rhone Rangers began holding their annual event there which was followed up in 2010 by the annual Garigists wine festival. Though once just a lonely way station midway between San Francisco and LA, Paso has also come on strong as a tourist destination. And here in 2025 there’s lots of excitement in the hotel and culinary scenes.
With so many possible story angles staring at me, one that caught my eye during a recent trip to the SoCal Coast was the way so many Paso Robles wines are beginning to dominate wine lists and special deals in wine shops. We’re talking high end restaurants, sommelier-managed wine lists.
Que Pasa Paso?
Why? Beyond quality and availability, the one pattern that emerged is that the trend setting wineries in Paso know how to hit today’s magic price point. When looking back over my recent tasting notes, it was amazing to see so many of my Paso favorites selling for around $25 a bottle or less. My gut feeling is that today’s savvy wine shoppers see $25 as the top price that fits their budget. Maybe $29.99 if a wine strikes them as exceptional.
The Paso Players
The Paso wineries I see as major players in this trend are a mix of well-established names like Ancient Peaks and J. Lohr and newcomers. A few others belong to major marketing companies, and many are your Mom & Pop family folks. Most of the wines are red which is no big surprise. Overall, when you visit the Tin City wineries or many others, the energy level and enthusiasm is reminiscent of Napa before 2000. Paso has become a magnet for creative maverick winemakers and outliers. Just recently Napa’s Tank Garage Winery joined the Paso scene. Check it out and you’ll get my point.
As for wines, Paso was noted early on for Petite Sirah, Zinfandel and the Rhones, and these are all included in the price point $25 club. But Cabernets, Bordeaux blends and other creative blends are well-represented and seem to be replacing Napa wines on many wine lists and also in the minds of many wine lovers.
So now that we’ve plugged in the destination on our map, “let’s go” to the top Paso wines hovering around the $25 price point.
First Stop: Petite Sirah and Zinfandel
Peachy Canyon Paso Robles (California) Petite Sirah 2021 $20
Best known for its bold Zinfandels, Peachy Canyon also has a good track record for Petites in a rich but supple style. Deep dark in color, this 2021 offers an aroma of sweet black fruit and fig along with some dried herbs. It turns plush and smooth on the palate driven by a solid core of blackberry flavors and light oak. It finishes long and seamless. With its lovely silky texture and subtle oak notes, it is well-knit and ready to drink now. 90
Brady Vineyards Paso Robles Petite Sirah 2021 $20
After honing his winemaking skills in Texas, Don Brady went West to work for Robert Hall in Paso Robles. In 2006 he acquired a 24 acre vineyard and began focusing on Paso red wines.
If you like Paso Petite, Brady checks all of the boxes. His 2021 was aged in French oak for 18 months. Dark in color, it has that intense, ripe blackberry aroma with some black pepper that sets the varietal apart. Full-bodied with concentrated flavors of blackberries, boysenberries and some vanilla bean, it is tight and concentrated on the palate with light tannin and oak. More powerful than nuanced, but fairly well-mannered, it could benefit from a little cellaring to soften. But with decanting, it would serve you well as a complement to most smoked meats and, to me, especially with osso buco. Also, a good value. 90
The Big, Red Monster Lot #2 Paso Robles, Zinfandel $20
Yes, here’s a Paso red wine that boasts about being big. Now owned by War Room Cellars based in San Luis Obispo, this brand began in 2005 as a partnership between winemakers Bob Pepi (formerly of Robert Pepi winery) and Jeff Booth (formerly of Conn Creek). The brand was relaunched in 2019 and aimed at a market that loves big and powerful wines. Promoted as a “savage beast,” this Lot #2 is Zinfandel blended with Petite Sirah and Tannat. After an extended maceration “for bigger extraction,” it was aged in French and American oak, 20% new. While definitely big, ripe and juicy, it offers an attractive aroma of blackberry and pepper with some spiciness. On the palate it is round but ultra soft and has enough fruitiness to keep the tannin and alcohol at bay. 91
Next, let’s move on to Syrah
McPrice Myers Central Coast (California) Right Hand Man Syrah 2023 $ 20
Headquartered in Paso Robles, this winery enjoyed a cult-like following for its red wines. They usually are given unusual names like “High on the Hog” and “Right Hand Man.” Blending Central Coast fruit, winemaker Mac Myers crafts this well-rendered Syrah that offers depth and approachability at a very attractive price. Aged 10 months in neutral oak, it has a lovely aroma of ripe plum with secondary fragrances of pepper, spice and leather. Nothing overdone or funky here, this Syrah is rich and smooth on the palate delivering savory flavors of fresh berries, plums and spice. The tannins are soft and add roundness to the texture. Syrah lovers should keep a bottle of this “Right Hand Man” close at hand. Wine lovers should check out this winery. 92
Ancient Peaks Winery Paso Robles, Santa Margarita Ranch Renegade 2020 $26
With its “Renegade” blend, Ancient Peaks has been successful in working with Paso Syrah to come up with an attractive drink now red. I like the way it tones down the gamey, meaty side of Syrah but still emphasizes its fruit. In 2020 the final blend was 67% Syrah, 27% Petit Verdot and 5% Malbec. The individual components are cold soaked and after fermentation they are aged for 20 months in French and American oak, 20% new. Dark in color, the wine shows a pleasing mix of Syrah’s dark fruit along with subtle fresh berries. It continues with this combination and adds some coffee and oak toast and spice in the flavors. Nicely structured with modest tannins, it finishes with simple fruit and good length. Excellent all-purpose red. 90
Turning to The Main Event: Cabernets
Daou Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Paso Robles 2021 $25
This dark, ripe and juicy Cabernet is made for those who like it plump and chunky. The aroma of dark, ripe fruit with hints of anise and dried herbs sets you up for a big, rich mouthfilling wine with light toasty oak and tannins providing structure. With some airing the flavors open to reveal nuances of black tea and berry fruit before the youthful tannins are picked up to carry this to its rugged, sturdy finish.This full-bodied Cab is a blend of 83% Cabernet with 9% Petite Verdot and a splash of Merlot and it was aged for 10 months in 50% new French oak. It is a lot of wine for the money. 91
Groundwork Wine is a new line of wines from Curt Schalchin of Sans Liege which is noted for its high-end Rhone blends. With Groundwork, he focuses on good value varietal wines from Paso Robles and this 2023 Cabernet confirms that Paso Robles is the real deal for great value Cabs. This 2023 is made from three vineyards within Paso, and the wine, blended with 12% Petit Verdot, was aged in neutral oak for 18 months. Bottled unfined and unfiltered, it delivers plenty of ripe black fruit with hints of black pepper and bay leaf. With light tannin, it is firmly structured and has an aftertaste of black cherry and spice. Enjoy now through 2028. 92
Andrew Jones, winemaker for Field Recordings and Curt Schalchlin, owner of Sans Liege combine their talents for the Fableist collection of wines. The names are based on Aesop’s Fables, and apparently, judging from the label, fable #373 is about ants and bugs. Or whatever! Moving on to the wine, in the 2022 vintage the fruit was picked earlier than usual due to the heat wave. Fermented in tanks and aged in American oak barrels, 10% new, the final blend was 85% Cabernet filled out by Merlot, Malbec, Petit Verdot and Petite Sirah. Once poured, this wine shows fresh blackberry and currant aromas and flavors with youthful tannin poking through. With aeration, it slowly opens and adds a little spice and cedar to accompany the juicy dark fruits. Needs time to settle down and should be decanted. A good value for a Paso Cab. 90
Part of the Riboli family’s expanding portfolio, Maddalena offers white wines from Monterey and reds from the estate vineyards in Paso Robles. Blended with 5% Petit Verdot and 5% Cabernet Franc, this Cabernet was partially aged (45%) in small oak. It is all about ultra ripe black fruit such as black cherry and plum in aroma and flavor. Medium full bodied, it comes across as plush on the palate with plenty of tannin and oak spice. It finishes on a slight tannic note.
