Clueless No Longer

 

Wine Sleuthing 2.0

2020 has quickly provided a great, unexpected surprise. No, I’m not going political on you. This discovery relates to the online wine world.

The clues were there but I just kept getting sidetracked by the silly name and seemingly casual attitude. 

 Then this week with the offer of a fabulous Châteauneuf-du-Pape and special Zinfandel,  it was impossible yto ignore the clues.

Winespies, a wine merchant that I’ve been hesitant to write about,  has totally won me over with its exciting daily specials throughout January.

It meets and often now exceeds my 5 basic criteria:  

  1. Sourcing under the radar, first rate wines from non-corporate wineries

    2. Discounting in the 25-50% range, closer to 50%

   3. Providing informative background material about the wine and people

   4. Avoiding over-hyped, point scores and fake reviews

   5. Offering good free shipping options with temperature control

The standout wines in January that helped make me a new fan are an Oakville Cabernet, Napa Valley Merlot, Anderson Valley Pinot Noir, Brut Premier Cru Champagne and a knockout Zinfandel blend from the Sierra Foothills.

For more detail about http://www.winespies.com go to: www.robywine.com

 

5 Best Somm Sites & Free Wine Education

Somms have come a long way since my years as a wine teacher. The new breed study hard and pass rigorous exams. Whether full on MS scholars or those having attained certain WSET levels, they have soaked up tons of information about the many facets of wine.

Knowing a subject inside and out is essential as a starting point but it does not make one a good or excellent teacher.

 How to organize and convey information is what sets good teachers apart from the bad and the boring.  Motivating students to continue learning after the class is another key.

That holds true for everyone imparting information on every subject.

Somms and MWs are no exception. 

Focusing on free stuff on the internet is like returning to the Wine Library at UC Davis  Or for me, the Healdsburg Library where I spent many hours.

Oh well, enough nostalgia. I’ve recently been following Somms and a few MWs online. I’ve read numerous background articles, wine reviews, and have viewed too many videos and Podcasts featuring Somms. Yes, I’ve seen the movies as well. 

Regarding wine podcasts, I checked out many, including  “Drunk Bitches” and “Wine to Five.” Neither made my list.

As of now based on the latest, five websites backed by Somms lead the field in free online wine education. All 5 should be approached as team teachers, since each brings a special area of expertise and strength to the immense subject.

In other words, no one stands alone in my mind as “the” wine educator. There is no Kevin Zraly among today’s SOMMS.

But here are the 5, each bringing something powerful and rewarding to wine education:

www.winefolly.com 

Begin here: Best on how to taste and talk about wines.

Madeline Puckette, a certified Somm and member of the Guild of Sommeliers is the outfront personality. She and her partners stated Wine Folly in 2011. As she explains, “The goal of Wine Folly is to share wine knowledge in a way to encourage and inspire new drinkers. “

And she does that. She is not, thankfully, talking to wannabe sommeliers, and she focuses on making wine tasting enjoyable.

 Often relying on blind tasting wines side by side, she brings tremendous enthusiasm to the subject. She is basically teaching viewers how to taste and identify wines, and manages to make it lively, if not exactly entertaining. Other than having the credentials, she comes across, and this seems important to me, as a normal person, not a twit or nerd.

I liked her tasting of 3 under $20 Cabernets purchased at a supermarket. It immediately breaks the association of price and quality so common among new wine lovers. As the wines are evaluated, she tends to focus a lot on the appearance, not just color but the overall appearance. Love her use of the wine aroma wheel!

www.guildsomm.com

Second step: Know your grapes and wine regions.

GuildSomm is “a nonprofit international membership organization for sommeliers and wine professionals that promotes education, collaboration, and healthy debate while maintaining the key values of the sommelier profession: integrity, humility, and hospitality. We’re here to help you expand your knowledge of the wine world.”

MS Geoff Kruth launched the GuildSomm website in 2009, joining his career in wine with his early background in technology. He manages the organization, hosts the GuildSomm podcast, develops content, and leads masterclasses. Feature articles, podcasts, and videos are publicly available and cover varied topics on the world of wine. 

The only drawback with guildsomm is information overload. Some articles go too far in depth and and seem to be factoid upon factoid. We have all had teachers who don’t know how to pace a lecture and keep the student’s interest.  

So, for example,  when reading the article on Merlot which is crammed full of information, I suggest you step away from the screen every so often.

But, that aside, there a wealth of information available here and it is accurate and up to date.

www.sommselect.com

Best for Buying and Enjoying Wines

Although this is an e-commerce, wine club site, the head sommeliers, Ian Cauble and David Lynch share many fantastic, personal insights about wines, wine styles, regions, and the people behind the wines.  

For Italian wines, Lynch is the man. For Burgundy, Cauble is hard to beat. For Pinot Noir, he recently wrote: Let’s not forget that Germany has nearly the same deep history with the grape as Burgundy, and that Germany ranks third in the world (behind France and the US) in total Pinot Noir planting.

