Tag: california

Is Grenache the New Pinot Noir?

Is Grenache, aka Grenache Noir, the next Pinot Noir?  That’s not as far-fetched as it may seem at first glance since the Grenache name has become highly visible with the growing popularity of Grenache Rose. But no, I don’t think there will be a follow up to “Sideways” with Miles dumping a bucket of Pinot and singing the praise of Grenache.

However, it has come a long way and Randall Grahm puts things in proper perspective when saying, “I never thought I’d see it but Grenache definitely seems to be having a moment.”

While Grenache is not about to replace Pinot Noir, I can’t count the times a recent conversation or comment about Grenache was somehow linked to Pinot Noir. Bill Easton of Terre Rouge Vineyards sees it as “sort of a warmer climate Pinot Noir. Delicate; less tannic; tends to be more complex when blended with a bit of Mourvèdre and Syrah” while Mike McCay of McCayCellars calls it “Lodi’s Pinot Noir.”

In El Dorado, Cedarville’s Jonathan Lachs told me “I introduce our Grenache as our middleweight wine, similar to a Pinot Noir, though equally regal, with less oak dependance and a tremendous sense of place.” 

I’ll return to a comment from Randall: “As someone far wittier than I once said, “Grenache is the grape that Pinot Noir drinkers are in fact looking for.”  My slight reformulation of that is:  “For my entire career I’ve been trying to make Burgundy in California.  It just took me a while to realize that the most successful “Burgundy” in California is not likely to be made from Pinot Noir.”

After several more winemakers emphasized the grape’s Pinot Noir like delicacy and sensitivity to site, that was enough for me to put on my deep diving gear and check out what’s going on with Grenache in California. 

A Little Background

The first step took me back to 1989 when the Rhone Rangers were making news and being the cover story of The Wine Spectator. That was also the year of Randall Grahm and Bonny Doon’s first vintage Grenache named “Clos de Gilroy.” There were only a few winemakers who viewed it positively and were aware of the importance of Grenache in Châteauneuf du Pape. The most  passionate voice was that of John Alban who admits today that “Grenache has been our unwavering obsession.”  From his first vintage onward, he says he  was “determined to figure out how to grow and produce a California Grenache that people might just respect.”  

He went on to clarify his position: “When I spoke of establishing respect for Grenache, it was breaking the paradigm and silly notion of noble varieties: nobility is in the wine, not in the variety.  I wanted to make a Grenache that people viewed as delicious and cellar worthy.”

Like many of his fellow Rangers, Alban knew Chateau Rayas was a rare Chateauneuf-du-Pape that was predominantly Grenache. Unlike them, he went to France and apprenticed in the cellars of Rayas. In a recent conversation, he explained what he and others were up against when he returned:  “The prevailing notion was that California Grenache was limp in color, texture, structure, and appeal. I have referred to these wines as ‘pinky dink picnic wines.’ These warm climate, deep soiled plantings pre-dated sincere efforts for a quality wine by many decades.” Starting out way back then, he adds, “you naturally have a consumer base that is imprinted with the perception and experience of Grenache as mass produced plonk.”

Unlike the other Rhone varieties, Grenache was not unknown. It just had a bad reputation. In the mid 1970s, there were 20,000 acres planted in California.  In 1990, there were still plenty planted, some 13,000 acres, but all but 1% was in the warm Central Valley. Overproduction was the main problem. Jason Hass of Tablas Creek recalls that when his dad, Robert Hass, was considering starting a winery in California, there was “a photo my dad sent me of him holding a Grenache cluster he’d found in the Central Valley. It was the size of a basketball and probably weighed 20 pounds!” 

Moving Inland

Today’s total acreage approaches 5,000 and the majority is in the Central Coast, not the hot Central Valley.The good news is that over half of the current acreage has been planted since 2000, and much of the newer vineyards were in Santa Barbara, San Luis Obispo, and  Paso Robles. On a smaller scale, but no less important, were new plantings of Grenache in the Amador and El Dorado counties since 2000.

As a silver lining,California’s  phylloxera epidemic in the 1990s opened the door for exploring clones, emphasizing matching rootstocks to clones and better farming practices: all of which eventually helped resuscitate Grenache. In 1989 Tablas Creek began importing cuttings from Beaucastel, and John Alban was focusing on clones from Rayas. With a new emphasis on sustainable farming and organic practices, he and others went to work on controlling Grenache. He adds, “My effort started from the ground up: careful selections of the variety that had demonstrated the ability to make profound wine, rootstocks that would limit vigor, and vineyard sites that had the potential for greatness.”

Leaving the question of greatness aside for now, Grenache has certainly come a long way and has responded especially well to today’s sustainable and or biodynamic farming approaches. Selecting vineyard sites is part of the story, and I discovered there are two opposing camps: the high elevation advocates and the cool-climate school.