Overall this is an attractive fruit-forward Cabernet for current drinking. 89
Paso D’Oro is a relatively new brand created by the Terlato family which owns prime properties like Chimney Rock, Rutherford Hill, Sanford among others. This 2023 was sourced from 4 AVAs within Paso, and the wine was aged in neutral oak and blended with 24% Petite Sirah. Deep and dark in the glass, it opens quickly with attractive black fruit with accents of clove and spice. Quite full bodied with rich flavors supported by velvety tannins. Smooth finish. With loads of terrific ripe fruit, pleasing texture, and some complexity, this is a great choice for current enjoyment. 91
This is an old review, but it is from the winery that ignited my interest in Paso Cabernets.This vintage was presented in a unique bottle that requires a detailed background explanation and an APP to download. But the wine inside is first-rate and a wonderful example of Paso Cabernet. Saying it “reinvented the wine label,” the winery created an augmented reality label that with the app will sing to you. Literally sing, honest. From its deep purple color to its rich, ripe aromatics, this wine sings on its own. Initial aromas of chocolate and spice give way to ripe blackberry and oak spice. It is big-bodied with a smooth unctuous texture. The flavors remain focused on ripe black fruit with dusty oak tannin in the background. The finish is long with good acidity keeping it balanced throughout. The current vintage is 2022 and sells for $28.
Quest Austin Hope Winemaker, Paso Robles Cabernet Franc 2023 $23
The “Quest” label is the Hope family’s long-term commitment to Paso Cabernet Franc, and prior vintages contained some % of Cab Sauvignon. This is the first vintage made entirely from Cab Franc. The majority of the fruit sourced for the 2023 Quest Cabernet Franc was from the Creston District, Future vintages will also incorporate fruit from the Highlands District and Adelaida District. You don’t need a SOMM course to recognize this is Cab Franc. The aroma is a textbook combination of plums, dried herbs and tobacco leaf. Medium bodied and solid, it is lively with plum and licorice flavors. Some briary tannins give a little push to the finish. Sort of like a footballer’s “tush push.” A red to enjoy with grilled meats and rich pastas. 90
J Lohr Wines Paso Robles Los Osos Merlot 2022 $15
This Merlot is hard to beat at this price. J.Lohr’s Merlot is planted in the relatively cool El Pomar District. Blended with a big splash of Malbec (10%) and a dash of Cabernet Franc (5%), this 2022 was aged for 12 months in American oak. In an approachable and lively style, it opens with an aroma of fresh plums and light spice. Medium bodied and balanced, it offers plum and cherry flavors in a smooth package. Not flashy, just easy to enjoy.
WHITES
Sans Liege Wines Central Coast Cotes du Coast 2023 $20
Based in Paso Robles, winemaker Curt Schalchlin is a noted Rhone wine specialist. But as evidenced by his artsy labels and unconventional wine descriptions, he does things differently. Sourcing from some of the best known vineyards in Santa Barbara and elsewhere, he assembled this blend of 36% Viognier, 32% Marsanne, 17% Clairette, 11% Roussanne, and 4% Grenache Blanc. All but the Grenache are barrel fermented by native yeasts and lees aged in French oak. But the wine is, surprisingly given its composition, a smooth, subtle and lively ready to drink white. It immediately gets your attention with fresh peach, lemon and honeysuckle aromas. Medium bodied, nicely textured and vibrant, it offers stone fruit flavors and has a long finish that is neither bitter nor acidic. Charming and fun to drink and nicely priced to boot.
92
Ancient Peaks Winery Paso Robles Santa Margarita Ranch Sauvignon Blanc 2023 $18
Made from the coolest blocks within the family’s estate vineyard, this 2023 also benefited from the relatively cool growing season. It is pale straw in color and shows plenty of vibrant fruit such as melon and pear along with light ginger and flintiness. Medium bodied, it continues with flavors of melon and lemongrass. In the crisp but lengthy finish, I pick up subtle hints of ginger and apple. Aged for 6 months in stainless, it makes a good case for unoaked Sauvignon Blanc and pairs well with a wide range of entrees. 91
One Stone Cellars Central Coast Rose of Pinot Noir 2024 $18
One Stone is a brand created by Ancient Peaks Winery in Paso to support mentoring programs for women venturing into the wine business. The label’s image projects moving mountains one stone at a time. From the estate vineyard in Paso and others in the Central Coast, this Rose is made 100% from Pinot Noir that was grown and harvested solely for Rose production. Aged 4 months in stainless steel, it is a big friendly wine that is all about fresh strawberry and juicy watermelon aromas and flavors. Smooth and round on the palate, it finishes with a touch of acidity to sustain its lively personality. 90
Wait, There’s More
The wines mentioned so far are good examples of the great deals from Paso Robles, but they are just a solid beginning.
The Harvey & Harriet label, associated with Booker Vineyards, offers an attractive Red Blend from Paso and a White Blend from San Luis Obispo. Both are priced below $25.
Another wine to check out is named Big, Bold Red. It is a blend of 50% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Syrah.
