Tag: wine

Discover the Hidden Gems of Fort Ross Vineyard

People living on the edge, the bet it all risk takers, and even those simply taking the less traveled road are exceptions in today’s wine world. Because they don’t follow conventional wisdom or marketing trends, these outliers can be exciting to follow. And when they succeed, they can come up with brilliant wines. But by going against the grain they risk going unnoticed, flying way under the radar of wine writers, somms, and influencers. 

Well, this writer was lucky to have been directed to one of those wineries by a good friend, and after tasting through the wines, I’m going to blow through the cloud cover and shine the spotlight on a great discovery: Fort Ross Vineyard.

In 1988, when phylloxera was beginning to take its toll in the North Coast wine regions, Lester and Linda Schwartz purchased a large slice of rugged land on a steep coastal ridge above the Pacific Ocean near the historic Russian settlement of Fort Ross. In 1994 they established Fort Ross Vineyard and made their first wine in 2000.

First, the Vineyard Story

 South African natives who had immigrated to the San Francisco Bay Area in the 1970s, they appreciated  fine wine and food and were convinced the site was suitable for growing wine grapes. Located 5 miles north of Jenner, their land is literally along the Coast of Sonoma. As an AVA, the “Sonoma Coast” extends inland and includes parts of Carneros, Russian River Valley  and the so-called Petaluma Gap. The land they were considering turning into a vineyard, however, would be the closest in California to the Pacific Ocean.

So, to review, 1988 was not the best of times for venturing into winemaking and the site sitting above and less than a mile in from the Ocean had not yet been explored.  There were many risks but the elevations of these potential vineyards range dramatically from 1,200 to 1,700 feet, or just above the coastal fog.

In 1991 Lester ordered two dozen dormant rootstocks, and when the initial plantings proved successful, the couple expanded their experiment, planting a test vineyard with 16 varieties, three trellis systems, assorted clones and several rootstocks. 

When all of the extensive trials were evaluated, they developed a vineyard  which now consists of four varieties: Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Chenin Blanc and Pinotage.  No surprise with the first two; Sonoma Coast Chardonnay and Pinot Noir were made famous by the likes of Marcassin, Flowers, Hirsch, and Peter Michael  But their vineyards are hidden away inland, not along the riskier coast.  

And although both Chenin Blanc and Pinotage are popular in South Africa, no one else, except  native South Africans, would even think about planting them in California. Chenin Blanc had fallen out of favor by 1991 and there was nowhere you could obtain Pinotage vines. 

Not a problem for them. They sourced Pinotage budwood from two of the finest sites in South Africa, and became the first independent growers to import grapevine cuttings from there through the Foundation Plant Services that operates alongside the U.C. Davis School of Viticulture and Enology. 

Then when they laid out their vineyard, they didn’t take the easy way of uniformity. Instead, the Fort Ross Seaview Vineyard comprises 32 vineyard blocks over 53 planted acres, with each block varying in size from approximately one-half to two acres each.  Having 32 blocks is not the easy way to plant, to tend, and to harvest for sure. 

But each block is based upon a carefully selected clone and rootstock for the variety. The vineyard is planted with heritage clones and field selections, which generally produce low yields with small bunches and berries that deliver very distinct wines.  

  • Pinot Noir – Calera, Pommard, Swan, Dijon clones 115 and 777
  • Chardonnay – Old Hyde, Wente, 
  • Pinotage – Proprietary clones MM1, MM3 from South African budwood

Now for the Wines

Fort Ross Vineyard Seaview Sonoma Coast Pinotage 2019 $62

If you’re unfamiliar with Pinotage, here’s a great place to start. Created by crossing Pinot Noir with Cinsault, Pinotage led the way to the revival of winemaking in South Africa. At the time, Cinsault was associated with Hermitage which explains the “tage” in the name. This rendition from Fort Ross is a stunning example.  

After the fruit was hand harvested in early October of 2019, winemaker Jeff Pisoni aged the wine for 12 months in 20% new French oak and bottled it unfined and unfiltered. In the glass this wine is quite dark in color with an intriguing aroma that leans slightly toward the earthy Rhone side with berry fruit, green tea and cassis. On the palate it is vibrant and energized with black plum, spice and tea leaf flavors that are supported by velvety tannins. Finishes with good length, suggesting this would reward lengthy cellaring. Not to sound corny, but it does capture the earthiness of a Rhone and the velvety smooth texture of a Pinot. Who knew?  360 cases made 94

Fort Ross Vineyard  Fort Ross-Seaview Sonoma Coast, Chenin Blanc 2023 $44

Popular decades ago and made in a slightly sweet style, Chenin Blanc rarely gets anyone’s attention these days and few people know that it can yield an excellent dry wine.  Cool climate Chenin Blanc is rare in California with most acreage now in warm sites. In its third vintage of estate grown Chenin Blanc, Fort Ross came up with an extraordinary rendition. It  brings together concentration, energy, complexity in a seamless package. 

In the glass it is light yellow with a healthy green tint and the Initial assertive aroma asserts itself in a combination of lemon meringue and fresh pear. With airing, the aroma takes on some ginger spice and melon. On the palate it is medium bodied with concentrated flavors of lemon and stone fruits. From start to finish it is solidly structured and remains lively on the palate. With its crisp acidity, the flavors continue to a crisp finish with background notes of honeysuckle and bosc pear fruit. Unquestionably one of the finest Chenins in my experience, the wine was made by Jeff Pisoni who aged 80% of the wine in neutral French oak for seven months and bottled it unfiltered. 100 cases made. 95

And Now Bring On the Clones

Fort Ross Vineyard Stagecoach Road Fort Ross-Seaview Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir 2022 $80

This pitch perfect Pinot is from two clones (Calera and Pommard) planted on steep hillsides overlooking the Pacific Ocean. Early spring rains during flowering reduced the crop in 2022 and at the harvest the berries were unusually small. That comes across once the wine is poured and the color is a deep garnet. Initial scents of cranberry and plum with anise are a bit reticent, but with airing and swirling, black cherry, tea and toasty oak scents emerge. 

Smooth and silky on the palate, it offers concentrated flavors of cherry and earthy, forest floor that are bright and charming with very light tannins. Youthful and balanced, it was showing even greater harmony a day later, indicating a long future lies ahead. But can be enjoyed whenever the mood hits.  230 cases.  94

Fort Ross Vineyard The Terraces Fort Ross-Seaview Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir 2022 $80

Pinot lovers should make room in their cellars for this one. From a low yielding vintage, this Pinot was made from a vineyard block planted entirely to the Calera clone, and the wine was aged for 11 months in French oak, 40% new. Known for its small berries, high acidity and solid frame, the Calera clone is often a key component in multi-clone Pinots. 

Once poured, this ‘22  gets your attention with its lovely ripe plum and raspberry aroma, and the palate impression also makes it stand out with its bright cherry flavors along with definite oak spice and youthful acidity. Concentrated with some tannic grip, this one is for the cellar and, with aging, it should be outstanding. 250 cases made 94-95

For the Final Touch: Chardonnay

Not surprisingly, the Fort Ross Chardonnay is not your Rombauer’s  buttery, oaky, commercial stuff.  To begin with, the  clones planted are the Went and Hyde  field selections, seldom seen these days. Grown in the coastal, breezy climate, the vines in 2022 yielded a small crop.

