Category: Syrah

Budget-Friendly Paso Robles Wines Under $25

With the crazy days of holiday shopping hype coming at us from every direction, all the major online wine retailers and wine merchants are also doing their best to get our attention. If there has been a lesson learned over the last two years as wine sales dipped, it is that wine lovers are really no different than other consumers and now realize they need to be extra careful about sticking to a budget. 

 When word got out that the average price of a Napa Valley wine was $108 a bottle, normal people probably explored alternatives. If you count yourself among the budget minded, normal people then let me share my latest wine shopping discovery. Though I’ve been following it for years, Paso Robles has emerged as a leader when it comes to quality for the price.

Paso Robles remains one of the most energized and dynamic wine regions even in these difficult times. At least it is to me. Paso Robles came alive back in 1998 when the Rhone Rangers began holding their annual event there which was followed up in 2010 by the annual Garigists wine festival. Though once just a lonely way station midway between San Francisco and LA, Paso has also come on strong as a tourist destination. And here in 2025 there’s lots of excitement in the hotel and culinary scenes.

 With so many possible story angles staring at me, one that caught my eye during a recent trip to the SoCal Coast was the way so many Paso Robles wines are beginning to dominate wine lists and special deals in wine shops. We’re talking high end restaurants, sommelier-managed wine lists.

Que Pasa Paso?

Why? Beyond quality and availability, the one pattern that emerged is that the trend setting wineries in Paso know how to hit today’s magic price point. When looking back over my recent tasting notes, it was amazing to see so many of my Paso favorites selling for around $25 a bottle or less. My gut feeling is that today’s savvy wine shoppers see $25 as the top price that fits their budget. Maybe $29.99 if a wine strikes them as exceptional. 

The Paso Players

The Paso wineries I see as major players in this trend are a mix of well-established names like Ancient Peaks and J. Lohr and newcomers. A few others belong to major marketing companies, and many are your Mom & Pop family folks. Most of the wines are red which is no big surprise. Overall, when you visit the Tin City wineries or many others, the energy level and enthusiasm is reminiscent of Napa before 2000. Paso has become a magnet for creative maverick winemakers and outliers. Just recently Napa’s Tank Garage Winery joined the Paso scene. Check it out and you’ll get my point.

As for wines, Paso was noted early on for Petite Sirah, Zinfandel and the Rhones, and these are all included in the price point $25 club. But Cabernets, Bordeaux blends and other creative blends are well-represented and seem to be replacing Napa wines on many wine lists and also in the minds of many wine lovers.

So now that we’ve plugged in the destination on our map, “let’s go” to the top Paso wines hovering around the  $25 price point. 

First Stop: Petite Sirah and Zinfandel

Peachy Canyon Paso Robles (California) Petite Sirah 2021 $20

Best known for its bold Zinfandels, Peachy Canyon also has a good track record for Petites in a rich but supple style. Deep dark in color, this 2021 offers an aroma of sweet black fruit and fig along with some dried herbs. It turns plush and smooth on the palate driven by a solid core of blackberry flavors and light oak. It finishes long and seamless. With its lovely silky texture and subtle oak notes, it is well-knit and ready to drink now.  90

Brady Vineyards Paso Robles Petite Sirah 2021  $20

 After honing his winemaking skills in Texas, Don Brady went West to work for Robert Hall in Paso Robles. In 2006 he acquired a 24 acre vineyard and began focusing on Paso red wines.

If you like Paso Petite, Brady checks all of the boxes. His 2021 was aged in French oak for 18 months. Dark in color, it has that  intense, ripe blackberry aroma with some black pepper that sets the varietal apart. Full-bodied with concentrated flavors of blackberries, boysenberries and some vanilla bean, it is tight and concentrated on the palate with light tannin and oak.  More powerful than nuanced, but fairly well-mannered, it could benefit from a little cellaring to soften. But with decanting, it would serve you well as a complement to most smoked meats and, to me, especially with osso buco. Also, a good value. 90

The Big, Red Monster Lot #2 Paso Robles, Zinfandel $20

Yes, here’s a Paso red wine that boasts about being big. Now owned by War Room Cellars based in San Luis Obispo, this brand began in 2005 as a partnership between winemakers Bob Pepi (formerly of Robert Pepi winery) and Jeff Booth (formerly of Conn Creek). The brand was relaunched in 2019 and aimed at a market that loves big and powerful wines. Promoted as a “savage beast,” this Lot #2 is Zinfandel blended with Petite Sirah and Tannat. After an extended maceration “for bigger extraction,” it was aged in French and American oak, 20% new. While definitely big, ripe and juicy, it offers an attractive aroma of blackberry and pepper with some spiciness. On the palate it is round but ultra soft and has enough fruitiness to keep the tannin and alcohol at bay. 91

Next, let’s move on to Syrah

McPrice Myers Central Coast (California) Right Hand Man Syrah 2023 $ 20

Headquartered in Paso Robles, this winery enjoyed a cult-like following for its red wines. They usually are given unusual names like “High on the Hog” and “Right Hand Man.”  Blending Central Coast fruit, winemaker Mac Myers crafts this well-rendered Syrah that offers depth and approachability at a very attractive price.  Aged 10 months in neutral oak, it has a lovely aroma of ripe plum with secondary fragrances of pepper, spice and leather. Nothing overdone or funky here, this Syrah is rich and smooth on the palate delivering savory flavors of fresh berries, plums and spice. The tannins are soft and add roundness to the texture. Syrah lovers should keep a bottle of this “Right Hand Man” close at hand. Wine lovers should check out this winery. 92

Ancient Peaks Winery Paso Robles, Santa Margarita Ranch Renegade 2020 $26

With its “Renegade” blend, Ancient Peaks has been successful in working with Paso Syrah to come up with an attractive drink now red.  I like the way it tones down the gamey, meaty side of Syrah but still emphasizes its fruit. In 2020 the final blend was 67% Syrah, 27% Petit Verdot and 5% Malbec.  The individual components are cold soaked and after fermentation they are aged for 20 months in French and American oak, 20% new.  Dark in color, the wine shows a pleasing mix of Syrah’s dark fruit along with subtle fresh berries. It continues with this combination and adds some coffee and oak toast and spice in the flavors. Nicely structured with modest tannins, it finishes with simple fruit and good length. Excellent all-purpose red. 90

Turning to The Main Event: Cabernets

 Daou Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Paso Robles 2021 $25

This dark, ripe and juicy Cabernet is made for those who like it plump and chunky. The aroma of dark, ripe fruit with hints of anise and dried herbs sets you up for a big, rich mouthfilling wine with light toasty oak and tannins providing structure. With some airing the flavors open to reveal nuances of black tea and berry fruit before the youthful tannins are picked up to carry this to its rugged, sturdy finish.This full-bodied Cab is a blend of 83% Cabernet with 9% Petite Verdot and a splash of Merlot and it was aged for 10 months in 50% new French oak. It is a lot of wine for the money. 91

Groundwork Wine Co. Paso Robles (California) Cabernet Sauvignon, 2023 $23

Groundwork Wine is a new line of wines from Curt Schalchin of Sans Liege which is noted for its high-end Rhone blends. With Groundwork, he focuses on good value varietal wines from Paso Robles and this 2023 Cabernet confirms that Paso Robles is the real deal for great value Cabs. This 2023 is made from three vineyards within Paso, and the wine, blended with 12% Petit Verdot, was aged in neutral oak for 18 months. Bottled unfined and unfiltered, it delivers plenty of ripe black fruit with hints of black pepper and bay leaf. With light tannin, it is firmly structured and has an aftertaste of black cherry and spice. Enjoy now through 2028.  92

The Fableist Wine Co. Paso Robles (Central Coast) “373” Cabernet Sauvignon 2022 $25

Andrew Jones, winemaker for Field Recordings and Curt Schalchlin, owner of Sans Liege combine their talents for the Fableist collection of wines. The names are based on Aesop’s Fables, and apparently, judging from the label, fable #373 is about ants and bugs. Or whatever! Moving on to the wine, in the 2022 vintage the fruit was picked earlier than usual due to the heat wave. Fermented in tanks and aged in American oak barrels, 10% new, the final blend was 85% Cabernet filled out by Merlot, Malbec, Petit Verdot and Petite Sirah. Once poured, this wine shows fresh blackberry and currant aromas and flavors with youthful tannin poking through. With aeration, it slowly opens and adds a little spice and cedar to accompany the  juicy dark fruits. Needs time to settle down and should be decanted.  A good value for a Paso Cab. 90

Maddalena Paso Robles Estate Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon  2021 $24.

Part of the Riboli family’s expanding portfolio, Maddalena offers white wines from Monterey and reds from the estate vineyards in Paso Robles. Blended with 5% Petit Verdot and 5% Cabernet Franc, this Cabernet was partially aged (45%) in small oak. It is all about ultra ripe black fruit such as black cherry and plum in aroma and flavor. Medium full bodied, it comes across as plush on the palate with plenty of tannin and oak spice. It finishes on a slight tannic note.

Overall this is an attractive fruit-forward Cabernet for current drinking.  89

Paso D’Oro Wines Paso Robles Cabernet Sauvignon 2023 $23

Paso D’Oro is a relatively new brand created by the Terlato family which owns prime properties like Chimney Rock, Rutherford Hill, Sanford among others. This 2023 was sourced from 4 AVAs within Paso, and the wine was aged in neutral oak and blended with 24% Petite Sirah. Deep and dark in the glass,  it opens quickly with attractive black fruit with accents of clove and spice. Quite full bodied with rich flavors supported by velvety tannins. Smooth finish. With loads of terrific ripe fruit, pleasing texture, and some complexity, this is a great choice for current enjoyment.  91

Tooth & Nail Wine Co. Paso Robles, Cabernet Sauvignon 2020 $26

This is an old review, but it is from the winery that ignited my interest in Paso Cabernets.This vintage was presented in a unique bottle that requires a detailed background explanation and an APP to download.  But the wine inside is first-rate and a wonderful example of Paso Cabernet. Saying it “reinvented the wine label,” the winery created an augmented reality label that with the app will sing to you. Literally sing, honest. From its deep purple color to its rich, ripe aromatics, this wine sings on its own. Initial aromas of chocolate and spice give way to ripe blackberry and oak spice. It is big-bodied with a smooth unctuous texture. The flavors remain focused on ripe black fruit with dusty oak tannin in the background. The finish is long with good acidity keeping it balanced throughout. The current vintage is 2022 and sells for $28. 

