Going Rogue on the Wine Tasting Trail

 

“Pinch me, pinch me! I must be dreaming.”

A reasonable estimate is that I’ve visited hundreds of wineries over my career. Often with an appointment; most often as a drop in.

I am also compelled to disclose that my favorite play is A Midsummer Night’s Dream. 

You see I may have been under the influence of Puck during a recent visit to a wine country. So if you don’t believe any of what follows, maybe we need to get the Puck out of the conversation.

My first stop also had a good restaurant and superb valley views. Enjoying a small plate of delicious mushrooms, I sample 3 Pinot Noirs, all good with different personalities. Make that really good. Wandering inside the tasting room, I’m offered a bright, lovely Chardonnay, followed by a magnificent Pinot Noir from 7 clones, and then end with a stunning Cornas-tasting Syrah.

Turns out the well-informed tasting room guy was the owner. “Only in your dreams” you are probably saying.

Or, maybe you are curious about those mushrooms.

Next stop, a few miles away, A small winery focusing on Spanish varieties. Wait! Spanish. I definitely must be dreaming. We start with the 2017 Verdejo…bright and lively with crisp citrus flavors. Who in their right mind would make a Verdejo?

Well, it was followed by a Rose, mostly Tempranillo with Grenache and Graciano blended. In a word,”Lovely.” Next were two Tempranillos, the first with 19% Cabernet and the second, 100% Tempranillo. Well, both were excellent, beautifully made versions, one to drink now, the other to age.

After some polite chit-chat, we figure out the woman talking about the wines is the winemaker, the woman pouring, her sister. They are the owners. 

The tasting fee was waived.

Third winery was a distance away but on the other end of the pretty valley. A valley with vineyards on steep hillsides and a year-round river. Not knowing what to expect, my eyes immediately go to the manicured grounds and picnic area set up for concerts and /or weddings. We walked through the brilliant flower garden which is adjacent to the herb garden. Inside, the tasting room doubles as a restaurant. The outdoor tasting bar overlooks the picnic area and vistas. Families are picnicing; kids are playing.

We begin with a spicy, minerally Pinot Gris followed by a Viognier, ripe, rich, and powerful. Next up is a blend of 75% Viognier with 25% Chardonnay, which is more subtle, more complex, more complete. The wine is named “Amuse” and although when in a waking state I’m suspicious of wines with cutesy names, I’m in love. (Damn you, Puck!)

This dream was sure to end with a glass of 2014 Barbera plunked down before me. Nobody ever thinks of a sturdy, plummy, herbal, Barbera with definite acidity today. Unless it is complementing my last piece of pizza.

 Perfect match!

Better yet, a 2016 50-50 blend of Syrah and Cabernet was so appealing with a touch of leather with black cherry fruit and great structure, that I decided to buy a few bottles before I depart. 

That’s the big clue.

Now you too must suspect this has to be a dream because when would a wine writer ever buy a wine?

Or was it? 

The wine-cup is the little silver well,
Where truth, if truth there be, doth dwell.

 

4th of July Wine Sales: The Wrap Up

4th of July wine sales were pretty much a dud with over-hyped items being paraded out but with nothing much worth celebrating until….

Along came www.wine.com pitching over 200 wines at 30% off or more.

This is my kind of sale.

Sure, some familiar supermarket wines like Dark Horse were in the pack. But

Overall, the list contains a number of great deals on wines not often seen online.

These caught my eye:

2018 Sobon Estate, Amador Rose, $9.99

2018 Cline, Ancient Vines Mourvedre, $9.99

2016 Panther Creek Pinot Gris, Willamette Valley $15.99

2014 Marques de Murrieta, Rioja Reserva, $19.99

2014 Sanctuary Pinot Noir, Bien Nacido Vineyards, $24.99

Check out the entire list for yourself. There were several other good Pinot Noirs, Riojas and other wines from Willamette Valley.

Those not on a budget could go big with the 2014 Justin Savant, at half-price,$59.99

www.sommselect.com

This site also worked hard over the long weekend. 