But once poured, the ‘22 Chardonnay announces its individuality with its unusual yellow color. Then the aroma is fresh and vibrant with lovely apple, and lemon as it expands.

On the palate the apple and stone fruit flavors are concentrated and sustained right through a long finish. It also is one of the very few Chardonnays that will reward cellaring which became apparent when it showed great complexity 24 hours after being opened.

So there you have it. 

Go to http://www.fortrossvineyard.com to get on their mailing list. 

You can purchase new releases at a 10% discount and don’t have to be club members.

Also, they now have a line of wines called Sea Slopes to supply top restaurants and wine shops in select markets around the country.

Sea Slopes wines are made by the same winemaker using the estate vineyards.

Sales Alert!

At Tooth & Nail which is one of my favs. Great wines from Paso and the Central Coast.

Shop at  toothandnailwine.com

Here you go:

“We are opening our warehouse for a major sale of all of our wines.

All of our wines are now 40% off and if you’re a member with us, you’ll receive an additional 10% off, making all of our wines 50% off for our members.

Since our tasting room is closed, this is an online offer only with complimentary shipping on orders of $100 or more.”

While supplies last. All sales are final.

For reviews, see the reviews at winereviewonline.com

I love the Syrahs and gave one of their Grenache a score of 97 points!

There are several different labels, such as:

Amor Fati: Syrah, Grenache, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, all from cool climates.

For me, these 4 were love at first taste. All scored 92 points or higher. See reviews at 

http://www.winereviewonline.com

 Stasis: Pinot Noir from Santa Maria and a Viognier. Both excellent.
Destinata: Drink now, no fanfare Chenin Blanc, Riesling, and Syrah. All good. All fun. Especially the drink-now style Syrah. The dry Riesling and Chenin will surprise you.

Tasting Well-Aged Cult Wines 

 

As 2024 was coming to an end, I had an opportunity to taste two aged Napa Valley cult wines.  They were the Bond 2007 Pluribus and the 2011 The Mascot. Both belong to the father of cult wines, Bill Harlan of Harlan Estate. 

Just to make sure I got a good fix on the aging trajectory of these two, the bottles before me were half bottles, 375ml. There’s no argument that wine ages faster in half-bottles, we just don’t know how much faster. Both bottles before me had excellent levels of fill, and the corks were in excellent condition. There was some sediment on both corks. Those signs usually indicate the wines were properly cellared.

Parker’s Wine Advocate rated the 07 Pluribus 98+ and the Spectator gave it a 97.  From Parker’s notes, it was  “A wine of great intensity and full-bodied power yet with a freshness and delineation that are remarkable, this stunning wine should drink well for 25-30 years. Drink: 2010-2040.” 

The Wine Spectator reported: “Wonderful aromatics lead to a rich, layered mix of spicy currant, blackberry, wild berry and currant flavors that are full-bodied, intense, dense and concentrated, slow to reveal pleasing earth, black licorice, graphite and roasted herb. The tannins give the flavors great traction. To be released spring 2011. Best from 2012 through 2024. 566 cases made. “ 

Yes, both publications were reviewing the wine several months before it was released to the public.  That both these guys were given special treatment might explain the use of words like “stunning” and “wonderful” as some sort of indirect payback for advanced review samples. 

To return to the wines, here are my notes for the 07 Pluribus:

Good dark color.  With aeration, the nose was vague and with diligent swirling showed dried prune, a hint of tobacco, and walnut. Overall, it smelled like old wine. The body was smooth and the flavors were gentle. But the wine was going gently into that good night for sure. 

It would not surprise me to hear the Pluribus is now over the hill in a standard bottle. The value given it by wine-searcher is $525. Then again, people who pay that kind of money for a bottle are not likely to ever say they were disappointed if only to protect their ego and reputation.  As for some background, the Bond Pluribus which debuted in 2003  is from a  mountainous 7-acre site in the Spring Mountain District with steep exposures to the north, east and southeast. It comes with a high price and wine pedigree and was sold only to members  on a mailing list.

Among Harlan’s other wine projects is  “The Mascot” which was the brainstorm of his son, Will.  This wine was a Cabernet made from a selection of younger vines from the primary estate vineyards, and The Mascot made its debut in 2008. As I understand it, The Mascot was made from a selection of new vines created by the routine replanting procedure. The concept is similar to the way many of Bordeaux’s famous estates produce wine from young vines and they are known as “second label” wines. 

In 2018, Decanter Magazine reviewed the 2011 The Mascot and the description is interesting. I was intrigued by the last line: “2011 was a relatively cool year, which gives the wine its freshness. The nose is vibrant and seductive, with blackcurrant aromas. Sumptuous and concentrated on the palate, it’s also sustained by firm tannins and sufficient acidity. The finish is robust and long, and although intended to be drunk on release, it will certainly age.”

So seven years after the vintage and after being bottle aged for five years,  The 2011 Mascot seemed to have surprised the Brits, even though they awarded it only 92 points, as capable of further cellaring. The current vintage is priced from $125 a bottle on up, and according to wine-searcher, you can buy the 2011 for the same price at several retailers in the UK.

Of the two wines I tasted, The Mascot was more attractive and in much better condition. Even in a half-bottle, it opened up with airing and displayed a delicate aroma or bouquet of dark fruit and dried herbs. It was soft and harmonious on the palate and had just a touch of velvety tannin left that carried through in the aftertaste. It is 4 years younger and tasted younger. But on its own, it may have been more exciting to taste in 2018. 

The Takeaways

Tasting old wines is an experience that should never be passed up, but often it is not a pleasurable experience. 

Not all wines get better with age is an old saying but even those capable of aging dont always reward long term cellaring. 

With aged wine, it often turned out that each individual bottle ages differently. This I’ve learned over the years: two bottles from the same case in the same cellar  can and often do, taste different. Wine is full of surprises, both pleasant and disappointing.

As for wine reviewers suggesting a wine’s aging capability is a sign of greatness, it is at best a guess. People like Parker and many Somms today pump themselves up believing they have a special gift.  

Maybe they should heed Mark Twain’s view: “It is difficult to make predictions, especially about the future.”

Do you know the way to Vezelay?

Do you know the way to Vezelay? Well, it leads to a great wine discovery in France and I, pumped up like a new WSET level 4 “expert,” was about to invite you to come along in the journey, only to be brought back to reality. As I learned from a little research. My discovery road trip was 40 years too late.  I found that out when I opened a favorite book from my wine library.

In 1988 in his Adventures of the Wine Route Kermit Lynch described Vezelay as a then “freshly minted AOC capable of producing distinct, world-class Chardonnay.” Just to rub it in a little further, my discovery was a 2022 wine made by Domaine Montanet-Thoden. Kermit’s reference was to Vezelay wine  “especially in the hands of a vigneron as talented as Valentin Montanet.” Same family of winemakers, just different generations.