Quest Austin Hope Winemaker, Paso Robles Cabernet Franc 2023 $23

The “Quest”  label is the Hope family’s long-term  commitment to Paso Cabernet Franc, and prior vintages contained some % of Cab Sauvignon. This is the first vintage made entirely from Cab Franc. The majority of the fruit sourced for the 2023 Quest Cabernet Franc was from the Creston District, Future vintages will also incorporate fruit from the Highlands District and Adelaida District.  You don’t need a SOMM course to recognize this is Cab Franc. The aroma is a textbook combination of plums, dried herbs and tobacco leaf. Medium bodied and solid, it is lively with plum and licorice flavors. Some briary tannins give a little push to the finish. Sort of like a footballer’s “tush push.”  A red to enjoy with grilled meats and rich pastas. 90

J Lohr Wines Paso Robles Los Osos Merlot 2022  $15

This Merlot is hard to beat at this price. J.Lohr’s Merlot is planted in the relatively cool El Pomar District. Blended with a big splash of Malbec (10%) and a dash of Cabernet Franc (5%), this 2022 was aged for 12 months in American oak. In an approachable and lively style, it opens with an aroma of fresh plums and light spice. Medium bodied and balanced, it offers plum and cherry flavors in a smooth package. Not flashy, just easy to enjoy.

WHITES

Sans Liege Wines Central Coast Cotes du Coast 2023 $20

Based in Paso Robles, winemaker Curt Schalchlin is a noted Rhone wine specialist. But as evidenced by his artsy labels and unconventional wine descriptions, he does things differently. Sourcing from some of the best known vineyards in Santa Barbara and elsewhere, he assembled this blend of 36% Viognier, 32% Marsanne, 17% Clairette, 11% Roussanne, and 4% Grenache Blanc. All but the Grenache are barrel fermented by native yeasts and lees aged in French oak. But the wine is, surprisingly given its composition, a smooth, subtle and lively ready to drink white. It immediately gets your attention with fresh peach, lemon and honeysuckle aromas. Medium bodied, nicely textured and vibrant, it offers stone fruit flavors and has a long finish that is neither bitter nor acidic. Charming and fun to drink and nicely priced to boot.

92

Ancient Peaks Winery Paso Robles Santa Margarita Ranch Sauvignon Blanc 2023 $18 

Made from the coolest blocks within the family’s estate vineyard, this 2023 also benefited from the relatively cool growing season. It is pale straw in color and shows plenty of vibrant fruit such as melon and pear along with light ginger and flintiness. Medium bodied, it continues with flavors of melon and lemongrass. In the crisp but lengthy finish, I pick up subtle hints of ginger and  apple. Aged for 6 months in stainless, it makes a good case for unoaked Sauvignon Blanc and pairs well with a wide range of entrees. 91

One Stone Cellars Central Coast Rose of Pinot Noir 2024 $18

One Stone is a brand created by Ancient Peaks Winery in Paso to support mentoring programs for women venturing into the wine business. The label’s image projects moving mountains one stone at a time. From the estate vineyard in Paso and others in the Central Coast, this Rose is made 100% from Pinot Noir that was grown and harvested solely for Rose production. Aged 4 months in stainless steel, it is a big friendly wine that is all about fresh strawberry and juicy watermelon aromas and flavors. Smooth and round on the palate, it finishes with a touch of acidity to sustain its lively personality. 90

Wait, There’s More

The wines mentioned so far are good examples of the great deals from Paso Robles, but they are just a solid beginning. 

The Harvey & Harriet label, associated with Booker Vineyards, offers an attractive Red Blend from Paso and a White Blend from San Luis Obispo. Both are priced below $25.

Another wine to check out is named Big, Bold Red. It is a blend of 50% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Syrah. 

Highlands 41 is a new brand from the Riboli Family. Among the first to hit the market is its 2017 “Darkness,” Estate Reserve selling for $15.00  

So, that’s for now. Many of the reviews you see here are available at www.winereviewonline.com 

Go to the sight, and specify Paso Robles to see a lot more reviews of good value wines.

Marietta Cellars: Wines for Sharing

If you are shopping for excellent wines at reasonable prices, then forget about those made by celebrities, cult wines, and wines made by 100 point rockstar winemakers. Let them all be legends in their own minds, and seek out wines made by real people.

I recently rediscovered one of my favorite examples of a family owned winery making excellent, affordable wines. Here’s how the winemaker summarizes things:

“It feels right to make the best wine possible and to sell it at a fair price. Our instincts tell us that being honest, being consistent, working hard, and thinking outside the box is more important than anything else in business.” 

The California winery is Marietta Cellars, founded in 1978 by Chris Bilbro and now in the hands of Scot, his winemaker son. While the original winery in Sonoma County was a rented cow barn, they now own 300 acres in Mendocino and Sonoma. And  if you like old vine wines from Syrah and Grenache, well the Bilbros are your kind of people. They have some of the best vineyards farmed organically.

Since Day #1, Marietta Cellars produced affordable wines, starting with blended red wines based on Zinfandel. Their benchmark Old Vine Red was first made in 1982. “Affordable” and “blended” are not exactly popular search tags in today’s wine world. Then add that the production is not tiny and the wines are not allocated to a select few, and voila?  Marietta wines are available direct from the winery, online, and yes, even in wine shops.

Go to www. mariettacellars.com  You can also find 8 Marietta Cellars’ wines today at www.wine.com 

Here are my recent reviews on two of those wines:

Marietta Cellars California OVR Old Vine Rose 2023 $19

Here’s an absolutely lovely Rose to enjoy year round. The Bilbro family has long specialized in old vine wine, and Scot Bilbro has been the winemaker since 2012. Chris Bilbro, his dad, founded Marietta back in 1978. This 2023 Rose is made from 50% Syrah, 25% Grenache, and 25% Grenache Gris, with all of the fruit from the estate’s organically grown McDowell Valley vineyards established well over 100 years ago.  With its inviting coral-pink color and its lively peach and melon aroma, the wine charms you and seals the deal with its juicy peach and pomegranate flavors which come with  a hint of spice. Nicely textured, it remains lively on the palate and finishes on a crisp note. 93 points 

2021 Marietta Cellars “Christo,”  Estate Grown, North Coast  $20.00

“Christo” refers to the family nickname for Chris Bilbro, veteran Sonoma winemaker. A Rhone blend (68% Syrah, 20% Grenache, 18% Petite Sirah, & 4% Viognier), this is a powerful, full bodied red. Aged for 18 months in neutral oak, this blend offers a solid core of ripe fruit and is built on a solid foundation. The aroma is fantastic. It opens to reveal background notes of spice, ripe plums and earthy, forest floor. Some subtle floral hints of violets and lavender emerge with aeration. On the palate, black pepper pokes through in the intense, rich berry flavors. The lengthy finish has a pleasant touch of juicy blackberry fruit and light tannin.  Taken altogether, this wine has it all. It is a whole lot of wine for the money and should age well. 94 points

So why isn’t Marietta Cellars better known?

Well, I’ll let the Bilbros offer a reason: “We are hands-on and busy year-round.”

Sales Alert!

Terre Rouge Wines

On Thursday, August 22, Bill Easton with Terre RougeWines will begin a major sale:

Mediterranean Madness Sale 2024

Starts Thursday, August 22nd Online

Watch for our email Thursday morning with all the details!

So my best advice is get on the mailing list.  

sales@terrerougewines.com

And here are my recent reviews to whet your appetite:

2011 Domaine de la Terre Rouge, Sierra Foothills (California) Roussanne Monarch Mine Vineyard              

 Following whole cluster pressing, the juice was barrel fermented and the wine aged on the lees. Beginning with its deep golden color, this wine was a unique experience.  Rich and deeply concentrated with great viscosity, it delivers ripe pear flavors with some floral notes.  This vintage is maturing nicely, but still has plenty of life ahead of it.  As for a rating, how about rare and wonderful.     97 points Norm Roby 

WINES FROM THE CELLAR2005 Domaine de la Terre Rouge, Sierra Foothills (California) Roussanne  ($75): From the winery’s cellar courtesy of Bill Easton.  The color here is medium yellow but with some lively green glints.  You really have to suspend your instincts about an “old” looking white because this wine is still very much alive.  The intense aroma is a combination of nectarine and candle wax with some citrus and green tea subtleties.  Concentrated with layers and layers of flavors, the wine offers a silky smooth, creamy texture from bottle aging.  It has developed nuances of pear and honey flavors and a touch of almond but it is all seamless and harmonious at this stage.  Finishes long and lively.  What a treat to experience how well Roussanne responds to cellaring.  It held up well when tasted again a day later.  Amazing wine.     98 points Norm Roby

Going Rogue, Part 2: The People Behind the Label

Why would any normal person start a winery these days? Well, let’s go rogue and find out.

Oregon just nudged ahead of Washington State and is now home to over 1,000 wineries, second only to California. The last I heard California  had over 4000 wineries. New wineries are opening up each week and the Rogue Valley is attracting more than its fair share of newbies.

But why now?

The oft quoted reason is “the pursuit of a dream and the lifestyle.”  That was voiced during the boom decades of the 70s and 80s in California and still reverberates in this decade along the entire West Coast.  

Who are these wine dreamers? In the US, unlike in traditional wine countries, most winery start-up founders are career changers (doctors, lawyers, high-tech) but a few are from a farming background and a few are out and out science nerds. Yes, there are wineries started by celebrities of some kind with too much money and too big of an ego. And then there’s the epiphany story. 

When you peek behind the label to see who the owners are among the rising stars, you once again encounter the Rogue Valley’s diversity. 

Goldback Wines: Watch out for Lightning

Speaking of an epiphany, Goldback is a good place to start our second tour of the Rogue Valley. Named after a fern indigenous to Southern Oregon, this authentic, small lot artisan winery was launched in 2016 by winemaker/owner Andy Meyer. He caught the wine bug as a college student looking for a summer job.  “I answered a craigslist ad for a tasting room job for the summer, which just happened to be for Cristom Vineyards.  Within 15 minutes of driving up the driveway for the interview, a lightning bolt struck. I knew that working in wine was what I wanted to do for the rest of my life.”