For a fresh perspective on lesser grapes, you hear this from him: “Be it Tuscan, Ligurian, Sardinian, or Corsican, Vermentino is a distinctively ‘Mediterranean’ grape we all need to get to know better.” 

www.napawineacademy.com

Best for reminding everyone that wine is about people. Real people.

This online site focuses on classes for students of various interests and levels. You can enroll in these classes and attend at several locations in addition to Napa. Or you can enroll online.

The catch is that these classes are offered on a fee basis, meaning you pay. Yes, this is serious and the major part of the program consists of classes for different WSET levels.

The Wine 101 Foundation course is widely appealing and the fee is $125. That’s a bargain for the price.

But why I include these folks here is that there are free podcasts, audio only. But they are wonderful interviews with wine people, winemakers, winery owners, 

and marketing types. About an hour long, the Cathy Corison audio is wonderful and typical of the others offered.  You can also read the blogs, basically well-researched timely articles on grape varieties, regions, and events.

www.vinosity.com

This site wraps it all up nicely.

The wine world is immense, but wine is all about people and places as well as wine. At vinosity, over two dozen writers report from regions around the world.

The trick here is to be alert and sign up for a two week free trial. Then immerse yourself in articles from writers around the world. Several authors are MWs.

This is Steven Spurrier’s new pet project to revive wine journalism. He has two articles online that are brilliant, one on Okanagan wines and the other on the most recent San Francisco International wine competition.

South Africa’s leading expert, Michael Fridjhon, contributed a lively, insightful view of Stellenbosh. Don’t miss the conversation about Wachau, one of Austria’s amazing wine regions.

And, of course, the update on California Rhone wines goes off the charts.

So, to sum up:

Use these 5 websites offering free stuff to learn as much as you want to about wine. 

 Black Friday & Wine Affiliates 

Be an affiliate: No experience or expertise required. 

My last post introduced you to affiliates, behind the scenes bloggers/influencers making money.

These affiliate wine programs are not limited to a few small-time bloggers making a few bucks. The popular Wine of the Month Club has numerous, and, of course, everyone wants to have a link that leads to a commission from Amazon.

For example, Vinepair which I like and regularly follow tries to downplay it this way: 

  • “From time to time we work with various partners to highlight wine, beer, spirits and other products that we believe you, our readers, will be interested in learning about. When we link to Amazon and other 3rd parties with affiliate programs (and remember to tag those links) we earn a small commission.”

FYI: Amazon is said to pay a commission in the 1%-10% range, depending on the product. And should you check my review of Amazon’s wine selection at www.robywine.com, you’ll see the selection is vast.

 I recently clicked on a review of wine clubs published by CNET. Now we have definitely left the small world of wine bloggers, and CNET lays out an interesting background for why it, of all websites, is reviewing wine clubs:

“So which is the best wine of the month club or subscription for you, your budget and habits in 2019? If all of these choices seem overwhelming, we get it. It’s like being in wine country. That’s why we canvassed the wine club landscape to uncork the best memberships for you.” 

Setting aside the bizarre use of the word “canvassed,” if you read the fine print you are told: “CNET editors pick the products & services we write about. When you buy through our links, we may get a commission.”

The assumption is that wine and wine clubs are just another product worthy of review and compensation when reviewed favorably. One day you review fitness watches and hotspots, the next wines or wine clubs.

BUT NO. Not so fast. 

As CNET noted, 

“Wine can be “overwhelming.” 

Well, for most people, except for the editors of CNET who can canvass the landscape, wine is complicated and both knowledge of and personal experience with the subject are essential before passing judgment.

But this brings me to the main point: wine continues to intimidate people, unlike shoes, fitbits, appliances, and most other products and personalized services. 

Can’t recall how many people once hearing what I did as a profession would then apologise for some reason for not knowing much about wine.

When buying wine, people still need good, reliable, and unbiased advice. 

It is pretty obvious that most publications mentioned with affiliates are targeting the millennial audience.

Millennials are targeted because, among many reasons, they might subscribe to a wine club. 

One website focuses on financial advice for millennials also explored wine clubs and ended this way:

“You can trust the integrity of our balanced, independent financial advice. We may, however, receive compensation from the issuers of some products mentioned in this article.”

“Trust, “integrity,“”independent” and then maybe”compensation “?  

Wine to today’s bloggers and their colleagues is more lucrative than say shoes  and fitbits because it is meant to be consumed and replaced fairly often.

Wine can also be an expensive product, so affiliates can earn much more money through commissions.

And of all possible revenue sources, wine club subscriptions are the most attractive for obvious reasons, the main one being regular repeat sales. 

A commission is paid for the duration of the membership that originated in the blogger/affiliates review.

It is all about the money.

You can google “wine affiliates programs” and, yes. there are lists of the best ones for commissions and financial gain. 

You’ll also read that wine club subscriptions offer a great opportunity to make serious money.

Be an affiliate: No experience or expertise required. 