Well, better late than never, or whatever cliche AI might use. Another point brought home to me when browsing through the Kermit Lynch book is how mechanical, predictable and boring a lot of wine reviews have become these days.  Here’s how Lynch described the Vezelay Chardonnay: “This climate, a clay-and-limestone soil, and stainless-steel vinification are the pillars of Valentin’s Galerne Blanc, a divine rendition of pure, chiseled Chardonnay, bearing notes of orchard fruit, citrus, and oyster shells.” 

a divine rendition of pure, chiseled Chardonnay.

Yep, he described the wine as “a divine rendition of pure, chiseled Chardonnay.” If this has caught your attention, you should try to get hold of the latest edition of  Adventures of the Wine Route which is available from Amazon. 

The writing style is so different from today’s wine ramblings.  It was not only written in a different era in which Lynch was not shackled by the 100 point rating system but it is also written from the point of a view of a wine retailer, a wine merchant. A self-taught wine merchant who approaches visiting wine regions as an “adventure” no less. Not a SOMM, not a WSET holder, not an influencer.

Returning  to Vezelay

And now back to Vezelay and what I learned. It is located south of Chablis and its winemaking goes back for centuries. The medieval village was an important resting place in pilgrimages. And of course, good pilgrims likely enjoyed the local wine. But the vineyards were pretty much wiped out by phylloxera, and it was not until the late 1970s that replanting was underway. 

By 1985, the vineyards were still growing and they were merged into the Burgundy AOC. A few years later they were upgraded to the regional AOC of “Bourgogne-Vezelay.”

Montanet-Thoden, the producer that I “discovered,”  was founded in 2000 by Catherine Montanet of Domaine de La Cadette in collaboration with Tom Thoden. Around that time they planted 6 hectares of Chardonnay and farmed them organically in Vezelay. Largely due to their efforts, Vezelay was granted AOC status in 2017. 

The soils are said to have more clay than Chablis, but they still have a good amount of limestone for their minerality.  Most of the Vezelay vineyards are planted along the higher elevations of the region. Montanet-Thoden Bourgogne Vézelay Blanc Le Galerne is the wine’s full identity, and “Le Galerne” refers to the wind that also helps define this appellation.

In a review posted in winereviewonline.com I gave Domaine Montanet-Thoden Bourgogne Vézelay Blanc Le Galerne 2022 which sells for $39 with a rating of 93. 

Now I realize how impersonal any score is. But I did describe the wine as having oyster shell minerality, and wish I could have come up with “divine, pure chiseled Chardonnay.”  

Checking the Lists of Best Wines of 2024

“The Best Wines of 2024” lists keep coming our way in December as each day another one pops up.  The major publications like The Wine Spectator and the Wine Enthusiast magazines have been offering these Best of the Year lists for decades. Both recently announced their 2024  100 best wines. Though they try to make the announcements dramatic, both The Wine Spectator and the Wine Enthusiasts annual lists have lost whatever drama and sizzle they may once have had.  

No surprise since by now most readers have figured out these lists are either payback for an advertiser or fodder for a PR campaign from the producer. Many of the wines are off the market by year’s end, so the lists are often not useful as buying guides.

 What criteria are used to come up with the typical Best of lists is an interesting subplot. It seems that the major publications ask each reviewer for his or her candidates for best of the year. Scores on the 100 point system are a major consideration, but every so often a wine touted for great value makes the list. But it has to also be rated in the 90-94 point range, of course. I applaud the fact that the Enthusiast also publishes an annual list of great values. 

Listicles

Lists have emerged as a popular format that has taken over the internet over the last decade. “Listicles” have replaced articles in a way. Probably because the number appears in the title or subject line and it sounds newsworthy. More likely, search engines love them. 

Or most likely because a list is easy to compile, while articles need a thesis and require some command of the language to present the argument or position. It wouldn’t surprise me to learn some of these Top 100 lists of wines or of other subjects are done by AI. 

But since listicles, whether compiled by humans or non-humans, have now become a mainstream communications format, I still look them over. One that caught my eye was an end of the year “The Best Argentinian Wines of 2024.”  It appeared at Wine-Searcher, a highly respected and popular website. Like many of my colleagues, I find Argentina to be one of the most dynamic wine countries to follow. The list was based on the 100 point scoring system used by the major reviewers.

As I made my way through the top ten, things got weird. After noting how wonderful Argentina is I read that “prices remain as attractive as ever.” All good. Then the stuff hit the fan. The #1 wine was priced at $245 a bottle, #2 at $226, and, well, the least expensive wine was $128.  Only one white wine made the list, it was a Catena Chardonnay, and the list maker noted, “the White Bones Chardonnay back in 2015 sat at $105, today it comes in at an average of $137. ”  For a Chardonnay from Argentina?

Excuse me, but none of those are attractive prices nor are wines priced at triple digits what Argentina is best known for. Back to Argentina wine #1 in this  wine-searcher list I read, “It’s also extremely attractive pricewise, having gone from $153 in 2020 to today’s price of $246.” 

So that’s what happens when the selection is based on wine ratings from the prime time reviewers. You end up with a list of wines that normal people, non-snobs will never find even if they were fool enough to pay these exorbitant prices.

The Better “Best of Wine” Lists

But for the rest of us, a few “Best of” lists are well worth reading.  James Suckling is much better with the top wines of Argentina. As you go through the list of top 100 wines, you hear about trends and are alerted to new wines to look for. Here’s the method behind the choices: “In curating this year’s Top 100 Wines of Argentina list, we prioritized quality, value for money, each wine’s “wow” factor and general market availability.” 

And as for trend-spotting, Suckling adds this: “Chardonnay may dominate the 14 white wines featured on this list, but rising interest in old-vine semillons and chenin blanc highlights the growing diversity of Argentine whites.”  Suckling’s list also mentions Cabernet Franc, a rising star, and also a Torrontes, the often overlooked wine, made by Susana Balbo.

The “wow factor” is also part of another fascinating list offered by the New York Times list of “Most Memorable” wines of 2024. Compiled by Eric Asimov, the wines are chosen for their quality but also for their impact on the taster and for the reactions they spark. You know, human reactions. And the pleasure wine brings to people. 

Forbes offered several Best of lists. One is “The World’s Best Wine Values of 2024.” Fascinating selections that show a lot of thought went into them.  

Better yet, Forbes asked writer Katie Bell for her “Best Wines of 2024” and she came up with a fabulous list. Her premise, which I thoroughly  support is this: 

“Every year I take note of the wines that moved me, rocked my universe or dazzled me with their quality at an unbelievable price. Long ago I started sharing this list because the best things in life are shared and wine is the ultimate shared experience.” Looking for values and believing that wines are for sharing, now that’s the basis of a great list.

Among the wines she lists are an under the radar Oregon Pinot Noir from Maysara, a white wine from Greece and a Viura from Spain. Oh, and a wine from Argentina: a Malbec from Catena that sells for $20.

And one other list really caught my attention a few days ago. It was posted on Jeb Dunnick’s website. He, of course, offered his top 100 wines, but the list that everyone should read is the Top 50 Best wines of 2024 by R. Drexel. It begins with a Chenin Blanc from  Nalley, a winery new to me and moves along with all kinds of thought-provoking choices and ends up with the #1 wine of the year being a Grenache. A Napa Valley Grenache…totally unexpected but makes me want to get my hands on a bottle.

Discovering a new wine. Now that’s a great way to end a year or celebrate the New Year.

