Tag: winery

Inside A Cult Winery: Dealing with Today’s Challenges & Changes

“Vertigo” is an unusual name for a wine but after tasting it, the name certainly seemed appropriate. Always interested in tasting new red Rhone blends, this one got my head spinning at first pass and It was tasting more complex a day later. If I did “best of” lists, it would easily be close to the top of GSM blends. Easily within my Top five all time.  Maybe “Best Ever.”

Since I don’t do lists, the wine is the 2022 Vertigo made by Booker Vineyard in Paso Robles. A 2022 Rhone blend that favored Syrah and Mourvedre with Grenache as a supporting actor, “Vertigo” owes its name to the steep slopes where the components are grown in the estate vineyards. 

Since its first vintage in 2005, Booker Vineyard has amassed an impressive track record for wines from Rhone varietals. Along with Saxum and Denner, it brought the wine world’s attention to Paso Robles as home to cutting edge Rhone wines. Founder Eric Jensen who describes himself as the “Farmer-Winemaker,” accrued so many high scores from Parker and The Wine Spectator over its first ten vintages that Booker earned cult wine status.

The other 2022 Booker wines recently tasted provided proof positive that the winery is still functioning at the top of its game. Here are the reviews:

2022 Booker Vineyard Paso Robles (Central Coast) Vertigo $85

The “Vertigo” name is the winery’s way to emphasize the steep slopes of the estate vineyard. This 2022 is also a dizzying, intricate blend of  45% Syrah, 27% Mourvedre, 10% Grenache, 10% Tannat, 7% Petite Sirah, and 1% Viognier. In contrast to the Oublie, it is Syrah-driven with Grenache in the background and is distinctly different. All the pieces work beautifully together in this extraordinary rendition of a Rhone blend. It captures your attention immediately with lovely plum and raspberry aromas, with a hint of lavender. Plum and berry flavors are joined by an exotic hint of espresso and spice as it aerates in the glass. It was aged for 18 months in 50% new French oak, but both oak and tannin are minor players contributing to a lively, delicious finish. Enjoy now but it will reward cellaring for 3-5 years. 95

2022 Booker Vineyard Paso Robles (Central Coast) Oublie $85

“Oublie” refers to the Rhone varieties that were once forgotten, and the wine is usually Grenache dominated. In 2022 the blend was 40% Grenache, 35% Mourvedre, and 25% Syrah, and the wine was aged for 18 months in 50% new French oak. The aroma is action packed with fresh blueberries and cherry with bright floral notes. Full-bodied and lively with plum and berry flavors. Seamless with tannin hidden away and a touch of acidity in the finish. A fruit forward crowd-pleaser that’s so plush, smooth and integrated you never are aware of the high alcohol content. 93

2022 Booker Vineyard Paso Robles (central Coast) Fracture 2022 $98

This is 100% Syrah, and “Fracture” highlights the fact that during the summer months the mineral, limestone soils fracture and contribute to the slow ripening process. Aging was in French oak (60% new) for 18 months, and despite the warm vintage conditions, this wine shows intense fruit purity rarely seen from Syrah.  It opens gradually to reveal blackberry-blueberry fruit with floral and clove or green tea nuances. The palate feel is dense and compact as the flavors unfold with black fruit and cassis in the forefront and cloves, tea and light spice in the background. Firm and concentrated, it finishes with integrated tannins. Nothing funky here, just rich, intense Syrah that should reward lengthy cellaring. 96

But it was not just the actual wines that had my head spinning: it was also the ownership. I learned that the year before, 2021, Booker was purchased by Constellation Brands, a large corporation that along with Treasury Estates bought and sold so many wineries over the last decade that, yes, one’s head keeps spinning trying to keep track.

Now that I’ve beaten that vertigo-spinning metaphor almost to death, let’s move on to an update of Booker Vineyards. What’s it like from the inside when a cult winery becomes part of a large corporate portfolio?

A Team Huddle

A few questions were tossed its way and Pete Turrone fielded them.  He’s the  general manager for Booker who is also part of the winemaking team. His role is this:

“I oversee all three brands as GM, Director of Winemaking and Viticulture. Molly Lonborg is the Sr. Winemaker in charge of everything made at the Booker facility. That is 100% of Booker wines, 100% of the Vineyard Designate wines for “My Favorite Neighbor,” a good portion of the My Favorite Neighbor Cab and a smaller portion of the Harvey & Harriet wines.”

When asked about founder Eric Jensen’s role today, Pete had this to say: “As Founder, he is on the road a lot promoting the brands. We talk on the phone often while he is travelling and his main residence remains on the property. He acts as mentor and guru for many of us on the team, including myself.”

Eric and Lisa Jensen live close to the winery and hospitality center and retain something like 35 acres. The hospitality center was a major project. It was, Peter explains:

“The amazing hospitality center and cave system that we enjoy was entirely conceived of, built, and debuted under the direction of Eric and Lisa Jensen prior to the sale to Constellation Brands. It was their passion project to bring to Paso some of the opulent luxury you might find in Bordeaux or Napa but marry it with the easy, laid back vibes of the Central Coast. Working with top notch architects, designers and contractors, every decision was routed through them. Lisa has an innate knack for design and was instrumental in creating comfortable spaces with calm, confident and inviting luxury. Eric got to build the dream cave, wine library, and elevated tasting lounges that were able to rise to meet the quality of his wines.”

After the sale, what did change at Booker was behind the scenes. “There was more support for infrastructure, staffing, and long-term planning. “We didn’t have to cut corners anymore,” Peter says. “We could double down on what we were already doing well.”

One of the first changes was winemaker Molly Lonborg’s project to get Booker wines labeled ”Made with Organic Grapes,” a subtle change that signals a big message.”

From The Winemaker’s Point of View

To learn more about  wines like Vertigo and its estate grown stablemates, I asked Molly a few questions. Molly, a  graduate of Cal Poly in San Luis Obispo, gained experience at two local wineries. She joined Halter Ranch in Paso Robles in 2011 and rose through the ranks to the position of Associate Winemaker. In 2020, Lonborg took the head winemaker position at Alta Colina Vineyard & Winery in Paso Robles. Now with Booker, she focuses on Booker wines and assists with General Manager Peter Turrone, and works closely with him and Senior Vineyard Manager Hilary Graves.

I first wanted to know more about the wines under the two other labels. “My Favorite Neighbor” Cab is sourced from very special sites throughout the West Side of Paso Robles, primarily the sub AVA’s of Willow Creek, Adelaida and the regions of the Templeton Gap that are west of Hwy 101. “Harvey & Harriet” Reds are from the greater Paso Robles region. The whites from both programs are sourced from Edna Valley and the SLO Coast AVA, with a little coming from Paso as well.

Q. Since you work with several, what sets Willow Creek apart from other AVAs in Paso Robles? 

 “From a winemaker’s perspective, it stands apart because of its unique combination of climate and soils. The coastal influence of the Templeton Gap brings meaningful cooling, resulting in lower daytime highs and fewer cumulative heat hours than many other parts of Paso. Cool ocean air often begins moving into the AVA while other areas are just reaching their hottest point of the day.

That moderation, paired with pockets of high-calcareous soils, creates wines with remarkable depth and intensity without sacrificing freshness. The vineyards are often tucked into hillsides and interspersed with native oak trees, giving the area a sense of intimacy — smaller sites with distinct personalities. Our Vineyard Manager, HilaryGraves, often notes a signature “jasmine tea” character in Willow Creek wines, a beautiful aromatic marker that I’ve come to recognize and love.

Q. Is limestone the key to the “natural intensity” of the fruit you talk about?  Or just how does the soil composition come into play in your sites?

Limestone and high-calcareous soils play a significant role in the natural intensity of our fruit. The Willow Creek District was once under the ocean floor millions of years ago and tectonic activity lifted those marine sediments to form the coastal mountain range.

Those calcareous rocks serve as the parent material for our soils. These soils often have pH levels in the high 7s to low 8s. Interestingly, more basic soils tend to correlate with greater natural acidity in the resulting wines. 

High-calcareous soils also moderate vine vigor, encouraging roots to work harder and naturally limiting excessive growth. When paired with controlled water stress, this can lead to smaller berries with concentrated color, texture, and depth. Our estate includes both calcareous and siliceous soils, but we consistently see themost intense fruit coming from the diagonal band of calcareous soils that runs throughthe property. Soil composition is not the only factor, but it is foundational to the expression of our site.

Q. What are the white varieties you enjoy working with and is the Edna Valley favored over Paso for white varieties?

I personally love making white wines, particularly white Rhône varieties. At Booker, we grow Chenin Blanc, Viognier, Roussanne, and Marsanne, varieties that thrive in our warm, sun-driven climate while retaining texture and character.