Looking for honest, non-affiliated reviews? Go to www.robywine.com

Sip & Swirl: Wine Influencers on Steroids

 

With holiday buying kicking off with Black Friday and continuing through Cyber Monday, if wine or anything related to wine is on your shopping list, you need to know about influencers and affiliates.

In the new world controlled by social media, bloggers need no credentials and can write whatever they want to. But thanks to this bullshit notion of influencers, the outer limits of truth and objectivity are being explored.

For centuries, wine lovers have cited the phrase, “in vino, veritas.” That means that after a little wine, the truth comes out. 

But now with a little wine in them, wine influencers are only out to obtain self- glorification, perks, and freebies. And the chance to make a few bucks.

So truth and objectivity are slipping away from the wine world. Posting a bottle photo on Instagram and exclaiming how great the wine is to one’s pod of followers is  only a minor infraction. But if you have hundreds of followers, it might keep the free samples coming your way.

I recently met a “wine influencer.” It (neutral pronoun) did the hand quotation marks when introducing itself. The occasion was a weekend wine event and the “influencer” was invited to enjoy free meals, wine tastings, and at least two nights accommodations.

The meeting confirmed my suspicion a self-proclaimed wine influencer is a sleazy, talentless, free-loader who should be exiled to the next Fyre Festival. (Transportation not included).

But the situation becomes serious as influencers morph into something known as “affiliates” and these people are now taking wine writing and reviewing one major step down the slippery slope. 

Much like influencer, the word “affiliate” is taking on a new definition.

While researching an article on wines for the holidays, I  encountered a list of 32 wines recommended for Thanksgiving on the Oprah website. 

That Oprah, the one person almost everyone still trusts for advice. 

I did think the number 32 was odd, but then digging deeper, things really got my attention. When clicking on more information for specific wines, I was connected to something called “Drizly,” an app set up for selling and delivering many of the wines recommended.

Drizly which operates in all major cities, sent me to e-commerce sites like www.wine.com and wineaccess.com or to the wine producer’s website when I clicked on a specific wine.

And then I read this in the fine print on the footer page:

“Do you and your readers enjoy sippin’ on an adult beverage from time to time? If so, we’ve got good news: The Drizly Affiliate Program makes it easy to earn some extra cash through your website, blog or e-newsletter. Cash that could be used for, well, more of those adult beverages we all love. (You could also use it for other things…we guess.)

The nitty-gritty: You can earn up to 8% commission on all sales that are referred to Drizly from a tracked link placed on your site. You’re paid the first time a customer visits to make a purchase, PLUS any subsequent tracked purchases that customer makes for up to 30 days. Average orders are over $70, so those commissions can add up quick. Which means you’ll be ordering the fancy drinks for next weekend.”

As a consumer, Drizly sounds kind of cool to me. Sort of the Doordash for booze.

 But Affiliates? Commissions? Money? 

Then when reviewing www.winc.com for another post published last week, I ran into this on its home page:

 Are you an affiliate looking to run the Winc Affiliate Program? Join now!

This also got my attention and eventually helped me understand why winc is so highly rated in reviews of subscription type wine clubs.

 A reviewer, aka an affiliate, any writer or influencer can enjoy the following perks: 

  • Earn up to $18 commission for every new subscription
  • 10% revenue share on gift card, gift box, and shop purchases
  • Variety of updated creative

Special coupons and seasonal promotional opportunities

  • Performance and bonus incentives for our partners
  • Opportunity to try Winc on the house!

Well, it seems this is the norm today, linking what appears to be advice to a seller like Drizly or winc for commissions. This goes way beyond the “refer a friend and get $20 off your next order.”

But just to be sure, I checked out other subscription wine clubs only to find some like the Cellars wine club that make even more lucrative proposals for affiliates:

  • 15% commission, no joining cost.
  • High average order of $192: That’s an average $28.80 commission on every order!
  • Lengthy 120-day cookie: As long as one customer signs up for one of our clubs within 120 days of their first click-through, you earn a commission.
  • Commission paid daily.
  • Use our high-quality images and easy to share information to assist your promotion.
  • Our staff is available to assist with individualized campaign strategies.
  • Access to special promotions and incentive programs.

Yes, we are talking real bucks $$$ and, yes, it is widespread.

A few reviewers, sorry, affiliates, will fess up in the beginning, as did this one:

“This article includes affiliate links. That means we will be compensated if this Winc review convinces you it is the right wine club for you.”

Sometimes on other sites a disclaimer appears in tiny print as a link at the bottom of a website. Such as this one which touts winc:

“Just so you know, this post may contain affiliate links. Meaning I receive commissions for purchases made through those links, at no cost to you. Please understand that I have experience with all of these companies, and I recommend them because they are helpful and useful, not because of the small commissions I make if you decide to buy something.”

Or this one:

“The wine club offers that appear on our website are from wine club companies from which http://www.thewineclubreviews.com receives compensation. This compensation may impact how and where products appear on this site (including, for example, the order in which they appear). This site does not include all wine club companies, or all available wine club offers.”