A great find was this gem:

2017 Pinot Noir from Big Table Farm. The price is $45 a bottle.

www.wiredforwine.com

Best deal: 2017 Far Niente Chardonnay, $50

Also offers the 2017 Big Farm Table Pinot for $44.97

www.wineexpress.com

The best price for the 2015 Robert Mondavi To Kalon Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve, $134.95

www.wtso.com

The one wine that stood out to me over the weekend:

2018 Sancerre, Jean-Paul Picard, $16.99 

Best June Cellar Clearance Sale

 

Here’s a cellar clearance sale that truly is a fantastic “blow-out sale.”

offered by  http://www.cawineclub.com

With $1 shipping and an extra 20% off clearance sale wines.

Why We Like this Sale:

  • Excellent discounts goes almost without saying
  • Wines are made by real, family-owned wineries, not brands or virtual con jobs
  • Wines are from exciting non-Napa regions, well-worth exploring
  • Several from up and coming star wineries such as
  • Jason-Stephens in Gilroy and Youngberg Hill in Oregon
  • Excellent shipping rates
  • And, the sale is from the California Wine Club, an established club with a proven track record

 

Start With These Three:

Chardonnay lovers will not be disappointed with the 2013 Jason-Stephens Winery from the Central Coast, $14.99 before other discounts. It is lively, delicious and a pefect summer sipper

A Fantastic Rhone blend is from Rabbit Ridge in Paso Robles. A great red for $14.99 before discounts. A classic mix of Grenache, Syrah and Mourvedre.

A perfect, precise Pinot Noir from Oregon comes from the Youngberg Hill Winery, overlooking the Willamette Valley at $38.00 before discount. Both the winery’s view and this Pinot impressed on my last visit.

This sale ends June 14th.

What are you waiting for?

Check out these and other deals

An Amazing Move

 

Today’s best sale, a moving sale, is almost too good to be true. As a lover of real Sauvignon Blanc, not the watery, sweet stuff, and a fan of genuine Dolcetto, I suggest we all move quickly and take advantage of the move.

Go to www.invino.com

Check out these two 10 buck specials:

2016 Beltane Ranch Sauvignon Blanc, Sonoma Valley, $10

2016 Dolcetto d’Alba, La Collina, $10

Priced 60-67% below retail, they are perfect for picnic or BBQ fare….and whatever.

Great opportunity to see why Dolcetto is so popular in Piedmont.

The 2016 Montepulciano could also be a winner.

What are you waiting for?

 

First Great Memorial Weekend Wine Deal

 

The first of many we hope, is a super white wine and a total no-brainer:

2014 Acacia Winery Lake Chardonnay, Carneros  $9.96

Offered by www.garagistewine.com

Acacia’s Winery Lake Chardonnay has been a longtime favorite of those preferring real Chardonnay over the over-oak, manufactured style.  

The story here is that Treasury Wine Estates bought Acacia along with others in 2016. It sold the winery, and now operates Acacia as a brand.

I’m guessing the marketing guys assume this 2014 is getting old and they want to get rid of the inventory.

I’m also guessing they are totally wrong.

This Chardonnay was originally offered in the $30-$35 price range.

It is sad to see a once great name like Acacia heading off into the corporate world.

But, hey, why not take advantage of the corporate thinking and experience what made Acacia famous.

You cant beat the price.

Garagiste.com has been checked out and it is upfront and delivers. It was the first to offer Wind Gap wines at deep discounts.

Stunning Wine from An Unknown Region

 

Here’s one brilliant selection for the truly open-minded and adventurous wine lover, if there are any left.

Sommselect.com is offering a super red wine from one of the world’s most under-appreciated wine region, Roussillon in the south of France. The vineyard is close to the Spanish border in a sub-region known as the Côtes Catalanes.

If you are man enough to try something new, here it is:

2017 Domaine de l’Horizon, “L’ESPRIT DE L’HORIZON”

$39 a bottle, free shipping for 4 or more. Limit 12 bottles per order.

By no coincidence, this wine is from Calce, a high elevation special mountainside vineyard area that neighbors the lone superstar, Domaine Gauby.

I visited Gauby several years ago and came away convinced the $100 bottles of wine were actually a deal. And I’m frugal!