Highlands 41 is a new brand from the Riboli Family. Among the first to hit the market is its 2017 “Darkness,” Estate Reserve selling for $15.00
Wine is fun. Fun is learning about new wines and new wine regions, discovering a great wine and food combination, and sharing tasting experiences with others. We recently formed a wine tasting group which my wife innocently began describing as WTF, meaning wine tasting friends.
Many friends both in and outside the group have been wondering WTF is going on with all the bad news about the wine business. There is a worldwide downturn in the wine market. Sales are in a nosedive, including winery direct sales. Vineyards are being removed, and in the 2025 harvest, many vineyards in France and the West Coast were not harvested. The wine news is all so negative and for many in the business it has to be depressing for sure.
Unfortunately, the way most people in the wine biz are dealing with the downturn is to play the blame game. Gen-Zers, Millennials, fancy cocktails, anti-alcohol messages, inflation, stagnation, tariffs…the list goes on. All of this finger pointing does not change the fact that wine consumption is on a serious downward path.
Rather than looking for excuses and blaming outsiders, maybe the wine industry should look inward.
Looking Inward
In an open letter to his wine industry colleagues, Oded Shakked of Longboard Vineyards does just that and begins with this plea:
“Can we please stop blaming Millennials for not drinking enough wine?” He then says: “Millennials aren’t dumb” and goes on to make a case in some detail. His main point, one I agree with 100% is this:
“Maybe they don’t need a somm-certification; maybe they just need wine that doesn’t come with a lecture and a superiority complex.”
He concludes: Millennials aren’t killing wine. They’re killing the nonsense around it and they are not buying the “exclusivity” BS we have been selling for years.” You can read his entire letter on his Facebook page and on linkedin.
Now for the message that really resonated with me. Oded adds: “ Here’s a wild idea: maybe wine should go back to being enjoyable.”
Making Wine Fun Again
What a crazy idea which also happens to be another one I totally agree with. The reasons behind the downturn in wine sales are complicated for sure. Expanding on Oded’s thoughts, I think the perception of wine as a luxury item promoted by the corporate thinkers was a mistake. Restaurants happily went along with that and upped the price to often absurd levels, led by wine by the glass prices. $25 for a glass of Rombauer Chardonnay? No thanks, I’ll have a martini.
So how can wineries make wine fun again? Obviously, by getting off the high-minded exclusivity message and offering wines at reasonable prices. And then keep it simple by pushing the having fun message in marketing and promoting.
Face the Music and Dance
Exhibit A for me is a small winery that is expanding its “value line” of wines that focus on dancing:
Pedro Guillermo by Peter William “Syrah-Cha-Cha” Rogue Valley (Oregon) Syrah 2023 $19.50
This Cha-Cha wine joins the dance group kicked off by the “Tempranillo Tango.” The dance troupe includes “Robin’s Rumba.” All three wines are priced the same and convey the message that wine is fun and to be shared. It is a healthy message that needs to be re-affirmed. Thanks to Dr. Peter Adesman and his wife, Dr. Robin Miller, who is the inspiration behind these wines. That fun message comes through loud and clear with their dance-inspired line of wines.
As for the Cha-Cha wine, it is delicious. Made from the estate vineyard and blended with a splash of Tempranillo, it is an approachable Syrah, ready to be enjoyed now. The color is dark and the dark fruit and spicy aroma emerges quickly with a little swirling. It is smooth and plush on the palate with lively flavors and good balance. Yes, “swirling” is a hard word to avoid using here and good balance is key to success for both a wine and a dancer. 90
Pedro Guillermo by Peter William Rogue Valley (Oregon) Sauvignon Blanc 2024 $15
Though it doesn’t have a dance theme, this Sauvignon Blanc glides nicely across the palate.
With a little swirling, the aroma offers up citrus, green apple and a hint of grassiness. It is smooth and round on the palate and delivers plenty of ripe melon and apple flavors. Overall, this offers genuine Sauvignon Blanc character at an appealing price point. 88
Under the Peter William label, the winery offers a range of Rhone wines that are excellent values.
Peter William Vineyard Rogue Valley (Oregon) GSM 2023 $30
This is an attractive, vibrant GSM ready to be enjoyed now. Made from 37% Grenache, 42% Syrah, and 21% Mourvedre, it was aged 20 months in neutral french oak. The three components work seamlessly together as a team with the Grenache contributing raspberry and cherry aromatics, the Syrah adding depth and light pepper and spicy flavors, and the Mourvedre holding it all together while adding an earthy note. With soft tannins in the background, the lengthy finish is all about vibrant, delicious fruit.
91
Peter William Vineyard Rogue Valley (Oregon) Daisy Creek Vineyard Viognier 2024 $30
Another successful Viognier from the Daisy Creek Vineyard that captures all of the good things about Viognier and none of its excesses. This 2024 was fermented in neutral oak and aged on the lees for 4 months, and the lovely aroma combines lychee, honeysuckle with a hint of ginger.
Rich and smooth on the palate, the flavors charm you with their youthful melon and spice accents. The finish is crisp and mouthwatering.
Wait. Are any wine drinkers actually shopping these days or did Amazon train us all to stay home and let others think for us? Then there was Covid and now there’s Doordash delivering wines in some states. And subscription wine clubs are happy to deliver a box of unknown wines to your door. Oh well!
As 2025 winds down and the wine market faces a serious oversupply of wines, there’s never been a better time to shop around. Sure, the online retailers hustling wines at WTSO.com, lastbottle.com and the rest of the gang are now offering a wider range of wines. On November 11th, winelibrary.com is set to offer a variety of wines at the $11.11 a bottle price point. By then Trader Joe’s and Costco will surely have come up with some deals for the holidays.
But the most exciting sale this week is at Grocery Outlet which has about 500 stores across the country. Yes stores, as in places you drive to, check out the shelves, load up a cart, and pay at the registers. Sounds old fashioned to many of you, but most of us who love a wine bargain can adjust to it.
Yesterday, in a Grocery Outlet in Southern California, the shelves were practically falling over into the aisles. Piled high were wines from Cosentino, reds and whites. The 2023 Cosentino Sauvignon Blanc was excellent and sells for $11.99 a bottle. The winery’s website says that wine retails for $30 but is “out of stock.” But Grocery Outlet has it along with Cosentino’s Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Rose and others. It also has the Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon for $19.99 which you can buy direct from the winery for …$82.
Cosentino Vineyards developed a following for its Zinfandel,Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Sangiovese, but founder, Mitch Cosentino, sold the winery and is no longer involved. It is now part of the Foley Family portfolio, but the overall quality is still better than that of other once-famous brands now under corporate owners.
