“The Ambassador of terroir” is how Kermit Lynch introduced a selection of Grenache-based French wines. Kermit Lynch, one of the most respected wine importing companies, then added: “Grenache yields an astounding range of experiences, from dense and soulful to bright and ethereal.” Leave it to Kermit and his crew to come up with such a brilliant description.
“Grenache is the new Pinot Noir” was the best I could come up with a few months back. As someone who came to wine during the sticky sweet Grenache Rose heyday, my admiration for Grenache had to overcome a few bad experiences. But now I’m a big fan.
A new Grenache just recently encountered offered yet another reason to appreciate Grenache: it is a red wine that can be chilled and enjoyed without compromises:.
“Alouette” is the name of this Grenache made by Tablas Creek Vineyards. The back label says it is “intended for early drinking, ideally served chilled.” The name “Alouette” was chosen for this wine because it conveys a sense of fun.
Suggesting chilling a red wine is not totally unprecedented, but the wine usually mentioned is a Beaujolais, especially Beaujolais Nouveau. And today, there are low alcohol, pet nat or other light wines like the latest “Blouge”arriving on the scene trying to capture a new wine market. But the difference is that Alouette is a solid wine with normal alcohol (over 13%), has authentic Grenache character and has an affinity for food.
So listen up you wine snobs with your vintage charts who talk down to anyone putting an ice cube in a glass of red or keeping the bottle in the fridge. You may have something to do with the lack of interest the young generation has for wine.Too many rules and rituals when what is needed is for many to chill out so to speak.
Tablas Creek Vineyards has scored so many “firsts” since it arrived in Paso Robles that it wasn’t a total surprise to see it break the ice (sorry about that pun) on chilling red wines. Afterall, under the direction of Jason Hass, Tablas Creek has made a single varietal wine from each of the permitted varieties allowed in Chateauneuf-du-Pape. I’ve been lucky to have tasted many of them and am now a fan of Bourboulenc, Clairette Blanche, Terret Noir…and, sorry, I wandered off course.
Back to Alouette the wine. Being quite vigorous, Grenache yields a big crop in some years. 2024 was one of those vintages and as Jason explains: “We decided to make two wines: our traditional varietal bottling of Grenache, from the more classic, structured, deeper lots, and a new wine from the highest-toned, palest, and juiciest lots that we’re calling Alouette.”
The year before the winery offered the wine in boxes and kegs. But as Jason explained, the feedback they got was that the wine needed to be in bottles. And so the 2024 Alouette is presented in a clear bottle which leaves no doubt it is a red wine. Jason concludes,”This year we’re expanding it to national scale and reducing the price to $30 SRP so it can be a viable wine by the glass candidate for restaurants (at $35 it was just a little too expensive).”
My note for the 2024 Alouette is that it is a medium red in color, and the aroma is very assertive with cranberry and strawberry to it along with a hint of licorice. Feels smooth on the palate with balancing acidity and flavors that fan out featuring cranberry. Pleasing bright fruit in the finish with no hint of tannin, oak, or alcohol coming through when served chilled.
Overall, it is different yet attractive and seems like a perfect wine by the glass candidate.
Perhaps Kermit Lynch’s “bright and ethereal” is a little too poetic, but “Alouette” by Tablas Creek is a refreshing new take on Grenache. And a tasty, chillable red!
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