Mountain High

 I was surprised to find Grenache thriving alongside Zinfandel in the Sierra Foothills. So I asked around and Nolan Jones of Lava Cap has this to say when asked how it compares to Zinfandel:

“Grenache is considerably easier to grow and manage both in the vineyard and in the cellar. We rarely see problems with mold or mildew in our Grenache, whereas Zinfandel requires significantly more attention to prevent these issues. The ripening process also differs, with Zinfandel often needing 2-3 passes in a block due to unevenness. Grenache, on the other hand, ripens uniformly. Grenache also demonstrates good resilience to both heat and rain, unlike Zinfandel, which tends to raisin in heat and mold in rain.”

Lava Cap, family owned since 1986, has been making Grenache since 2000. Founded by a geologist, the family established vineyards at elevations high above the valley and coastal fog belt, ranging from 2,400f-2,700ft. The more I looked into the success of Grenache today, high elevation sites are one of the keys.  Basically, Jones explains, “the elevation and the resulting cool air, play a key role in limiting elevated temperatures during extreme heat spikes.” 

In recent years, Argentinian Malbec has dominated the link between elevation and wine quality, but now Grenache is adding a voice. When talking about it as a “mountain wine,” Jones explains, by that “I mean the fruit is fresh and vibrant as opposed to bulky and heavy, the acid is bright, and phenolics show a firm structure that is unique to high elevation sites.”  

Not far away is Cedarville Vineyards and its organically farmed estate at 2,500 feet in the Fair Play and El Dorado AVA. Delfino Farm’s Estate Grenache sits on granite soils at the 2,800 ft level. Also in El Dorado County, Madrona which also makes an excellent Grenache is situated at 3,000 feet in the El Dorado County Appellation. Madroña consists of three family-owned vineyards, and its 2019 Grenache, reviewed earlier, is a real bell-ringer.

In Amador County, Bill Easton of Terre Rouge has been making wines from Grenache since 1985. For his top of the line L’Autre he sources fruit from The Duarte-Georgetown Vineyard, located at 2,500 feet near the town of the same name. Another of my favorite discoveries is Weisinger Winery in Southern Oregon whose attractive Grenache is from the Avra Vineyard, elevation 2221 feet.

Cool Climate Grenache

However exciting those Mountain grown Grenache may be, the major hub of activity is the Central Coast where winemakers in Santa Barbara are promoting cool climate Grenache. Ironically, it was at the Hitching Post Restaurant in Santa Barbara where Miles in Sideways cursed Merlot and started the big push for Pinot Noir. 

In describing its 2023 Santa Barbara Grenache, Stolpman Vineyards, one of my favorite wineries, offers this tidy summary: “Light hued, cool climate Grenache has proven itself as one of the most compelling success stories out of Santa Barbara County.  When we nail the harvest date, the Grenache varietal naturally gives a ripe, fleshy red-fruit profile while retaining bright verve and balance.” And the Santa Barbara Winery adds this overview:: Grenache grown in cooler climates tends to develop spicier components than in warmer climes, …Cool climate Grenache has a long hang time for flavor development.”

When Bob Lindquist, an original Rhone Ranger, made his first Grenache at Qupe in 2001, he sourced the grapes from the  Purisima Mountain Vyd in Ballard Canyon. He is now making Grenache from the Reeves Vineyard in the San Luis Obispo Coast AVA under his own label. Here’s his take: “Cool climate Grenache is quite different from most of the great Grenache wines of the world, which are normally grown in warm climates such as: Châteauneuf du Pape; Priorat; Barossa or even Paso Robles.  This Grenache is grown in an area where Pinot Noir and Chardonnay dominate and excel.  The unique climate and geography of this part of the Central Coast allow Grenache to ripen fully, 4-6 weeks after Pinot Noir ripens! 

A few years ago I was blown away by the 2018 Amor Fati Grenache from Santa Maria Valley in Santa Barbara. It was so lively and complex that it remains one of my highest rated wines. At the time it seemed odd that the Tooth & Nail winery in Paso had developed the cool-climate Murmur Vineyard for Grenache. Now, nothing surprises me about Grenache.

News from Paso

As for Paso Robles, Tablas Creek Vineyards is a major part of the Grenache story. From its vineyards in the Adelaida District planted to the Beaucastel clones, many wineries have obtained cuttings from its nursery, and the winery now cultivates 18 acres of Grenache. When asked for his thoughts on Grenache today, Jason Hass said, “As for Grenache, yes, we find it versatile and rewarding. It’s relatively vigorous, productive, and easy to grow. It’s great as a lead player in a blend, as a supporting player, and (most years) as a varietal wine. It has fruit, spice, and acid.”