Back to my recent shopping adventure, Pinot Noir lovers should check their local Grocery Outlet to see if it stocks the 2021 Diora Pinot Noir from Monterey County. If you prefer Cabernet blends, then the 2019 Red Blend made by Lake Sonoma Vineyards is quite attractive. A few stores carry Napa Cabernet from Monticello Vineyards.
Yes, the offerings vary from store to store with Grocery Outlet. When it comes to bargain priced Bordeaux wines, I find Grocery Outlet is on a par with Trader Joe’s. Decent, everyday wines from Firestone and Sebastiani are sold at many Grocery Outlets.
Also, the end of the year is a good time to shop for Rose wines because wines from the most recent vintage are about to hit the market. Right now, Bonny Doon 2023 Rose, the Central Coast bottling, not the Vin Gris, is a safe bet.
Looking for “A wine club with “NO commitments, NO fees, NO cards on file, NO limited selections!”? Or how about a winery dedicated to offering you the “Best bang for your buck”? Well, I happened upon a winery that meets both of these requirements. My introduction to the winery was through its press release challenging other wineries to match its record of having every wine produced rated 90 points or higher.
Challenging other wineries was a clever and unprecedented way to get attention, and it obviously worked for me. But the emphasis on a wine club open to anyone and wines pitched for value was also attention-getting. Here was one winery flying way under the radar, my kind of winery.
But a wine club anyone can join is really not a club, is it? Could this be some kind of come on trying to unload mediocre wine, or the real deal?
Peirano Estate Vineyards is the winery and, as I learned through conversations and tastings, is the real deal. It also does things differently, goes against the grain and does so without swagger. Better yet, it tries to make the wine experience uncomplicated yet fun. A small winery with no hype about icons, no rockstar winemakers, no strict allocations and waiting lists, and no luxury priced wines?
Located in Lodi, Peirano Estate is family owned and it may be one of the oldest with vineyards established in 1885. The family’s history takes you through the ups and downs of farmers before, during and after Prohibition. Check it out at: www.peirano.com
The family farm now covers 300 acres and is in the hands of the fourth generation, Lance Randolph. He’s the guy behind the tractor, behind the wines and behind this novel wine club.
A Vineyard Guy
Lance Randolph is said to have been driving tractors up and down the vineyard at the age of six. In 1992, he ventured into winemaking, a transition made easy by being very familiar with the family vineyards. Today the Peirano vineyards are planted to Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Syrah, Viognier, and Petite Sirah. It also “has perhaps the largest single block of old, head-trained, natural rooted Zinfandel left in the state of California.” Lance adds, “Rather than destroy these beautiful old Lodi Zinfandel vines to make way for larger yielding, more economically advantageous vines, we have decided to harvest the meager 2 tons per acre production.”
With his viticultural background, that was not an impulsive decision. Lance has explored various training and harvesting methods and the winery’s website explains his vineyard management trials and applications in great detail. For example: “In the 1990s, Lance was one of the first to implement the Geneva Double Curtain system. This system, rather than using one cordon wire connecting the vines through the center, as done with the bilateral cordon system of the 1960s, splits the vine into two and uses two cordon wires spaced three feet apart. This method is highly advantageous for the estate Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot grapes.” Some of the Cabernet Sauvignon is 50 years old, but the Merlot acreage is newer, planted to six clones.
Anyway, after reading the very detailed background, the one point that sticks out to me is that having gone through numerous possibilities of vineyard management, he now prefers to hand harvest all varieties. That is unusual in Lodi or anywhere today.
An Uncomplicated Business Plan
To continue the theme of going against the grain or the norm, when it comes to selling Peirano wines, the winery favors one price fits all. Whether they be white or red, varietals or blends, barrel aged or not, all 15 wines are priced at $16 a bottle. Not only is that unusual, but the winery offers a mix and match case deal at 50% off, or $8 bucks a bottle. Shipping is a flat rate of $48. So add $4 and the bottle price is still a reasonable $12.
Why $16?
“We chose $16 per bottle because it reflects our goal of offering exceptional quality at an accessible price. Every bottle of our wine comes from estate-grown fruit—grapes we’ve farmed on our family’s Lodi vineyards for generations. The $16 price point allows us to maintain our hands-on approach in the vineyard and winery, using traditional techniques and sustainable practices, while still keeping our wines affordable enough for everyday enjoyment. It’s a balance between honoring the craftsmanship and heritage behind each bottle and ensuring our wines remain approachable to a wide range of wine lovers.”
So no surprise, the wine club is open to anyone, but how did this come about? Lance explains:
“I started the mix & match case offer over a decade ago when I realized that all tasting rooms were using a subscription model/wine club scenario. Call me old fashioned but I hate being forced to leave my credit card on file and be told what wine I had to try because the winery was trying to “unload” it on me! So I struggled for a long time to find a unique solution that eliminates all the wine club demands. It all came to our customer needs – they want to pick and choose what they want and get those “great” wine club discounts without all of the wine club requirements. Thus – our “family plan” was born and we actively say ‘ditch the wine club experience and try our novel approach to experiencing wine!’
Welcome to the “No Wine Club Zone”
Many people enter the”Zone” through the tasting room in Lodi. Visitors can select wines from all 15 or 16 wines available at the time. To sample five, the fee is…$10.
Most Peirano wines offered today are reds, either blends or varietals. Among the whites, the blended “Sea Enchantress” reviewed earlier is my favorite. The Chardonnay will appeal to those preferring the ripe apple and buttery style a la Rombauer.
The red wines range in style from simple and approachable to big, bold and cellar-worthy. The Six Clone Merlot stood out as the best red for everyday enjoyment, and the Malbec is also noteworthy in a drink-now style. With the currently available blends, you sense that the winemaker is using a splash of old vine Zin or old vine Cabernet as his not too secret sauces.
The first wine I tasted that contained some old vine Zin was the Red “Sea Enchantress.” Here’s my note:
Peirano Estate Vineyards, “The Sea Enchantress” Red Lodi (California) The Artist Series 2020 $16
So in this wine they combine Petite Sirah, Old Vine Zinfandel, Tempranillo and Syrah. Then it was aged in a combination of French and American oak, 15% new. The result? Well, it is not an in your face, power-packed fruit bomb. Dark in color, it has a beautiful aroma of black olive, licorice, with some blackberry and light oak toast. The ripe flavors offer lots of plum and light cinnamon supported by gentle tannins. Made in a big and approachable style, this is an absolute steal at this price. 92
After that initial encounter, little encouragement was needed for me to explore more Peirano wines. Of the several red blends reviewed here, the differences between one and another were not dramatic. But they are different, and fun to taste.