Paso Robles can be too warm for certain varieties like Chardonnay and more aromatic whites such as Riesling, Grüner Veltliner, or Gewürztraminer. Regions like Edna Valleyand the SLO Coast AVA, with their stronger marine influence and cooler overall conditions are especially well-suited to those styles.

Q. How does farming by Regenerative organic practices impact the vine and the wine? 

Regenerative Organic farming begins with the soil. We view the soil as a living ecosystem, and our goal is to nurture it so that it can, in turn, support healthy, balanced vines. When soil biology is thriving, vines develop stronger immune systems, greater resilience to heat and pest pressure, and the capacity to produce high-quality fruit consistently over time.

Detailed vine nutrition, combined with regenerative practices, creates plants that are balanced rather than forced; capable of withstanding challenging growing conditionswhile maintaining integrity and longevity.

Regenerative farming also encompasses the human element. It prioritizes the well-being of everyone who works on and interacts with the property. When the people caring for the vines feel respected, valued, and purposeful, that intention carries through from vineyard to bottle.

Q. On your blends: how and when do you decide to include Chardonnay in the White and, say, how much Syrah or Mourvedre goes into the final red blend? And are there wide differences from vintage to vintage?

“Over time, our approach to Booker White has evolved to more fully reflect our estateand farming philosophy. Today, we rely on estate-grown Chenin Blanc to bring the weight and texture that Chardonnay once contributed. Chenin thrives in our site and climate, and it allows the wine to feel both structured and vibrant while remaining true to our property.

Beginning with the 2025 vintage, the entire Booker portfolio will carry “Made with Organic Grapes” on the label, along with CCOF and Regenerative Organic Certified(ROC) designations which is an important milestone for us. 

For our red blends: “Oublie” (Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre) and “Vertigo” (Syrah,Grenache, Mourvèdre, along with select blending components), we don’t begin with predetermined percentages. Instead, we blend toward balance and deliciousness. While we often hope “Oublie” will lean heavily on Grenache; we allow the vintage and the wines themselves to guide the final composition. These blends can be the most challenging and rewarding to craft because we are working with many potential components, it’s like assembling a complex puzzle. 

Vintage variation absolutely plays a role. For example, 2022 was the hottest vintage on record and one of the earliest harvests of my career, followed by 2023, one of the coolest and latest since 2011. The wines naturally express those differences in texture, structure,and aromatic profile. Neither is better, they simply reflect their growing season.

Because we work exclusively with estate-grown fruit, there is continuity in our wines from year to year. Often there are specific blocks that make it into specific wines year over year. At the same time, those blocks can surprise us, expressing themselves differently depending on the vintage and sometimes finding a better home in a different blend. 

These are truly terroir-driven wines, and subtle variation is part of their authenticity.

Q. And how does barrel aging program work with the emphasis on terroir?

At Booker Vineyard, we’ve developed a somewhat unconventional approach to barrel aging that’s really become part of our identity. Each year we produce five core red wines, and for each one we bottle two separate expressions: one after 18 months in barrel and another after 22 months. The latter bottling is labeled “Extended.”

It’s a thoughtful way to let both us and our members experience how additional time in barrel shapes the same wine. Coming into this role, I assumed I might consistently prefer the 18-month bottling for its freshness and precision. What I’ve learned, though, is that it truly depends on the vintage. In some years, that extra four months allows the tannins to knit together more seamlessly, creating a broader, more polished texture. In other vintages, the earlier bottling preserves a vibrancy and aromatic lift that feels more aligned with the wine’s personality.

With extended aging, tannin integration is usually the most noticeable shift. The additional time can soften and harmonize structure, but it also increases the imprint of oak, so we’re careful with barrel selection and toast level to ensure the fruit remains at the forefront. Ultimately, the goal isn’t to make one “better” than the other, but to explore dimension, showcasing both the diversity and the evolution that our site can offer.

The Corporate Message


So turning back to Peter and asking about any other changes under new ownership. 

In the early years Booker sold grapes to Saxum and other neighbors, but  not in recent years. “The only exception is that we recently purchased an adjacent property previously owned by Carl Bowker (Caliza). Part of the agreement was to sell him back some fruit for a limited number of years.”

There is a new GSM wine to the roster, PERL, which is all about finding  gems, or what Eric  calls “pearls, at other vineyards. It gives us the freedom to bring some of our favorite local vineyard blocks into the Booker fold.”

Otherwise, the Booker Vineyard team was “given one clear directive from above—don’t mess it up.”

And my advice to Corporate

 Don’t mess it up!!

Embracing Higher ABV Wines in 2026

Dry January is almost finished and has gotten lots of media attention so far. And, no, this is not another diatribe against Dry January. About all I need to know is that it began in the UK in 2012 and became an annual event the following year. If people want to avoid any alcoholic drink for a month there’s no harm done and it’s their prerogative. So no judgment. 

For those people enjoying wine without pausing, this is a good opportunity to come to terms with the fact that the alcohol content of wines from most regions is trending higher. It is not just a California thing. Nor a West Coast thing. 

Time to Reboot and Re-Set

So while others re-set or pause their lives this month,  the rest of us, writers, educators, and wine lovers, all need to re-set or re-think how we are going to approach the new norm of high alcohol wines. Especially red wines.

The trend has been well-documented. Kathleen Wilcox, reporting  in Liquor.com summarizes things this way: 

“A study of alcohol levels over the past 30 years by Liv-ex (The London International Vintners Exchange) revealed that wines from California, Piedmont, Tuscany and Bordeaux had higher levels on average for the decade between 2010–2019 than they did in the 1990s. 

Bordeaux increased, on average, from 12.5–13% ABV in the ‘90s to 13.5–14% in the 2010s. California rose from around 13.5% to more than 14.5%.”

Based on vintages since 2019, the averages today are likely higher. Red wines, in particular Cabernet Sauvignon and Zinfandel are the most obvious wines trending higher. Need more proof? Sorry about the use of “proof.” The best-selling Rombauer Carneros Chardonnay 2023, from a cool-climate, is 14.6 % abv. A popular red wine is the 2023 The Prisoner which clocks in at 15.2% abv.

Here’s my review posted at the end of 2025 that got me thinking:

2022 Justin Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve, Paso Robles $60

“Here is a big, powerful Cabernet that pushes the envelope. The 2022 vintage was another drought year, and Paso Robles experienced late season heat waves. Made from 100% Cabernet that was aged for 21 months in French oak, 50% of it new, it clocks in at 15.5 % alcohol. However, when tasted blind, it offers an aroma of ultra-ripe black berries, chocolate, and spices that by the final swirl is absolutely gorgeous. Full-bodied with very juicy black fruit flavors and spice backed up by toasty oak, it all holds together seamlessly thanks to integrated tannins. The finish ends on a light toasty oak note. The real challenge is to pair it with a comparably robust main course.

Obviously, I loved the wine. But why in retrospect, did I feel duty-bound to note the alcohol content? 

Old habits do die hard. Wine writing in the USA began with the coming of age of The Wine Spectator, the Wine Enthusiast, and the Wine Advocate. Writers back then shared, yes including Robert Parker, the fundamental belief that if wine has a purpose, it is to complement food. And maybe spark a little conversation around the dinner table. Bring people together and be enjoyed. Or all of the above. 

As wine writing in the US expanded from the 1990s onward, most of us never lost sight of the wine and food affinity or marriage because we didn’t dare want to encourage drinking an alcoholic beverage. Anti-alcohol campaigns never totally disappeared, so we aimed for a balanced approach. 

The federal government, in its infinite wisdom,  assumed long ago for tax purposes that table wine is defined as having between 7% to 14% ABV. So long as the wine was under 14, wineries had a 1.5% leeway and didn’t have to be precise. A wine under 14% can simply state  on the label that it is “Table Wine.”  For those wineries preferring to provide a number, the majority often use 12.5% for any wine below 14%.

The point is that it was almost like a punishment for any producer not playing by the rules. Then you add the required Surgeon General’s warning about drinking wines during pregnancy or operating machinery on the back label, and it’s easy to understand why the food message continues. Oh, and let’s not forget the sulfites.

And just now, when the industry is dealing with weakening consumer markets, the anti-alcohol message was back and loud even before Dry January.  One day there’s a report that drinking any wine is bad for you; the next day a glass or two is ok. No wonder we are now seeing de-alcoholized wines or low-alcohol wines and gentle pet-nat beverages.

With climate change on the minds of most intelligent wine industry leaders, maybe they have to accept as part of the change that wines today, reds and whites, are made from riper grapes and are generally high in alcohol on average. Along with climate change, the science of winemaking has advanced to the point where yeast strains are specially selected for each wine and often are stronger, meaning they convert more sugar into alcohol during fermentation.

So What!