In 2025, Let’s Make Wine Fun Again!

Chablis’ Dirty Little Secret

Chablis may well be one of the most recognizable wine names and also among the most  misunderstood by wine consumers. Some old-timers associate the Chablis name with cheap jug white wine. Then the French don’t help by their obsessive categorization of wine regions. So there are 4 types of Chablis which is a major wine region located in the northeast of France, all made 100% from Chardonnay. 

The four types which are really appellations are: Grand Cru, Premier Cru, Chablis, and Petit Chablis. And the most understood is “Petit Chablis.”  And the most likely of the four to offer super bang for your bucks is…Petit Chablis. So do I have your attention now?

Petit Chablis has nothing to do with being little, but everything to do with place and soils. That’s what most French wine is all about, in case you forgot. While the other categories of Chablis share a type of ancient limestone soil known as Kimmeridgian, Petit Chablis is grown on a more recent type of limestone categorized as Portlandian. 

As vineyards were expanded in Chablis, all of the vineyards on this type of soil were most often on the higher slopes or the beginning of the plateau. In other words, on the outskirts.   A relative newcomer in French wine history,  Petit Chablis became official in 1944.

By today’s standards, the vineyards of Petit Chablis which now represent 20% of all Chablis are not inferior so much as they are not located on that precious ancient limestone soil. And, no surprise, Somms and influencers thrive on babbling about how much they know about the 180 million year old soils. And that rant might lead to terroir, another soil-related subject SOMMS will beat to death.

So back to plain talk and the wine that ignited this conversation.

The wine is: Prieuré Saint-Come Petit Chablis (France)  2021 $25 and I’ve seen it selling for $20. 

It is bright and lively from the get-go with an aroma of fresh cut apple, and a little hint of lemongrass and citrus. The taste is again vibrant with tart apple and a chalky, crisp aftertaste that is a hallmark of Chablis. ALL Chablis.  This Petit has all the right stuff without oak and is moderate in alcohol, so it invites a second glass and is ever so food-friendly.

Fresh, lively, and with no ponderous oak or alcohol, Petit Chablis is worth exploring as a white wine that happens to be made from Chardonnay. In addition to the wine mentioned earlier, here are my 5 suggestions of the leading producers of Petit Chablis.

Domaine Jean-Marc Brocard 

Michel Laroche et Ses Enfants 

Samuel Billaud

Domaine Jolly et Fils

Domaine Roland Lavantureux

The Mad Crush: An Insider’s View

If you are looking for a gift for the special wine drinker in your life, here’s a suggestion that is a sure bet to please, and it is NOT a wine.

The Mad Crush, a new edition written by Sean Weir is highly recommended for those who are into wine or remotely curious but also for anyone out there dreaming about starting a winery.  Available on Amazon ($14.95) this new edition is beautifully written by someone who knows his wine but more importantly, knows how to engage and entertain the reader. 

It is an easy read, but also hard to put down.

On one level, it is the story of Bill Greenough, who “left a successful business world in favor of moving to a remote canyon, digging out an abandoned old vineyard, and making wine off the grid.” The vineyard was established in 1880, abandoned after Prohibition, and Greenough began the process of restoring that vineyard in 1974. Today, the original 3-acre block of head pruned Zinfandel is still producing. Located in what’s known as the Edna Valley today, It is the oldest in San Luis Obispo County. Greenough added 6 acres of Zin in the 1970s and 80s.

The winery is now in the hands of  the second generation and still focusing on Zinfandel.

On another level, the book is also the story of this old vineyard established about 150 years ago which was tended to by several generations who like Greenough become full time stewards of the vines and the land. Along the way the book gives life to many of the cliches tossed around in the wine world. Among them are winemakers being caretakers of the land or stewards as many now like to say, along with communicating with the vines. Stuff like this is made believable through Weir’s first hand experiences and poignant observations.

What held my attention from the first page is the feeling the book is also about the author as he comes to understand the commitment needed to succeed in tending vines and making wines. And as the process unfolds, it may all sound romantic but you sense he comes to realize that pursuing the dream of becoming a winemaker, a dream so many people have shared, is not for everybody. 

Weir grew up in the wine country. He worked in the cellars of Kenwood Vineyard and saw first hand how the partners worked hard to make a go of it.  In 1992 as a student at Cal Poly in San Luis Obispo, he worked one summer as a cellar rat with Greenough as he revived the old vineyard. 

In 1995, out of the blue, Greenough contacts him to work the harvest. That included monitoring the vines as they matured, cleaning the winery, and  preparing for the harvest, crush, and fermentations. That experience, he explains, “is what ultimately drove him to write the book.” As the story unfolds, readers learn a lot about vines, making wines, cleaning, and dealing with the weather, equipment, and the workers during the harvest and crush. It is an inside look at the nitty-gritty, the dusty, dirty boots side of winemaking, not to forget the long hours.

When you go to Amazon for the book, there’s a plot summary. This is a revised edition and includes an afterword and a section called “Prunings,” consisting of some tidbits and stories that didn’t fit the main story.

As for the author, when asked about his winemaking experience after 1995, Sean notes:  “That was my third and final crush. That was enough for me. I caught the winemaking bug, but it wasn’t terminal.”

New Faces and Places: Sauvignon Blanc Rises Again

Sauvignon Blanc has been increasing in popularity and some experts are calling it the next hot wine. While I do believe Sauvignon Blanc deserves to become better known, what fascinates me is the way many of today’s most talented and daring winemakers are working toward a new interpretation. In this new style, it is sort of a marriage between the best of New Zealand Sauvignon and the best features of Lore Valley’s versions such as Sancerre and Pouilly–Fume.

But first, thanks to the boatloads of Sauvignon Blanc coming our way from New Zealand, Sauvignon Blanc is now familiar to most wine drinkers. Some may not like the assertive style of New Zealand with its sharp green, herbal aroma and piercing acidity. But led by the ubiquitous Kim Crawford, Sauvignon Blanc is at least back in the game. So it is not surprising to see more and more Sauvignon Blancs from Chile joined by a few from Argentina, Australia and South Africa being positioned as less expensive and more appealing than under $20 Chardonnays and more flavorful than most supermarket Pinot Grigio.

While I do prefer widely available Sauvignon Blancs over the mass produced Chardonnays and sweet tinged supermarket Pinot Grigios, the most exciting trend is based upon a new style that emphasizes cool climate, site specific Sauvignon Blanc with some degree of what’s called “minerality.”

“Minerality”  is now widely used and  of course overdone, but it is definitely behind the new style of Sauvignon Blanc. Maybe it is just a cool word to use instead of smokey and flinty. That reminds me that Sauvignon Blanc was revived in California decades ago by going with the alternate name of Fume Blanc. But whatever is behind it, this new move toward a distinctive style, neither Kiwi nor Sancerre, is exciting. And the winemakers involved here on the West Coast are creative, risk takers willing to explore. 