The family apparently has some fun with naming their wines. There’s “Immortal Zin” and “The Other,” along with “Sea Enchantress” and “Illusion,” both labels based on paintings by Alexis Randolph, representing the fifth generation. The 3 components for “The Other” Red are listed as”This,That, and The Other.” The back label adds the wine is “Sin-sually delicious.”
The following notes highlight two of my favs. But for reviews on many others:, go to winereviewonline.com
Peirano Estate Vineyards Lodi (California) Old Vine ”Immortal Zin” 2022 $16
Hand harvested from 120 year old, head prune vines, this is an amazing wine to taste. The deep, dark color and concentrated flavors are expected, but the pleasure here is in the ultra-smooth, velvety texture. Blackberry and strawberry are the central themes, but there’s a floral element that elevates the aroma. Some spice and juicy ripe fruit flavors along with an earthy background continue well into the juicy finish. There’s so much going on you aren’t aware that the wine is 15.5% in alcohol. 93
Peirano Estate Vineyards The Heritage Collection, Lodi (California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2022 $16
From 50 year old vines, this wine was fermented by 3 methods: static, cold soak and rotary fermentation. It was also given extended maceration time and oak aged for one year. It opens gradually to reveal an aroma of ripe plum and graphite along with a slight floral and spice touch. Medium full bodied with concentrated black fruit flavors, it comes across the palate as soft and smooth. With integrated tannins, this is one to enjoy over the next few years.The style is big and juicy with good Cabernet aromatics and flavors presented on a solid framework. 92
Wine lovers with an unquenchable thirst for wine knowledge should check out a new book. It is all about the past, present and future of Turkish wines. If you are a serious student of wine, this book will fill a big gap in your wine odyssey.
As Emmie, the author explains: “The exciting ride Turkish vignerons embarked on in the 1990s is continuing with passion.” And as we also learn in Turkish Wines: “The story of Turkish wine is still unfolding, and chapters are yet to be written.”
Several years ago, as I stood with glass in hand, a small group of visitors to the historic Guglielmo Winery in Morgan Hill were listening attentively to the origins and history of the Grignolino grape variety. Not only was the information conveyed with ease, and the tone struck was natural, not intimidating, and it was obvious the person behind the tasting room bar loved wine.
That was my first encounter with Emmie. While we talked later about Petite Sirah and other wines, I soon learned that Mehtap Emmie Turan was born and raised in Turkey.
Answering questions from winery visitors is not easy but it was the first step in her personal wine odyssey. After enrolling in numerous wine classes focusing on the wines of the world, and also traveling extensively throughout the wine world, she returned to her homeland to further her education.
Despite a history of winemaking going back 8,000 years, Turkey has been overlooked or cast aside by today’s wine journalist. Combining her passion for wine with her pride of country, Emmie set about to correct that.
Focused on “The Past, Present and Future, “ this book opens with a deep dive into the ancient history of grape growing and winemaking, guides you through the ups and downs of Turkish wines, especially over the last century, and leads you up to the still unfolding story of its wines today. But it is not only wine focused. No, this book is loaded with personal experiences, candid observations, and often returns to shine the spotlight on people, places, politics and religion.
With each major section, Emmie adopts the tone that best conveys the subject at hand. Only a scholarly tone can succeed in presenting the various possibilities of the birthplace of wine. When talking about the interaction between politics and religion that takes you up to and through the Ottoman Empire, well, that needs the neutral voice of a historian. There’s no sugar-coating when she addresses the past and present roadblocks, whether they be from politics, economics, or religion. For Turkish wine, it has been indeed a “tough row to hoe.”
Moving on to the resurgence of wine from the 1980s to the present, Emmie comfortably switches to the voice of the knowledgeable wine educator and wine lover. Sometimes she simply asks a question such as should Turkey’s major regions carve out AOCs like the French. Her breakdown of the different wine regions along with the profiles of the grape varieties, indigenous as well as international, will likely be part of a standard wine curriculum in the not too distant future.
Exploring Turkey’s primary wine regions is the heart of the book. As Emmie verbally escorts readers from one region to another, each section is full of first hand information about the wineries, the varieties grown there, and her personal travel notes to maximize a visit along each region’s wine routes. This part of the book comes across as your personal guide, recalling that naturally comfortable voice I overheard back at the tasting room in Morgan Hill.
I read her book in bits and pieces because there is so much to digest and so much to think about after each section. She opens topics up for discussion in her comments about charting a course, global opportunities, wine tourism, and niche marketing. Even her asides are thought provoking. Make sure to read her views on women in the wine business.
Finally, the beautiful photographs throughout this book leave no doubt that Turkey’s fascinating history, current wines and timeless beauty should be better known to all wine lovers.
And yes, I learned a lot from this book and was honored, when my friend Emmie asked me to write the Foreword.
Available at Amazon, but also direct from Mission View Press. Price is $36.99 with free shipping.
contact the author at missionviewpress@gmail.com
Payment by PayPal missionviewpress@gmail.com, Zelle missionviewpress
“The Best Wines of 2024” lists keep coming our way in December as each day another one pops up. The major publications like The Wine Spectator and the Wine Enthusiast magazines have been offering these Best of the Year lists for decades. Both recently announced their 2024 100 best wines. Though they try to make the announcements dramatic, both The Wine Spectator and the Wine Enthusiasts annual lists have lost whatever drama and sizzle they may once have had.
No surprise since by now most readers have figured out these lists are either payback for an advertiser or fodder for a PR campaign from the producer. Many of the wines are off the market by year’s end, so the lists are often not useful as buying guides.
What criteria are used to come up with the typical Best of lists is an interesting subplot. It seems that the major publications ask each reviewer for his or her candidates for best of the year. Scores on the 100 point system are a major consideration, but every so often a wine touted for great value makes the list. But it has to also be rated in the 90-94 point range, of course. I applaud the fact that the Enthusiast also publishes an annual list of great values.
Listicles
Lists have emerged as a popular format that has taken over the internet over the last decade. “Listicles” have replaced articles in a way. Probably because the number appears in the title or subject line and it sounds newsworthy. More likely, search engines love them.
Or most likely because a list is easy to compile, while articles need a thesis and require some command of the language to present the argument or position. It wouldn’t surprise me to learn some of these Top 100 lists of wines or of other subjects are done by AI.