Somehow it is worth noting the author who rated winc tops describes himself this way:

“The author of this site is not a professional wine taster but simply loves to cook as a hobby and is extremely passionate about it.”

How about those credentials? Well, hard to say if he’s passionate about wine or cooking. Or commissions.

But who cares. At least he didn’t describe himself as a “ wine influencer.”

Now some will say, “so what?” Websites can be so easily equipped with links and cookies that this is normal and no one is being harmed. 

That reminds me of those famous words recently uttered, “Get over it.”

But I can’t get over it because, as you’ll see in my next post, wine is not just another consumer product and marketing through affiliates is becoming big business.

Just google “top wine affiliates program” and see what I mean.

 

How Some Wine Clubs Are Rated Best

Whenever someone reviews the best places to buy wines online, the focus is slanted toward subscription box types. Though my preference is for e-commerce sites that aren’t pushing memberships, they are a major part of this fascinating online world. 

And one name that seems to be at the top of almost every review published is www.winc.com.  Formerly known as Club W, it is as an e-commerce website  founded in 2012 by Xander Oxman and Geoff McFarlane because of “a shared belief that wine should be more accessible: simpler to get and easier to enjoy. “ 

Bravo, I’m all for that!

They joined forces with winemaker and sommelier Brian Smith to build a personalized wine club that has quickly grown into Winc—”a California-based winery offering an online membership experience.” 

A winery? That’s unusual.

It started out as a wine of the month club and then took off. I’ve read in Forbes they now sell around 200,000 cases a year. 

They claim their wines are featured at select retailers and restaurants nationwide.

Unable to verify this on http://www.winesearcher.com  but must be true.

Smith has a license to make wines and though I didn’t know you needed one, let’s go with the fact he has made wines at real wineries and some winc wines are bottled at a licensed winemaking premise in California.

Many of winc’s California wines are from the Central Coast, primarily Santa Barbara and Paso Robles.

Great: these are two of  my favorite regions.

Moving on. “The 150 unique wines we bottle each year range from simple blends to obscure, single vineyard fringe projects that span the globe. We feel an obligation to showcase the best that every region, varietal and style has to offer, at the best value possible.”

 “Best” is certainly an admirable goal in just about every endeavor. 

Shipments are once a month. “If you want to skip a month, it’s no problem.”

Initial wine shipments are based on a palate preference test which has such deep questions as how strong do you like your coffee and how do you feel about salt?  

Winc subscriptions begin at $39 a month for three bottles with flat $9 shipping. But Winc offers free shipping on four or more bottles.

Basic Winc bottles start at $13. There are two subscription levels, Featured and Select. At the Featured level, Winc lists wines under $20. At the Select level, Winc offers bottles between $15 and $55.

Well, so far I’ve stuck with the stated positions found on winc’s website. But then at the bottom of the home page, I noticed this:

 ‘Are you an affiliate looking to run the Winc Affiliate Program? Join now!

This got my attention and eventually helped me understand one reason why winc is so highly rated in reviews of subscription type wine clubs. A reviewer, aka an affiliate, any writer or blogger can enjoy the following perks: 

  • Earn up to $18 commission for every new subscription
  • 10% revenue share on gift card, gift box, and shop purchases
  • Variety of updated creative
  • Special coupons and seasonal promotional opportunities
  • Performance and bonus incentives for our partners
  • Opportunity to try Winc on the house!
  • Dedicated Account Management team

In other words,  positive reviews can lead to money, bonuses, and free wine. That might explain the gushy, wet your pants review of winc in Forbes.

A few influencers or reviewers, sorry, affiliates, will fess up in the beginning, as did this one:

“This article includes affiliate links. That means we will be compensated if this Winc review convinces you it is the right wine club for you.”

Not being an affiliate, I can say that $18 for an average quality Rose offered by winc is not much of a deal. Going over the list of wines. I find the prices to be a little steep for what you get.

 A Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir for $31.99, and a Mendocino Carignane also for $31.99 are hardly deals. $47.99 for Santa Rita Syrah is really pushing it.

And with just a little effort, you can certainly find  better prices on Santa Barbara Syrah. That is if you are willing to make an effort.

But other high priced wines like a Grenache from El Dorado are not the usual suspects found on other sites. 

Winc likes to give their wines fancy, made up names like Endgame and Baseline in order to convey exclusivity.  But then again, some are becoming brands like the QTY for Pinot and Grenache. But only available from winc.

One that caught my eye is the 2018 Languedoc Red is named “Cherries & Rainbows” and sells for $22.09. Winc explains it is made by Robert Eden, a winemaker in Minervois I just happen to have met several years ago in Minervois. 

Here’s a problem: a Chateau Maris Minervois from Eden’s own winery is selling on wine.com for $15.99. Cheaper, authentic, and probably a better wine. But that Eden is part of the winc program is a good thing.

The higher priced wines do come with some interesting background which is better than the nutty hype and point scores splashed all over other sites.

Against its competition like firstleaf, naked wines, and tastingroom, it is on a par with nakedwines. 

Winc’s choices are a little more unusual, more exciting but its prices are no special deals.