 After the lightning strike his resume expanded to include working harvests at William Selyem and Hirsch Vineyards in Sonoma, Felton Road in New Zealand, Mark Ryan in Washington, and Cape Mentelle in South Africa. From these experiences as well as his time as a restaurant wine director, he favors a minimalist approach to winemaking and aims to preserve natural acidity in whites and tannin integration in his reds. 

As for his own wines, the red Cuvee is the winery’s version of a Cotes du Rhone, drink now red. A blend of  58% Syrah and 42% Grenache, it offers plenty of bright raspberry fruit in its aroma and has a pleasing soft entry to deliver berry and cherry flavors.

Goldback’s Syrah is a blockbuster that showcases Syrah’s full throttle concentration and purity and is all about the grape and the site.  In recent vintages, Meyer sought out the nearby Meadowlark Vineyard with its granite soils and sustainable farming. But the site is also very windy which forces the vines to shut down frequently and contribute to a long growing season. Similar, says Meyer, to the effect of the Mistral in the Rhone. The resulting wine is dark purple and loaded with ripe plum and a floral, wild thyme character. Medium full, it is concentrated with dense, ripe black fruit flavors and some black pepper. Plush and seamless, it will benefit from a couple of years of bottle aging. But could age for a decade or more. 

From the oldest block of Grenache from the neighboring Jaxon Vineyard,Goldback’s  Grenache is a selection of the winemaker’s favorites. Those selected stood out for being “Pinot Noir-ish”and the wine is indeed not your typical Grenache. A long cold soak and a 22 day fermentation with some whole clusters, the wine was aged 18 months in neutral French oak. The nose offers up loads of vibrant, cherry, strawberry fruit that carry over into the smooth flavors. There’s a touch of earthiness in the nicely textured finish. In 2020, Goldback continued experimenting and bottled one barrel of Grenache that was 100% whole cluster, carbonic maceration.

Did I mention the remarkable Chenin Blanc? 

www.goldbackwines.com

Is There a Doctor in the Winery?

A beautiful hillside vineyard overlooking the Rogue Valley in Southern Oregon was planted by Dr. Peter William Adesman. Along with being a full-time practicing physician, he has been an avid wine collector and educator since the 1970s, and long dreamed of producing his own wines. He notes: ”In 2007, my wife, Dr. Robin Miller, and I moved to a property in the Rogue Valley where we could plant a 10-acre vineyard. That is how Peter William Vineyard was born. Our first commercial vintage was 2016.”

Peter, only call him “Doctor” if you are his patient, is dynamic, enthusiastic and has an encyclopedic wine knowledge based on tasting and traveling. For his winery,  Syrah is offered in several styles. Of the 4 Syrahs made by this winery in 2018, one labeled Candives is 100% Syrah made from the estate vineyard and aged entirely in French oak, 50% new. To distinguish it from the others, the winery went with the “Candives” name, said to be an alternate name for Syrah used in the tiny village of Chavanay in the Northern Rhone Valley. As fine as the other 2018s are, this is so dark, dense, and dramatic that the special name is certainly merited. Ultra smooth and seamless, it is beautiful now but will also bring rewards with cellaring. 94 points.

Another small batch Peter William Syrah is made from estate grown grapes which are vinified by winemaker Eric Weisinger who is the “W” referenced on the label. The end result is a compact, powerful expression of Syrah that may be one of the best values around these days. It is pure ripe Syrah beginning with its dark color and earthy, leathery, black pepper aromatics. 

Then there’s an exciting blend  from Peter William aptly named “Extravagance.” It may be going on elsewhere, but Southern Oregon sure seems to be a hotbed of creative winemaking energy leading to fascinating blends and unusual wines.  A 50-50 blend of Tempranillo and Syrah, Extravagance is aged for 21 months in French oak and bottled unfined and unfiltered. This intriguing blend turns out to be delicious red wine with both depth and charm. It comes across as ripe, plush Syrah built on a Tempranillo framework.

Check out the club possibilities at

www.peterwilliamvineyard.com

Padigan

3rd Generation Grower/Farmer

In 2023, the 2-Hawk Winery was rebranded Padigan, the name taken from a soil type. This 24 acre vineyard is owned by Ross Allen, a third generation farmer from the San Joaquin Valley. 

Both before and after the name change, Malbec was a major success along with the winery’s Syrah and Viognier. With the release of its 2019 wines, the winery began hitting full stride. 2019 was an exceptionally long, coolish growing season, and  the winery’s estate grown Malbec was not harvested until mid to late October.  The juice was wild yeast fermented, blended with 10% Cabernet Sauvignon and aged for 28 months in oak. 21% new, 61% neutral. Intensely dark, this Malbec is concentrated and needs some aeration to strut its stuff  Overall, an exciting, multi-layered Malbec.

Then there’s Padigan’s Viognier. It takes a grower who knows every vine on the estate to know the best time to harvest Viognier. Ross works closely with winemaker Kiley Evans who explains:

“The trick with Viognier is getting it ripe beyond the bitter almond finish that can be a nuisance in the wine, but not so ripe that it is overly alcoholic/hot and I’ve seen that progression happen in as little as 2-3 days.”

Padigan’s 2021 is a lovely expression of Viognier. Big and round on the palate, it remains lively with good citrus fruit along with crunchy melon flavors. The texture is heavenly and the wine brings it home with a long lasting finish with a subtle zing to it. This could serve as a benchmark Viognier that’s neither over the top in ripeness and alcohol nor one that relies on oak. Native yeast fermented, It was aged sur lies for 11 months in 35% new French oak and later rested on  the lees in stainless for 6 months. It seems likely to become even more complex with aging for 3 to 5 years

http://www.padigan.com 

Dancin Vineyards: Viticulture Students

DAN and CINdy Marka met while studying viticulture at UC Davis. To them, wine is all about sites, clones, soils and aspect. Both must have been super students because their vineyard is beautiful and impeccably maintained. 

Dancin is also one of a handful of Rogue Valley wineries making a Pinot Noir, but Dan Marka explains,

“ Our site was created for Pinot Noir and Chardonnay with its north, northeast facing aspect, 1800 foot average elevation and shade occurring beginning at 5:45pm (depending on the Block) throughout the growing season. We are finding that we can produce delicious Pinot Noir with great flavors and balance at alcohol levels in the mid to upper 12’s to the very low 13’s. Our wide diurnal swings allow for flavors and ripeness to occur during the day with acids retained during the overnight hours. We can see daytime highs to overnight lows vary by 40 degrees!” 

And he adds that the same Pinot Noir clones ripen later at his site than they do in McMinnville or Dundee.

As a specialist, Dancin is an exception where it is more common to grow a dozen or more varieties within an estate. But, digging a little deeper, you discover the winery’s roster offers lots of exciting choices.  Dancin makes 4 distinct Chardonnays, 4 Pinots from different blocks or different clones. It also makes Syrah, Sangiovese and Barbera. If you enjoy Barbera, Dancin’s won’t disappoint.

www.dancin.com

Weisinger Family Winery: 2nd generation wine grower

Tempranillo Estate, Rogue Valley

The Weisinger Family, on the eastern edge in Ashland is said to specialize in Tempranillo along with, Rhone and Bordeaux varietals.. Quite diverse for a 3,000 case annual output.

Acreage planted to Tempranillo has steadily increased in Southern Oregon over the last decade. Located just outside of Ashland, Weisinger was founded in 1988, making it one of the oldest in Southern Oregon. After assuming the winemaker’s role, Eric Weisinger began grafting over the original Gewurztraminer vines to Tempranillo. Adjacent to the winery, the Tempranillo occupies a steep, high elevation (2235 feet) northeast facing site. The Weisinger Family, on the eastern edge in Ashland is said to specialize in Tempranillo, Pinot Noir, Rhone and Bordeaux varietals, as well as proprietary blends. Quite diverse for a 3,000 case annual output.

My first experience with Weisinger was with the wines from 2018. 2018 was an ideal long, slow growing season with the Tempranillo picked in the first week of October. After being cold soaked and fermented for 20 days by native yeasts, the wine was barrel aged for 17 months in 30% new American oak. It offers lovely bright cherry fruit with hints of black tea and spice in a solid, medium weight package. The black cherry and spice theme continues in the deep flavors with subtle oak toast and firm, integrated tannins coming into play.  Beautifully structured and focused throughout, it should drink well over the next 5-7  years. Not surprisingly,  Weisinger’s Tempranillos have won many awards. I’ve scored them 93 and 94 in two recent vintages.

Weisinger Family Winery Roussanne, Fortmiller Vineyard, Rogue Valley, Oregon, 2019 

Normally part of a Rhone blend, Roussanne as a stand alone varietal is one that seems to challenge winemakers. After experimenting earlier with Roussanne, in 2018 Weisinger resumed its efforts after discovering the north-facing Fortmiller Vineyard in 2018. In 2019, Weisinger harvested the Roussanne at a low 22.4 Brix to preserve acidity and after whole cluster pressing the winery barrel fermented the wine using native and commercial yeasts. The lees were stirred throughout the long fermentation. The result is a wine that showcases floral and lemony aromas, and the flavors are bright with citrus and honeysuckle notes. The leesy texture adds complexity and length to this delicate, lively and pretty wine.

http://www.weisingers.com

Belle Fiore Winery: Scientists

Belle Fiore is the closest thing to a Napa-ish winery with its rather elaborate tasting room and chateau-like facility. It has a busy restaurant and is even a mini art gallery. But it is also serious about its wines made from its 31 acre estate vineyard surrounding the winery. The roster consists of the usual varieties  such as Merlot and Syrah but then you get to the “others,” especially the Italians. Here you’ll find a Montepulciano (my fav), a Barbera, Teroldego, Fiano,  and a rare Caprettone grape.  These are all possible because the owners have identified what they call “16 micro-blocks” based upon soil types and elevation.  Owner Edward Kerwin is a clinical research scientist and his wife Karen has an M.A in genetic counseling. Together they launched Belle Fiore in 2007. 