But since listicles, whether compiled by humans or non-humans, have now become a mainstream communications format, I still look them over. One that caught my eye was an end of the year “The Best Argentinian Wines of 2024.” It appeared at Wine-Searcher, a highly respected and popular website. Like many of my colleagues, I find Argentina to be one of the most dynamic wine countries to follow. The list was based on the 100 point scoring system used by the major reviewers.
As I made my way through the top ten, things got weird. After noting how wonderful Argentina is I read that “prices remain as attractive as ever.” All good. Then the stuff hit the fan. The #1 wine was priced at $245 a bottle, #2 at $226, and, well, the least expensive wine was $128. Only one white wine made the list, it was a Catena Chardonnay, and the list maker noted, “the White Bones Chardonnay back in 2015 sat at $105, today it comes in at an average of $137. ” For a Chardonnay from Argentina?
Excuse me, but none of those are attractive prices nor are wines priced at triple digits what Argentina is best known for. Back to Argentina wine #1 in this wine-searcher list I read, “It’s also extremely attractive pricewise, having gone from $153 in 2020 to today’s price of $246.”
So that’s what happens when the selection is based on wine ratings from the prime time reviewers. You end up with a list of wines that normal people, non-snobs will never find even if they were fool enough to pay these exorbitant prices.
The Better “Best of Wine” Lists
But for the rest of us, a few “Best of” lists are well worth reading. James Suckling is much better with the top wines of Argentina. As you go through the list of top 100 wines, you hear about trends and are alerted to new wines to look for. Here’s the method behind the choices: “In curating this year’s Top 100 Wines of Argentina list, we prioritized quality, value for money, each wine’s “wow” factor and general market availability.”
And as for trend-spotting, Suckling adds this: “Chardonnay may dominate the 14 white wines featured on this list, but rising interest in old-vine semillons and chenin blanc highlights the growing diversity of Argentine whites.” Suckling’s list also mentions Cabernet Franc, a rising star, and also a Torrontes, the often overlooked wine, made by Susana Balbo.
The “wow factor” is also part of another fascinating list offered by the New York Times list of “Most Memorable” wines of 2024. Compiled by Eric Asimov, the wines are chosen for their quality but also for their impact on the taster and for the reactions they spark. You know, human reactions. And the pleasure wine brings to people.
Forbes offered several Best of lists. One is “The World’s Best Wine Values of 2024.” Fascinating selections that show a lot of thought went into them.
Better yet, Forbes asked writer Katie Bell for her “Best Wines of 2024” and she came up with a fabulous list. Her premise, which I thoroughly support is this:
“Every year I take note of the wines that moved me, rocked my universe or dazzled me with their quality at an unbelievable price. Long ago I started sharing this list because the best things in life are shared and wine is the ultimate shared experience.” Looking for values and believing that wines are for sharing, now that’s the basis of a great list.
Among the wines she lists are an under the radar Oregon Pinot Noir from Maysara, a white wine from Greece and a Viura from Spain. Oh, and a wine from Argentina: a Malbec from Catena that sells for $20.
And one other list really caught my attention a few days ago. It was posted on Jeb Dunnick’s website. He, of course, offered his top 100 wines, but the list that everyone should read is the Top 50 Best wines of 2024 by R. Drexel. It begins with a Chenin Blanc from Nalley, a winery new to me and moves along with all kinds of thought-provoking choices and ends up with the #1 wine of the year being a Grenache. A Napa Valley Grenache…totally unexpected but makes me want to get my hands on a bottle.
Discovering a new wine. Now that’s a great way to end a year or celebrate the New Year.
If you are looking for a gift for the special wine drinker in your life, here’s a suggestion that is a sure bet to please, and it is NOT a wine.
The Mad Crush, a new edition written by Sean Weir is highly recommended for those who are into wine or remotely curious but also for anyone out there dreaming about starting a winery. Available on Amazon ($14.95) this new edition is beautifully written by someone who knows his wine but more importantly, knows how to engage and entertain the reader.
It is an easy read, but also hard to put down.
On one level, it is the story of Bill Greenough, who “left a successful business world in favor of moving to a remote canyon, digging out an abandoned old vineyard, and making wine off the grid.” The vineyard was established in 1880, abandoned after Prohibition, and Greenough began the process of restoring that vineyard in 1974. Today, the original 3-acre block of head pruned Zinfandel is still producing. Located in what’s known as the Edna Valley today, It is the oldest in San Luis Obispo County. Greenough added 6 acres of Zin in the 1970s and 80s.
The winery is now in the hands of the second generation and still focusing on Zinfandel.
On another level, the book is also the story of this old vineyard established about 150 years ago which was tended to by several generations who like Greenough become full time stewards of the vines and the land. Along the way the book gives life to many of the cliches tossed around in the wine world. Among them are winemakers being caretakers of the land or stewards as many now like to say, along with communicating with the vines. Stuff like this is made believable through Weir’s first hand experiences and poignant observations.
What held my attention from the first page is the feeling the book is also about the author as he comes to understand the commitment needed to succeed in tending vines and making wines. And as the process unfolds, it may all sound romantic but you sense he comes to realize that pursuing the dream of becoming a winemaker, a dream so many people have shared, is not for everybody.
Weir grew up in the wine country. He worked in the cellars of Kenwood Vineyard and saw first hand how the partners worked hard to make a go of it. In 1992 as a student at Cal Poly in San Luis Obispo, he worked one summer as a cellar rat with Greenough as he revived the old vineyard.
In 1995, out of the blue, Greenough contacts him to work the harvest. That included monitoring the vines as they matured, cleaning the winery, and preparing for the harvest, crush, and fermentations. That experience, he explains, “is what ultimately drove him to write the book.” As the story unfolds, readers learn a lot about vines, making wines, cleaning, and dealing with the weather, equipment, and the workers during the harvest and crush. It is an inside look at the nitty-gritty, the dusty, dirty boots side of winemaking, not to forget the long hours.
When you go to Amazon for the book, there’s a plot summary. This is a revised edition and includes an afterword and a section called “Prunings,” consisting of some tidbits and stories that didn’t fit the main story.
As for the author, when asked about his winemaking experience after 1995, Sean notes: “That was my third and final crush. That was enough for me. I caught the winemaking bug, but it wasn’t terminal.”
Why would any normal person start a winery these days? Well, let’s go rogue and find out.
Oregon just nudged ahead of Washington State and is now home to over 1,000 wineries, second only to California. The last I heard California had over 4000 wineries. New wineries are opening up each week and the Rogue Valley is attracting more than its fair share of newbies.
But why now?