And, for those of you who never thought much of the Carignan grape, you will be, as I was, astonished by the depth and complexity of wines made from old Carignan vines grown in this tiny region.

It is 60% Carignan and 40% Syrah which adds flesh and spice to this exciting 2017 red.

This is definitely NOT one of those over-ripe, fruit bombs that are all jam and usually given inflated 90+ scores by bogus Somms.

Best of all, this is a wine of place, one that demonstrates that terroir is a real concept.

And that is what wine is, or should be, all about.

Check it out at http://www.sommselect.com

Online Wine Shops: The Final Four

Final Four NCAA basketball, Spring Break, and Baseball is Back.

Add Easter weekend, Passover, and we have all kinds of reasons for special sales offers and deals.

We began the season by following 36 candidates, each claiming to have the best deals for members, exclusive offerings of super-duper values, rare wines and great vintages and, of course, the next cult wine.

But we are now down to the 4 teams that have been working the hardest to offer exceptional wines and/or exceptional deals.

www.invino.com

has played extremely well over the last two weeks.

It continues to find new ways to score, locating unusual wines such as the

Vaughn Duffy Pinot and Sauvignon Blanc.

Current exciting offers:

2013 d’Arenberg d’Arry’s Original

Grenache, Shiraz | Australia, $14.99

2017 Sancerre, Laporte, $27.00\

www.sommselect.com

Showing great depth with recent selections of a Hermitage, a Tollot-Beaut Savigny, and a Ribeiro Blanco from Galicia, a ballsy play. Also outstanding  Gigondas but the Bouzy Rouge was odd. Here are examples of an unusual find and a rare culty wine:

2017 Ribeiro Blanco, Galicia $22.00

2016 Coche-Dury’s Meursault “Les Chevalières, $75.00

www.napacabs.com

These folks have truly upped their game recently. A longshot a few months ago, this week it turned heads with several exciting wines. I liked the way it balanced big names and excellent discounts:

2015 Beaulieu Vineyard Private Reserve Cabernet, Napa Valley for $89.99 (regularly $149)

2010 La Colombina Brunello di Montalcino, $29.97

2013 Geyser Peak, Alexander Valley Reserve, $19.97 (60% off)

www.gargistewine.com

Made it into the final four for being so unpredictable but always managing to come up with a surprise play. An excellent Muscadet for under $10 or the 2016 Cos d’Estournel for under $200 may seem unlikely, but this site has them both. I am wildly impressed by the depth of the offerings from the Loire Valley.

Two versatile players:

2018 Bourgueil, Domaine Cotellergie, $16.76

2016 Scott Paul Pinot Noir, Chehelam Mts, $19.71

What about the pre-season favorites and especially www.vivino.com with its 35 millions fans?

That’s a story for another time. 

The Best Online Wine Shop?

So, I have to confess my picks for the Sweet 16 college teams did not fare well. Each one has, alas, gone home.

My game is online wine shopping, and here is my choice for one of the Final Four

http://www.garagistewine.com

garagistewine.com is the most peculiar online retailer I follow. One reason is that its founder Jon Rimmerman who has been offering wines for over 20 years often presents his daily offers late at night.  He is based in Washington State which may explain some things.

He sometimes seems a bit chatty and becomes so excited and enthusiastic that he might belabor a point about a particular wine or region.

He is also insistent about when he will ship your wines and specifies the required temperature and humidity for proper shipping.

But these minor quirks are greatly offset by the pluses.

  • He seeks out wines that are organic, biodynamic and farmed sustainably  
  • He favors small artisan producers and family owned wineries
  • He obtains many wines direct so truly cuts out the middleman
  • He doesn’t use inflated scores from Somms
  • His wines are attractively priced
  • And he is unpredictable, sometimes offering olive oil, nutella, or food items. All high quality.

I enjoy reading his detailed notes because he truly knows his stuff. His background insights about vintages and regions are extremely useful. He is particularly on top of the vintage variations in France’s Burgundy and the Rhone.

He provided a detailed report on 2016 and 2017 based on travels and tastings throughout France and it is spot on. His remarks about 2015 and 2016 Bordeaux are the most reliable in the wine trade.

His analysis of 2016 in Burgundy and of the 2017 Northern Rhone are some of the best I’ve read.