And though it should be clear: I am not an affiliate!!

 

 

Re-Visiting An Icon: Randall Grahm

When I recently caught up with Randall Grahm, the man who created Bonny Doon Vineyard and led the charge for Rhone wines back in the late 1980s, he was focused on the changing wine market. 

The main topic was the new style of Bonny Doon’s white Le Cigare Blanc and red Le Cigare Volant, his flagship Rhone-based wines for over 30 years.  Both wines were inspired by Chateauneuf-du-Pape and other wines from the Southern Rhone Valley.

“Wine drinkers today are fickle. They don’t want eloquent style wines, they want blockbusters. They don’t want wines that need long explanations.”

Whatever the reason may be, the fact is both newly re-designed wines are excellent and, better yet, super deals.

And as he later added, “I still want to make wines that matter. Wines that are originals, not copies.”

So here are my reviews. (Spoiler alert: these wines are definitely originals.)

The 2018 Bonny Doon Le Cigare Blanc combines Grenache Blanc with a newcomer, Vermentino. Not a well-known grape here, the latter, says Randall,”contributes good acidity and a salty tang to the blend.

The 2018 Bonny Doon Le Cigare Volant brings together Grenache, Cinsault, and Syrah.

And it is a gorgeous red with berry fruit and a rich, smooth texture.

Using Cinsault rather than, say Mourvedre, creates a “more youthful, more approachable style.”

Best News: Both are priced at $20 a bottle, before any discounts. 

Before the day was over, we tasted another dozen wines during a visit to the Bonny Doon tasting room in Davenport. That’s a tiny coastal town about 10 miles north of Santa Cruz.

Neither flashy nor funky, the tasting room is set up for drop-ins and winery club members. 

So, if you are adventurous, love to try new wines, and are looking for a club that has it all, then consider joining. Members get 20% off the current featured club wines when signing up.   www.bonnydoonvineyard.com

(And, full disclosure, I’m independent, not one of those influencers, reviewers, or bogus bloggers getting paid somehow to solicit new subscribers.)

Now let’s take a closer look at some of the exciting, unusual Bonny Doon wines.

First up, a 2018 Picpoul from the cool-climate Arroyo Seco region. Picpoul? It is an old, minor white grape in France and is known for being lively and a little brisk. The name literally translates as “lip stinger.”   This wine is bright and delicious. Price: $18.

A few days later when I was visiting Sarah’s Vineyard,  the owner proudly poured his version of Picpoul. So, something is going on with the lip stinger!

Back to Bonny Doon:

2018 Vin Gris de Cigare which is an interesting variation of a Rose. Dry and wonderfully spicy and fruit filled, it has great palate presence, rich texture and slightly creamy. Randall credits extra batonnage, lees stirring as the reason behind the 2018’s texture. Mostly Grenache and Grenache Blanc. $18. But as low as $13.99 at http://www.wine.com

The 2016 Vin Gris de Cigare Is again lively but with a delightfully long finish. Floral with peach.plum fruit, this is not your grandpa’s white Zinfandel! This would be an excellent Thanksgiving wine. $18.

So too would the next unusual wine:

2018 Bonny Doon Cinsault  Grown in Lodi, this is a refreshing, medium-bodied drink now red. Cinsault is often used to produce Rose wines, This is serious red. $42.

2018 Bonny Doon Grenache which is now grown in Monterey. Again, lots of ripe attractive youthful fruit in a medium bodied package. Not wood aged at all. $20. Also versatile enough for holiday fare.

Syrah, of course, is the best known Rhone grape and Bonny Doon now zeros in on cool-climate sites for this challenging grape. 

We tried 2 Syrah from 2013, the Central Coast and the Bien Nacido Vineyard in Santa Barbara. 

Both are deep, dark, rich and fascinating.

The Bien Nacido Syrah came across as slightly more complex, more layered as it changed in the glass. A wonderful wine for $25, a special price.

Randall Grahm was one of the first winemakers to use screw caps for all his wines. I think he began around 2000, 2001 when it was considered risky.

So it comes as no big surprise that in addition to the 50 or more wines offered in the tasting room, he also has wines in cans. The can brand is “La Bulle-Moose.”We’ll leave the story behind that name for another time.

Introducing Vinosity

 

Happy to say I’ve joined the team of writers for a new online wine magazine, “Vinosity.”

When asked, I didn’t hesitate, odd for somewhat usually over-thinking everything.

So what is Vinosity?  

Well, first, it is part of a book publishing website named “L’Academie du Vin Library” which Is based in the UK. 

Secondly, behind both is Steven Spurrier, the British writer who I got to know  when we both had columns in Decanter Magazine.  Mine ran for 15 years or so; his continues to this day.

Wine drinkers under 40 likely never heard of him.

Those over 40 should know him as the wine merchant who came up with that crazy idea of having French wine experts compare  big-named French wines against some California Cabernets and Chardonnay as part of the Bicentennial in 1976.

That event is known as the “Judgment of Paris.” Google it!