The oft quoted reason is “the pursuit of a dream and the lifestyle.” That was voiced during the boom decades of the 70s and 80s in California and still reverberates in this decade along the entire West Coast.
Who are these wine dreamers? In the US, unlike in traditional wine countries, most winery start-up founders are career changers (doctors, lawyers, high-tech) but a few are from a farming background and a few are out and out science nerds. Yes, there are wineries started by celebrities of some kind with too much money and too big of an ego. And then there’s the epiphany story.
When you peek behind the label to see who the owners are among the rising stars, you once again encounter the Rogue Valley’s diversity.
Goldback Wines: Watch out for Lightning
Speaking of an epiphany, Goldback is a good place to start our second tour of the Rogue Valley. Named after a fern indigenous to Southern Oregon, this authentic, small lot artisan winery was launched in 2016 by winemaker/owner Andy Meyer. He caught the wine bug as a college student looking for a summer job. “I answered a craigslist ad for a tasting room job for the summer, which just happened to be for Cristom Vineyards. Within 15 minutes of driving up the driveway for the interview, a lightning bolt struck. I knew that working in wine was what I wanted to do for the rest of my life.”
After the lightning strike his resume expanded to include working harvests at William Selyem and Hirsch Vineyards in Sonoma, Felton Road in New Zealand, Mark Ryan in Washington, and Cape Mentelle in South Africa. From these experiences as well as his time as a restaurant wine director, he favors a minimalist approach to winemaking and aims to preserve natural acidity in whites and tannin integration in his reds.
As for his own wines, the red Cuvee is the winery’s version of a Cotes du Rhone, drink now red. A blend of 58% Syrah and 42% Grenache, it offers plenty of bright raspberry fruit in its aroma and has a pleasing soft entry to deliver berry and cherry flavors.
Goldback’s Syrah is a blockbuster that showcases Syrah’s full throttle concentration and purity and is all about the grape and the site. In recent vintages, Meyer sought out the nearby Meadowlark Vineyard with its granite soils and sustainable farming. But the site is also very windy which forces the vines to shut down frequently and contribute to a long growing season. Similar, says Meyer, to the effect of the Mistral in the Rhone. The resulting wine is dark purple and loaded with ripe plum and a floral, wild thyme character. Medium full, it is concentrated with dense, ripe black fruit flavors and some black pepper. Plush and seamless, it will benefit from a couple of years of bottle aging. But could age for a decade or more.
From the oldest block of Grenache from the neighboring Jaxon Vineyard,Goldback’s Grenache is a selection of the winemaker’s favorites. Those selected stood out for being “Pinot Noir-ish”and the wine is indeed not your typical Grenache. A long cold soak and a 22 day fermentation with some whole clusters, the wine was aged 18 months in neutral French oak. The nose offers up loads of vibrant, cherry, strawberry fruit that carry over into the smooth flavors. There’s a touch of earthiness in the nicely textured finish. In 2020, Goldback continued experimenting and bottled one barrel of Grenache that was 100% whole cluster, carbonic maceration.
A beautiful hillside vineyard overlooking the Rogue Valley in Southern Oregon was planted by Dr. Peter William Adesman. Along with being a full-time practicing physician, he has been an avid wine collector and educator since the 1970s, and long dreamed of producing his own wines. He notes: ”In 2007, my wife, Dr. Robin Miller, and I moved to a property in the Rogue Valley where we could plant a 10-acre vineyard. That is how Peter William Vineyard was born. Our first commercial vintage was 2016.”
Peter, only call him “Doctor” if you are his patient, is dynamic, enthusiastic and has an encyclopedic wine knowledge based on tasting and traveling. For his winery, Syrah is offered in several styles. Of the 4 Syrahs made by this winery in 2018, one labeled Candives is 100% Syrah made from the estate vineyard and aged entirely in French oak, 50% new. To distinguish it from the others, the winery went with the “Candives” name, said to be an alternate name for Syrah used in the tiny village of Chavanay in the Northern Rhone Valley. As fine as the other 2018s are, this is so dark, dense, and dramatic that the special name is certainly merited. Ultra smooth and seamless, it is beautiful now but will also bring rewards with cellaring. 94 points.
Another small batch Peter William Syrah is made from estate grown grapes which are vinified by winemaker Eric Weisinger who is the “W” referenced on the label. The end result is a compact, powerful expression of Syrah that may be one of the best values around these days. It is pure ripe Syrah beginning with its dark color and earthy, leathery, black pepper aromatics.
Then there’s an exciting blend from Peter William aptly named “Extravagance.” It may be going on elsewhere, but Southern Oregon sure seems to be a hotbed of creative winemaking energy leading to fascinating blends and unusual wines. A 50-50 blend of Tempranillo and Syrah, Extravagance is aged for 21 months in French oak and bottled unfined and unfiltered. This intriguing blend turns out to be delicious red wine with both depth and charm. It comes across as ripe, plush Syrah built on a Tempranillo framework.
In 2023, the 2-Hawk Winery was rebranded Padigan, the name taken from a soil type. This 24 acre vineyard is owned by Ross Allen, a third generation farmer from the San Joaquin Valley.
Both before and after the name change, Malbec was a major success along with the winery’s Syrah and Viognier. With the release of its 2019 wines, the winery began hitting full stride. 2019 was an exceptionally long, coolish growing season, and the winery’s estate grown Malbec was not harvested until mid to late October. The juice was wild yeast fermented, blended with 10% Cabernet Sauvignon and aged for 28 months in oak. 21% new, 61% neutral. Intensely dark, this Malbec is concentrated and needs some aeration to strut its stuff Overall, an exciting, multi-layered Malbec.
Then there’s Padigan’s Viognier. It takes a grower who knows every vine on the estate to know the best time to harvest Viognier. Ross works closely with winemaker Kiley Evans who explains:
“The trick with Viognier is getting it ripe beyond the bitter almond finish that can be a nuisance in the wine, but not so ripe that it is overly alcoholic/hot and I’ve seen that progression happen in as little as 2-3 days.”
Padigan’s 2021 is a lovely expression of Viognier. Big and round on the palate, it remains lively with good citrus fruit along with crunchy melon flavors. The texture is heavenly and the wine brings it home with a long lasting finish with a subtle zing to it. This could serve as a benchmark Viognier that’s neither over the top in ripeness and alcohol nor one that relies on oak. Native yeast fermented, It was aged sur lies for 11 months in 35% new French oak and later rested on the lees in stainless for 6 months. It seems likely to become even more complex with aging for 3 to 5 years
DAN and CINdy Marka met while studying viticulture at UC Davis. To them, wine is all about sites, clones, soils and aspect. Both must have been super students because their vineyard is beautiful and impeccably maintained.