Anyone interested in Grenache and all Rhone grapes should subscribe to the Tablas Creek blog. There you’ll find a detailed history of all the varieties. If you really want to go deep, a recent post evaluated  20 different blocks of Grenache made by Tablas Creek in the 2024 vintage. 

Also, as part of its single vineyard line, Tablas Creek recently added a Grenache from

the Hook Vineyard, part of the Hahn property in the Santa Lucia Highlands, in Monterey County. The cool, coastal-influenced 122-acre vineyard includes 21 acres of Grenache Noir from Tablas Creek clones. “The climate, quite different from Paso Robles and on the coolest edge of where Grenache will ripen, leads to very long hang times, dark colors, and thick skins, making this 100% Grenache a fun contrast to our higher-toned expression of the grape.”

Yes, there are new and fun Grenache wines to explore. My conversation with Jason ended on this note: I also love that it’s a great rosé grape and (I think) a lovely grape to make a chillable red from. That gives growers flexibility to respond to a changing marketplace. And of course there’s the white variant Grenache Blanc, which has proven to be a superstar here in California.”

Of the many other wineries making Grenache in Paso, I was intrigued by the way Calcareous Vineyard introduced its 2023 Grenache with these words: Grenache has found a home in Paso Robles as not only a key contributor to our Rhone blends but as a standout single varietal as well. Known for its elegant texture, lively fresh fruit, and great balance, our Grenache is easily one of our best food pairing wines.”

Yes indeed, from Paso we hear Grenache is “a chillable red” and “one of the best food pairing wines.”

For anyone considering jumping on the Grenache bandwagon, one winery, A Tribute to Grace, is a Grenache specialist.  No kidding.  At its tasting room in Los Alamos, it offers nine different Grenache bottlings.

 And now for the last word, I yield to Paul Bush of Madrona, “Approachable in nature for sipping on the deck, but serious enough for the table. This is Grenache!” 

 Wines that reinforce the notion that Grenache offers a wide range of styles.

Delfino Farms Edio Vineyards El Dorado Grenache 2023 $40

Delfino’s high elevation vineyard was planted primarily to the Alban clone of Grenache. In 2023, the wine was 100% Grenache, whereas previous vintages were blended with Syrah. Aged for 10 months in neutral French oak and bottles unfined and unfiltered, this is a super example of pure vibrant, mountain grown Grenache. The color is a lively red, and the aroma is all about cranberry and cherry with light spices. Medium bodied, sleek and structured, it has fresh flavors of cherry and plum, with a slight tannic edge in the finish. The acidity lengthens the finish and leaves you thinking of serving it with light cheese or summer fare. 92

Lava Cap Winery El Dorado AVA, Sierra Foothills (California) Grenache 2023 $32

Deep red in color, it immediately offers an effusive aroma of baking spices with cranberry and light floral. The palate is smooth with vibrant flavors of black fruit, mostly plum and hint of dried herbs. Finishes with light, gentle tannin and a lingering note of plum. It was aged for 9 months in neutral French oak. Overall, it showcases youthful fruit and spice and you’d never know when tasting it that the alcohol is 14%. Drink now but will hold up well over time.  450 cases made. 93

 Lindquist Family Wines San Luis Obispo Coast, Reeves Vineyard  Grenache 2022  $45

From the cool-climate SLO region, this Grenache is blended with 20% Syrah. Each variety is fermented separately and aged for 11 months in oak. Then, once combined, the wine ages an additional 5 months. Dark in color, it has an aroma of black cherry and cranberry with plenty of spice. Solid and concentrated in flavors, it remains vibrant on the palate with a hint of herbs. Savory overall, it can be slightly chilled without losing its core appeal. As attractive as it is now, it will age with grace for another 5 years, probably longer. 94

 Terre Rouge Grenache “L’Autre”, Sierra Foothills 2016 $35

(78% Grenache, 15% Mourvèdre & 7% Syrah)

L’Autre means “the other one, “ it is now the winery’s top Rhône varietal blend. From the 2016 vintage, this confirms that Grenache based wines do indeed develop with cellaring. The Grenache is from Duarte-Georgetown Vineyard located at 2,500 feet and the budwood is from Chateau Rayas, Beaucastel, and Remelluri in Rioja. The wine opens immediately and is full of ripe plum, light spice and herbs on the nose. On the palate, it is amazingly rich and round yet elegant with black fruit flavors and just a hint of gaminess. Finishing soft with a velvety texture, it is so inviting to drink now but has the balance to continue to please over the next several years. 

The winery says it “is a dead ringer for a top Gigondas,” and that is an understatement.  95

Tasting Well-Aged Cult Wines 

 

As 2024 was coming to an end, I had an opportunity to taste two aged Napa Valley cult wines.  They were the Bond 2007 Pluribus and the 2011 The Mascot. Both belong to the father of cult wines, Bill Harlan of Harlan Estate. 

