Oregon’s Most Diverse Wine Region: The Rogue Valley, Part 1, Updated and expanded in March 2024
Unlike the Willamette Valley, the Rogue Valley makes such a wide variety of wines that it defies easy generalizations. Though small by comparison with just in excess of 5,000 acres planted, the Rogue Valley grows 70 different wine varieties. Yes, from Albarino to Zinfandel. Acreage is expanding and so is the number of wineries, now well over 100.
It is not unusual for a Rogue Valley winery, most of which are small and family owned, to cultivate over a dozen varieties and offer a dozen or more wines. But why is this diversity of any interest to normal wine consumers? Well, being a normal enough person, as I began exploring Rogue Valley wines, my skeptical voice kept saying the stale “Jack of all trades, master of none” refrain.
But after visiting dozens of wineries and evaluating many wines, I’ve concluded the rewards are numerous. Other than the obvious one of having more choices, you can discover varietal wines like Tannat or Vermentino at one winery, top-notch Roussanne and Cabernet Franc at another, and Tempranillo blended with Malbec, an unusual duo at several. You can also find a Mourvedre and Montepulciano and a Carmenere.
Also, it struck me that because most of the wineries offer such a wide range of wines, visiting the area to buy direct or joining one of the clubs can be like one stop shopping.
The Background: Preparing for the Journey
Taking its name from the Rogue River, the Rogue Valley was approved as an AVA in 1991 which makes it relatively new in wine years. It is the southernmost growing wine region of Oregon. It is also large in size being 70 miles wide by 60 miles long. The AVA runs from Ashland in the southeast through the north and south sides of Medford and stretches to Grants Pass in the west. Today. What makes this diversity possible is that vineyards are planted at different elevations with different aspects and soils which lead to a wide range of opportunities.
While most of today’s wineries started after 2000, the Rogue Valley is actually Oregon’s oldest wine region, with first vineyards planted in the 1850s. And it is home to the State’s first operating winery opened in 1873. Because most of today’s vineyards were developed after 2000, many wines, Rhones, Spanish, or Italian, are likely made from relatively new vines farmed with the latest techniques. Typically, vineyards are densely planted and organically grown with “sustainable” a common theme.
But since consumers naturally like to have reliable information and advice, the question of what is the Rogue Valley’s signature wine needs to be addressed. On my first few visits, I thought the star was Syrah, but then I tasted a stunning Grenache from 2-Hawk (now Padigan), a beautiful Viognier from Quady North, Cabernet Franc from several wineries, and more recently Tempranillo from Peter William Vineyard and others. And then there are creative blends such as Tempranillo and Syrah.
Getting Acquainted, One Winery at a Time
If you are unable to visit, then the best introduction to Rogue Valley and its wines is a virtual tour of the leading wineries. Your tour guide accepts tips, of course.
Our first five stops are in the Applegate Valley located on the west which was established in 2000 as a sub-region within the Rogue. With over 700 acres under vine, the Applegate Valley “has a warm-summer Mediterranean climate, like much of coastal California. However, it has four very distinct seasons, a relatively short growing season, and fog is not a factor. Winter is cold, with occasional snow. That allows the vines to go into full hibernation. Half of the area’s annual 20-30” of precipitation arrives in winter.”
Quady North
Established in 2004, Quady North has 15 acres under vine and grows 12 different varieties. Most are Rhone grapes, but it also farms Cabernet and Cabernet Franc. It recently relocated its facility and tasting room to the Applegate Valley. Owner Herb Quady is from the California winemaking family, Quady Vineyards, best known for its dessert wines. With Quady North, he is focusing on the Rhones, especially Syrah, and special blends. Keep an eye out for his Cabernet Franc named La Battalla and his Viognier. The 2021 “La Battalla” typifies the hands on approach as the winemaker co-ferments Cab Franc with 15% whole cluster Malbec in open top fermentors using native yeasts. Old school maybe, small batch definitely and absolutely fascinating wines. The single vineyard Syrahs lead the way.