The following reviews which have been posted at winereviewonline.com  best convey what I see as happening:

Cadre Wines Edna Valley, San Luis Obispo, “Stone Blossom” Sauvignon Blanc 2021 $22

With most of the fruit harvested from a Paragon Vineyard block planted in 1973, the wine was stainless fermented and aged on the lees. Once poured, this wine changes dramatically in the glass. It changes from flinty and green pea aroma and opens us to reveal secondary aromas of melon and white peach along with a wet stone kind of minerality. It offers plenty of vibrant flavors with mouth-coating texture, and it picks up lovely herbal and chalky nuances before finishing on a long, long crisp aftertaste.

Iterum Wines  ‘Old Friend’ Oak Grove Vineyard, Willamette Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2021 $50

Veteran winemaker Joe Dobbes is focusing on small lot wines from special vineyards under the new Iterum label. This inaugural Sauvignon Blanc is from an old vineyard Dobbes has worked with since 1989. The wine is effusively aromatic and very much in line with top quality Sancerre. It combines chalky, wet stone aromas with lime, grapefruit and fresh cut green apple. But then it performs amazingly on the palate with a rich smooth texture and multi-layered flavors. In the finish it turns on the crisp acidity, lime and lemon peel notes that linger. Beautiful, long aftertaste. Technical details explain it did not undergo M-L, and was fermented 50% in stainless and 50% in Acacia barrels.  It was then aged 7 months before bottling.

Padigan, Rogue Valley (Oregon) Sauvignon Blanc 2023 ($27)

 Sauvignon Blanc from Oregon has been getting lots of media attention recently.  Several wineries in Southern Oregon are key players, including Padigan. This 2023 is its 8th vintage and the 2023 growing season enabled Sauvignon to achieve full ripeness at a relatively low 22.5 brix.  After the wild yeast fermentation, half of the wine was aged “sur lies” for 6 months in neutral oak.  Bright, yellow-green in the glass, the wine quickly showcases lime, melon and flinty aromatics and the flavors add a layer of  juicy ripe mango for added depth. The texture is rich and supple and the finish emphasizes ripe fruit and that flinty nuance.  Probably best to enjoy within the next couple of years.  From the winery estate vineyard.  227 cases produced.   

Matzinger Davies Winery, Columbia Gorge (Oregon) Sauvignon Blanc “Gorgeous-Savvy” 2021 ($25):  Once commonplace, “flinty” is rarely used these days to describe Sauvignon Blanc, but this wine reminded me that flinty can be an accurate descriptor for distinct versions.  This version is made by veteran winemakers who seek out special vineyards.  Anna Matzinger, now a consultant, served as winemaker and general manager for Archery Summit for 14 vintages.  Michael Davies made wines for Rex Hill and A to Z wineries. This Sauvignon is from the Garnier Vineyard on the southern bank of the Columbia River.  Winemaking notes include fermenting and aging in a combination of concrete egg, stainless steel, and cigar-shaped oak barrels.  After primary fermentation, the wine was aged 6 months on light lees.  Light in color, the nose of this wine is seriously flinty and herbaceous.  Medium bodied, it offers flavors of mostly grassy fruit with a leesy texture.  Brisk in the finish with hints of flint and minerality.       

Verdad Wines, Ballard Canyon (Santa Barbara County, California) Sauvignon Blanc Rusack Vineyard 2023 ($35): This is the inaugural Sauvignon Blanc from Louisa Sawyer who sourced the fruit from the Rusack Vineyard which meets her requirements for being certified organic and for an ability to retain good natural acidity.  The Sauvignon vines are also 20 years old.  She fermented the juice entirely in stainless steel to allow the site to shine through.  The aroma is vibrant, with lots of melon fruit along with figs and flinty-chalky hints.  Medium bodied with similar melon flavors, it has a pleasant roundness in the middle palate before the acidity kicks in to bring it to a crisp finish.       

Never heard of Cadre, Iterum, Matzinger Davies, Verdad or Padigan? Well hold on, the parade of new names is just forming.  

Many of these new faces are making these daringly different Sauvignon Blancs from lesser known places such as Edna Valley and Rogue Valley. Add to that regions best known for other wines, specifically Oregon’s Willamette Valley and Santa Barbara and there’s much more awaiting us.

In my next post, we’ll look deeper at this new style of Sauvignon Blanc coming from Oregon.

From there we will move to the Central Coast and focus on the key players and the special vineyards they are working with.

Going Rogue, Part 2: The People Behind the Label

Why would any normal person start a winery these days? Well, let’s go rogue and find out.

Oregon just nudged ahead of Washington State and is now home to over 1,000 wineries, second only to California. The last I heard California  had over 4000 wineries. New wineries are opening up each week and the Rogue Valley is attracting more than its fair share of newbies.

But why now?

The oft quoted reason is “the pursuit of a dream and the lifestyle.”  That was voiced during the boom decades of the 70s and 80s in California and still reverberates in this decade along the entire West Coast.  

Who are these wine dreamers? In the US, unlike in traditional wine countries, most winery start-up founders are career changers (doctors, lawyers, high-tech) but a few are from a farming background and a few are out and out science nerds. Yes, there are wineries started by celebrities of some kind with too much money and too big of an ego. And then there’s the epiphany story. 

When you peek behind the label to see who the owners are among the rising stars, you once again encounter the Rogue Valley’s diversity. 

Goldback Wines: Watch out for Lightning

Speaking of an epiphany, Goldback is a good place to start our second tour of the Rogue Valley. Named after a fern indigenous to Southern Oregon, this authentic, small lot artisan winery was launched in 2016 by winemaker/owner Andy Meyer. He caught the wine bug as a college student looking for a summer job.  “I answered a craigslist ad for a tasting room job for the summer, which just happened to be for Cristom Vineyards.  Within 15 minutes of driving up the driveway for the interview, a lightning bolt struck. I knew that working in wine was what I wanted to do for the rest of my life.”

 After the lightning strike his resume expanded to include working harvests at William Selyem and Hirsch Vineyards in Sonoma, Felton Road in New Zealand, Mark Ryan in Washington, and Cape Mentelle in South Africa. From these experiences as well as his time as a restaurant wine director, he favors a minimalist approach to winemaking and aims to preserve natural acidity in whites and tannin integration in his reds. 

As for his own wines, the red Cuvee is the winery’s version of a Cotes du Rhone, drink now red. A blend of  58% Syrah and 42% Grenache, it offers plenty of bright raspberry fruit in its aroma and has a pleasing soft entry to deliver berry and cherry flavors.

Goldback’s Syrah is a blockbuster that showcases Syrah’s full throttle concentration and purity and is all about the grape and the site.  In recent vintages, Meyer sought out the nearby Meadowlark Vineyard with its granite soils and sustainable farming. But the site is also very windy which forces the vines to shut down frequently and contribute to a long growing season. Similar, says Meyer, to the effect of the Mistral in the Rhone. The resulting wine is dark purple and loaded with ripe plum and a floral, wild thyme character. Medium full, it is concentrated with dense, ripe black fruit flavors and some black pepper. Plush and seamless, it will benefit from a couple of years of bottle aging. But could age for a decade or more. 

From the oldest block of Grenache from the neighboring Jaxon Vineyard,Goldback’s  Grenache is a selection of the winemaker’s favorites. Those selected stood out for being “Pinot Noir-ish”and the wine is indeed not your typical Grenache. A long cold soak and a 22 day fermentation with some whole clusters, the wine was aged 18 months in neutral French oak. The nose offers up loads of vibrant, cherry, strawberry fruit that carry over into the smooth flavors. There’s a touch of earthiness in the nicely textured finish. In 2020, Goldback continued experimenting and bottled one barrel of Grenache that was 100% whole cluster, carbonic maceration.