Dancin is also one of a handful of Rogue Valley wineries making a Pinot Noir, but Dan Marka explains,
“ Our site was created for Pinot Noir and Chardonnay with its north, northeast facing aspect, 1800 foot average elevation and shade occurring beginning at 5:45pm (depending on the Block) throughout the growing season. We are finding that we can produce delicious Pinot Noir with great flavors and balance at alcohol levels in the mid to upper 12’s to the very low 13’s. Our wide diurnal swings allow for flavors and ripeness to occur during the day with acids retained during the overnight hours. We can see daytime highs to overnight lows vary by 40 degrees!”
And he adds that the same Pinot Noir clones ripen later at his site than they do in McMinnville or Dundee.
As a specialist, Dancin is an exception where it is more common to grow a dozen or more varieties within an estate. But, digging a little deeper, you discover the winery’s roster offers lots of exciting choices. Dancin makes 4 distinct Chardonnays, 4 Pinots from different blocks or different clones. It also makes Syrah, Sangiovese and Barbera. If you enjoy Barbera, Dancin’s won’t disappoint.
Weisinger Family Winery: 2nd generation wine grower
Tempranillo Estate, Rogue Valley
The Weisinger Family, on the eastern edge in Ashland is said to specialize in Tempranillo along with, Rhone and Bordeaux varietals.. Quite diverse for a 3,000 case annual output.
Acreage planted to Tempranillo has steadily increased in Southern Oregon over the last decade. Located just outside of Ashland, Weisinger was founded in 1988, making it one of the oldest in Southern Oregon. After assuming the winemaker’s role, Eric Weisinger began grafting over the original Gewurztraminer vines to Tempranillo. Adjacent to the winery, the Tempranillo occupies a steep, high elevation (2235 feet) northeast facing site. The Weisinger Family, on the eastern edge in Ashland is said to specialize in Tempranillo, Pinot Noir, Rhone and Bordeaux varietals, as well as proprietary blends. Quite diverse for a 3,000 case annual output.
My first experience with Weisinger was with the wines from 2018. 2018 was an ideal long, slow growing season with the Tempranillo picked in the first week of October. After being cold soaked and fermented for 20 days by native yeasts, the wine was barrel aged for 17 months in 30% new American oak. It offers lovely bright cherry fruit with hints of black tea and spice in a solid, medium weight package. The black cherry and spice theme continues in the deep flavors with subtle oak toast and firm, integrated tannins coming into play. Beautifully structured and focused throughout, it should drink well over the next 5-7 years. Not surprisingly, Weisinger’s Tempranillos have won many awards. I’ve scored them 93 and 94 in two recent vintages.
Weisinger Family Winery Roussanne, Fortmiller Vineyard, Rogue Valley, Oregon, 2019
Normally part of a Rhone blend, Roussanne as a stand alone varietal is one that seems to challenge winemakers. After experimenting earlier with Roussanne, in 2018 Weisinger resumed its efforts after discovering the north-facing Fortmiller Vineyard in 2018. In 2019, Weisinger harvested the Roussanne at a low 22.4 Brix to preserve acidity and after whole cluster pressing the winery barrel fermented the wine using native and commercial yeasts. The lees were stirred throughout the long fermentation. The result is a wine that showcases floral and lemony aromas, and the flavors are bright with citrus and honeysuckle notes. The leesy texture adds complexity and length to this delicate, lively and pretty wine.
Belle Fiore is the closest thing to a Napa-ish winery with its rather elaborate tasting room and chateau-like facility. It has a busy restaurant and is even a mini art gallery. But it is also serious about its wines made from its 31 acre estate vineyard surrounding the winery. The roster consists of the usual varieties such as Merlot and Syrah but then you get to the “others,” especially the Italians. Here you’ll find a Montepulciano (my fav), a Barbera, Teroldego, Fiano, and a rare Caprettone grape. These are all possible because the owners have identified what they call “16 micro-blocks” based upon soil types and elevation. Owner Edward Kerwin is a clinical research scientist and his wife Karen has an M.A in genetic counseling. Together they launched Belle Fiore in 2007.
Long Walk Vineyard: A Dream Retreat from Silicon Valley
Located in the hills above Ashland, Long Walk is a newly developed vineyard and historic 35 acre orchard owned by Kathy and Tom O’Leary, Silicon Valley techies. After a prolonged search, they settled on this cool, south facing site to pursue their dream to make Rhone inspired wines. The 11-acre vineyard is planted primarily to Rhone varieties. But they also like Zinfandel so there’s a smattering of Zin. “Field Notes” is their version of a GSM Rhone blend. Made from 40% Grenache, 30% Mourvedre, 10% Syrah and a splash of Carignane, it is medium dark in color and unfolds quickly in the glass. The nose starts out with pretty plum fruit along with a hint of leather and game but the bright black fruit character prevails. The flavors add some herbs and cherry and are presented in a round body with gentle, dusty tannins poking through. Pleasantly subtle and charming overall, it is one to enjoy over the next several years. Kudos for the light touch.
With Rose wines being so trendy and Roses now being made from just about every red grape available, it was an eye opener to encounter Long Walk’s rose from a red grape that’s ideal for a Rose: Cinsault. Popular in Southern France, Cinsault is light in color and low in tannin and remains the backbone for many Provence Roses. From vines planted in 2002, this winery’s Rose is an attractive pink-copper color and offers an aromatic mix of just picked strawberries, rose petals and summer flowers. Medium bodied and vibrant, it is balanced and has just enough acidity to bring it to a delicate finish.
As for the Long Walk Zinfandel, it too is impressive.
This new family run winery is based in the small town of Talent, near Medford. The label is a replica used by the family when the land was a pear orchard. Winemaker Matt Newbry and his wife Janéa, attribute the Inspiration Behind Talent Cellars to the very soil their family has been farming In Talent, Oregon since the 1920’s.
Sourced from two nearby vineyards, the 2017 Nuf Said is a blend of 75% Cabernet Sauvignon with 13% Petit Verdot and 12% Grenache. It was aged 22 months in French and American oak (50% new). It is medium bodied and vibrant with bright berry fruit and graphite and cedar in the aroma, yet it sweeps across the palate with juicy, ripe fruit and a hint of vanilla from the oak. Beautifully balanced, it finishes with light, ultra smooth tannins. Production was 250 cases.
Norm Roby's Unfiltered Guide to Savvy Wine Shopping 