Wine, unlike other beverages, changes over time. Even Bordeaux wines are not the same as they were 25 years ago. Heat waves in 2003 and 2005 were not aberrations, but served to wake producers up to the reality of climate change. The benchmarks writers used 25 years ago to rare new Bordeaux vintages should be rejected or at least modified. A wine today doesn’t have to have an aging potential of 1o or 20 years to be “great.” 

Along the way as everyone adjusts to the new normal, we’ll have to revise many of the classic wine and food combinations. The big, bold Cabernet-based wines don’t have the youthful tannins and grip that were part of the under 13% ABV profile. Savory seems to have emerged as a flavor description. Textures are often said to be velvety and plush, which again might change the food compatibility. Best of all, you don’t need to cellar them and refer to a vintage chart from a wine expert. 

Moving on

For my part, as sort of a New Year’s resolution, I’ll stop making reference to a wine’s ABV when reviewing a wine. So here goes:

The Big, Red Monster Paso Robles, Central Coast (California) Zinfandel Lot #2 $20

Yes, here’s a Paso red wine that boasts about being big. Now owned by War Room Cellars based in San Luis Obispo, this brand began in 2005 as a partnership between winemakers Bob Pepi (formerly of Robert Pepi winery) and Jeff Booth (formerly of Conn Creek). The brand was relaunched in 2019 and aimed at a market that loves big and powerful wines. 

Promoted as a “savage beast,” this Lot #2 is Zinfandel blended with Petite Sirah and Tannat. After an extended maceration “for bigger extraction,” it was aged in French and American oak, 20% new. While definitely big and ripe, it offers an attractive aroma of blackberry and pepper with some spiciness. On the palate it is round but ultra soft and has enough fruitiness to keep the tannin and ripeness in check. 

Lava Cap Winery El Dorado, Sierra Foothills (California)  Barbera 2023 $40

From the winery’s Tectonic Series” highlighting barrel selections from vineyards planted in young volcanic soils at high elevation sites. Bold and concentrated,  this is a unique expression of Barbera. It has an opulent nose of spicy dark plum with some anise and black currants. Big and round on the palate, it delivers lots of ripe fruit and an earthy undercurrent. Plush with integrated tannin and good balancing acidity, it tasted bright and youthful a day after being opened. Dense and concentrated, it was aged in neutral French oak.

You pretty much know a wine labeled Big Red Monster will be unusual, but the Lava Cap Barbera introduces us to the new normal. It does not remind you of a Barbera from Asti or Alba except for the color. Everything else is atypical of Barbera.  

But it also is a great wine that for me ushers in the new normal in 2026.

The Unique Flavors of El Dorado’s Mountain Wines

The “Tectonic Series” by Lava Cap showcases unique wines from El Dorado County, emphasizing their distinct mountain soils and high elevations. Winemaker Nolan Jones highlights the benefits of volcanic soils and how they enhance wine purity and flavor. The series aims to present exceptional red wines, starting with a standout Barbera.

“Tectonic Series” may sound like some new Netflix series, but it refers to  wines that every  curious wine lover should know about. Placing myself in that group, when Nolan Jones of Lava Cap in El Dorado County wondered if I might be interested in his Tectonic Series”  I was all in. 

Nolan explains the background this way:  “Every year, certain lots stand out for their ability to capture the essence of our mountain soils and high-elevation vineyards. The “Tectonic Series “is my way of bottling these rare wines not defined by vineyard or variety but by their fascinating and one-of-a-kind expression of El Dorado red wines.” 

 So he had me at “rare,” but then added one of a kind, really? The key ingredients here obviously are mountain soils and high-elevation sites. Mountainous wine regions can be found in Napa, Lake County, Mendocino, and Santa Cruz. And from the 1990s on, Argentinian winemakers have made high elevations their key message. 

But the closer I looked into the Lava Cap story, the more I learned or re-learned about high elevation vineyards and volcanic soils and what they bring to the winemaker.  And, better yet, how they expand the wine tasting experience. 

El Dorado County wines today are some of the most exciting  and diverse that somehow still fly  under the radar. Three years ago my enthusiasm was evident in an article posted at winereviewonline.  Three wines were singled out—a Barbera, Viognier, and a Rhone GSM–and all were distinct and way above the ordinary. Shortly thereafter a Cinsaut from Holly’s Hill and a Malbec made by Miraflores also won me over for their unusual depth and liveliness.

Other than rating them all highly, I never stopped to explore what they had in common beyond being from El Dorado. Now, having tasted the Tectonic Series and after Nolan answered a few questions,  I’ve learned a lot. And am happy to share.

Mountain High

Though no one can  top Argentina for elevation, El Dorado is probably the highest on the West Coast, and with his experience there Nolan provides a crash course on the advantages of high-elevation sites:

“El Dorado is unusual in that the AVA is largely defined by elevation, roughly 1,200 to 3,500 feet, and our estate sits about 2,400 to 2,750 feet. As air moves up the Sierra Nevada it is forced upward through orographic uplift, and it cools through the adiabatic process at roughly 4 degrees Fahrenheit per 1,000 feet of elevation gain. Practically, that means ambient temperatures here run meaningfully cooler than the Central Valley below and, importantly, our daytime highs are often moderated during heat spikes.”

He continues adding this: “We typically see more sunshine hours during the growing season. At the same time, higher elevation increases UV intensity, which acts as an environmental signal in the skins and is associated with phenolic development. That combination of sunlight hours and intensity can support skin-derived compounds while still preserving freshness because the air temperatures are cooler than many lower sites.”

Now for the Dirt on Volcanic Soils

Soil types and their impact on wine have attracted considerable attention, especially with the now trending descriptor, “minerality.”  Limestone soils remain center stage thanks to France’s Bourgogne, Chablis and Sancerre. Wine historians remind us how an exhaustive search for limestone soil in California to grow Pinot Noir led Josh Jensen to develop Calera in Hollister.

 I should mention limestone has been found in the southern end of Paso Robles. 

But otherwise, there’s probably more volcanic soils in California than limestone. Oregon, especially in the Willamette Valley ranks right up there with its Jory soil series being heavily volcanic. And not to be forgotten, many of the wine regions of Chile are also distinguished to some degree by volcanic soils.

Lava Cap is owned by the Jones family, and as the winery’s name implies the owners probably know a thing or two about volcanos. Back in 1979, U.C. Berkeley Geology Professor David and his wife, Jean Jones, purchased the property in El Dorado County and established their winery in 1981. The winery is run today by  their children, Emmet, Kevin, and Nolan.

David Jones, was a geologist who played a significant role in advancing the theory of plate tectonics. He was attracted to that site in El Dorado because of its volcanic soils, specifically the Miocene Mehrten Formation. After admitting my ignorance here, Nolan kindly helped me understand why these soils are distinct:

“Volcanic soils” can mean many things, but at Lava Cap a large portion of our estate is derived from the Miocene Mehrten Formation. In simple terms, we’re farming on roughly 10 million year old andesitic volcanic and volcaniclastic material laid down as ash flows and volcanic debris, compacted over time, then weathered into a thin topsoil over deep volcanic parent material. In the vineyard, that typically presents as very coarse, rock rich profiles with high macroporosity, rapid infiltration, and generally low inherent fertility compared to heavier valley soils.”

“From a viticulture standpoint, our Mehrten derived soils naturally moderate vine vigor because both plant available water and nitrogen availability are constrained. The canopy is easier to balance, there is less lateral growth pressure, and we typically get better light distribution with less internal shading without extreme intervention. Where the effective rooting zone is shallow or the profile is especially rock dominated, we often see smaller berries and a higher skin to juice ratio, which increases color, tannin, and flavor concentration.”

As a quick summary of the above: The grapevines grow in a thin layer of porous soil over hard, fractured, rock. So drainage is high and the vines are stressed from minimal access to water. Or, as I heard from a noted winemaker many years ago, “vines don’t like wet feet.” 

As the winemaker, Nolan works closely with his brother, Emmet, educated as a geologist, who is now in charge of the family’s high-elevation vineyards.  

From that background, it was time to focus on the wines from the Tectonic Series. For the two 2023 wines in this series, Barbera and Zinfandel, fruit from the Camino vineyard at 3,000 feet elevation was combined with fruit from another in Fairplay at 2,400 feet. The organically farmed Camino vineyard, is rooted in deep volcanic soil, …and the Fairplay Vineyard is ‘characterized by warmer temperatures and well-draining granitic soils.” 

Now the Wines

But when pressed on why these wines are different from other wines from high elevation sites, he said, “when combined with naturally moderated vigor on rocky Mehrten profiles, you tend to get wines that show clarity, energy, and freshness with structure without heaviness. In reds, that often reads as tighter, more defined fruit and a more compact, savory structural feel rather than purely plush or jammy.”