Long Walk Vineyard: A Dream Retreat from Silicon Valley

Located in the hills above Ashland, Long Walk is a newly developed vineyard and historic 35 acre orchard owned by Kathy and Tom O’Leary, Silicon Valley techies. After a prolonged search, they settled on this cool, south facing site to pursue their dream to make Rhone inspired wines. The 11-acre vineyard is planted primarily to Rhone varieties.  But they also like Zinfandel so there’s a smattering of Zin. “Field Notes” is  their version of a GSM Rhone blend. Made from 40% Grenache, 30% Mourvedre, 10% Syrah and a splash of Carignane, it is medium dark in color and unfolds quickly in the glass. The nose starts out with pretty plum fruit along with a hint of leather and game but the bright black fruit character prevails. The flavors add some herbs and cherry and are presented in a round body with gentle, dusty tannins poking through. Pleasantly subtle and charming overall, it is one to enjoy over the next several years. Kudos for the light touch. 

With Rose wines being so trendy and Roses now being made from just about every red grape available,  it was an eye opener to encounter Long Walk’s rose from a red grape that’s ideal for a Rose: Cinsault. Popular in Southern France, Cinsault is light in color and low in tannin and  remains the backbone for many Provence Roses. From vines planted in 2002, this winery’s Rose is an attractive pink-copper color and offers an aromatic mix of  just picked strawberries, rose petals and summer flowers.  Medium bodied and vibrant, it is balanced and has just enough acidity to bring it to a delicate finish. 

As for the Long Walk Zinfandel, it too is impressive. 

www.longwalkvineyard.com

Talent Cellars “Nuf Said Red” 

This new family run winery is based in the small town of Talent, near Medford. The label is a replica used by the family when the land was a pear orchard. Winemaker Matt Newbry and his wife Janéa, attribute the Inspiration Behind Talent Cellars to the very soil their family has been farming In Talent, Oregon since the 1920’s.

Sourced from two nearby vineyards, the 2017 Nuf Said is a blend of 75% Cabernet Sauvignon with 13% Petit Verdot and 12% Grenache. It was aged 22 months in French and American oak (50% new). It is medium bodied and vibrant with bright berry fruit and graphite and cedar in the aroma, yet it sweeps across the palate with juicy, ripe fruit and a hint of vanilla from the oak.  Beautifully balanced, it finishes with light, ultra smooth tannins. Production was 250 cases.

And with that, I too say “nuf said.”

Exploring Guadalupe ValleyWines

5 Takeaways from Guadalupe Valley 

Throughout 2023, numerous stories appeared in national media outlets announcing Mexico’s Guadalupe Valley as “the next Napa Valley.” Or Guadalupe as “Mexico’s Napa Valley.”

In one of those annual reader survey pieces, it finished a close second to Walla Walla. 

Travel articles with a romantic getaway theme or wine country destination focus were common.  A google search for Guadalupe Valley wines will show dozens of travel suggestions, tours tips, tour packages, tour guides and itineraries featuring wineries and culinary recommendations. 

 Located about 60 miles south of the US border, or just over an hour’s drive from San Diego, Guadalupe’s wine route has come alive with new wineries, new resorts, boutique hotels, and trendy restaurants. Wine-related income in Guadalupe Valley hovers around $200 million a year.

No longer flying under the radar, Guadalupe Valley secured international recognition in late 2022 by hosting the 43rd annual World congress of vines. Many of its wines win awards and medals in various annual wine competitions. With only 25 wineries existing before 2005, Guadalupe is now home to 150+ wineries, 100 restaurants, 92 hotels and boutiques, and 12 taco stands. A few sources now say there are over 180 wineries. 

Regarding viticulture, Guadalupe Valley is a real anomaly. Standard logic in all textbooks maintains that wine grapes should only be grown within the 30 to 50 latitude. Guadalupe is located at the 21-22 degree latitude and there are over 10,000 acres planted to a wide range of vinifera varieties. 

Defying logic, the mantra in Guadalupe is that it is all about altitude, not latitude. Located at elevations from 500 to 2000 feet above sea level, most vineyards benefit from cooling breezes from the Pacific on one side and the Sea of Cortez on the other. With wide diurnal swings during the summertime, the climate is basically Mediterranean. Or “best described as Mediterranean” as one winemaker explained because being dry and desert-like, it doesn’t fit into any neat category. 

So after postponing a planned visit due to covid, I finally visited this much talked about wine valley in Northern Baja. Research before the visit entailed reading many of the feature stories and, of course, tasting as many Guadalupe wines that were available during my stay in Cabo San Lucas.

My vinous version of the Baja 1000 began by departing the totally screwed up city of Tijuana in a crappy rental car that barely made it out of town. Later in the day we were welcomed to Guadalupe by rain that challenged the car’s wipers. That’s right, rain in Guadalupe Valley is about as common as rain in the Sahara.

That rain was a great omen or set up for a series of unexpected experiences that followed when visiting wineries, tasting wines, and getting a feel for this most unusual wine region. The rain made the sandy roads to the wineries even more challenging to navigate with deep potholes filled with water along with rocks and a few chickens. But holding on tight to the wheel we visited the region. What follows are takeaways from five wineries that capture the uniqueness of Guadalupe as not only an emerging wine destination but also an exciting wine producing region.  

“This can’t be Nebbiolo,” I tactfully mentioned to the Vinedos Malagon hostess. It was deep garnet, concentrated, with ripe flavors and some tannin. She brought over the bottle and yes it was Nebbiolo. I shouldn’t have been so surprised since the previous wine was Malagon’s Grenache, also unusually rich. She explains that the winery has access to Grenache planted by Russian immigrants in the 1940s. That’s right, the vines are at least 70 years old. And as for Nebbiolo, it was said to be brought into Guadalupe long ago but identity tags were never found to verify its DNA. Well, that was my first visit.

#1 Takeaway: Prepare for Guadalupe wines that aren’t typical and for wines made from odd, old varieties, old vines.

Malagon was founded in 1997 when only a dozen wineries were operating in Guadalupe and very few wine varieties besides Grenache and Nebbiolo were planted. Pedro Domecq opened a winery in 1972 but like many of the distillers who arrived earlier, it favored Palomino and Colombard in the early years. Also in the 1970s Jim Concannon and others from California visited and introduced then popular varieties such as Chenin Blanc, Petite Sirah, Zinfandel, Barbera, Cabernet, Carignane, and the once popular Ruby Cabernet. The latter variety is a key component in Domecq’s XA red and Petite Sirah is one of Cetto’s most popular and attractive wines. 

Today the Valley’s wineries reflect a balance of an international cast of characters and local families. Those established varieties attracted foreign investors such as the Henri Lurton Medoc family. It seems telling that Bodegas Henri Lurton’s flagship wines from Guadalupe are Nebbiolo and Chenin Blanc. 

Next stop was Casa Magoni whose wines I had enjoyed prior to the visit. In the new tasting room, white wines were first offered and they were not the typical blends. Magoni poured a Chardonnay and Fiano blend named “Manaz.” Also, another white brings together Chardonnay and Vermentino which is just as impressive. Among the reds, the Sangiovese-Cabernet is excellent, but the most unusual tasted was labeled Origen 43 which combines Montepulciano, Aglianico, Canaiolo, Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon. All those varieties were established 16 years ago. But, of course, Magoni makes a Nebbiolo which is excellent.

Turns out that Camillo Magoni, who studied Enology and Viticulture degree from the Enologica a Di Alba in Piedmont, Italy was invited by the Cetto winery to work in the cellars. After 40 years he left to establish Casa Magoni where he introduced many Italian varieties as well as others from France. Today with more than 100 different grape varieties on 278 hectares, this is the largest experimental vineyard in Guadalupe and all of Mexico. 

#2 Takeaway

Today with over 100 wine varieties being grown, some of Guadalupe’s finest wines are rare combinations and unique blends. There’s the Red from SantoTomas that is made from 34% Mission, 33% Tempranillo, and 33% Carignan. I love Emerve’s “Isabella” which brings together Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Viognier in a bright, full bodied style. El Cielo’s 2020 Blanc de Blancs consists of Sauvignon Blanc and Chenin Blanc with a good dose of Palomino and Chardonnay. 

So be prepared to encounter wines with fanciful proprietary names derived from the planets, the stars, children, family pets, nicknames, whatever. 

Moving on, I finally visited a new winery unknown to me but one I drove by several times: Emerve.

Many of the new wineries are locally owned and started by home winemakers or by cellar workers moving on after apprenticing at one of the big wineries. That door opened In 2004-2005 when Hugo D’Acosta who studied at Montpellier, France, and the Agrarian University of Turin, Italy, organized La Escuelita, a school teaching local farmers and families the fundamentals of winemaking and cellar procedures. The school also functions today as a cooperative, providing the necessary equipment to growers and future winemakers to make wine. 

Today, Emerve, which was one of those wineries,  draws from 18 ha and produces around 5,000 cases a year. In addition to a lovely Rose of Cabernet, Emerve is best known for its proprietary blends. “Isabella” brings together Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Viognier mentioned earlier. There’s a red Bordeaux named “Los Nietos” and another red blend, “Armonia de Tintos,” a blend of Merlot, Cabernet, Syrah and Cabernet Franc. That cuvee was aged for 8 months in a combination of French and Hungarian oak.  It is much more than a simple red. And just for a little variation there’s a 100% Shiraz that’s bottle aged for 5 years before its release.

#3 Takeaway

While the top 3 wineries of Cetto, Santo Thomas, and Bodegas Pedro Domecq produce 80% of wines from Guadalupe Valley, there are 100 or more small family owned businesses offering a wide variety of high quality wines. And the wines are often unique.

Next up in my learning journey, Casta de Vinos

Whether it was sheer luck or fate, my visit to Casta was truly eye opening. Opened in 2010, Casta is an authentic mom & Pop family winery with Sergio Castañeda as owner/winemaker and Claudia, his wife, as director. With an annual output of 4,500 cases, Casta makes 12 wines, 10 red. The 2018 “Domina,” a 100% Merlot exudes charm in an elegant style, and the 2019 “Cirio,” a Cabernet Sauvignon and Mourvedre blend is big with multi- layered flavors. “Casta Tinta, “ a Bordeaux blend, could easily be mistaken for a young Medoc. Another amazing accomplishment, the 2020 Syrah is heavenly and stylishly refined for a young Syrah. I also liked the Petit Verdot. Clearly, the winemaking is top notch and shows a subtle use of small oak and tannin management that makes this one a genuine superstar.