Just to make sure I got a good fix on the aging trajectory of these two, the bottles before me were half bottles, 375ml. There’s no argument that wine ages faster in half-bottles, we just don’t know how much faster. Both bottles before me had excellent levels of fill, and the corks were in excellent condition. There was some sediment on both corks. Those signs usually indicate the wines were properly cellared.

Parker’s Wine Advocate rated the 07 Pluribus 98+ and the Spectator gave it a 97.  From Parker’s notes, it was  “A wine of great intensity and full-bodied power yet with a freshness and delineation that are remarkable, this stunning wine should drink well for 25-30 years. Drink: 2010-2040.” 

The Wine Spectator reported: “Wonderful aromatics lead to a rich, layered mix of spicy currant, blackberry, wild berry and currant flavors that are full-bodied, intense, dense and concentrated, slow to reveal pleasing earth, black licorice, graphite and roasted herb. The tannins give the flavors great traction. To be released spring 2011. Best from 2012 through 2024. 566 cases made. “ 

Yes, both publications were reviewing the wine several months before it was released to the public.  That both these guys were given special treatment might explain the use of words like “stunning” and “wonderful” as some sort of indirect payback for advanced review samples. 

To return to the wines, here are my notes for the 07 Pluribus:

Good dark color.  With aeration, the nose was vague and with diligent swirling showed dried prune, a hint of tobacco, and walnut. Overall, it smelled like old wine. The body was smooth and the flavors were gentle. But the wine was going gently into that good night for sure. 

It would not surprise me to hear the Pluribus is now over the hill in a standard bottle. The value given it by wine-searcher is $525. Then again, people who pay that kind of money for a bottle are not likely to ever say they were disappointed if only to protect their ego and reputation.  As for some background, the Bond Pluribus which debuted in 2003  is from a  mountainous 7-acre site in the Spring Mountain District with steep exposures to the north, east and southeast. It comes with a high price and wine pedigree and was sold only to members  on a mailing list.

Among Harlan’s other wine projects is  “The Mascot” which was the brainstorm of his son, Will.  This wine was a Cabernet made from a selection of younger vines from the primary estate vineyards, and The Mascot made its debut in 2008. As I understand it, The Mascot was made from a selection of new vines created by the routine replanting procedure. The concept is similar to the way many of Bordeaux’s famous estates produce wine from young vines and they are known as “second label” wines. 

In 2018, Decanter Magazine reviewed the 2011 The Mascot and the description is interesting. I was intrigued by the last line: “2011 was a relatively cool year, which gives the wine its freshness. The nose is vibrant and seductive, with blackcurrant aromas. Sumptuous and concentrated on the palate, it’s also sustained by firm tannins and sufficient acidity. The finish is robust and long, and although intended to be drunk on release, it will certainly age.”

So seven years after the vintage and after being bottle aged for five years,  The 2011 Mascot seemed to have surprised the Brits, even though they awarded it only 92 points, as capable of further cellaring. The current vintage is priced from $125 a bottle on up, and according to wine-searcher, you can buy the 2011 for the same price at several retailers in the UK.

Of the two wines I tasted, The Mascot was more attractive and in much better condition. Even in a half-bottle, it opened up with airing and displayed a delicate aroma or bouquet of dark fruit and dried herbs. It was soft and harmonious on the palate and had just a touch of velvety tannin left that carried through in the aftertaste. It is 4 years younger and tasted younger. But on its own, it may have been more exciting to taste in 2018. 

The Takeaways

Tasting old wines is an experience that should never be passed up, but often it is not a pleasurable experience. 

Not all wines get better with age is an old saying but even those capable of aging dont always reward long term cellaring. 

With aged wine, it often turned out that each individual bottle ages differently. This I’ve learned over the years: two bottles from the same case in the same cellar  can and often do, taste different. Wine is full of surprises, both pleasant and disappointing.

As for wine reviewers suggesting a wine’s aging capability is a sign of greatness, it is at best a guess. People like Parker and many Somms today pump themselves up believing they have a special gift.  

Maybe they should heed Mark Twain’s view: “It is difficult to make predictions, especially about the future.”

The Mad Crush: An Insider’s View

If you are looking for a gift for the special wine drinker in your life, here’s a suggestion that is a sure bet to please, and it is NOT a wine.

The Mad Crush, a new edition written by Sean Weir is highly recommended for those who are into wine or remotely curious but also for anyone out there dreaming about starting a winery.  Available on Amazon ($14.95) this new edition is beautifully written by someone who knows his wine but more importantly, knows how to engage and entertain the reader. 

It is an easy read, but also hard to put down.