That description was unexpected, since others working with volcanic soils have mentioned the wines acquire an earthy, smoky, or mineral character. In other words, from the geologist’s perspective, the wines don’t acquire an aroma and flavor profile that can be traced to volcanic soil. 

While my questions and the responses were going back and fourth, the wines were tasted. 

First up was the 2023 Barbera, and here are my notes from a review posted at winereviewonline.com 

 “Bold and concentrated, this is a unique expression of Barbera. It has an opulent nose of spicy dark plum with some anise and black currants. Big and round on the palate, it delivers lots of ripe fruit and an earthy undercurrent. Plush with integrated tannin and good balancing acidity, it tasted bright and youthful a day after being opened. Dense and concentrated, it was aged in neutral French oak.” 

It definitely was different from some of my favorite Barberas from Asti and Alba which tend to be middle weight, tannic and often a bit rustic in the good, bring on the pizza sense. 

Three years ago my posted review of another El Dorado Barbera, the 2019 by Boeger, went this way:

“It is a big mouthful of a wine that has an amazing structure and somehow remains vibrant and refreshing.  With a little airing, it displays the lovely blackcurrant, dark berry and spice side of Barbera with nicely layered flavors that are surrounded by fine grained tannins.  It can be aged for many years, but I found it appealing now with its solid core of fruit and rich texture.”

Without knowing it, I happened upon an unusual style of Barbera. While the Lava Cap and Boeger versions are not identical, they share many similarities. Too many to be a coincidence.

So with his Tectonic Series, Nolan set out to showcase the distinctive red wines of El Dorado. With Barbera, he makes a convincing case. It may not be to everyone’s taste, but it definitely is worth checking out.

We will leave the discussion of the Tectonic Series Zinfandel for another time.

Holiday Wine Sales: Budget-Friendly Tips for Shoppers

Now with the crazy days of holiday shopping hype coming at us from every direction, the major online wine retailers and wine merchants are also doing their best to get our attention. 

Although these Prime, Cyber, Black Friday and what have you holiday sales are now an annual event, lots of circumstances have changed over the last 2 years. People in general are much more focused on soaring prices of eggs and gasoline, or whatever their reference point may be. 

The phrase “sticking to a budget” is now heard in so many circles.

Because wine sales have trailed off over the last 2 years or so, these holiday sales will be closely watched. As of now, wine prices haven’t spiraled because tariffs haven’t made an impact on prices. 

The fact is that there is a glut or over-supply of wines and we have seen the number of wine producers entering the discount world increase as many once solid wineries feel the need to reduce prices to move inventory.

Wine is different from eggs and gas because it is a discretionary product, meaning not vital or necessary. Well, to all but a few of us. If there has been a lesson those in the wine biz should have learned over the last two years as wine sales dipped, it is that non-snobby wine lovers are really no different than other consumers and now realize a need to be extra careful about sticking to a  wine budget. That often means having a target maximum price or price point when buying wine. 

What’s Going on in Online Wine Sales

When previewing t several of the Black Friday deals, I can’t help but notice the many luxury or cult wines that are over $100 a bottle are now being offered at deep discounts. Online seller winespies.com offered the 2020 Caymus Special Selection at $147 ($225 regular price), vivino.com announced a culty Chardonnay for $34.99, regular price $90, while lastbottle.com featured a Pouilly-Fuise for $34, regularly $100.  Another site had the 2018 Beringer Reserve Cabernet at $87.50, roughly 50% off. Earlier this week there was a “sale” of the 2022 Joseph Phelps Insignia, which retails for $350-$400 at $195 a bottle. 

Don’t know about you, but to me even these discounted prices still are not budget-friendly. High ratings and non-stop hype are behind so many of these exorbitant prices.  Some might argue that many wines priced in the 3 digit range are on allocation or enjoy a cult following. Then one wonders why some are offered online to begin with and often at deep discounts. We’ll probably never get a consistent explanation, but that shouldn’t stop us from shopping the sales.

Insider Tips for Savvy Wine Shoppers

One great website to find truly fine and reasonably priced wines is wtso.com  What stood out to me is that its Black Friday sales on November 28-29 has an end of the year Clearance Sale. While it continues with its daily flash sale, wtso has many attractive, highly rated wines in its clearance sale. With a few bottles priced at $11.99, the list is heavy in Italian wines but also has something for every wine drinker. At $19.99 a bottle, you can buy the 2024 Calculated Risk Cabernet, the 2021 Havens Cellars Red Blend, and the 2022 Left Coast Cellars Willamette Valley Pinot Noir. An Old Vine Lodi Zinfandel topped the list of the $11.99  specials.

Wine Access is another website that has dozens of great wines for the budget minded Black Friday shopper. At wineaccess.com  the sale works by knocking an extra 20% off their already discounted prices. For example the 2022 Zinfandel from Marietta Cellars is listed for $25, but with the added discount sells for $20 a bottle.THe extra discount is applied at check out.

 Those wines that stood out to me before the discounts are the Three Wine Company Old Vine Field Blend ($28), Meeker 2022 Grenache ($22), 2023 Lang & Reed Cabernet Franc ($29), 2022 La Vigne Paso Robles Merlot ($21) and a San Luis Obispo Chardonnay from Oceano Vineyards( $18). Others are the Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from Oregon’s Solena Estate. And if you like wines from Australia, Argentina, and France, wineaccess.com has something for you at Black Friday prices.

Another site pushing its Black Friday sales also with a large inventory is wineexpress.com A few caught my attention, especially the J. Dusi Cabernet “The Don” from Paso at $22.49. J. Dusi is a favorite of mine. Also, there’s the Rutherford Ranch Chardonnay for $13.47 and a Reverdy 2021 Cotes du Rhone for $7.47. 

The California Wine Club, one of the oldest, has announced its Black Friday 50% off sale. The sale will continue through Sunday. At $12.50 the 2022 Armida Zinfandel from Dry Creek and the Eden Rift Sauvignon Blanc, also at $12.50 are excellent deals. The full list is worth checking out at cawineclub.com 

When the Dust Settles

These holiday sales will likely be extended way beyond the holidays, but they will end. Most of these are flash sales, daily deals or one-time only sales which not everyone is comfortable with because of the need to act quickly.

Budget-Friendly Paso Robles Wines Under $25

With the crazy days of holiday shopping hype coming at us from every direction, all the major online wine retailers and wine merchants are also doing their best to get our attention. If there has been a lesson learned over the last two years as wine sales dipped, it is that wine lovers are really no different than other consumers and now realize they need to be extra careful about sticking to a budget. 

 When word got out that the average price of a Napa Valley wine was $108 a bottle, normal people probably explored alternatives. If you count yourself among the budget minded, normal people then let me share my latest wine shopping discovery. Though I’ve been following it for years, Paso Robles has emerged as a leader when it comes to quality for the price.

Paso Robles remains one of the most energized and dynamic wine regions even in these difficult times. At least it is to me. Paso Robles came alive back in 1998 when the Rhone Rangers began holding their annual event there which was followed up in 2010 by the annual Garigists wine festival. Though once just a lonely way station midway between San Francisco and LA, Paso has also come on strong as a tourist destination. And here in 2025 there’s lots of excitement in the hotel and culinary scenes.

 With so many possible story angles staring at me, one that caught my eye during a recent trip to the SoCal Coast was the way so many Paso Robles wines are beginning to dominate wine lists and special deals in wine shops. We’re talking high end restaurants, sommelier-managed wine lists.

Que Pasa Paso?

Why? Beyond quality and availability, the one pattern that emerged is that the trend setting wineries in Paso know how to hit today’s magic price point. When looking back over my recent tasting notes, it was amazing to see so many of my Paso favorites selling for around $25 a bottle or less. My gut feeling is that today’s savvy wine shoppers see $25 as the top price that fits their budget. Maybe $29.99 if a wine strikes them as exceptional. 

The Paso Players

The Paso wineries I see as major players in this trend are a mix of well-established names like Ancient Peaks and J. Lohr and newcomers. A few others belong to major marketing companies, and many are your Mom & Pop family folks. Most of the wines are red which is no big surprise. Overall, when you visit the Tin City wineries or many others, the energy level and enthusiasm is reminiscent of Napa before 2000. Paso has become a magnet for creative maverick winemakers and outliers. Just recently Napa’s Tank Garage Winery joined the Paso scene. Check it out and you’ll get my point.

As for wines, Paso was noted early on for Petite Sirah, Zinfandel and the Rhones, and these are all included in the price point $25 club. But Cabernets, Bordeaux blends and other creative blends are well-represented and seem to be replacing Napa wines on many wine lists and also in the minds of many wine lovers.

So now that we’ve plugged in the destination on our map, “let’s go” to the top Paso wines hovering around the  $25 price point. 