#4 Takeaway

Not only are there many new wineries, Guadalupe is a paradise for anyone who loves to explore and discover previously unknown wineries. Or one that opened the week earlier.

Tuscany also has a strong foothold here thanks to the Paoloni family.  Born in Tuscany, Paolo Paoloni left his post as an Enologist at the Perugia University to manage the Valle Redondo wine company in Aguascalientes, Mexico. After several years with Valle Redondo, Paoloni purchased 38 hectares in the Toros Pintos section of the Valle de Guadalupe. 

If anyone doubts the uniqueness of Guadalupe, well the wines that were presented at the Paoloni/Villa Montefiori winery will erase all doubts.  First came the dramatic 2020 “Ross del Valle” made from 100% Montepulciano with amazing concentration. It is the first mono-Montepulciano from Mexico. Even more exciting was the 2019 Nebbiolo, a dark colored, deeply flavored version, aged for 15 months in French oak. Then the house speciality is Nero d’Avola, and the 2018 aged 12 months in oak is stunning for its depth and layers of flavors.

#5 Takeaway

Located on a steep hillside, Paoloni’s vineyards look beautifully maintained, indicating that grape growing here is as good as anywhere. Overall, the yields work out to be slim by Napa’s standards, estimated as between 1.2 to 2 tons per acre. With little water available, irrigation is not excessive with many vines being dry farmed.

 I heard during my visit  and have also read that farming practices are moving toward sustainability and organic methods.  Carrodilla is said to be the first certified organic and biodynamic vineyard in Mexico. More recently, Santos Brujos which makes a lovely Tempranillo has earned its stars as a certified biodynamic vineyard. 

So, I’ll stop here after noting that despite what you may be thinking, Guadalupe Valley wines are showing up in more and more US markets. That was reinforced a few weeks ago when looking over the shelves of Desert Wine, a small retailer in Palm Desert, there were several Paoloni wines and a few others.  

Thankfully, in 2024 you might not have to travel along those bad dirt roads to explore Guadalupe Valley wines. Check out  the list of wineries available and which states they are sold in at La Competencia Imports in Napa, Same goes for Tozi Imports on the East Coast, Nossa Imports in Arizona and Beso imports in Washington. LMA imports in San Diego specializes in wholesale to restaurants. 

And one more thing about those rough, unpaved roads: don’t expect any improvements soon. Arguing that bad roads attract good tourists and good roads will appeal to the loud, rude, sloppy wine drinkers who will ruin the character of the Valley, a powerful resistance group has been organized to control growth.

In other words, they don’t want Guadalupe to become the “next Napa Valley,”

Special Spring Sales Alert

A truly exciting winery is having a sale now until this Sunday.

You can buy wines at prices that are normally “members only” so you can first select some exciting wines to sample. And then also through these wines, consider joining the club.

And THE winery is: Tooth & Nail Winery

www.toothandnailwine.com

Based in Paso Robles, this oddly named winery offers several types of wines under 4 different brand names:

Tooth & Nail: Creative, unconventional wines with unusual names and stunning labels. For example, “The Fragrant Snare” brings together Chardonnay, Albarino, and Viognier.

Amor Fati: Syrah, Grenache, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, all from cool climates.

For me, these 4 were love at first taste. All scored 92 points or higher. See reviews at 

http://www.winereviewonline.com

 Stasis: Pinot Noir from Santa Maria and a Viognier. Both excellent.

Destinata: Drink now, no fanfare Chenin Blanc, Riesling, and Syrah. All good. All fun. Especially the drink-now style Syrah. The dry Riesling and Chenin will surprise you.

Bundles: special packages at 20% off prices. 

There’s a Pure Bliss” bundle and a” Once in A Lifetime” bundle you should check out.

BTW: the labels are so artsy, so creative, and so collectible!

You can see my wine reviews at winereviewonline.com and better understand my enthusiasm.

Who’s Behind these Wines?

Rob Murray is the owner. After making Rabble Wine a raving success, he sold it to start Tooth & Nail. With Rabble, he was the first to use augmented reality technology in wine labeling, thereby injecting a sense of movement and play onto a bottle of wine. When it comes to label artwork and design, he is far ahead of everyone.

Winemaker Jeremy Leffert’s motto is: “Pour now. Live for today.” He has a degree in Environmental Science and later studied at Cal Poly. At Tooth & Nail, Jeremy leans toward the philosophical and is ever alert to avoid “the dominance of the winemaker’s hand.” With that in mind, he views himself as a shepherd as much as a maker.

Wait! A winemaker without a BIG ego? Not puffed up about high scores, not an icon or living legend? Just a highly skilled professional.

As a wine club, Tooth & Nail not only meets but nails it by exceeding my 4 very demanding standards:

1.High quality wines

2. Wide variety of wines, unusual wines, and wines at all price points

3. Membership has real value, VIP, being part of cutting edge thinking, something trending

4. Fun

Well, the “fun” requirement eliminates about 90% of all winery wine clubs, the snobby places with way over the top prices.

Also those wineries where members feel pressure to buy or else get dropped. And those with the weekend traffic and the crowds? 

So  hello Paso Robles, the home to high quality wineries owned by crazy, gifted, fun loving, creative, enthusiastic and, well, nice people.

And one more major thing, this winery is within reach of TinCity, home to dozens of other wineries, a few artisan breweries, and a food vendor or two. Yes, part of a wine destination!!

El Dorado Wines: Checking All the Terroir Boxes

El Dorado wines: A Case Study in Terroir

In 1988, Steve Edmunds, one of the original Rhone Rangers, was looking for new sources of Mourvedre and Syrah for his Edmunds St. John winery. He was referred to Richard Bush, owner of El Dorado County’s pioneering Madrona Vineyards, who introduced him to a nearby grower. And soon Edmunds St. John was making an El Dorado Syrah. It was and remains one of the finest. More recently, his Edmunds St. John Gamay from El Dorado is a beauty.

Steve, who was responsible for the clever Rhone Ranger designation, summarized his experiences: “ Over the years the Barsotti Vineyard in El Dorado planted, at my request, or urging/suggestion: Syrah, Grenache, Gamay, Mourvedre, Vermentino, Grenache Blanc, Pinot Gris, Cabernet Franc. Each has performed admirably, and in some cases, spectacularly.”

That’s certainly high praise and in fact from my recent experience, a great case can be made that El Dorado, still a well kept secret, may be the mother lode of terroir driven wines. Well, at least it checks most of the boxes. 

Unusual location? Check. It is one of the few U.S. appellations defined entirely by elevation, which ranges from 1,200ft-3,500ft. The region’s elevation and proximity to the alpine terrain of the Sierra Nevada Mountain strongly influences the grapes and wine.  

Special soils? Check. The majority of the vineyards in El Dorado are planted in young volcanic, granitic, and slate soils. The soils are thin and lack a permanent water table allowing growers to control the availability of water during the growing season. Vine roots extend deep below the surface which many experts feel is a key to terroir. 

Different growing conditions? Check. Budbreak is 2-4 weeks later than Coastal regions. Heat spikes are rare. Vines enjoy longer daylight hours. Harvest is under cool conditions in late September into October.

High quality wines? Check. But El Dorado remains under the radar for now. But not for long.

Now with over 80 varieties being cultivated, there’s much more than Zinfandel in these ther hills. In recent years, winemakers looking for special wine have discovered El Dorado. A few like Marco Capelli, long time Swanson winemaker, and Joe Norman from Heitz Cellars have settled in. Recently, more and more  outsiders like Helen Keplinger, Donkey & Goat, Jolie-Laide, Belong Wine, Tank Garage Winery, Rombauer for Zinfandel and Edmunds St. John, to name only a few, regularly source El Dorado varieties that offer something not found in their home area. 

A Little Background

Gold was discovered in 1848 and those old mining towns later remained alive as vineyards caught on and grew to over 2,000 acres. Then Prohibition came along. Vineyards were abandoned and its wine history buried. 

El Dorado, 40 miles or so east of Sacramento and within driving range of Lake Tahoe and Reno, remained flatlined during the 1960s when California wine was re-born.  It started its comeback In 1972 when Boeger Winery became the first modern-day winery in the El Dorado AVA. Greg Boeger became a pioneer by experimenting with lesser known varieties such as Barbera, Carignane, Refosco, Charbono, and Aglianico, just to name a few of the over thirty varietals that the winery grows today.

 In 1980 Madrona Vineyards settled in to offer several El Dorado grown wines, including remarkable vintages of Riesling and Gewurztraminer. Today Maggie and Paul Bush, the second generation, continue with their winery’s outstanding Rieslings, but now cultivate 25 varieties at their 3,000 foot elevation vineyards.

Setting the Gold Standard Today for Terroir Wines

As the region slowly came back to life, these pioneers set the tone for taking the less traveled road. Both remain family owned, and today Barbera is Boeger’s flagship wine and it sets the bar high for first rate Barbera. Meanwhile, Madrona offers a Grenache and Syrah that are at the top of their class. With their help, the El Dorado A.V.A. was established in 1983 and has since grown to encompass over 2,000 acres of grapes and is now home to over 70 wineries.

Attracting mavericks making wines from unsung or obscure varieties at high elevation sites in a remote corner of California is only a part of the El Dorado story. But If you seek out wineries that are specialists and happen to love Rhone wines, then a newcomer, Holly Hill’s Vineyard, merits your full attention. Within its full range of Rhones, this winery is going all out to explore Mourvedre. Right now, Holly Hill’s offers six wines made entirely or in part from Mourvedre, including a Vin Doux dessert wine. The real attention getter is its 2020 “Patriarche,” a GSM blend that is 41% Mourvedre.

However, in my review of El Dorado, the most important box checked is high quality, distinct wines. When tasting through a selection of El Dorado wines, I kept noting the balance, solid structure, and concentration. The varietal wines came across as ideal benchmark wines. Boeger’s Barbera, Miaflores Malbec, Lava Cap’s Cabernet Sauvignon, Madrona’s Grenache,  Element 79’s Syrah, and Cedarville’s Viognier…all true to type, unmanipulated wines loaded with old fashion varietal character.