On one level, it is the story of Bill Greenough, who “left a successful business world in favor of moving to a remote canyon, digging out an abandoned old vineyard, and making wine off the grid.” The vineyard was established in 1880, abandoned after Prohibition, and Greenough began the process of restoring that vineyard in 1974. Today, the original 3-acre block of head pruned Zinfandel is still producing. Located in what’s known as the Edna Valley today, It is the oldest in San Luis Obispo County. Greenough added 6 acres of Zin in the 1970s and 80s.

The winery is now in the hands of  the second generation and still focusing on Zinfandel.

On another level, the book is also the story of this old vineyard established about 150 years ago which was tended to by several generations who like Greenough become full time stewards of the vines and the land. Along the way the book gives life to many of the cliches tossed around in the wine world. Among them are winemakers being caretakers of the land or stewards as many now like to say, along with communicating with the vines. Stuff like this is made believable through Weir’s first hand experiences and poignant observations.

What held my attention from the first page is the feeling the book is also about the author as he comes to understand the commitment needed to succeed in tending vines and making wines. And as the process unfolds, it may all sound romantic but you sense he comes to realize that pursuing the dream of becoming a winemaker, a dream so many people have shared, is not for everybody. 

Weir grew up in the wine country. He worked in the cellars of Kenwood Vineyard and saw first hand how the partners worked hard to make a go of it.  In 1992 as a student at Cal Poly in San Luis Obispo, he worked one summer as a cellar rat with Greenough as he revived the old vineyard. 

In 1995, out of the blue, Greenough contacts him to work the harvest. That included monitoring the vines as they matured, cleaning the winery, and  preparing for the harvest, crush, and fermentations. That experience, he explains, “is what ultimately drove him to write the book.” As the story unfolds, readers learn a lot about vines, making wines, cleaning, and dealing with the weather, equipment, and the workers during the harvest and crush. It is an inside look at the nitty-gritty, the dusty, dirty boots side of winemaking, not to forget the long hours.

When you go to Amazon for the book, there’s a plot summary. This is a revised edition and includes an afterword and a section called “Prunings,” consisting of some tidbits and stories that didn’t fit the main story.

As for the author, when asked about his winemaking experience after 1995, Sean notes:  “That was my third and final crush. That was enough for me. I caught the winemaking bug, but it wasn’t terminal.”

New Faces and Places: Sauvignon Blanc Rises Again

Sauvignon Blanc has been increasing in popularity and some experts are calling it the next hot wine. While I do believe Sauvignon Blanc deserves to become better known, what fascinates me is the way many of today’s most talented and daring winemakers are working toward a new interpretation. In this new style, it is sort of a marriage between the best of New Zealand Sauvignon and the best features of Lore Valley’s versions such as Sancerre and Pouilly–Fume.

But first, thanks to the boatloads of Sauvignon Blanc coming our way from New Zealand, Sauvignon Blanc is now familiar to most wine drinkers. Some may not like the assertive style of New Zealand with its sharp green, herbal aroma and piercing acidity. But led by the ubiquitous Kim Crawford, Sauvignon Blanc is at least back in the game. So it is not surprising to see more and more Sauvignon Blancs from Chile joined by a few from Argentina, Australia and South Africa being positioned as less expensive and more appealing than under $20 Chardonnays and more flavorful than most supermarket Pinot Grigio.

While I do prefer widely available Sauvignon Blancs over the mass produced Chardonnays and sweet tinged supermarket Pinot Grigios, the most exciting trend is based upon a new style that emphasizes cool climate, site specific Sauvignon Blanc with some degree of what’s called “minerality.”

“Minerality”  is now widely used and  of course overdone, but it is definitely behind the new style of Sauvignon Blanc. Maybe it is just a cool word to use instead of smokey and flinty. That reminds me that Sauvignon Blanc was revived in California decades ago by going with the alternate name of Fume Blanc. But whatever is behind it, this new move toward a distinctive style, neither Kiwi nor Sancerre, is exciting. And the winemakers involved here on the West Coast are creative, risk takers willing to explore. 

The following reviews which have been posted at winereviewonline.com  best convey what I see as happening:

Cadre Wines Edna Valley, San Luis Obispo, “Stone Blossom” Sauvignon Blanc 2021 $22

With most of the fruit harvested from a Paragon Vineyard block planted in 1973, the wine was stainless fermented and aged on the lees. Once poured, this wine changes dramatically in the glass. It changes from flinty and green pea aroma and opens us to reveal secondary aromas of melon and white peach along with a wet stone kind of minerality. It offers plenty of vibrant flavors with mouth-coating texture, and it picks up lovely herbal and chalky nuances before finishing on a long, long crisp aftertaste.