Will the Library and Vinosity prove to be Spurrier 2.0, another shock wave to change the way people think of wine?

Probably not…then again, who knows.

The major premise laid out in a recent interview is this:

“The books that taught me about wine were as much about places and people as they were about the wines themselves, and those were the stories that stuck in my mind.” 

People and places, not points, prices and  hype.

Stories, not lengthy tasting notes.

And Spurrier notes there definitely is an audience today among those who want to learn more about the pleasures of wine:

“More people are taking up the serious study of wine than ever before, especially in the US and Asia. The WSET alone has more than 100,000 students worldwide in any one year, and there are record numbers of people studying for their Master of Wine/Master Sommelier exams.”

So to make it clear that these programs are more forward-looking than retro, he

explains a little more about Vinosity:

“Vinosity – which is a kind of ‘From Our Own Correspondent’ for wine lovers  – is really close to my heart. Every month we get people who really know what they’re talking about to report in from around the world on what’s uppermost in their minds. Anything from sustainability, to quotas, to the emergence of a new grape variety.

Many of these people are friends of mine, and have absolutely no agenda other than to tell it like it is, so to speak. But we’re also hoping that Vinosity will become a platform for a new generation of wine writing talent,…”

To this veteran wine writer, a platform for a new generation is a pretty cool concept. We need to get people talking about wine again as part of a shared community of wine thinkers, not ratings-lovers and label drinkers.

Read the full interview at:

http://www.the-buyer.net/people/steven-spurrier-on-celebrating-wine-literature-with-academie-du-vin-library/

Biggest Wine Myths Found Online

MythBusters Takes on Web Wine Sellers

Rid yourself of these top 5 myths about wine and become a Savvy online wine shopper

1.A Gold (orwhatever) Medal Winning wine is Special 

Hard fact: It is not unusual for 75%-90% of wines entered into a competition to walk away with a medal. There are far too many wine competitions that are organized into for too many categories. Keep in mind that in general an Award Winning wine is most likely to be solid, of average quality. In other words, no big deal.

Barefoot wins tons of medals! Firstleaf.com relies heavily of medal winning promotions, but others are guilty.

2. Made by a “100 Point Winemaker”

Okay, at some point in his/her career, a wine made by the winemaker was rated 100 points, often referred to as “a perfect wine.”  The vineyard and the winery also deserve considerable credit, but rarely do. What’s misleading logic here is, for example, me saying I’m a perfect golfer because I onced scored a hole in one. Or you got 100% on your driving test, so you are a perfect driver ready for the Indy 500. www.vivino.com loves to undercover a wine made by a 100 point winemaker.

3. A Cult Wine, Cult Winery

Cult wine is now so overused that it basically indicates a high priced, often overpriced wine that some reviewers went ape over many years ago. If it also happens to be discounted heavily, it aint no cult. www.wineExpress.com overdoes this one.

4. From a Legendary Vintage, a Vintage of the Century

Now that some smart ass critics think rating vintages on a 100 point scale demonstrates their talent and superior knowledge, let’s take the wind out of this

quickly. In a given vintage, wines are made by humans, and some are better winemakers than others. Thus, quality varies from winery to winery in a given vintage. Also, the vintage usually stretches out over 8-10 weeks, so these overall ratings are unrelaible for all wines made in a given year.

Good wines have been made in poor vintages, and mediocre wines are made in vintages rated 95 to 100 points by some know-it-all. The vintage date has nothing to tell you about the quality of what’s inside the bottle. Used by too many sites to list the guilty.

5. Priced below retail, average retail, best web price or market price

This is tricky to explain. But as an example, nakedwines.com offers a Columbia Valley Cabernet for $12.99, well below the market price of $27.33. Such a deal, but the problem is this wine is an exclusive with this site, not sold anywhere else.

So the market price means little, being an estimate or a guess or a made up price. Discounts are unreliable when the wine is custom made, a special label, or an exclusive.

And this is true of so many wines offered by subscription box approaches.

 

 

 

Exploring the Most Diverse Wine Region

Oregon’s Most Diverse Wine Region: The Rogue Valley, Part 1, Updated and expanded in March 2024

Unlike the Willamette Valley, the Rogue Valley makes such a wide variety of wines that it defies easy generalizations. Though small by comparison with just in excess of 5,000 acres planted, the Rogue Valley grows 70 different wine varieties. Yes, from Albarino to Zinfandel. Acreage is expanding and so is the number of wineries, now well over 100. 

It is not unusual for a Rogue Valley winery, most of which are small and family owned, to cultivate over a dozen varieties and offer a dozen or more wines. But why is this diversity of any interest to normal wine consumers?  Well, being a normal enough person, as I began exploring Rogue Valley wines, my skeptical voice kept saying the stale “Jack of all trades, master of none” refrain. 

But after visiting dozens of wineries and evaluating many wines, I’ve concluded the rewards are numerous. Other than the obvious one of having more choices, you can discover varietal wines like Tannat or Vermentino at one winery, top-notch Roussanne and Cabernet Franc at another, and Tempranillo blended with Malbec, an unusual duo at several. You can also find a Mourvedre and Montepulciano and a Carmenere.  