First Stop: Petite Sirah and Zinfandel

Peachy Canyon Paso Robles (California) Petite Sirah 2021 $20

Best known for its bold Zinfandels, Peachy Canyon also has a good track record for Petites in a rich but supple style. Deep dark in color, this 2021 offers an aroma of sweet black fruit and fig along with some dried herbs. It turns plush and smooth on the palate driven by a solid core of blackberry flavors and light oak. It finishes long and seamless. With its lovely silky texture and subtle oak notes, it is well-knit and ready to drink now.  90

Brady Vineyards Paso Robles Petite Sirah 2021  $20

 After honing his winemaking skills in Texas, Don Brady went West to work for Robert Hall in Paso Robles. In 2006 he acquired a 24 acre vineyard and began focusing on Paso red wines.

If you like Paso Petite, Brady checks all of the boxes. His 2021 was aged in French oak for 18 months. Dark in color, it has that  intense, ripe blackberry aroma with some black pepper that sets the varietal apart. Full-bodied with concentrated flavors of blackberries, boysenberries and some vanilla bean, it is tight and concentrated on the palate with light tannin and oak.  More powerful than nuanced, but fairly well-mannered, it could benefit from a little cellaring to soften. But with decanting, it would serve you well as a complement to most smoked meats and, to me, especially with osso buco. Also, a good value. 90

The Big, Red Monster Lot #2 Paso Robles, Zinfandel $20

Yes, here’s a Paso red wine that boasts about being big. Now owned by War Room Cellars based in San Luis Obispo, this brand began in 2005 as a partnership between winemakers Bob Pepi (formerly of Robert Pepi winery) and Jeff Booth (formerly of Conn Creek). The brand was relaunched in 2019 and aimed at a market that loves big and powerful wines. Promoted as a “savage beast,” this Lot #2 is Zinfandel blended with Petite Sirah and Tannat. After an extended maceration “for bigger extraction,” it was aged in French and American oak, 20% new. While definitely big, ripe and juicy, it offers an attractive aroma of blackberry and pepper with some spiciness. On the palate it is round but ultra soft and has enough fruitiness to keep the tannin and alcohol at bay. 91

Next, let’s move on to Syrah

McPrice Myers Central Coast (California) Right Hand Man Syrah 2023 $ 20

Headquartered in Paso Robles, this winery enjoyed a cult-like following for its red wines. They usually are given unusual names like “High on the Hog” and “Right Hand Man.”  Blending Central Coast fruit, winemaker Mac Myers crafts this well-rendered Syrah that offers depth and approachability at a very attractive price.  Aged 10 months in neutral oak, it has a lovely aroma of ripe plum with secondary fragrances of pepper, spice and leather. Nothing overdone or funky here, this Syrah is rich and smooth on the palate delivering savory flavors of fresh berries, plums and spice. The tannins are soft and add roundness to the texture. Syrah lovers should keep a bottle of this “Right Hand Man” close at hand. Wine lovers should check out this winery. 92

Ancient Peaks Winery Paso Robles, Santa Margarita Ranch Renegade 2020 $26

With its “Renegade” blend, Ancient Peaks has been successful in working with Paso Syrah to come up with an attractive drink now red.  I like the way it tones down the gamey, meaty side of Syrah but still emphasizes its fruit. In 2020 the final blend was 67% Syrah, 27% Petit Verdot and 5% Malbec.  The individual components are cold soaked and after fermentation they are aged for 20 months in French and American oak, 20% new.  Dark in color, the wine shows a pleasing mix of Syrah’s dark fruit along with subtle fresh berries. It continues with this combination and adds some coffee and oak toast and spice in the flavors. Nicely structured with modest tannins, it finishes with simple fruit and good length. Excellent all-purpose red. 90

Turning to The Main Event: Cabernets

 Daou Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Paso Robles 2021 $25

This dark, ripe and juicy Cabernet is made for those who like it plump and chunky. The aroma of dark, ripe fruit with hints of anise and dried herbs sets you up for a big, rich mouthfilling wine with light toasty oak and tannins providing structure. With some airing the flavors open to reveal nuances of black tea and berry fruit before the youthful tannins are picked up to carry this to its rugged, sturdy finish.This full-bodied Cab is a blend of 83% Cabernet with 9% Petite Verdot and a splash of Merlot and it was aged for 10 months in 50% new French oak. It is a lot of wine for the money. 91

Groundwork Wine Co. Paso Robles (California) Cabernet Sauvignon, 2023 $23

Groundwork Wine is a new line of wines from Curt Schalchin of Sans Liege which is noted for its high-end Rhone blends. With Groundwork, he focuses on good value varietal wines from Paso Robles and this 2023 Cabernet confirms that Paso Robles is the real deal for great value Cabs. This 2023 is made from three vineyards within Paso, and the wine, blended with 12% Petit Verdot, was aged in neutral oak for 18 months. Bottled unfined and unfiltered, it delivers plenty of ripe black fruit with hints of black pepper and bay leaf. With light tannin, it is firmly structured and has an aftertaste of black cherry and spice. Enjoy now through 2028.  92

The Fableist Wine Co. Paso Robles (Central Coast) “373” Cabernet Sauvignon 2022 $25

Andrew Jones, winemaker for Field Recordings and Curt Schalchlin, owner of Sans Liege combine their talents for the Fableist collection of wines. The names are based on Aesop’s Fables, and apparently, judging from the label, fable #373 is about ants and bugs. Or whatever! Moving on to the wine, in the 2022 vintage the fruit was picked earlier than usual due to the heat wave. Fermented in tanks and aged in American oak barrels, 10% new, the final blend was 85% Cabernet filled out by Merlot, Malbec, Petit Verdot and Petite Sirah. Once poured, this wine shows fresh blackberry and currant aromas and flavors with youthful tannin poking through. With aeration, it slowly opens and adds a little spice and cedar to accompany the  juicy dark fruits. Needs time to settle down and should be decanted.  A good value for a Paso Cab. 90

Maddalena Paso Robles Estate Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon  2021 $24.

Part of the Riboli family’s expanding portfolio, Maddalena offers white wines from Monterey and reds from the estate vineyards in Paso Robles. Blended with 5% Petit Verdot and 5% Cabernet Franc, this Cabernet was partially aged (45%) in small oak. It is all about ultra ripe black fruit such as black cherry and plum in aroma and flavor. Medium full bodied, it comes across as plush on the palate with plenty of tannin and oak spice. It finishes on a slight tannic note.

Overall this is an attractive fruit-forward Cabernet for current drinking.  89

Paso D’Oro Wines Paso Robles Cabernet Sauvignon 2023 $23

Paso D’Oro is a relatively new brand created by the Terlato family which owns prime properties like Chimney Rock, Rutherford Hill, Sanford among others. This 2023 was sourced from 4 AVAs within Paso, and the wine was aged in neutral oak and blended with 24% Petite Sirah. Deep and dark in the glass,  it opens quickly with attractive black fruit with accents of clove and spice. Quite full bodied with rich flavors supported by velvety tannins. Smooth finish. With loads of terrific ripe fruit, pleasing texture, and some complexity, this is a great choice for current enjoyment.  91

Tooth & Nail Wine Co. Paso Robles, Cabernet Sauvignon 2020 $26

This is an old review, but it is from the winery that ignited my interest in Paso Cabernets.This vintage was presented in a unique bottle that requires a detailed background explanation and an APP to download.  But the wine inside is first-rate and a wonderful example of Paso Cabernet. Saying it “reinvented the wine label,” the winery created an augmented reality label that with the app will sing to you. Literally sing, honest. From its deep purple color to its rich, ripe aromatics, this wine sings on its own. Initial aromas of chocolate and spice give way to ripe blackberry and oak spice. It is big-bodied with a smooth unctuous texture. The flavors remain focused on ripe black fruit with dusty oak tannin in the background. The finish is long with good acidity keeping it balanced throughout. The current vintage is 2022 and sells for $28. 

Quest Austin Hope Winemaker, Paso Robles Cabernet Franc 2023 $23

The “Quest”  label is the Hope family’s long-term  commitment to Paso Cabernet Franc, and prior vintages contained some % of Cab Sauvignon. This is the first vintage made entirely from Cab Franc. The majority of the fruit sourced for the 2023 Quest Cabernet Franc was from the Creston District, Future vintages will also incorporate fruit from the Highlands District and Adelaida District.  You don’t need a SOMM course to recognize this is Cab Franc. The aroma is a textbook combination of plums, dried herbs and tobacco leaf. Medium bodied and solid, it is lively with plum and licorice flavors. Some briary tannins give a little push to the finish. Sort of like a footballer’s “tush push.”  A red to enjoy with grilled meats and rich pastas. 90

J Lohr Wines Paso Robles Los Osos Merlot 2022  $15

This Merlot is hard to beat at this price. J.Lohr’s Merlot is planted in the relatively cool El Pomar District. Blended with a big splash of Malbec (10%) and a dash of Cabernet Franc (5%), this 2022 was aged for 12 months in American oak. In an approachable and lively style, it opens with an aroma of fresh plums and light spice. Medium bodied and balanced, it offers plum and cherry flavors in a smooth package. Not flashy, just easy to enjoy.