Did I mention the remarkable Chenin Blanc? 

www.goldbackwines.com

Is There a Doctor in the Winery?

A beautiful hillside vineyard overlooking the Rogue Valley in Southern Oregon was planted by Dr. Peter William Adesman. Along with being a full-time practicing physician, he has been an avid wine collector and educator since the 1970s, and long dreamed of producing his own wines. He notes: ”In 2007, my wife, Dr. Robin Miller, and I moved to a property in the Rogue Valley where we could plant a 10-acre vineyard. That is how Peter William Vineyard was born. Our first commercial vintage was 2016.”

Peter, only call him “Doctor” if you are his patient, is dynamic, enthusiastic and has an encyclopedic wine knowledge based on tasting and traveling. For his winery,  Syrah is offered in several styles. Of the 4 Syrahs made by this winery in 2018, one labeled Candives is 100% Syrah made from the estate vineyard and aged entirely in French oak, 50% new. To distinguish it from the others, the winery went with the “Candives” name, said to be an alternate name for Syrah used in the tiny village of Chavanay in the Northern Rhone Valley. As fine as the other 2018s are, this is so dark, dense, and dramatic that the special name is certainly merited. Ultra smooth and seamless, it is beautiful now but will also bring rewards with cellaring. 94 points.

Another small batch Peter William Syrah is made from estate grown grapes which are vinified by winemaker Eric Weisinger who is the “W” referenced on the label. The end result is a compact, powerful expression of Syrah that may be one of the best values around these days. It is pure ripe Syrah beginning with its dark color and earthy, leathery, black pepper aromatics. 

Then there’s an exciting blend  from Peter William aptly named “Extravagance.” It may be going on elsewhere, but Southern Oregon sure seems to be a hotbed of creative winemaking energy leading to fascinating blends and unusual wines.  A 50-50 blend of Tempranillo and Syrah, Extravagance is aged for 21 months in French oak and bottled unfined and unfiltered. This intriguing blend turns out to be delicious red wine with both depth and charm. It comes across as ripe, plush Syrah built on a Tempranillo framework.

Check out the club possibilities at

www.peterwilliamvineyard.com

Padigan

3rd Generation Grower/Farmer

In 2023, the 2-Hawk Winery was rebranded Padigan, the name taken from a soil type. This 24 acre vineyard is owned by Ross Allen, a third generation farmer from the San Joaquin Valley. 

Both before and after the name change, Malbec was a major success along with the winery’s Syrah and Viognier. With the release of its 2019 wines, the winery began hitting full stride. 2019 was an exceptionally long, coolish growing season, and  the winery’s estate grown Malbec was not harvested until mid to late October.  The juice was wild yeast fermented, blended with 10% Cabernet Sauvignon and aged for 28 months in oak. 21% new, 61% neutral. Intensely dark, this Malbec is concentrated and needs some aeration to strut its stuff  Overall, an exciting, multi-layered Malbec.

Then there’s Padigan’s Viognier. It takes a grower who knows every vine on the estate to know the best time to harvest Viognier. Ross works closely with winemaker Kiley Evans who explains:

“The trick with Viognier is getting it ripe beyond the bitter almond finish that can be a nuisance in the wine, but not so ripe that it is overly alcoholic/hot and I’ve seen that progression happen in as little as 2-3 days.”

Padigan’s 2021 is a lovely expression of Viognier. Big and round on the palate, it remains lively with good citrus fruit along with crunchy melon flavors. The texture is heavenly and the wine brings it home with a long lasting finish with a subtle zing to it. This could serve as a benchmark Viognier that’s neither over the top in ripeness and alcohol nor one that relies on oak. Native yeast fermented, It was aged sur lies for 11 months in 35% new French oak and later rested on  the lees in stainless for 6 months. It seems likely to become even more complex with aging for 3 to 5 years

http://www.padigan.com 

Dancin Vineyards: Viticulture Students

DAN and CINdy Marka met while studying viticulture at UC Davis. To them, wine is all about sites, clones, soils and aspect. Both must have been super students because their vineyard is beautiful and impeccably maintained. 

Dancin is also one of a handful of Rogue Valley wineries making a Pinot Noir, but Dan Marka explains,

“ Our site was created for Pinot Noir and Chardonnay with its north, northeast facing aspect, 1800 foot average elevation and shade occurring beginning at 5:45pm (depending on the Block) throughout the growing season. We are finding that we can produce delicious Pinot Noir with great flavors and balance at alcohol levels in the mid to upper 12’s to the very low 13’s. Our wide diurnal swings allow for flavors and ripeness to occur during the day with acids retained during the overnight hours. We can see daytime highs to overnight lows vary by 40 degrees!” 

And he adds that the same Pinot Noir clones ripen later at his site than they do in McMinnville or Dundee.

As a specialist, Dancin is an exception where it is more common to grow a dozen or more varieties within an estate. But, digging a little deeper, you discover the winery’s roster offers lots of exciting choices.  Dancin makes 4 distinct Chardonnays, 4 Pinots from different blocks or different clones. It also makes Syrah, Sangiovese and Barbera. If you enjoy Barbera, Dancin’s won’t disappoint.

www.dancin.com

Weisinger Family Winery: 2nd generation wine grower

Tempranillo Estate, Rogue Valley

The Weisinger Family, on the eastern edge in Ashland is said to specialize in Tempranillo along with, Rhone and Bordeaux varietals.. Quite diverse for a 3,000 case annual output.

Acreage planted to Tempranillo has steadily increased in Southern Oregon over the last decade. Located just outside of Ashland, Weisinger was founded in 1988, making it one of the oldest in Southern Oregon. After assuming the winemaker’s role, Eric Weisinger began grafting over the original Gewurztraminer vines to Tempranillo. Adjacent to the winery, the Tempranillo occupies a steep, high elevation (2235 feet) northeast facing site. The Weisinger Family, on the eastern edge in Ashland is said to specialize in Tempranillo, Pinot Noir, Rhone and Bordeaux varietals, as well as proprietary blends. Quite diverse for a 3,000 case annual output.

My first experience with Weisinger was with the wines from 2018. 2018 was an ideal long, slow growing season with the Tempranillo picked in the first week of October. After being cold soaked and fermented for 20 days by native yeasts, the wine was barrel aged for 17 months in 30% new American oak. It offers lovely bright cherry fruit with hints of black tea and spice in a solid, medium weight package. The black cherry and spice theme continues in the deep flavors with subtle oak toast and firm, integrated tannins coming into play.  Beautifully structured and focused throughout, it should drink well over the next 5-7  years. Not surprisingly,  Weisinger’s Tempranillos have won many awards. I’ve scored them 93 and 94 in two recent vintages.