Also, it struck me that because most of the wineries offer such a wide range of wines, visiting the area to buy direct or joining one of the clubs can be like one stop shopping.

The Background: Preparing for the Journey

Taking its name from the Rogue River, the Rogue Valley was approved as an AVA in 1991 which makes it relatively new in wine years. It is the southernmost growing wine region of Oregon. It is also large in size being 70 miles wide by 60 miles long. The AVA runs from Ashland in the southeast through the north and south sides of Medford and stretches to Grants Pass in the west. Today. What makes this diversity possible is that vineyards are planted at different elevations with different aspects and soils which lead to a wide range of opportunities.

While most of  today’s wineries started after 2000, the Rogue Valley is actually Oregon’s oldest wine region, with first vineyards planted in the 1850s. And it is home to the State’s first operating winery opened in 1873. Because most of today’s vineyards were developed after 2000, many wines, Rhones, Spanish, or Italian, are likely made from relatively new vines farmed with the latest techniques. Typically, vineyards are densely planted and organically grown with “sustainable” a common theme.

 But since consumers naturally like to have reliable information and advice, the question of what is the Rogue Valley’s signature wine needs to be addressed. On my first few visits, I thought the star was Syrah, but then I tasted a stunning Grenache from 2-Hawk (now Padigan), a beautiful Viognier from Quady North, Cabernet Franc from several wineries, and more recently Tempranillo from Peter William Vineyard and others. And then there are creative blends such as Tempranillo and Syrah. 

Getting Acquainted, One Winery at a Time

If you are unable to visit, then the best introduction to Rogue Valley and its wines is a virtual tour of the leading wineries. Your tour guide accepts tips, of course.

Our first five stops are in the Applegate Valley located on the west which was established in 2000 as a sub-region within the Rogue. With over 700 acres under vine, the Applegate Valley “has a warm-summer Mediterranean climate, like much of coastal California. However, it has four very distinct seasons, a relatively short growing season, and fog is not a factor. Winter is cold, with occasional snow. That allows the vines to go into full hibernation. Half of the area’s annual 20-30” of precipitation arrives in winter.”

Quady North

Established in 2004, Quady North has 15 acres under vine and grows 12 different varieties. Most are Rhone grapes, but it also farms Cabernet and Cabernet Franc. It recently relocated its facility and tasting room  to the Applegate Valley. Owner Herb Quady is from the California winemaking family, Quady Vineyards, best known for its dessert wines. With Quady North, he is focusing on the Rhones, especially Syrah, and special blends. Keep an eye out for his Cabernet Franc named La Battalla and his Viognier. The 2021 “La Battalla” typifies the hands on approach as the winemaker co-ferments Cab Franc with 15% whole cluster Malbec in open top fermentors using native yeasts. Old school maybe, small batch definitely and absolutely  fascinating wines. The single vineyard Syrahs lead the way.

Troon Vineyard

Tucked away in the Applegate Valley a few miles away from Quady North, Troon is the real deal when it comes to farming. It is a Demeter Biodynamic® Regenerative Organic CertifiedTM Farm which is populated by bees, sheep, and chickens. Among its recent successes, Its 2020 Tannat is a big, multi-layered Tannat with balance and refined tannins, unlike what typically comes our way from South America. It was co-fermented with 24% Malbec and 75%  was aged in neutral French oak for 18 months.. Dark in color, it is brimming with ripe plum, and raspberry aromas with background notes of baking spices.  On the palate, there’s good concentration in a polished, medium-bodied package. It remains vibrant right through the lingering finish. Impressive and enjoyable now and over the next several years. 

Also keep an eye out for the Amphora Amber which is made from Vermentino, a variety Troon has explored for years and used in a wide range of wines, this one is their version of an orange wine. You have to try the Tannat, but my recent favorite is the 2022 Siskiyou Syrah, beautiful and nuanced.

Schmidt Family

 On its 40 acre estate vineyards, Schmidt Family Vineyards in Applegate Valley grows 14 varieties, and produces 6,700 cases a year. It also makes 25 different wines in a given year.

The tasting sits in the middle of beautiful gardens with picnic tables inviting visitors to linger and relax. Many come for the food, especially the pizzas. As for the wines, I like the Albarino Reserve and also the Viognier. As is true of so many wineries, it has a hit or miss track record with Viognier. But it hit the bullseye in recent vintages. The 2021  exudes the orange blossom, honeysuckle aromatics that show Viognier at its unblended, unoaked best. Medium full on the palate, it is rich and smooth in texture with a delightful floral and citrus-edged finish. It is downright refreshing. A versatile summer white!