WHITES

Sans Liege Wines Central Coast Cotes du Coast 2023 $20

Based in Paso Robles, winemaker Curt Schalchlin is a noted Rhone wine specialist. But as evidenced by his artsy labels and unconventional wine descriptions, he does things differently. Sourcing from some of the best known vineyards in Santa Barbara and elsewhere, he assembled this blend of 36% Viognier, 32% Marsanne, 17% Clairette, 11% Roussanne, and 4% Grenache Blanc. All but the Grenache are barrel fermented by native yeasts and lees aged in French oak. But the wine is, surprisingly given its composition, a smooth, subtle and lively ready to drink white. It immediately gets your attention with fresh peach, lemon and honeysuckle aromas. Medium bodied, nicely textured and vibrant, it offers stone fruit flavors and has a long finish that is neither bitter nor acidic. Charming and fun to drink and nicely priced to boot.

92

Ancient Peaks Winery Paso Robles Santa Margarita Ranch Sauvignon Blanc 2023 $18 

Made from the coolest blocks within the family’s estate vineyard, this 2023 also benefited from the relatively cool growing season. It is pale straw in color and shows plenty of vibrant fruit such as melon and pear along with light ginger and flintiness. Medium bodied, it continues with flavors of melon and lemongrass. In the crisp but lengthy finish, I pick up subtle hints of ginger and  apple. Aged for 6 months in stainless, it makes a good case for unoaked Sauvignon Blanc and pairs well with a wide range of entrees. 91

One Stone Cellars Central Coast Rose of Pinot Noir 2024 $18

One Stone is a brand created by Ancient Peaks Winery in Paso to support mentoring programs for women venturing into the wine business. The label’s image projects moving mountains one stone at a time. From the estate vineyard in Paso and others in the Central Coast, this Rose is made 100% from Pinot Noir that was grown and harvested solely for Rose production. Aged 4 months in stainless steel, it is a big friendly wine that is all about fresh strawberry and juicy watermelon aromas and flavors. Smooth and round on the palate, it finishes with a touch of acidity to sustain its lively personality. 90

Wait, There’s More

The wines mentioned so far are good examples of the great deals from Paso Robles, but they are just a solid beginning. 

The Harvey & Harriet label, associated with Booker Vineyards, offers an attractive Red Blend from Paso and a White Blend from San Luis Obispo. Both are priced below $25.

Another wine to check out is named Big, Bold Red. It is a blend of 50% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Syrah. 

Highlands 41 is a new brand from the Riboli Family. Among the first to hit the market is its 2017 “Darkness,” Estate Reserve selling for $15.00  

So, that’s for now. Many of the reviews you see here are available at www.winereviewonline.com 

Go to the sight, and specify Paso Robles to see a lot more reviews of good value wines.

Making Wine Fun Again

Wine is fun.  Fun is learning about new wines and new wine regions, discovering a great wine and food combination, and sharing tasting experiences with others. We recently formed a wine tasting group which my wife innocently began describing as WTF, meaning wine tasting friends.

Many friends both in and outside the group have been wondering WTF is going on with all the bad news about the wine business. There is a worldwide downturn in the wine market. Sales are in a nosedive, including winery direct sales. Vineyards are being removed, and in the 2025 harvest, many vineyards in France and the West Coast were not harvested. The wine news is all so negative and for many in the business it has to be depressing for sure.

Unfortunately, the way most people in the wine biz are dealing with the downturn is to play the blame game. Gen-Zers, Millennials, fancy cocktails, anti-alcohol messages, inflation, stagnation, tariffs…the list goes on. All of this finger pointing does not change the fact that wine consumption is on a serious downward path. 

Rather than looking for excuses and blaming outsiders, maybe the wine industry should look inward. 

 Looking Inward

In an open letter to his wine industry colleagues, Oded Shakked of Longboard Vineyards does just that and begins with this plea:

“Can we please stop blaming Millennials for not drinking enough wine?” He then says: “Millennials aren’t dumb” and goes on to make a case in some detail. His main point, one I agree with 100% is this:

“Maybe they don’t need a somm-certification; maybe they just need wine that doesn’t come with a lecture and a superiority complex.”  

He concludes: Millennials aren’t killing wine. They’re killing the nonsense around it and they are not buying the “exclusivity” BS we have been selling for years.” You can read his entire letter on his Facebook page and on linkedin.

Now for the message that really resonated with me. Oded adds: “ Here’s a wild idea: maybe wine should go back to being enjoyable.” 

 Making Wine Fun Again

What a crazy idea which also happens to be another one I totally agree with. The reasons behind the downturn in wine sales are complicated for sure. Expanding on Oded’s thoughts, I think the perception of wine as a luxury item promoted by the corporate thinkers was a mistake. Restaurants happily went along with that and upped the price to often absurd levels, led by wine by the glass prices. $25 for a glass of Rombauer Chardonnay? No thanks, I’ll have a martini.

So how can wineries make wine fun again? Obviously, by getting off the high-minded exclusivity message and offering wines at reasonable prices. And then keep it simple by pushing the having fun message in marketing and promoting. 

Face the Music and Dance

Exhibit A for me is a small winery that is expanding its “value line” of wines that focus on dancing:

Pedro Guillermo by Peter William “Syrah-Cha-Cha” Rogue Valley (Oregon) Syrah 2023 $19.50

This Cha-Cha wine joins the dance group kicked off by the “Tempranillo Tango.” The dance troupe includes “Robin’s Rumba.” All three wines are priced the same and convey the message that wine is fun and to be shared.  It is a healthy message that needs to be re-affirmed. Thanks to Dr. Peter Adesman and his wife, Dr. Robin Miller, who is the inspiration behind these wines. That fun message comes through loud and clear with their dance-inspired line of wines.

As for the Cha-Cha wine, it is delicious. Made from the estate vineyard and blended with a splash of Tempranillo, it is an approachable Syrah, ready to be enjoyed now. The color is dark and the dark fruit and spicy aroma emerges quickly with a little swirling. It is smooth and plush on the palate with lively flavors and good balance.  Yes, “swirling” is a hard word to avoid using here and good balance is key to success for both a wine and a dancer. 90

 Pedro Guillermo by Peter William Rogue Valley (Oregon) Sauvignon Blanc 2024 $15

Though it doesn’t have a dance theme, this Sauvignon Blanc glides nicely across the palate. 

With a little swirling, the aroma offers up citrus, green apple and a hint of grassiness. It is smooth and round on the palate and delivers plenty of ripe melon and apple flavors. Overall, this offers genuine Sauvignon Blanc character at an appealing price point. 88

Under the Peter William label, the winery offers a range of Rhone wines that are excellent values.

Peter William Vineyard Rogue Valley (Oregon) GSM 2023 $30

This is an attractive, vibrant GSM ready to be enjoyed now. Made from 37% Grenache, 42% Syrah, and 21% Mourvedre, it was aged 20 months in neutral french oak. The three components work seamlessly together as a team with the Grenache contributing raspberry and cherry aromatics, the Syrah adding depth and light pepper and spicy flavors, and the Mourvedre holding it all together while adding an earthy note. With soft tannins in the background, the lengthy finish is all about vibrant, delicious fruit.

91

Peter William Vineyard Rogue Valley (Oregon) Daisy Creek Vineyard Viognier 2024 $30

Another successful Viognier from the Daisy Creek Vineyard that captures all of the good things about Viognier and none of its excesses. This 2024 was fermented in neutral oak and aged on the lees for 4 months, and the lovely aroma combines lychee, honeysuckle with a hint of ginger. 

Rich and smooth on the palate, the flavors charm you with their youthful melon and spice accents. The finish is crisp and mouthwatering.

92

A Wake-Up Call for Wine Shoppers!

Wait. Are any wine drinkers actually shopping these days or did Amazon train us all to stay home and let others think for us? Then there was Covid  and now there’s Doordash delivering wines in some states. And subscription wine clubs are happy to deliver a box of unknown wines to your door. Oh well!

As 2025 winds down and the wine market faces a serious oversupply of wines, there’s never been a better time to shop around.  Sure, the online retailers hustling wines at WTSO.com, lastbottle.com and the rest of the gang are now offering a wider range of wines. On November 11th, winelibrary.com is set to offer a variety of wines at the $11.11 a bottle price point. By then Trader Joe’s and Costco will surely have come up with some deals for the holidays.

But the most exciting sale this week is at Grocery Outlet which has about 500 stores across the country. Yes stores, as in places you drive to, check out the shelves, load up a cart, and pay at the registers. Sounds old fashioned to many of you, but  most of us who love a wine bargain can adjust to it.