And to this fellow Loire Valley lover, he has the inside track on Loire Valley wines:

“2018 is one of those “pinch me, this can’t possibly be true?” red wine vintages in the Loire. I can’t really compare it to anything else – it has the ripeness of a vintage like 1989 but the freshness of 1996 (another classic year.”

He also looks closely for super wines from Washington, of course but also Oregon. A recent Washington Tempranillo was remarkable.

He often locates super wines under $15 a bottle.

Here are examples of recent offerings:

  • 2018 Bourgueil, Domaine Cotellergie, $16.76
  • 2016 Scott Paul Pinot Noir, Chehelam Mts, $19.71
  • 2014 Rioja Riserva, Burgo Viejo, $13.98
  • 2017 Sancerre, Dezat $19.99
  • 2016 Renvoise “Jasmieres,” dry Loire Valley Chenin Blanc $16.70
  • 2015 Domaine de Cambes, Bordeaux $33.71
  • 2016 Ribbonwood Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough $7.99

He recently offered a lovely Provence Rose for sale at $9.99.

He found “the best Bordeaux you’ve never heard of” from 2011.

He comes across as frank, as in these recent notes:

“This is fastidiously produced Chardonnay without a smidge of pretense but the stuffing and expression to, well, pummel just about any other example from outside the Burgundian reach under $30. In addition, the impact is from fruit, stone and clarity, not from alcohol, wood or from winemaker strategic manipulation/enhancement.”

Or

“If you think “bargain” wine is devoid of potential pleasure or cannot be in the league of top-drawer entrants, guess again. This wine can easily compete with Sauvignon Blanc at 2-3 times the $ and many of its competitors are not as delicious to drink.”

Sometimes to keep prices low, he suggests buying 6 or 12 bottles or more which may seem like hype and hustle, but I think he is sincere and honest in his emphasis on offering value.

A maximum number of bottles a person may purchase is always listed, ranging from 6 to 60.

Pros:

Wildly eclectic selection not found elsewhere.

Excellent prices

Seeks out biodynamic and other green products.

Cons:

Complicated shipping procedures and delivery dates but only to assure wines arrive in fine condition.

Sommeliers: The Real Meaning of Curated

Revised: December 2024

The word “curated” pops up so often in the online wine retail sphere that whenever I encounter an offer or website that actually demonstrates creativity and skillful selection, I’m thrilled.

For you wordsmiths, the basic definition of the word “curator” goes back to a person who oversees a museum or a library. And before that, it frequently referred to those in charge of lunatics and asylums. Now that’s interesting.

“Curated” nowadays should indicate that a real professional or expert, if you will, actually used their expertise to seek out and select a special product such as a great painting or wine.

But in the online wine world, not all self-appointed curators,  sommeliers, or influencers are tried and true experts. Knowledge and experience are the keys to being an expert.

And lending your name or agreeng to let others use your brand when in fact you aren’t doing much curating is an interesting sidebar.

So In plain speak, some hard working people curate wines by getting off their butts and using  real, first hand experience as in tasting the wines against competitors to find real hidden gems.  

Discovering hidden gems. Now that’s how you become a wine curator.

http://www.sommselect.com is one of the best at it, and some of its wines can be totally off the radar and most are not discounted. It focuses more on imported wines.

Ian Brand whose label appears above is a real sommelier, winemaker and curator. But many of his wine selections are way out there in the world of rare, unique and esoteric curiosities. And relatively expensive. I applaud the fact that he focuses on family owned producers.

It seems the site picks wines that come with a narrative that appeals to those few folks who can afford the wines and who like wines others cant afford because of the status and bragging possibilities. Yes, that’s a definition of a wine snob.

Most sommeliers prefer to deal with imported wines to, among other things, show off their knowledge. And looking for the great bargain of the day is not how they approach wines.

For California wines, so many sites take the easy way out by hyping ordinary wines that won some medal somewhere. Or received a 90 point score or higher.

Listing wines that were rated in the 90s is not curating.  Today, a rating of 90 tells you very little, except the wine is okay. And the only thing that is more useless is for a sommelier to say this, for example, “this $50 wine tastes like a $100 bottle.” This is pure nonesense. Again, not part of curating.