Weisinger Family Winery Roussanne, Fortmiller Vineyard, Rogue Valley, Oregon, 2019 

Normally part of a Rhone blend, Roussanne as a stand alone varietal is one that seems to challenge winemakers. After experimenting earlier with Roussanne, in 2018 Weisinger resumed its efforts after discovering the north-facing Fortmiller Vineyard in 2018. In 2019, Weisinger harvested the Roussanne at a low 22.4 Brix to preserve acidity and after whole cluster pressing the winery barrel fermented the wine using native and commercial yeasts. The lees were stirred throughout the long fermentation. The result is a wine that showcases floral and lemony aromas, and the flavors are bright with citrus and honeysuckle notes. The leesy texture adds complexity and length to this delicate, lively and pretty wine.

http://www.weisingers.com

Belle Fiore Winery: Scientists

Belle Fiore is the closest thing to a Napa-ish winery with its rather elaborate tasting room and chateau-like facility. It has a busy restaurant and is even a mini art gallery. But it is also serious about its wines made from its 31 acre estate vineyard surrounding the winery. The roster consists of the usual varieties  such as Merlot and Syrah but then you get to the “others,” especially the Italians. Here you’ll find a Montepulciano (my fav), a Barbera, Teroldego, Fiano,  and a rare Caprettone grape.  These are all possible because the owners have identified what they call “16 micro-blocks” based upon soil types and elevation.  Owner Edward Kerwin is a clinical research scientist and his wife Karen has an M.A in genetic counseling. Together they launched Belle Fiore in 2007. 

Long Walk Vineyard: A Dream Retreat from Silicon Valley

Located in the hills above Ashland, Long Walk is a newly developed vineyard and historic 35 acre orchard owned by Kathy and Tom O’Leary, Silicon Valley techies. After a prolonged search, they settled on this cool, south facing site to pursue their dream to make Rhone inspired wines. The 11-acre vineyard is planted primarily to Rhone varieties.  But they also like Zinfandel so there’s a smattering of Zin. “Field Notes” is  their version of a GSM Rhone blend. Made from 40% Grenache, 30% Mourvedre, 10% Syrah and a splash of Carignane, it is medium dark in color and unfolds quickly in the glass. The nose starts out with pretty plum fruit along with a hint of leather and game but the bright black fruit character prevails. The flavors add some herbs and cherry and are presented in a round body with gentle, dusty tannins poking through. Pleasantly subtle and charming overall, it is one to enjoy over the next several years. Kudos for the light touch. 

With Rose wines being so trendy and Roses now being made from just about every red grape available,  it was an eye opener to encounter Long Walk’s rose from a red grape that’s ideal for a Rose: Cinsault. Popular in Southern France, Cinsault is light in color and low in tannin and  remains the backbone for many Provence Roses. From vines planted in 2002, this winery’s Rose is an attractive pink-copper color and offers an aromatic mix of  just picked strawberries, rose petals and summer flowers.  Medium bodied and vibrant, it is balanced and has just enough acidity to bring it to a delicate finish. 

As for the Long Walk Zinfandel, it too is impressive. 

www.longwalkvineyard.com

Talent Cellars “Nuf Said Red” 

This new family run winery is based in the small town of Talent, near Medford. The label is a replica used by the family when the land was a pear orchard. Winemaker Matt Newbry and his wife Janéa, attribute the Inspiration Behind Talent Cellars to the very soil their family has been farming In Talent, Oregon since the 1920’s.

Sourced from two nearby vineyards, the 2017 Nuf Said is a blend of 75% Cabernet Sauvignon with 13% Petit Verdot and 12% Grenache. It was aged 22 months in French and American oak (50% new). It is medium bodied and vibrant with bright berry fruit and graphite and cedar in the aroma, yet it sweeps across the palate with juicy, ripe fruit and a hint of vanilla from the oak.  Beautifully balanced, it finishes with light, ultra smooth tannins. Production was 250 cases.

And with that, I too say “nuf said.”

Exploring Guadalupe ValleyWines

5 Takeaways from Guadalupe Valley 

Throughout 2023, numerous stories appeared in national media outlets announcing Mexico’s Guadalupe Valley as “the next Napa Valley.” Or Guadalupe as “Mexico’s Napa Valley.”

In one of those annual reader survey pieces, it finished a close second to Walla Walla. 

Travel articles with a romantic getaway theme or wine country destination focus were common.  A google search for Guadalupe Valley wines will show dozens of travel suggestions, tours tips, tour packages, tour guides and itineraries featuring wineries and culinary recommendations. 

 Located about 60 miles south of the US border, or just over an hour’s drive from San Diego, Guadalupe’s wine route has come alive with new wineries, new resorts, boutique hotels, and trendy restaurants. Wine-related income in Guadalupe Valley hovers around $200 million a year.

No longer flying under the radar, Guadalupe Valley secured international recognition in late 2022 by hosting the 43rd annual World congress of vines. Many of its wines win awards and medals in various annual wine competitions. With only 25 wineries existing before 2005, Guadalupe is now home to 150+ wineries, 100 restaurants, 92 hotels and boutiques, and 12 taco stands. A few sources now say there are over 180 wineries. 

Regarding viticulture, Guadalupe Valley is a real anomaly. Standard logic in all textbooks maintains that wine grapes should only be grown within the 30 to 50 latitude. Guadalupe is located at the 21-22 degree latitude and there are over 10,000 acres planted to a wide range of vinifera varieties. 

Defying logic, the mantra in Guadalupe is that it is all about altitude, not latitude. Located at elevations from 500 to 2000 feet above sea level, most vineyards benefit from cooling breezes from the Pacific on one side and the Sea of Cortez on the other. With wide diurnal swings during the summertime, the climate is basically Mediterranean. Or “best described as Mediterranean” as one winemaker explained because being dry and desert-like, it doesn’t fit into any neat category. 

So after postponing a planned visit due to covid, I finally visited this much talked about wine valley in Northern Baja. Research before the visit entailed reading many of the feature stories and, of course, tasting as many Guadalupe wines that were available during my stay in Cabo San Lucas.

My vinous version of the Baja 1000 began by departing the totally screwed up city of Tijuana in a crappy rental car that barely made it out of town. Later in the day we were welcomed to Guadalupe by rain that challenged the car’s wipers. That’s right, rain in Guadalupe Valley is about as common as rain in the Sahara.

That rain was a great omen or set up for a series of unexpected experiences that followed when visiting wineries, tasting wines, and getting a feel for this most unusual wine region. The rain made the sandy roads to the wineries even more challenging to navigate with deep potholes filled with water along with rocks and a few chickens. But holding on tight to the wheel we visited the region. What follows are takeaways from five wineries that capture the uniqueness of Guadalupe as not only an emerging wine destination but also an exciting wine producing region.  

“This can’t be Nebbiolo,” I tactfully mentioned to the Vinedos Malagon hostess. It was deep garnet, concentrated, with ripe flavors and some tannin. She brought over the bottle and yes it was Nebbiolo. I shouldn’t have been so surprised since the previous wine was Malagon’s Grenache, also unusually rich. She explains that the winery has access to Grenache planted by Russian immigrants in the 1940s. That’s right, the vines are at least 70 years old. And as for Nebbiolo, it was said to be brought into Guadalupe long ago but identity tags were never found to verify its DNA. Well, that was my first visit.

#1 Takeaway: Prepare for Guadalupe wines that aren’t typical and for wines made from odd, old varieties, old vines.