Iterum Wines  ‘Old Friend’ Oak Grove Vineyard, Willamette Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2021 $50

Veteran winemaker Joe Dobbes is focusing on small lot wines from special vineyards under the new Iterum label. This inaugural Sauvignon Blanc is from an old vineyard Dobbes has worked with since 1989. The wine is effusively aromatic and very much in line with top quality Sancerre. It combines chalky, wet stone aromas with lime, grapefruit and fresh cut green apple. But then it performs amazingly on the palate with a rich smooth texture and multi-layered flavors. In the finish it turns on the crisp acidity, lime and lemon peel notes that linger. Beautiful, long aftertaste. Technical details explain it did not undergo M-L, and was fermented 50% in stainless and 50% in Acacia barrels.  It was then aged 7 months before bottling.

Padigan, Rogue Valley (Oregon) Sauvignon Blanc 2023 ($27)

 Sauvignon Blanc from Oregon has been getting lots of media attention recently.  Several wineries in Southern Oregon are key players, including Padigan. This 2023 is its 8th vintage and the 2023 growing season enabled Sauvignon to achieve full ripeness at a relatively low 22.5 brix.  After the wild yeast fermentation, half of the wine was aged “sur lies” for 6 months in neutral oak.  Bright, yellow-green in the glass, the wine quickly showcases lime, melon and flinty aromatics and the flavors add a layer of  juicy ripe mango for added depth. The texture is rich and supple and the finish emphasizes ripe fruit and that flinty nuance.  Probably best to enjoy within the next couple of years.  From the winery estate vineyard.  227 cases produced.   

Matzinger Davies Winery, Columbia Gorge (Oregon) Sauvignon Blanc “Gorgeous-Savvy” 2021 ($25):  Once commonplace, “flinty” is rarely used these days to describe Sauvignon Blanc, but this wine reminded me that flinty can be an accurate descriptor for distinct versions.  This version is made by veteran winemakers who seek out special vineyards.  Anna Matzinger, now a consultant, served as winemaker and general manager for Archery Summit for 14 vintages.  Michael Davies made wines for Rex Hill and A to Z wineries. This Sauvignon is from the Garnier Vineyard on the southern bank of the Columbia River.  Winemaking notes include fermenting and aging in a combination of concrete egg, stainless steel, and cigar-shaped oak barrels.  After primary fermentation, the wine was aged 6 months on light lees.  Light in color, the nose of this wine is seriously flinty and herbaceous.  Medium bodied, it offers flavors of mostly grassy fruit with a leesy texture.  Brisk in the finish with hints of flint and minerality.       

Verdad Wines, Ballard Canyon (Santa Barbara County, California) Sauvignon Blanc Rusack Vineyard 2023 ($35): This is the inaugural Sauvignon Blanc from Louisa Sawyer who sourced the fruit from the Rusack Vineyard which meets her requirements for being certified organic and for an ability to retain good natural acidity.  The Sauvignon vines are also 20 years old.  She fermented the juice entirely in stainless steel to allow the site to shine through.  The aroma is vibrant, with lots of melon fruit along with figs and flinty-chalky hints.  Medium bodied with similar melon flavors, it has a pleasant roundness in the middle palate before the acidity kicks in to bring it to a crisp finish.       

Never heard of Cadre, Iterum, Matzinger Davies, Verdad or Padigan? Well hold on, the parade of new names is just forming.  

Many of these new faces are making these daringly different Sauvignon Blancs from lesser known places such as Edna Valley and Rogue Valley. Add to that regions best known for other wines, specifically Oregon’s Willamette Valley and Santa Barbara and there’s much more awaiting us.

In my next post, we’ll look deeper at this new style of Sauvignon Blanc coming from Oregon.

From there we will move to the Central Coast and focus on the key players and the special vineyards they are working with.

Exploring Guadalupe ValleyWines

5 Takeaways from Guadalupe Valley 

Throughout 2023, numerous stories appeared in national media outlets announcing Mexico’s Guadalupe Valley as “the next Napa Valley.” Or Guadalupe as “Mexico’s Napa Valley.”

In one of those annual reader survey pieces, it finished a close second to Walla Walla. 

Travel articles with a romantic getaway theme or wine country destination focus were common.  A google search for Guadalupe Valley wines will show dozens of travel suggestions, tours tips, tour packages, tour guides and itineraries featuring wineries and culinary recommendations. 

 Located about 60 miles south of the US border, or just over an hour’s drive from San Diego, Guadalupe’s wine route has come alive with new wineries, new resorts, boutique hotels, and trendy restaurants. Wine-related income in Guadalupe Valley hovers around $200 million a year.

No longer flying under the radar, Guadalupe Valley secured international recognition in late 2022 by hosting the 43rd annual World congress of vines. Many of its wines win awards and medals in various annual wine competitions. With only 25 wineries existing before 2005, Guadalupe is now home to 150+ wineries, 100 restaurants, 92 hotels and boutiques, and 12 taco stands. A few sources now say there are over 180 wineries. 