With El Dorado, I rediscovered wines that, well, taste like wine. Powerful, but well-mannered. Wines that are not trophy culty wines but rather beg to be enjoyed with food. 

Regarding the uniqueness of El Dorado wines, several winemakers suggest that the mountain elevations result in Increased exposure to UV radiation which leads to lower berry size, and a higher ratio of skin to juice in red wine. “This combination of hours and intensity of sunshine leads to ripening conditions unique to El Dorado, and are critical in shaping the character of the wine.”

Paul Bush of Madrona draws from his family’s 40 years of experience and sees the soils as another key. He explains,  “The Aiken Clay soil  is a volcanic decomposition soil that is relatively fertile and drains beautifully. This soil series for us has a pH level of between 5.7 to 6.2. My understanding is that high pH soils give more mouthfeel. Low pH soils give more elegance and varietal focus. And since we have the sun, we generally already have the tool for working with mouthfeel. I’ll take elegance and varietal focus.”

And he continues: “But once we get into fall, the days shorten, our temperatures are often cooler than other regions during the day, but our nights aren’t so cool that the vines shut down. All in all, it’s perfect (in my humble opinion).”

Whatever the underlying factors may be, El Dorado wines have, in my not so humble opinion, their own distinct and engaging personality.  

Current Wines: All Terroir Driven

2020 Holly’s Hill Vineyards El Dorado “Patriarche” $38

 For its GSM Châteauneuf-du-Pape rendition, the winery makes Mourvedre the lead with 41% followed by Syrah at 38%, with 11% Grenache and 10% Cournoise. And the winemaker is said to get first dibs on each to assemble this blend. The wine is aged for 10 months in neutral French oak. Well, this wine is enormously appealing with lots of spice, cranberry, black pepper and savory flavors. Medium full bodied, it has a solid core of ripe fruit that is vibrant and persistent. It unfolds with each sip, showing a slight earthiness and smooth tannin. It is

much more complex and refined than most GSM wines. 95 points

2020 Cedarville Vineyards El Dorado Estate Bottled Viognier  $25

Offering a mix of wines, Cedarville organically farms 15 acres and was the first to plant Viognier in the area. With twenty vintages now under its belt and working with Viognier on the coldest, north facing site,  it has learned to harvest on the earlier side of ripeness. And the end result is a distinct, and full bodied style. The primary fermentation is finished in barrels and with lees stirring, the wine is bottled unfiltered.  In the glass it shows a bright, light yellow color and its aroma displays meyer lemon, lemon zest and lychee nut along with a floral note. But on the palate, this is full throttle with round, mouth filling pear & citrus flavors that are lively yet viscous. And it surprises with its lovely rich texture and  a slight fresh lime and acid tingle in the finish. 92 points

2019 Boeger Winery El Dorado Estate Barbera 2019 $30

From the pioneering winery, Barbera is made in several versions with the Estate being the standard bearer.

From 3 high elevation sites, the Barbera is harvested as late as mid-October, and is blended with 9% Cabernet. Aged for 14 months in neutral French and American oak, it is a big mouthful of a wine that has an amazing structure and somehow remains vibrant and refreshing.  With a little airing, it displays the lovely blackcurrant, dark berry and spice side of Barbera with nicely layered flavors that are surrounded by fine grained tannins.  It can be aged for many years, but I found it appealing now with its solid core of fruit and rich texture. 94 points

2020 Edio Vineyards at Delfino Farms Estate “Robyn’s Blend,” El Dorado  $32

Highly regarded for their apple orchards and bakery, the Delfino family have been farming in El Dorado for 60 years. After studying at Cal Poly and gaining wine experience in San Luis Obispo, the third Delfino generation (2 brothers and a sister) planted vines in 2007 and named the winery after their grandfather, Edio. In 2017 they ventured into winemaking, and based upon this wine, they are super talented and Edio could well be a rising star. Robyn’s blend is 75% Viognier and 25% Roussanne, co-fermented in barrels and aged in French oak (10% new) for 5 months. It has a lovely aroma of fresh sliced pear and honeysuckle, and its flavors pick up a touch of peach, citrus and oak spice. Smooth and viscous, it has a good touch of acidity to keep it lively right through the aftertaste. Holds up well to chilling 93 points

2017 Element 79 Vineyards Fair Play, El Dorado County Syrah $40

As some of you may recall from your high school chem class (and to save others from embarrassment) element 79 is gold. In 2016 Les and Sharon Heinsen purchased property and an established 32 acre vineyard in El Dorado County. The 2017 vintage was a few weeks early with the Syrah picked on October 5th. Consulting winemaker Scott Johnson harvested some Viognier on the same day and the field blend was fermented in open top tanks. With 2% Viognier, the wine was aged for 20 months in French oak, 44% new. Dark in color with beautiful upfront black fruit aromas of blueberry and plum and, with some airing, a hint of lavender pokes through. It is silky smooth in texture and the flavors expand to showcase berry, dried herbs and spice with refined tannins in the finish. Despite the declared alcohol of 14.5%  it comes across as youthful, vibrant and charming. It should develop even more complexity with short-term cellaring. 94 points

2019 Starfield Vineyards El Dorado, Cinsaut  $32

Seldom bottled as a varietal, Cinsaut, also spelled Cinsault, is more often found in a Rose. It is used as a blender for red wines in the Rhone and elsewhere. But Starfield and several neighbors in El Dorado are giving it a fresh look on its own. From its 31 acre vineyard, Starfield produces several Rhone wines as well as others in its “Mountain Mediterraneans” program.  Fresh picked strawberry and cranberry juice dominate the expansive aroma in this medium light-bodied red. Without any noticeable tannin, iit really turns on the charm as its lively flavors expand across the midpalate with fresh berry and spice and red fruit that all persist well into the aftertaste. More than a summer sipper, this is a versatile food companion. And delicious. 91 points

2019 Holly’s Hill Vineyards El Dorado Fenaughty Old Vines Syrah  $27

This new Rhone-centric winery is on a hot streak, especially with Mourvedre and Syrah. This old vine Syrah is concentrated and focused. Dark garnet, almost black in color, it displays spicy, earthy, some leathery aromatics along with black olive. On the palate it is dense, with savory ripe black fruits and dried herbs with a hint of pepper, all with light tannin as a backdrop. But everything is under control and the wine opens up beautifully over time. Give it at least a year or two, and you’ll be thrilled. 93 points

For more specific wines, see all the El Dorado reviews at winereviewonline.com 

 

 

The Rogue Valley’s Diverse Wines

Exploring the Diverse Wines of the Rogue Valley 

Seeking out unusual wine regions for their great diversity seems to be high on the must-do lists for today’s sommeliers. At least, the hard working SOMMS.  Makes sense because discovering new wines and/new regions pretty much validates their jobs. Recently the head of sommselect.com singled out the Santa Cruz Mountains AVA for its success with Pinot Noir and Syrah among others. He ended by praising Santa Cruz as “one of the few regions anywhere in the world hospitable to such a diverse range of varieties.” 

Really? Now that “diverse range of varieties” phrase struck a chord. Coincidentally over the last 2 years, I’ve been interested in the same subject.  Well, as much as I enjoy wines from Santa Cruz, there are other regions working with a far wider range of varieties that make Santa Cruz seem normal. 

Santa Clara County, for example, has all of the mainstays, all of the Rhones, and, thanks to Guglielmo,  some unusual Italian varieties. An even wider range of varieties was encountered during my visit to the Okanagan Valley. Not just a few remaining hybrids, but there’s an exciting diversity there including many obscure vinifera grapes like Chasselas and Pinot Auxerrois, both made into impressive wines.

What also ties these two regions together is neither has what could be called a signature wine. A wine that consumers automatically equate with that place, like Napa Cabs or Amador Zins.

So this lack of a signature wine leads us to another region where winemakers actually seem to enjoy working with a diverse range of varieties: the Rogue Valley in Southern Oregon. Because it has so little in common with the Willamette Valley, winemakers get a little touchy if you refer to it as “The other Oregon” wine region. 

Yes, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay are grown here, but so too are Cabernet, Zinfandel along with Spanish, Italian, and the full range of French grapes. And one or two Portuguese.

How Do you Define Diverse?

 In the Rogue Valley, it is common to grow a dozen or more varieties within a small estate. Established in 2004, Quady North has 15 acres under vine and grows 12 different varieties. Most are Rhone grapes, but it also farms Cabernet and Cabernet Franc. On its 40 acre estate vineyards, Schmidt Family Vineyards in Applegate Valley grows 14 varieties, and produces 6,700 cases a year. It also makes 25 different wines in a given year.

Its neighbor, Wooldridge Creek, one of the oldest wineries, has 56 acres planted to twelve varieties: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Syrah, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Viognier, Sangiovese, Zinfandel, Malbec, Petit Verdot and Tempranillo. And a similar wild assortment is seen in many, many other wineries across the entire Rogue Valley. The Weisinger Family, on the eastern edge in Ashland is said to specialize in Tempranillo, Pinot Noir, Rhone and Bordeaux varietals, as well as proprietary blends. Quite diverse for a 3,000 case annual output.

But are these wineries growing a dozen or more varieties like the proverbial jack of all trades, master of none? It seems crazy for small vineyards to grow grapes from Bordeaux and Burgundy, along with the Rhones. Then add a few from Spain and Italy and it seems way beyond normal. 

At Belle Fiore Winery, where 56 acres are planted to such a wide mix which includes many unusual Italian varieties, the owners have identified what they call “16 micro-blocks” based upon soil types and elevation. Two-Hawks’ winemaker, Kiley Evans, has singled out several blocks based on soil types led by a Darow Series of wine grown in one predominant soil. So the soils and sites are indeed diverse.

NOT THE WILLAMETTE VALLEY

Taking its name from the Rogue River, the Rogue Valley wine region wears that rogue title well. Approved as an AVA in 1991, the Rogue Valley is the southernmost growing wine region of Oregon and the Valley is 70 miles wide by 60 miles long. The area runs from Ashland in the southeast through the north and south sides of Medford and stretches to Grants Pass in the west. 