Malagon was founded in 1997 when only a dozen wineries were operating in Guadalupe and very few wine varieties besides Grenache and Nebbiolo were planted. Pedro Domecq opened a winery in 1972 but like many of the distillers who arrived earlier, it favored Palomino and Colombard in the early years. Also in the 1970s Jim Concannon and others from California visited and introduced then popular varieties such as Chenin Blanc, Petite Sirah, Zinfandel, Barbera, Cabernet, Carignane, and the once popular Ruby Cabernet. The latter variety is a key component in Domecq’s XA red and Petite Sirah is one of Cetto’s most popular and attractive wines. 

Today the Valley’s wineries reflect a balance of an international cast of characters and local families. Those established varieties attracted foreign investors such as the Henri Lurton Medoc family. It seems telling that Bodegas Henri Lurton’s flagship wines from Guadalupe are Nebbiolo and Chenin Blanc. 

Next stop was Casa Magoni whose wines I had enjoyed prior to the visit. In the new tasting room, white wines were first offered and they were not the typical blends. Magoni poured a Chardonnay and Fiano blend named “Manaz.” Also, another white brings together Chardonnay and Vermentino which is just as impressive. Among the reds, the Sangiovese-Cabernet is excellent, but the most unusual tasted was labeled Origen 43 which combines Montepulciano, Aglianico, Canaiolo, Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon. All those varieties were established 16 years ago. But, of course, Magoni makes a Nebbiolo which is excellent.

Turns out that Camillo Magoni, who studied Enology and Viticulture degree from the Enologica a Di Alba in Piedmont, Italy was invited by the Cetto winery to work in the cellars. After 40 years he left to establish Casa Magoni where he introduced many Italian varieties as well as others from France. Today with more than 100 different grape varieties on 278 hectares, this is the largest experimental vineyard in Guadalupe and all of Mexico. 

#2 Takeaway

Today with over 100 wine varieties being grown, some of Guadalupe’s finest wines are rare combinations and unique blends. There’s the Red from SantoTomas that is made from 34% Mission, 33% Tempranillo, and 33% Carignan. I love Emerve’s “Isabella” which brings together Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Viognier in a bright, full bodied style. El Cielo’s 2020 Blanc de Blancs consists of Sauvignon Blanc and Chenin Blanc with a good dose of Palomino and Chardonnay. 

So be prepared to encounter wines with fanciful proprietary names derived from the planets, the stars, children, family pets, nicknames, whatever. 

Moving on, I finally visited a new winery unknown to me but one I drove by several times: Emerve.

Many of the new wineries are locally owned and started by home winemakers or by cellar workers moving on after apprenticing at one of the big wineries. That door opened In 2004-2005 when Hugo D’Acosta who studied at Montpellier, France, and the Agrarian University of Turin, Italy, organized La Escuelita, a school teaching local farmers and families the fundamentals of winemaking and cellar procedures. The school also functions today as a cooperative, providing the necessary equipment to growers and future winemakers to make wine. 

Today, Emerve, which was one of those wineries,  draws from 18 ha and produces around 5,000 cases a year. In addition to a lovely Rose of Cabernet, Emerve is best known for its proprietary blends. “Isabella” brings together Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Viognier mentioned earlier. There’s a red Bordeaux named “Los Nietos” and another red blend, “Armonia de Tintos,” a blend of Merlot, Cabernet, Syrah and Cabernet Franc. That cuvee was aged for 8 months in a combination of French and Hungarian oak.  It is much more than a simple red. And just for a little variation there’s a 100% Shiraz that’s bottle aged for 5 years before its release.

#3 Takeaway

While the top 3 wineries of Cetto, Santo Thomas, and Bodegas Pedro Domecq produce 80% of wines from Guadalupe Valley, there are 100 or more small family owned businesses offering a wide variety of high quality wines. And the wines are often unique.

Next up in my learning journey, Casta de Vinos

Whether it was sheer luck or fate, my visit to Casta was truly eye opening. Opened in 2010, Casta is an authentic mom & Pop family winery with Sergio Castañeda as owner/winemaker and Claudia, his wife, as director. With an annual output of 4,500 cases, Casta makes 12 wines, 10 red. The 2018 “Domina,” a 100% Merlot exudes charm in an elegant style, and the 2019 “Cirio,” a Cabernet Sauvignon and Mourvedre blend is big with multi- layered flavors. “Casta Tinta, “ a Bordeaux blend, could easily be mistaken for a young Medoc. Another amazing accomplishment, the 2020 Syrah is heavenly and stylishly refined for a young Syrah. I also liked the Petit Verdot. Clearly, the winemaking is top notch and shows a subtle use of small oak and tannin management that makes this one a genuine superstar.

#4 Takeaway

Not only are there many new wineries, Guadalupe is a paradise for anyone who loves to explore and discover previously unknown wineries. Or one that opened the week earlier.

Tuscany also has a strong foothold here thanks to the Paoloni family.  Born in Tuscany, Paolo Paoloni left his post as an Enologist at the Perugia University to manage the Valle Redondo wine company in Aguascalientes, Mexico. After several years with Valle Redondo, Paoloni purchased 38 hectares in the Toros Pintos section of the Valle de Guadalupe. 

If anyone doubts the uniqueness of Guadalupe, well the wines that were presented at the Paoloni/Villa Montefiori winery will erase all doubts.  First came the dramatic 2020 “Ross del Valle” made from 100% Montepulciano with amazing concentration. It is the first mono-Montepulciano from Mexico. Even more exciting was the 2019 Nebbiolo, a dark colored, deeply flavored version, aged for 15 months in French oak. Then the house speciality is Nero d’Avola, and the 2018 aged 12 months in oak is stunning for its depth and layers of flavors.

#5 Takeaway

Located on a steep hillside, Paoloni’s vineyards look beautifully maintained, indicating that grape growing here is as good as anywhere. Overall, the yields work out to be slim by Napa’s standards, estimated as between 1.2 to 2 tons per acre. With little water available, irrigation is not excessive with many vines being dry farmed.

 I heard during my visit  and have also read that farming practices are moving toward sustainability and organic methods.  Carrodilla is said to be the first certified organic and biodynamic vineyard in Mexico. More recently, Santos Brujos which makes a lovely Tempranillo has earned its stars as a certified biodynamic vineyard. 

So, I’ll stop here after noting that despite what you may be thinking, Guadalupe Valley wines are showing up in more and more US markets. That was reinforced a few weeks ago when looking over the shelves of Desert Wine, a small retailer in Palm Desert, there were several Paoloni wines and a few others.  

Thankfully, in 2024 you might not have to travel along those bad dirt roads to explore Guadalupe Valley wines. Check out  the list of wineries available and which states they are sold in at La Competencia Imports in Napa, Same goes for Tozi Imports on the East Coast, Nossa Imports in Arizona and Beso imports in Washington. LMA imports in San Diego specializes in wholesale to restaurants. 

And one more thing about those rough, unpaved roads: don’t expect any improvements soon. Arguing that bad roads attract good tourists and good roads will appeal to the loud, rude, sloppy wine drinkers who will ruin the character of the Valley, a powerful resistance group has been organized to control growth.

In other words, they don’t want Guadalupe to become the “next Napa Valley,”