Yesterday, in a Grocery Outlet in Southern California, the shelves were practically falling over into the aisles. Piled high were wines from Cosentino, reds and whites. The 2023 Cosentino Sauvignon Blanc was excellent and sells for $11.99 a bottle. The winery’s website says that wine retails for $30 but is “out of stock.”  But Grocery Outlet has it along with Cosentino’s Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Rose and others.  It also has the Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon for $19.99 which you can buy direct from the winery for …$82.

Cosentino Vineyards developed a following for its Zinfandel,Merlot,  Cabernet Franc and Sangiovese, but founder, Mitch Cosentino, sold the winery and is no longer involved. It is now part of the Foley Family portfolio, but the overall quality is still better than that of other once-famous brands now  under corporate owners.

Back to my recent shopping adventure, Pinot Noir lovers should check their local Grocery Outlet to see if it stocks the 2021 Diora Pinot Noir from Monterey County. If you prefer Cabernet blends, then the 2019 Red Blend made by Lake Sonoma Vineyards is quite attractive. A few stores carry Napa Cabernet from Monticello Vineyards.

Yes, the offerings vary from store to store with Grocery Outlet. When it comes to bargain priced Bordeaux wines, I find Grocery Outlet is on a par with Trader Joe’s.  Decent, everyday wines from Firestone and Sebastiani are sold at many Grocery Outlets. 

Also, the end of the year is a good time to shop for Rose wines because wines from the most recent  vintage are about to hit the market. Right now, Bonny Doon 2023 Rose, the Central Coast bottling, not the Vin Gris, is a safe bet.

A Unique Take on A Wine Club

Excellent wines, low prices, no-nonsense

Looking for “A wine club with “NO commitments, NO fees, NO cards on file, NO limited selections!”? Or how about a winery dedicated to offering you the “Best bang for your buck”? Well, I happened upon a winery that meets both of these requirements. My introduction to the winery was through its press release challenging other wineries to match its record of having every wine produced rated 90 points or higher.

Challenging other wineries was a clever and unprecedented way to get attention, and it obviously worked for me. But the emphasis on a wine club open to anyone and wines pitched for value was also attention-getting. Here was one winery flying way under the radar, my kind of winery. 

But a wine club anyone can join is really not a club, is it?  Could this be some kind of come on trying to unload mediocre wine, or the real deal?

Peirano Estate Vineyards is the winery and, as I learned through conversations and tastings, is the real deal. It also does things differently, goes against the grain and does so without swagger. Better yet, it  tries to make the wine experience uncomplicated yet fun. A small  winery with no hype about icons, no rockstar winemakers, no strict allocations and waiting lists, and no luxury priced wines?

Located in Lodi, Peirano Estate is family owned and it may be one of the oldest with vineyards established in 1885. The family’s history takes you through the ups and downs of farmers before, during and after Prohibition. Check it out at: www.peirano.com

The family farm now covers 300 acres and is in the hands of the fourth generation, Lance Randolph.  He’s the guy behind the tractor, behind the wines and behind this novel wine club.

A Vineyard Guy

Lance Randolph is said to have been driving tractors up and down the vineyard at the age of six. In 1992, he ventured into winemaking, a transition made easy by being very familiar with the family vineyards. Today the Peirano vineyards are planted to Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Syrah, Viognier, and Petite Sirah. It also “has perhaps the largest single block of old, head-trained, natural rooted Zinfandel left in the state of California.”  Lance adds, “Rather than destroy these beautiful old Lodi Zinfandel vines to make way for larger yielding, more economically advantageous vines, we have decided to harvest the meager 2 tons per acre production.”

With his viticultural background, that was not an impulsive decision. Lance has explored various training and harvesting methods and the winery’s website explains his vineyard management trials and applications in great detail.  For example: “In the 1990s, Lance was one of the first to implement the Geneva Double Curtain system. This system, rather than using one cordon wire connecting the vines through the center, as done with the bilateral cordon system of the 1960s, splits the vine into two and uses two cordon wires spaced three feet apart. This method is highly advantageous for the estate Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot grapes.”  Some of the Cabernet Sauvignon is 50 years old, but the Merlot acreage is newer, planted to six clones.

Anyway, after reading the very detailed background, the one point that sticks out to me is that having gone through numerous possibilities of vineyard management, he now prefers to hand harvest all varieties. That is unusual in Lodi or anywhere today.

An Uncomplicated Business Plan

To continue the theme of going against the grain or the norm, when it comes to selling Peirano wines, the winery favors one price fits all. Whether they be white or red, varietals or blends, barrel aged or not, all 15 wines are priced at $16 a bottle. Not only is that unusual, but the winery offers a mix and match case deal  at 50% off, or $8 bucks a bottle. Shipping is a flat rate of $48. So add $4 and the bottle price is still a reasonable $12.

Why $16?

“We chose $16 per bottle because it reflects our goal of offering exceptional quality at an accessible price. Every bottle of our wine comes from estate-grown fruit—grapes we’ve farmed on our family’s Lodi vineyards for generations. The $16 price point allows us to maintain our hands-on approach in the vineyard and winery, using traditional techniques and sustainable practices, while still keeping our wines affordable enough for everyday enjoyment. It’s a balance between honoring the craftsmanship and heritage behind each bottle and ensuring our wines remain approachable to a wide range of wine lovers.”

So no surprise, the wine club is open to anyone, but how did this come about?  Lance explains:

“I started the mix & match case offer over a decade ago when I realized that all tasting rooms were using a subscription model/wine club scenario. Call me old fashioned but I hate being forced to leave my credit card on file and be told what wine I had to try because the winery was trying to “unload” it on me! So I struggled for a long time to find a unique solution that eliminates all the wine club demands. It all came to our customer needs – they want to pick and choose what they want and get those “great” wine club discounts without all of the wine club requirements. Thus – our “family plan” was born and we actively say ‘ditch the wine club experience and try our novel approach to experiencing wine!’

Welcome to the “No Wine Club Zone”  

Many people enter the”Zone” through the tasting room in Lodi. Visitors can select wines from all 15 or 16 wines available at the time. To sample five, the fee is…$10. 

Most Peirano wines offered today are reds, either blends or varietals. Among the whites, the blended “Sea Enchantress” reviewed earlier is my favorite. The Chardonnay will appeal to those preferring the ripe apple and  buttery style a la Rombauer. 

The red wines range in style from simple and approachable to big, bold and cellar-worthy. The Six Clone Merlot stood out as the best red for everyday enjoyment, and the Malbec is also noteworthy in a drink-now style. With the currently available blends, you sense that the winemaker is using a splash of old vine Zin or old vine Cabernet as his not too secret sauces. 

The first wine I tasted that contained some old vine Zin was the Red “Sea Enchantress.” Here’s my note:

Peirano Estate Vineyards, “The Sea Enchantress” Red Lodi (California) The Artist Series 2020 $16

 So in this wine they combine Petite Sirah, Old Vine Zinfandel, Tempranillo and Syrah. Then it was aged in a combination of French and American oak, 15% new. The result? Well, it is not an in your face, power-packed fruit bomb. Dark in color, it has a beautiful aroma of black olive, licorice, with some blackberry and light oak toast. The ripe flavors offer lots of plum and light cinnamon supported by gentle tannins. Made in a big and approachable style, this is an absolute steal at this price. 92

After that initial encounter,  little encouragement was needed for me to explore more Peirano wines. Of the several red blends reviewed here, the differences between one and another were not dramatic. But they are different, and fun to taste. 

The family apparently has some fun with naming their wines. There’s “Immortal Zin” and “The Other,” along with “Sea Enchantress” and “Illusion,” both labels based on paintings by Alexis Randolph, representing the fifth generation. The 3 components for “The Other”  Red are listed as”This,That, and The Other.”  The back label adds the wine is “Sin-sually delicious.”

 The following notes highlight two of my favs. But for reviews on many others:, go to winereviewonline.com

Peirano Estate Vineyards Lodi (California) Old Vine ”Immortal Zin”  2022 $16

Hand harvested from 120 year old, head prune vines, this is an amazing wine to taste. The deep, dark color and concentrated flavors are expected, but the pleasure here is in the ultra-smooth, velvety texture. Blackberry and strawberry are the central themes, but there’s a floral element that elevates the aroma. Some spice and juicy ripe fruit flavors along with an earthy background continue well into the juicy finish. There’s so much going on you aren’t aware that the wine is 15.5% in alcohol. 93

Peirano Estate Vineyards The Heritage Collection, Lodi (California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2022 $16

From 50 year old vines, this wine was fermented by 3 methods: static, cold soak and rotary fermentation. It was also given extended maceration time and oak aged for one year. It opens gradually to reveal an aroma of ripe plum and graphite along with a slight floral and spice touch. Medium full bodied with concentrated black fruit flavors, it comes across the palate as soft and smooth. With integrated tannins, this is one to enjoy over the next few years.The style is big and juicy with good Cabernet aromatics and flavors presented on a solid framework. 92

Exploring the Past, Present and Future of Turkish Wines

Wine lovers with an unquenchable thirst for wine knowledge should check out a new book. It is all about the past, present and future of Turkish wines. If you are a serious student of wine, this book will fill a big gap in your wine odyssey.