Regarding viticulture, Guadalupe Valley is a real anomaly. Standard logic in all textbooks maintains that wine grapes should only be grown within the 30 to 50 latitude. Guadalupe is located at the 21-22 degree latitude and there are over 10,000 acres planted to a wide range of vinifera varieties. 

Defying logic, the mantra in Guadalupe is that it is all about altitude, not latitude. Located at elevations from 500 to 2000 feet above sea level, most vineyards benefit from cooling breezes from the Pacific on one side and the Sea of Cortez on the other. With wide diurnal swings during the summertime, the climate is basically Mediterranean. Or “best described as Mediterranean” as one winemaker explained because being dry and desert-like, it doesn’t fit into any neat category. 

So after postponing a planned visit due to covid, I finally visited this much talked about wine valley in Northern Baja. Research before the visit entailed reading many of the feature stories and, of course, tasting as many Guadalupe wines that were available during my stay in Cabo San Lucas.

My vinous version of the Baja 1000 began by departing the totally screwed up city of Tijuana in a crappy rental car that barely made it out of town. Later in the day we were welcomed to Guadalupe by rain that challenged the car’s wipers. That’s right, rain in Guadalupe Valley is about as common as rain in the Sahara.

That rain was a great omen or set up for a series of unexpected experiences that followed when visiting wineries, tasting wines, and getting a feel for this most unusual wine region. The rain made the sandy roads to the wineries even more challenging to navigate with deep potholes filled with water along with rocks and a few chickens. But holding on tight to the wheel we visited the region. What follows are takeaways from five wineries that capture the uniqueness of Guadalupe as not only an emerging wine destination but also an exciting wine producing region.  

“This can’t be Nebbiolo,” I tactfully mentioned to the Vinedos Malagon hostess. It was deep garnet, concentrated, with ripe flavors and some tannin. She brought over the bottle and yes it was Nebbiolo. I shouldn’t have been so surprised since the previous wine was Malagon’s Grenache, also unusually rich. She explains that the winery has access to Grenache planted by Russian immigrants in the 1940s. That’s right, the vines are at least 70 years old. And as for Nebbiolo, it was said to be brought into Guadalupe long ago but identity tags were never found to verify its DNA. Well, that was my first visit.

#1 Takeaway: Prepare for Guadalupe wines that aren’t typical and for wines made from odd, old varieties, old vines.

Malagon was founded in 1997 when only a dozen wineries were operating in Guadalupe and very few wine varieties besides Grenache and Nebbiolo were planted. Pedro Domecq opened a winery in 1972 but like many of the distillers who arrived earlier, it favored Palomino and Colombard in the early years. Also in the 1970s Jim Concannon and others from California visited and introduced then popular varieties such as Chenin Blanc, Petite Sirah, Zinfandel, Barbera, Cabernet, Carignane, and the once popular Ruby Cabernet. The latter variety is a key component in Domecq’s XA red and Petite Sirah is one of Cetto’s most popular and attractive wines. 

Today the Valley’s wineries reflect a balance of an international cast of characters and local families. Those established varieties attracted foreign investors such as the Henri Lurton Medoc family. It seems telling that Bodegas Henri Lurton’s flagship wines from Guadalupe are Nebbiolo and Chenin Blanc. 

Next stop was Casa Magoni whose wines I had enjoyed prior to the visit. In the new tasting room, white wines were first offered and they were not the typical blends. Magoni poured a Chardonnay and Fiano blend named “Manaz.” Also, another white brings together Chardonnay and Vermentino which is just as impressive. Among the reds, the Sangiovese-Cabernet is excellent, but the most unusual tasted was labeled Origen 43 which combines Montepulciano, Aglianico, Canaiolo, Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon. All those varieties were established 16 years ago. But, of course, Magoni makes a Nebbiolo which is excellent.

Turns out that Camillo Magoni, who studied Enology and Viticulture degree from the Enologica a Di Alba in Piedmont, Italy was invited by the Cetto winery to work in the cellars. After 40 years he left to establish Casa Magoni where he introduced many Italian varieties as well as others from France. Today with more than 100 different grape varieties on 278 hectares, this is the largest experimental vineyard in Guadalupe and all of Mexico. 

#2 Takeaway

Today with over 100 wine varieties being grown, some of Guadalupe’s finest wines are rare combinations and unique blends. There’s the Red from SantoTomas that is made from 34% Mission, 33% Tempranillo, and 33% Carignan. I love Emerve’s “Isabella” which brings together Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Viognier in a bright, full bodied style. El Cielo’s 2020 Blanc de Blancs consists of Sauvignon Blanc and Chenin Blanc with a good dose of Palomino and Chardonnay. 

So be prepared to encounter wines with fanciful proprietary names derived from the planets, the stars, children, family pets, nicknames, whatever. 

Moving on, I finally visited a new winery unknown to me but one I drove by several times: Emerve.