Today, this high elevation (1,000-2,300 foot level) generally mountainous growing area is home to 100 wineries. While most of these wineries started after 2000, the Rogue Valley is Oregon’s oldest wine region, with first vineyards planted in the 1850s. And it is home to the State’s first operating winery opened in 1873. 

Vineyards have been expanding recently and now cover around 5,000 acres, growing no fewer than 70 varieties. Yes, from Albarino to Zinfandel, the roster includes the obligatory Chardonnay and Cabernet and, no surprise, Pinot Noir. But with vineyards planted at different elevations with different aspects, the Rogue is no Willamette.

Because most of today’s vineyards were developed after 2000, many wines, Rhones, Spanish, or Italian, are likely made from relatively new vines. Typically, vineyards are densely planted and organically grown with “sustainable” a popular theme.

Dancin is one of a handful on wineries making a Pinot Noir, but as owner Dan Marca explains,

“ Our site was created for Pinot Noir and Chardonnay with its north, northeast facing aspect, 1800 foot average elevation and shade occurring beginning at 5:45pm (depending on the Block) throughout the growing season. We are finding that we can produce delicious Pinot Noir with great flavors and balance at alcohol levels in the mid to upper 12’s to the very low 13’s. Our wide diurnal swings allow for flavors and ripeness to occur during the day with acids retained during the overnight hours. We can see daytime highs to overnight lows vary by 40 degrees!” 

And he adds that the same Pinot Noir clones ripen later at his site than they do in McMinnville or Dundee.

Dancin’s vineyards are in the mid-section of the Rogue Valley, just outside Jacksonville. Far to the west is the The Applegate Valley AVA which was established in 2000 as a sub-region within the Rogue. With over 700 acres under vine, the Applegate Valley “has a warm-summer Mediterranean climate, like much of coastal California. However, it has four very distinct seasons, a relatively short growing season, and fog is not a factor. Winter is cold, with occasional snow. That allows the vines to go into full hibernation. Half of the area’s annual 20-30” of precipitation arrives in winter.”

Because the growing season is on the short side and features cold nights and wide diurnal swings, the Applegate Valley AVA is best-suited to  grapes which ripen quickly or are pleasing at low levels of ripeness. Here, veteran viticulturist Herb Quady who manages many vineyards in addition to his own for Quady North, is a strong advocate of Rhone varieties. He is joined by the founders of Cowhorn Vineyard who planted 25 acres to the Rhones.  He explained his choice this way:“While our latitude is a bit lower than the Rhône, and our growing season is shorter, other qualities are similar, especially to Châteauneuf-du-Pape: river-side bench-land with little rain, hot summers, and rocky soils that don’t hold much water.”

But even in this corner, the Rogue Valley is not the exclusive Rhone Zone. A few miles away from Cowhorn, Red Lily Vineyards has emphasized Tempranillo planted along benchlands of the Applegate River and has vines located on three distinct sites.  Winemaker/owner Rachael Martin tells us her “newest vineyard site planted to Tempranillo “has a predominantly northern aspect on a varying slope surrounding a knoll, and sits at an average elevation of 1500 feet.” And another vineyard site “has a predominantly western aspect on a 12% average slope that rises to an elevation of 1630 feet.” She makes Tempranillo in three styles, including a Rose.

As specialists, Dancin and Red Lily are rare in this region where it is more common to grow a dozen or more varieties within an estate.  But, looking closer, Dancin makes 4 distinct Chardonnays, 4 Pinots from different blocks or different clones. It also makes a Syrah and a Barbera. Its kindred spirit near Ashland is Irvine & Robert Vineyards. Also specializing in Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, it typically bottles 3 of each varietal, all small batches identified by clone or vineyard block. And, no surprise, makes a rare Pinot Meunier.

However they go about it, Rogue Valley winemakers are making most wines in small batches based upon some unique condition, be it soil, micro-climate, clone, or block by block. 

And this is how I read the situation after talking to winemakers at Peter William, Weisinger, 2-Hawk, Quady North, Goldback, and Schmidt Family: winemakers revel in the diversity. Making a wide variety of small batch wine is what being a winemaker is all about. Hands on winemakers: they can be creative and make decisions that they were trained to do. They dont have to be told what to make and how to make it from the sales team, the bosses, and the market or some focus group.

 But since consumers naturally like to have reliable information and advice, the question of what is the Rogue Valley’s signature wine needs to be addressed. Not long ago, W. Blake Gray writing for winesearcher.com made a case for Malbec as the region’s best. He included wines from the Umpqua Valley but highlighted the Malbecs from Weisinger Family and 2-Hawk. 

Though I share his enthusiasm for those Malbecs, his argument largely based upon grape prices failed to convince Malbec is it. On my first few visits,  I thought the star was Syrah, but then I tasted a stunning Grenache from 2-Hawk, a beautiful Viognier from Quady North, Cabernet Franc from several wineries, and more recently Tempranillo from Peter William Vineyard and others. And then there are creative blends such as Tempranillo and Syrah.

In fact one could easily argue that the standout Rogue Valley wine is Cabernet Franc. While admittedly being on the Cab Franc bandwagon, I draw support from the excellent medium bodied versions made in Applegate by Quady North, Schmidt Family, and Wooldridge Cellars and then head south east to Ashland and add Cab Francs from Belle Fiore and Weisinger Family. Here’s a tip: when released in the Spring of ‘22, Weisinger’s 2019 Cabernet Franc will rank as one of the best made in the West Coast. 

Tempranillo, the third most widely planted variety in the world, has not yet established a beachhead anywhere in the USA. Given the Spanish heritage, that’s odd.  But there’s more new acreage being developed in the Rogue Valley.  Today, close to 100 wineries offer one in their tasting room. 

 

Winemakers, Not Rock Stars

Giving the great diversity of varieties that can be successfully grown, the Rogue Valley is attracting young, creative winemakers. Goldback is a new winery launched in 2016 by Andy Myer. In an interview, he explains: 

“Wine had always been of some interest to me, but the big moment happened after I moved to Oregon from Pennsylvania in 2006.  I was transferring to Willamette University in Salem and was looking for a summer job.  I answered a craigslist ad for a tasting room job for the summer, which just happened to be for Cristom Vineyards.  Within 15 minutes of driving up the driveway for the interview, a lightning bolt struck.  I knew that working in wine was what I wanted to do for the rest of my life.”

From there, he gained experience by working at William Selyem and Hirsh in Sonoma, Felton Road in New Zealand, back up to Wahington at Mark Ryan and then to Cape Mentelle in Western Australia.

From these experiences, he came to favor “a minimalist approach to winemaking and aims to preserve natural acidity in whites and tannin integration in reds.” After wandering the wine globe, his search for a region took him to the Rogue Valley. 

The region’s diversity fits in perfectly with Myer’s view of wine:

“Wine itself is irreducibly complex.  The fact that you could spend your entire life working one piece of land with one type of grape and never quite figure it all out, because there are thousands of variables every year in growing grapes, and about the same in making wine.  That it’s impossible to make the same wine twice… and that every vintage everywhere is completely different.”  

For detailed reviews of Goldback and other Rogue Valley wineries, see my reviews at

winereviewonline.com 

WALLA WALLA: Recent Notes & Updates

Walla Walla is unusual in many, many ways. First it is a rare AVA falling within two states, Washington and Oregon. About 60% is within Washington. Defined by the Blue Mountains to the southeast, the Palouse to the north, and the Columbia River to the west, Walla Walla is said to be the size of Napa but contains only 3,000 vineyard acres. 

But, for surprise #2,  there now are about 120 wineries calling Walla Walla home. Nothing much happened vineyard-wise after Repeal as the region expanded its orchards and wheat growing. Then In 1974, Gary Figgins planted a small vineyard and by 1978 his Leonetti Cellars was the first new winery. Figgins who was interested in Italian reds like Sangiovese made a 1978 Cabernet that by the early 1980s won so many awards and earned so many high ratings that it was being talked about as a cult wine. Walla Walla had awakened with a bang.

As its reputation spread, Figgins responded to his new found success and high demand by announcing release dates for subsequent vintages. The wines sold out quickly over a weekend in May.

Leonetti’s success, it is fair to say, kick-started Walla Walla as a special wine region which until then was better known for its onions, apples, and wheat. Selling wine to visitors from out of town caught the attention of Marty Clubb, who founded the nearby family winery, L’Ecole No 41 in 1984. Clubb was soon offering his attention-getting Merlot, Semillon and Cabernet on the same day Leonetti scheduled its open house. Not surprising, there were traffic jams caused by wine lovers coming from Portland and Seattle.  Adding to the evolving wine scene, Rick Small who planted a vineyard in the late 70s converted a machine shop into a winery in 1981. His Woodward Canyon Winery was yet another reason to hit the road to Walla Walla.

To be frank, Walla Walla is in the proverbial middle of nowhere. Portland is 250 miles west, Seattle around 275 miles away, and otherwise, nothing but farmlands and magnificent rock formations. The area is beautiful and the town of Walla Walla with its brick buildings is absolutely charming, home to Whitman College and more bike trails than you thought existed.

My first visit to Walla Walla was in 1996 and during that time I was welcomed by the owners of Leonetti, L’Ecole, and Woodward Canyon. Two wineries had tasting rooms downtown, Seven Hills and Canoe Ridge. My hosts were the owners of a new vineyard named Pepper Bridge who were at the time also major apple growers shipping their product worldwide. All three wineries remain family owned and Pepper Bridge, owned by Ginnie and Norm McKibben, is now both a winery and a major grower selling to dozens of  wineries.

But to return to my list of what makes Walla Walla unusual, #3 is the fact that in the little town there are presently 32 winery tasting rooms open to the public and to wine club members. That’s almost a third which is amazing. As I was packing up to leave on the most recent trip, a local stopped to ask what I thought of Walla Walla. After mentioning I first visited years ago, she noted,  “Yes, the wineries saved the town and brought it back to life.”

But what really sets Walla Walla apart from most AVA is that 95% of the grapes grown are red. Cabernet, Merlot and Syrah combine for 70% of the total. On the Oregon side, The Rocks District sub-appellation, approved in 2015 and known for its distinctive gravel, cobblestone soil,  Syrah edges out Cabernet and Merlot is a distant third.