 Plaisance Ranch Applegate Valley 

A real working ranch with 157 acres devoted to certified organic vineyards and to grassy pastures feeding beef cattle. Most of the land is devoted to pastures.  Now run by third generation farmers, Suzi and Joe Ginet, Plaisance is located in a remote corner of the Applegate Valley.  They literally do everything by hand from grafting new vines to bottling the wine. About two dozen wines are made from the family vineyards, each in small quantities. But after tasting through the roster on a sunny afternoon, I came away amazed at the consistent quality. Their Carmenere is a solid version with excellent varietal character and no excesses. It is deep in color and offers aromas of black plum, cocoa powder  and pomegranate in a medium bodied, well balanced package. One of the best I’ve tasted not made in South America. The plum flavors are vibrant and the tannins are gentle. Their Sauvignon Blanc is also very attractive. 

Red Lily Vineyards

 Dedicated to Spanish varieties, Red Lily Vineyards has emphasized Tempranillo since it started out in 2008 when vines were established along benchlands of the Applegate River.   Winemaker/owner Rachael Martin tells us her “newest vineyard site planted to Tempranillo “has a predominantly northern aspect on a varying slope surrounding a knoll, and sits at an average elevation of 1500 feet.” And another vineyard site “has a predominantly western aspect  that rises to an elevation of 1630 feet.” She makes Tempranillo in three styles, including a Rose. A rare Verdejo is another of her specialities. The site is beautiful and picnicking along the river is especially peaceful. The picnic is complete with my favorite, the Tempranillo Rose.

Cowhorn Vineyards, Applegate Valley

With biodynamic and Demeter approved farming, Cowhorn has attracted some well-deserved media attention for its Rhone wines. Only home grown grapes are used and vines are densely planted at 2,600 vines per acre.  A little pricey for the area, but good to high quality. Of those tasted, the 2015 Sentience (100% Syrah) was loaded with fruit and peppery notes and lovely rich texture. The  ”Sprial 36”, the flagship white Rhone blend, is delicate, beautifully textured and sells for $28

As you can see in this first part we have discovered excellent rhone wines led by Syrah and Viognier, as well as Tempranillo, Malbec, Albarino, Tannat, Carmenere and the list goes on. 

Stay tuned…there’s much more ahead for us to go Rogue.

Going Rogue on the Wine Tasting Trail

 

“Pinch me, pinch me! I must be dreaming.”

A reasonable estimate is that I’ve visited hundreds of wineries over my career. Often with an appointment; most often as a drop in.

I am also compelled to disclose that my favorite play is A Midsummer Night’s Dream. 

You see I may have been under the influence of Puck during a recent visit to a wine country. So if you don’t believe any of what follows, maybe we need to get the Puck out of the conversation.

My first stop also had a good restaurant and superb valley views. Enjoying a small plate of delicious mushrooms, I sample 3 Pinot Noirs, all good with different personalities. Make that really good. Wandering inside the tasting room, I’m offered a bright, lovely Chardonnay, followed by a magnificent Pinot Noir from 7 clones, and then end with a stunning Cornas-tasting Syrah.

Turns out the well-informed tasting room guy was the owner. “Only in your dreams” you are probably saying.

Or, maybe you are curious about those mushrooms.

Next stop, a few miles away, A small winery focusing on Spanish varieties. Wait! Spanish. I definitely must be dreaming. We start with the 2017 Verdejo…bright and lively with crisp citrus flavors. Who in their right mind would make a Verdejo?

Well, it was followed by a Rose, mostly Tempranillo with Grenache and Graciano blended. In a word,”Lovely.” Next were two Tempranillos, the first with 19% Cabernet and the second, 100% Tempranillo. Well, both were excellent, beautifully made versions, one to drink now, the other to age.

After some polite chit-chat, we figure out the woman talking about the wines is the winemaker, the woman pouring, her sister. They are the owners. 

The tasting fee was waived.

Third winery was a distance away but on the other end of the pretty valley. A valley with vineyards on steep hillsides and a year-round river. Not knowing what to expect, my eyes immediately go to the manicured grounds and picnic area set up for concerts and /or weddings. We walked through the brilliant flower garden which is adjacent to the herb garden. Inside, the tasting room doubles as a restaurant. The outdoor tasting bar overlooks the picnic area and vistas. Families are picnicing; kids are playing.

We begin with a spicy, minerally Pinot Gris followed by a Viognier, ripe, rich, and powerful. Next up is a blend of 75% Viognier with 25% Chardonnay, which is more subtle, more complex, more complete. The wine is named “Amuse” and although when in a waking state I’m suspicious of wines with cutesy names, I’m in love. (Damn you, Puck!)

This dream was sure to end with a glass of 2014 Barbera plunked down before me. Nobody ever thinks of a sturdy, plummy, herbal, Barbera with definite acidity today. Unless it is complementing my last piece of pizza.

 Perfect match!

Better yet, a 2016 50-50 blend of Syrah and Cabernet was so appealing with a touch of leather with black cherry fruit and great structure, that I decided to buy a few bottles before I depart. 

That’s the big clue.

Now you too must suspect this has to be a dream because when would a wine writer ever buy a wine?

Or was it? 

The wine-cup is the little silver well,
Where truth, if truth there be, doth dwell.