Many of the new wineries are locally owned and started by home winemakers or by cellar workers moving on after apprenticing at one of the big wineries. That door opened In 2004-2005 when Hugo D’Acosta who studied at Montpellier, France, and the Agrarian University of Turin, Italy, organized La Escuelita, a school teaching local farmers and families the fundamentals of winemaking and cellar procedures. The school also functions today as a cooperative, providing the necessary equipment to growers and future winemakers to make wine. 

Today, Emerve, which was one of those wineries,  draws from 18 ha and produces around 5,000 cases a year. In addition to a lovely Rose of Cabernet, Emerve is best known for its proprietary blends. “Isabella” brings together Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Viognier mentioned earlier. There’s a red Bordeaux named “Los Nietos” and another red blend, “Armonia de Tintos,” a blend of Merlot, Cabernet, Syrah and Cabernet Franc. That cuvee was aged for 8 months in a combination of French and Hungarian oak.  It is much more than a simple red. And just for a little variation there’s a 100% Shiraz that’s bottle aged for 5 years before its release.

#3 Takeaway

While the top 3 wineries of Cetto, Santo Thomas, and Bodegas Pedro Domecq produce 80% of wines from Guadalupe Valley, there are 100 or more small family owned businesses offering a wide variety of high quality wines. And the wines are often unique.

Next up in my learning journey, Casta de Vinos

Whether it was sheer luck or fate, my visit to Casta was truly eye opening. Opened in 2010, Casta is an authentic mom & Pop family winery with Sergio Castañeda as owner/winemaker and Claudia, his wife, as director. With an annual output of 4,500 cases, Casta makes 12 wines, 10 red. The 2018 “Domina,” a 100% Merlot exudes charm in an elegant style, and the 2019 “Cirio,” a Cabernet Sauvignon and Mourvedre blend is big with multi- layered flavors. “Casta Tinta, “ a Bordeaux blend, could easily be mistaken for a young Medoc. Another amazing accomplishment, the 2020 Syrah is heavenly and stylishly refined for a young Syrah. I also liked the Petit Verdot. Clearly, the winemaking is top notch and shows a subtle use of small oak and tannin management that makes this one a genuine superstar.

#4 Takeaway

Not only are there many new wineries, Guadalupe is a paradise for anyone who loves to explore and discover previously unknown wineries. Or one that opened the week earlier.

Tuscany also has a strong foothold here thanks to the Paoloni family.  Born in Tuscany, Paolo Paoloni left his post as an Enologist at the Perugia University to manage the Valle Redondo wine company in Aguascalientes, Mexico. After several years with Valle Redondo, Paoloni purchased 38 hectares in the Toros Pintos section of the Valle de Guadalupe. 

If anyone doubts the uniqueness of Guadalupe, well the wines that were presented at the Paoloni/Villa Montefiori winery will erase all doubts.  First came the dramatic 2020 “Ross del Valle” made from 100% Montepulciano with amazing concentration. It is the first mono-Montepulciano from Mexico. Even more exciting was the 2019 Nebbiolo, a dark colored, deeply flavored version, aged for 15 months in French oak. Then the house speciality is Nero d’Avola, and the 2018 aged 12 months in oak is stunning for its depth and layers of flavors.

#5 Takeaway

Located on a steep hillside, Paoloni’s vineyards look beautifully maintained, indicating that grape growing here is as good as anywhere. Overall, the yields work out to be slim by Napa’s standards, estimated as between 1.2 to 2 tons per acre. With little water available, irrigation is not excessive with many vines being dry farmed.

 I heard during my visit  and have also read that farming practices are moving toward sustainability and organic methods.  Carrodilla is said to be the first certified organic and biodynamic vineyard in Mexico. More recently, Santos Brujos which makes a lovely Tempranillo has earned its stars as a certified biodynamic vineyard. 

So, I’ll stop here after noting that despite what you may be thinking, Guadalupe Valley wines are showing up in more and more US markets. That was reinforced a few weeks ago when looking over the shelves of Desert Wine, a small retailer in Palm Desert, there were several Paoloni wines and a few others.  

Thankfully, in 2024 you might not have to travel along those bad dirt roads to explore Guadalupe Valley wines. Check out  the list of wineries available and which states they are sold in at La Competencia Imports in Napa, Same goes for Tozi Imports on the East Coast, Nossa Imports in Arizona and Beso imports in Washington. LMA imports in San Diego specializes in wholesale to restaurants. 

And one more thing about those rough, unpaved roads: don’t expect any improvements soon. Arguing that bad roads attract good tourists and good roads will appeal to the loud, rude, sloppy wine drinkers who will ruin the character of the Valley, a powerful resistance group has been organized to control growth.

In other words, they don’t want Guadalupe to become the “next Napa Valley,”