One exception that is “curating” California wine in the good sense of the word is http://www.winespies.com. Many amazing selections that are available for one day only. The commentary is super hyped, but overall the selections are noteworthy.

Another one that has vastly improved its “curated” wine is http://www.wineaccess.com  It has an excellent team of sommeliers doing the searching.

However, for California and Northwest wines, there is one website that in many ways comes across as more like a personal wine shopper with an eye on value. It is reversewinesnob.com run by Jon Thorsen. I’ve watched his website steadily improve in its wines offered. There are three special deals a week, but the pace is a slow version of a flash sale. Most wines are offered in 3 or 4 bottle packs with a reasonable flat-rate shipping.

Before getting into specifics, here’s his basic pitch:

 “Reverse Wine Snob® where wine doesn’t have to be expensive to be good! We’ve been thumbing our nose at overpriced wine since 2011. Want to join us on this journey? Sign up for our 5 Day Free Guide where you’ll learn:

– How to not be intimidated by wine

– Why price has little to do with quality

– How to shop the big retailers”

“If syrupy, sugary sweet Moscato with an ice cube is your thing, go to town. Likewise if it is vintage Châteauneuf-du-Pape.”

What first sparked my interest were some Oregon wines that were my favorites. Over the last few years he has offered Amavi Cabernet from Walla Walla and an impressive list of Pinot Noirs from Ribbon Ridge, Stoller, Lange, King Estate, J. Christopher, and Sass. Topping the list from California are wines from Wrath, Handley Cellars, J. Lohr, Steele Wines, St. Francis, and Pedroncelli. Gard and Desert Wind are two of his “discoveries” from Washington. 

He works hard to find wines that can be offered below $25 a bottle, and he has a system now worked out to deal directly with many wineries. From our recent conversations, he stresses the fact that he prefers authentic wines, not just a label from a large corporation. He is well-aware of private labels since he reviews wines from Costco and Trader Joe’s on a regular basis. While unusual for a retailer to even acknowledge these major outlets, Thorsen has compiled lists of the best wines from each. 

Reversewinesnob is to be applauded for challenging the impulse most people have to equate price to quality. That’s at the core of snobbery. 

It takes a non-SOMM to counter snobbery. 

Setting the Bar High for Wine Clubs

  • Yes, there is one wine club that is near perfect and it is the Silicon Valley’s best kept secret.

  • It is family-owned, and has been a successful winery since 1992.

  • The winery setting is fantastic and, for added points, it is Certified Sustainable.

  • And, for me, the clincher is the wide range of excellent wines, all nicely priced

Clos LaChance is the winery and is located in the Historic Santa Clara Valley

In addition to several visits, I was recently there for the membership pick-up and special tasting day.

Even on an overcast Sunday, the place was bustling, people were happy, and the live music only added to the atmosphere.

Typically three levels of membership are offered. But you can enjoy most of the perks in the basic Platinum Club, with 4 wines shipped 4 times a year and 25% discounts.

The setting, once you drive passed the long, unexciting entry road, is beautiful. Frequently, a site for weddings, it has super vineyard views with a golf course and mountains off in the background.  

It is the setting for a summer music series which I’ve attended and, along with the sold-out crowd, enjoyed the lively, fun-filled event.

But I’m a wine guy and here’s where Clos LaChance scores bigtime.

(All prices quoted are before member discounts.)

The 2016 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon($25) and the 2015 Reserve Cabernet ($40) are richly flavored and are on a par with Napa’s at only half the price.

The 2016 Viognier Reserve ($20) and 2014 Syrah Reserve ($30) are excellent Rhone-types.

The 2016 Malbec Reserve and 2015 Cabernet Franc Reserve, both at $36 are stunning examples of  each varietal.

For casual entertaining and fun sipping wines, the Grenache Rose and Sauvignon Blanc are hard to beat.

I could go on about other wines, but by now the point has been made: if you are thinking about signing up for a highly-rated wine club, you should visit and check out Clos LaChance.

Clos LaChance

1 Hummingbird Lane

San Martin, CA 95046

(408) 686 1050

www.clos.com