While it is fairly clear that Syrah is the rockstar of The Rocks, Cabernet faces some stiff competition from Merlot and Bordeaux blends as the signature wine of Walla Walla Valley. And Syrah is gaining some steam with new wineries like Valdemar Estate raising the bar. 

From the revisit, I left with the belief that Walla Walla is just gaining momentum and is on track to become a leading voice for many red wines. Currently, there are excellent Cabs and Merlots but it is easy to get excited about the Bordeaux blends, especially those with a good dose of Cabernet Franc. 

5 Best Representatives: All have wine clubs

Northstar Winery “Red Blend,” Walla Walla Valley 2016 $60

Pepper Bridge Winery Merlot, Walla Walla Valley 2018 $55

Amavi Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon, Walla Walla Valley 2018 $36.00

Valdemar Estate Syrah, Walla Walla Valley  2019 $65

Saviah Cellars 2018 Cabernet Franc Walla Walla Valley, 2018 $35

Merlot

L’Ecole No 41 remains a leader with both its regular and Estate Merlot. Northstar has 14 acres planted to Merlot but uses the Columbia Valley AVA.  Northstar’s 2013 Merlot, with 23% Cabernet, is a gorgeous, concentrated berry-infused, lightly oaked version for $41. Northstar’s limited production 2017 Premier Merlot, is as big and beautiful as Merlot gets. Loaded with flavors, It only needs cellaring. The retail price is $100.

Pepper Bridge Winery Merlot, Walla Walla Valley 2018 $55

With 13% Cab Franc, this Merlot made from Seven Hills and the estate vineyard, this is a perfect example of what Walla Walla offers. It displays ripe cherry, raspberry and light herbal aromas with a touch of oak spice. On the palace it is medium-full bodied with ripe fruit, an earthy streak and good acidity to accompany the tannins. Concentrated, textured, and balanced, it begs to be cellared 3-5 years. While owning both Pepper Bridge and Seven Hills Vineyard, the winery produces only 8,000 cases a year. Dozens of wineries buy grapes from Pepper Bridge, including Leonetti which bottles a vineyard designated Cabernet. All Pepper Bridge wines were excellent. One reason why the winery is not better known is that it sells almost all direct to wine club members. But if there were one club I would join , this would be it.

Cabernet Sauvignon

A recent taste of a 2002 Leonetti Cabernet confirmed that this winery remains in the forefront with its signature balance and longevity. Woodward Canyon with its Estate Reserve Cab also remains in top form. The 2016 Northstar Walla Walla Cab ($60) offered beautiful aromas with light tannin and was presented in an attractive elegant style. Offered through its wine club,the 2016 Pepper Bridge Cabernet ($56), blended with the four other Bordeaux grapes, is a classic, ripe, structured version with bright fruit and rich tannin that will drink beautifully for many years.

Amavi Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon, Walla Walla Valley 2018 $36.00

A vintage that was warm in July and threatened by smoke, 2018 turned out to be fine thanks to the ultra-long growing season that is a hallmark of the region. The last Cab was picked in mid-October. Made from 76% Cabernet and equal portions of the usual suspects, it was aged primarily in neutral French oak. With cherry, sweet spices and black currant fruit, it is medium bodied, nicely balanced with hints of anise and dusty tannins. As an estate wine that is sustainably grown, Amavi’s Cabernet has been consistent over recent vintages and is attractively priced. A little over 5,000 cases were made in 2018.

Bordeaux Blends

Here as elsewhere, what to label traditional Bordeaux blends remains a problem. Meritage never caught on as a useful moniker. One of the early proponents of Bordeaux blends in Walla Walla, Reininger which began in 1997 finally decided by the 2017 vintage to label the wine “BDX Red Wine.” A relative newcomer to the scene, Va Piano labeled its attractive blend, “Uniti.”  “Trine” is a name newly adopted for Pepper Bridge’s Bordeaux blend.  “Night Owl” is used by Amaurice Cellars for its red blend.  Oh well, one that stood out was Northstar’s “Red Blend.”

Northstar Winery “Red Blend,” Walla Walla Valley 2016 $60

Northstar’s first vintage was in 1994 and the state-of-the-art winery was built in 2002.

In its earliest years, Northstar was guided by  California’s well-known winemaker, Jed Steele. It is part of the Ste. Michelle portfolio which was recently sold. The 2028 Red Blend is made from 51% Merlot, 47% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 2% Cabernet Franc. The barrel regime consisted of 100% French oak with 38% new barrels for 18 months. It is definitely not shy with wide open aromas of herbs and ripe dark cherries, and is rich and silky smooth on the palate. Beautifully textured, it finishes long with sweet, toasty oak notes. It does throw some sediment, so decanting is recommended.

Another standout Bordeaux blend:

Va Piano Vineyards, Walla Walla Valley “Uniti”, Estate Grown 2018 ($85): 

Born and raised in Walla Walla, winemaker/owner Justin Wylie started Va Piano in 2003.  A year in Florence encouraged the “va piano” name from an Italian proverb that means go slow and take it one step at a time.  For a wide range of red wines led by Cabernet and Syrah, he relies on grapes from his 20-acres in mid-Walla Walla and the high elevation Octave Vineyard on the Oregon side.  A top-of-the line blend, the 2018 Uniti is 30% Cabernet, 30% Cab Franc, 28% Merlot and 12% Malbec.  The winery has a tasting room in Bend.

Syrah

Although I didn’t taste many Syrah on this trip, one caught my attention: 2019 Valdemar Estates from Walla Walla. This new winery is simply amazing! Founded by the 6th generation Bujuda family who also own Bodegas Valdemar in Rioja.  It is both a restaurant, featuring tapas, and a state of the art winery. To date, the investment is said to be well over $10 million. It is run by Jesus Bujuda who attended the University of Washington and fell in love with Walla Walla on a visit. The mantra heard in the tasting room is that “we are here to help put Walla Walla on the international wine map.” An attractive lineup of Rioja wines are also offered in the tasting room and are for sale. The 2012 Conde Valdemar Reserva is delightful for $30 and there’s a selection of older library vintages going back to 1985. As good as the Grenache was, the Walla Walla Syrah was a standout.

Valdemar Estate Syrah, Walla Walla Valley  2019 $65

A little under 200 cases were made, and the fruit was sourced from Stoney Vine Vineyard located south of Walla Walla with its rocky terroir. The Syrah is the old style head-training method for vine management. Blended with 5% Grenache, the wine was aged 16 months in 25% new and 75% 2-year-old, French oak. It’s dark and vibrant, loaded with dark blackberry fruit, anise, and a slight earthy streak. The flavors are ripe and concentrated but are under control with light tannin leading to a balanced finish.

Cabernet Franc:

As another writer finding more to like these days with Cabernet Franc, I was happy to see several wineries offering a varietal version. Saviah’s is a splendid example.

Saviah Cellars, Walla Walla Valley Cabernet Franc 2016 ($35): 

Founded in 2000, Saviah Cellars offers an extremely wide range of limited production wines including the only Barbera from Walla Walla, an attractive Nebbiolo, and this extremely well-made Cabernet Franc.  It was sourced from three vineyards: Watermill Vineyard which is located in The Rocks District, Dugger Creek Vineyard and the Summit View Vineyard.  It is a textbook example of the varietal with aromas of ripe berry, spice, tobacco and anise.  Medium bodied, it has similar flavors with highlights of dried herbs and raspberry fruit.  It has a slightly fleshy palate feel and no rough edges as it finishes long and smooth.

Black Friday Wine Sales: Jumping the Gun

Fittingly, an exciting early Black Friday wine sale comes from one of my favorite recent discoveries: Tooth & Nail from Paso Robles. 

  • service@toothandnailwine.com

The Black Friday deal: 30% off all wines until November 28th

BTW: for a small limited production winery, a 30% discount is a BFD.

Here are my favorites that were reviewed at winereviewonline.com

2020 Destinata by Tooth & Nail, Santa Barbara County Syrah 

When opening a Syrah in a clear bottle, you instinctively brace for something unusual.  Destinata is the latest addition to the Tooth & Nail family, and it represents wines made for present enjoyment without fanfare.  “Inspired by the experience of Beaujolais Nouveau” this cool climate Syrah was made with native yeasts and bottled unfined and unfiltered.  The lush, black fruited aroma is backed by hints of black pepper and the flavors display solid Syrah character throughout.  Smooth and vibrant with good acid balance, it is harmonious from start to finish.  The winemaker’s motto is: “Pour now.  Live for today.”  So, yes, it can be served chilled.    And with the discount, the price is close to $20 a bottle!!  

91 Norm Roby 

2018 Amor Fati, Santa Maria Valley Santa Barbara County Grenache Murmur Vineyard 

 “Wow” is the first impression and the amazement continues as the wine unfolds.  Darker than most, this Grenache displays aromas of ripe dark fruits, spice, and hints of lavender, thyme and earthiness.  Medium-bodied and loaded with lush, dark fruit, currants and spice flavors, it is plush and has soft tannins that bring it to a strong finish.  Powerful, but not over-done with oak in the background, it should age well for 4 to 5 years, but it is lovely now.  This cool-climate Grenache is easily one of the top five I’ve ever tasted.      

97 Norm Roby 

2018 Amor Fati, Santa Maria Valley (Santa Barbara County, California) Syrah Murmur Vineyard 

From the same vineyard used for the winery’s Grenache, this is exciting cool-climate Syrah.  Amor Fati, which means “love of one’s fate,” is made by the Tooth & Nail Wine Co. based in Paso Robles.  For their Syrah, they source fruit from the Murmur Vineyard, which is located about 12 miles from the Pacific.  Minimally handled, the wine was aged for 18 months in French oak, 30% of it new.  Dark, opaque in color, it is a concentrated, brooding wine that needs time to unfold.  With aeration, it displays deep blackberry and black pepper fragrances with some olive and earthiness in the background.  Medium full, but no monster, it is well-balanced, with secondary flavors of tobacco and plum.  Needs time to unwind, but has all the right stuff.     

94 Norm Roby 

Love Paso Robles Cabernet? Of course you do.

Well, this following wine could be the best deal of all Paso Cabs for less than $20:

2020 Tooth & Nail Cabernet Sauvignon, Paso Robles

Don’t delay. Go to the website for the discount code.

You can, as always, thank me later