As Emmie, the author explains: “The exciting ride Turkish vignerons embarked on in the 1990s is continuing with passion.” And as we also learn in Turkish Wines: “The story of Turkish wine is still unfolding, and chapters are yet to be written.” 

Several years ago, as I stood with glass in hand, a small group of visitors to the historic Guglielmo Winery in Morgan Hill were listening attentively to the origins and history of the Grignolino grape variety.  Not only was the information conveyed with ease, and the tone struck was natural, not intimidating, and it was obvious the person behind the tasting room bar loved wine. 

That was my first encounter with Emmie. While we talked later about Petite Sirah and other wines, I soon learned that Mehtap Emmie Turan was born and raised in Turkey.  

Answering questions from winery visitors is not easy but it was the first step in her personal wine odyssey. After enrolling in numerous wine classes focusing on the wines of the world, and also traveling extensively throughout the wine world, she returned to her homeland to further her education. 

Despite a history of winemaking going back 8,000 years, Turkey has been overlooked or cast aside by today’s wine journalist. Combining her passion for wine with her pride of country, Emmie set about to correct that.

Focused on “The Past, Present and Future, “ this book opens with a deep dive into the ancient history of grape growing and winemaking, guides you through the ups and downs of Turkish wines, especially over the last century, and leads you up to the still unfolding story of its wines today. But it is not only wine focused. No, this book is loaded with personal experiences, candid observations, and often returns to shine the spotlight on people, places, politics and religion. 

With each major section, Emmie adopts the tone that best conveys the subject at hand. Only a scholarly tone can succeed in presenting the various possibilities of the birthplace of wine. When talking about the interaction between politics and religion that takes you up to and through the Ottoman Empire, well, that needs the neutral voice of a historian. There’s no sugar-coating when she addresses the past and present roadblocks, whether they be from politics, economics, or religion. For Turkish wine, it has been indeed a “tough row to hoe.”

Moving on to the resurgence of wine from the 1980s to the present, Emmie comfortably switches to the voice of the knowledgeable wine educator and wine lover. Sometimes she simply asks a question such as should Turkey’s major regions carve out AOCs like the French. Her breakdown of the different wine regions along with the profiles of the grape varieties, indigenous as well as international, will likely be part of a standard wine curriculum in the not too distant future.

Exploring Turkey’s primary wine regions is the heart of the book. As Emmie verbally escorts readers from one region to another, each section is full of first hand information about the wineries, the varieties grown there, and her personal travel notes to maximize a visit along each region’s wine routes. This part of the book comes across as your personal guide, recalling that naturally comfortable voice I overheard back at the tasting room in Morgan Hill. 

I read her book in bits and pieces because there is so much to digest and so much to think about after each section. She opens topics up for discussion in her comments about charting a course, global opportunities, wine tourism, and niche marketing. Even her asides are thought provoking. Make sure to read her views on women in the wine business. 

Finally, the beautiful photographs throughout this book leave no doubt that Turkey’s fascinating history, current wines and timeless beauty should be better known to all wine lovers.  

And yes, I learned a lot from this book and was honored, when my friend Emmie asked me to write the Foreword.

Available at Amazon, but also direct from Mission View Press. Price is $36.99 with free shipping.

contact the author at missionviewpress@gmail.com

Payment by PayPal missionviewpress@gmail.com, Zelle missionviewpress

Checking the Lists of Best Wines of 2024

“The Best Wines of 2024” lists keep coming our way in December as each day another one pops up.  The major publications like The Wine Spectator and the Wine Enthusiast magazines have been offering these Best of the Year lists for decades. Both recently announced their 2024  100 best wines. Though they try to make the announcements dramatic, both The Wine Spectator and the Wine Enthusiasts annual lists have lost whatever drama and sizzle they may once have had.  

No surprise since by now most readers have figured out these lists are either payback for an advertiser or fodder for a PR campaign from the producer. Many of the wines are off the market by year’s end, so the lists are often not useful as buying guides.

 What criteria are used to come up with the typical Best of lists is an interesting subplot. It seems that the major publications ask each reviewer for his or her candidates for best of the year. Scores on the 100 point system are a major consideration, but every so often a wine touted for great value makes the list. But it has to also be rated in the 90-94 point range, of course. I applaud the fact that the Enthusiast also publishes an annual list of great values. 

Listicles

Lists have emerged as a popular format that has taken over the internet over the last decade. “Listicles” have replaced articles in a way. Probably because the number appears in the title or subject line and it sounds newsworthy. More likely, search engines love them. 

Or most likely because a list is easy to compile, while articles need a thesis and require some command of the language to present the argument or position. It wouldn’t surprise me to learn some of these Top 100 lists of wines or of other subjects are done by AI. 

But since listicles, whether compiled by humans or non-humans, have now become a mainstream communications format, I still look them over. One that caught my eye was an end of the year “The Best Argentinian Wines of 2024.”  It appeared at Wine-Searcher, a highly respected and popular website. Like many of my colleagues, I find Argentina to be one of the most dynamic wine countries to follow. The list was based on the 100 point scoring system used by the major reviewers.

As I made my way through the top ten, things got weird. After noting how wonderful Argentina is I read that “prices remain as attractive as ever.” All good. Then the stuff hit the fan. The #1 wine was priced at $245 a bottle, #2 at $226, and, well, the least expensive wine was $128.  Only one white wine made the list, it was a Catena Chardonnay, and the list maker noted, “the White Bones Chardonnay back in 2015 sat at $105, today it comes in at an average of $137. ”  For a Chardonnay from Argentina?

Excuse me, but none of those are attractive prices nor are wines priced at triple digits what Argentina is best known for. Back to Argentina wine #1 in this  wine-searcher list I read, “It’s also extremely attractive pricewise, having gone from $153 in 2020 to today’s price of $246.” 

So that’s what happens when the selection is based on wine ratings from the prime time reviewers. You end up with a list of wines that normal people, non-snobs will never find even if they were fool enough to pay these exorbitant prices.

The Better “Best of Wine” Lists

But for the rest of us, a few “Best of” lists are well worth reading.  James Suckling is much better with the top wines of Argentina. As you go through the list of top 100 wines, you hear about trends and are alerted to new wines to look for. Here’s the method behind the choices: “In curating this year’s Top 100 Wines of Argentina list, we prioritized quality, value for money, each wine’s “wow” factor and general market availability.” 

And as for trend-spotting, Suckling adds this: “Chardonnay may dominate the 14 white wines featured on this list, but rising interest in old-vine semillons and chenin blanc highlights the growing diversity of Argentine whites.”  Suckling’s list also mentions Cabernet Franc, a rising star, and also a Torrontes, the often overlooked wine, made by Susana Balbo.

The “wow factor” is also part of another fascinating list offered by the New York Times list of “Most Memorable” wines of 2024. Compiled by Eric Asimov, the wines are chosen for their quality but also for their impact on the taster and for the reactions they spark. You know, human reactions. And the pleasure wine brings to people. 

Forbes offered several Best of lists. One is “The World’s Best Wine Values of 2024.” Fascinating selections that show a lot of thought went into them.  

Better yet, Forbes asked writer Katie Bell for her “Best Wines of 2024” and she came up with a fabulous list. Her premise, which I thoroughly  support is this: 

“Every year I take note of the wines that moved me, rocked my universe or dazzled me with their quality at an unbelievable price. Long ago I started sharing this list because the best things in life are shared and wine is the ultimate shared experience.” Looking for values and believing that wines are for sharing, now that’s the basis of a great list.

Among the wines she lists are an under the radar Oregon Pinot Noir from Maysara, a white wine from Greece and a Viura from Spain. Oh, and a wine from Argentina: a Malbec from Catena that sells for $20.

And one other list really caught my attention a few days ago. It was posted on Jeb Dunnick’s website. He, of course, offered his top 100 wines, but the list that everyone should read is the Top 50 Best wines of 2024 by R. Drexel. It begins with a Chenin Blanc from  Nalley, a winery new to me and moves along with all kinds of thought-provoking choices and ends up with the #1 wine of the year being a Grenache. A Napa Valley Grenache…totally unexpected but makes me want to get my hands on a bottle.

Discovering a new wine. Now that’s a great way to end a year or celebrate the New Year.

In 2025, Let’s Make Wine Fun Again!