Troon Vineyard
Tucked away in the Applegate Valley a few miles away from Quady North, Troon is the real deal when it comes to farming. It is a Demeter Biodynamic® Regenerative Organic CertifiedTM Farm which is populated by bees, sheep, and chickens. Among its recent successes, Its 2020 Tannat is a big, multi-layered Tannat with balance and refined tannins, unlike what typically comes our way from South America. It was co-fermented with 24% Malbec and 75% was aged in neutral French oak for 18 months.. Dark in color, it is brimming with ripe plum, and raspberry aromas with background notes of baking spices. On the palate, there’s good concentration in a polished, medium-bodied package. It remains vibrant right through the lingering finish. Impressive and enjoyable now and over the next several years.
Also keep an eye out for the Amphora Amber which is made from Vermentino, a variety Troon has explored for years and used in a wide range of wines, this one is their version of an orange wine. You have to try the Tannat, but my recent favorite is the 2022 Siskiyou Syrah, beautiful and nuanced.
Schmidt Family
On its 40 acre estate vineyards, Schmidt Family Vineyards in Applegate Valley grows 14 varieties, and produces 6,700 cases a year. It also makes 25 different wines in a given year.
The tasting sits in the middle of beautiful gardens with picnic tables inviting visitors to linger and relax. Many come for the food, especially the pizzas. As for the wines, I like the Albarino Reserve and also the Viognier. As is true of so many wineries, it has a hit or miss track record with Viognier. But it hit the bullseye in recent vintages. The 2021 exudes the orange blossom, honeysuckle aromatics that show Viognier at its unblended, unoaked best. Medium full on the palate, it is rich and smooth in texture with a delightful floral and citrus-edged finish. It is downright refreshing. A versatile summer white!
Plaisance Ranch Applegate Valley
A real working ranch with 157 acres devoted to certified organic vineyards and to grassy pastures feeding beef cattle. Most of the land is devoted to pastures. Now run by third generation farmers, Suzi and Joe Ginet, Plaisance is located in a remote corner of the Applegate Valley. They literally do everything by hand from grafting new vines to bottling the wine. About two dozen wines are made from the family vineyards, each in small quantities. But after tasting through the roster on a sunny afternoon, I came away amazed at the consistent quality. Their Carmenere is a solid version with excellent varietal character and no excesses. It is deep in color and offers aromas of black plum, cocoa powder and pomegranate in a medium bodied, well balanced package. One of the best I’ve tasted not made in South America. The plum flavors are vibrant and the tannins are gentle. Their Sauvignon Blanc is also very attractive.
Red Lily Vineyards
Dedicated to Spanish varieties, Red Lily Vineyards has emphasized Tempranillo since it started out in 2008 when vines were established along benchlands of the Applegate River. Winemaker/owner Rachael Martin tells us her “newest vineyard site planted to Tempranillo “has a predominantly northern aspect on a varying slope surrounding a knoll, and sits at an average elevation of 1500 feet.” And another vineyard site “has a predominantly western aspect that rises to an elevation of 1630 feet.” She makes Tempranillo in three styles, including a Rose. A rare Verdejo is another of her specialities. The site is beautiful and picnicking along the river is especially peaceful. The picnic is complete with my favorite, the Tempranillo Rose.
Cowhorn Vineyards, Applegate Valley
With biodynamic and Demeter approved farming, Cowhorn has attracted some well-deserved media attention for its Rhone wines. Only home grown grapes are used and vines are densely planted at 2,600 vines per acre. A little pricey for the area, but good to high quality. Of those tasted, the 2015 Sentience (100% Syrah) was loaded with fruit and peppery notes and lovely rich texture. The ”Sprial 36”, the flagship white Rhone blend, is delicate, beautifully textured and sells for $28
As you can see in this first part we have discovered excellent rhone wines led by Syrah and Viognier, as well as Tempranillo, Malbec, Albarino, Tannat, Carmenere and the list goes on.
Stay tuned…there’s much more ahead for us to go Rogue.
Norm Roby's Unfiltered Guide to Savvy Wine Shopping 