Month: January 2026

Embracing Higher ABV Wines in 2026

Dry January is almost finished and has gotten lots of media attention so far. And, no, this is not another diatribe against Dry January. About all I need to know is that it began in the UK in 2012 and became an annual event the following year. If people want to avoid any alcoholic drink for a month there’s no harm done and it’s their prerogative. So no judgment. 

For those people enjoying wine without pausing, this is a good opportunity to come to terms with the fact that the alcohol content of wines from most regions is trending higher. It is not just a California thing. Nor a West Coast thing. 

Time to Reboot and Re-Set

So while others re-set or pause their lives this month,  the rest of us, writers, educators, and wine lovers, all need to re-set or re-think how we are going to approach the new norm of high alcohol wines. Especially red wines.

The trend has been well-documented. Kathleen Wilcox, reporting  in Liquor.com summarizes things this way: 

“A study of alcohol levels over the past 30 years by Liv-ex (The London International Vintners Exchange) revealed that wines from California, Piedmont, Tuscany and Bordeaux had higher levels on average for the decade between 2010–2019 than they did in the 1990s. 

Bordeaux increased, on average, from 12.5–13% ABV in the ‘90s to 13.5–14% in the 2010s. California rose from around 13.5% to more than 14.5%.”

Based on vintages since 2019, the averages today are likely higher. Red wines, in particular Cabernet Sauvignon and Zinfandel are the most obvious wines trending higher. Need more proof? Sorry about the use of “proof.” The best-selling Rombauer Carneros Chardonnay 2023, from a cool-climate, is 14.6 % abv. A popular red wine is the 2023 The Prisoner which clocks in at 15.2% abv.

Here’s my review posted at the end of 2025 that got me thinking:

2022 Justin Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve, Paso Robles $60

“Here is a big, powerful Cabernet that pushes the envelope. The 2022 vintage was another drought year, and Paso Robles experienced late season heat waves. Made from 100% Cabernet that was aged for 21 months in French oak, 50% of it new, it clocks in at 15.5 % alcohol. However, when tasted blind, it offers an aroma of ultra-ripe black berries, chocolate, and spices that by the final swirl is absolutely gorgeous. Full-bodied with very juicy black fruit flavors and spice backed up by toasty oak, it all holds together seamlessly thanks to integrated tannins. The finish ends on a light toasty oak note. The real challenge is to pair it with a comparably robust main course.

Obviously, I loved the wine. But why in retrospect, did I feel duty-bound to note the alcohol content? 

Old habits do die hard. Wine writing in the USA began with the coming of age of The Wine Spectator, the Wine Enthusiast, and the Wine Advocate. Writers back then shared, yes including Robert Parker, the fundamental belief that if wine has a purpose, it is to complement food. And maybe spark a little conversation around the dinner table. Bring people together and be enjoyed. Or all of the above. 

As wine writing in the US expanded from the 1990s onward, most of us never lost sight of the wine and food affinity or marriage because we didn’t dare want to encourage drinking an alcoholic beverage. Anti-alcohol campaigns never totally disappeared, so we aimed for a balanced approach. 

The federal government, in its infinite wisdom,  assumed long ago for tax purposes that table wine is defined as having between 7% to 14% ABV. So long as the wine was under 14, wineries had a 1.5% leeway and didn’t have to be precise. A wine under 14% can simply state  on the label that it is “Table Wine.”  For those wineries preferring to provide a number, the majority often use 12.5% for any wine below 14%.

The point is that it was almost like a punishment for any producer not playing by the rules. Then you add the required Surgeon General’s warning about drinking wines during pregnancy or operating machinery on the back label, and it’s easy to understand why the food message continues. Oh, and let’s not forget the sulfites.

And just now, when the industry is dealing with weakening consumer markets, the anti-alcohol message was back and loud even before Dry January.  One day there’s a report that drinking any wine is bad for you; the next day a glass or two is ok. No wonder we are now seeing de-alcoholized wines or low-alcohol wines and gentle pet-nat beverages.

With climate change on the minds of most intelligent wine industry leaders, maybe they have to accept as part of the change that wines today, reds and whites, are made from riper grapes and are generally high in alcohol on average. Along with climate change, the science of winemaking has advanced to the point where yeast strains are specially selected for each wine and often are stronger, meaning they convert more sugar into alcohol during fermentation.

So What!

Wine, unlike other beverages, changes over time. Even Bordeaux wines are not the same as they were 25 years ago. Heat waves in 2003 and 2005 were not aberrations, but served to wake producers up to the reality of climate change. The benchmarks writers used 25 years ago to rare new Bordeaux vintages should be rejected or at least modified. A wine today doesn’t have to have an aging potential of 1o or 20 years to be “great.” 

Along the way as everyone adjusts to the new normal, we’ll have to revise many of the classic wine and food combinations. The big, bold Cabernet-based wines don’t have the youthful tannins and grip that were part of the under 13% ABV profile. Savory seems to have emerged as a flavor description. Textures are often said to be velvety and plush, which again might change the food compatibility. Best of all, you don’t need to cellar them and refer to a vintage chart from a wine expert. 

Moving on

For my part, as sort of a New Year’s resolution, I’ll stop making reference to a wine’s ABV when reviewing a wine. So here goes:

The Big, Red Monster Paso Robles, Central Coast (California) Zinfandel Lot #2 $20

Yes, here’s a Paso red wine that boasts about being big. Now owned by War Room Cellars based in San Luis Obispo, this brand began in 2005 as a partnership between winemakers Bob Pepi (formerly of Robert Pepi winery) and Jeff Booth (formerly of Conn Creek). The brand was relaunched in 2019 and aimed at a market that loves big and powerful wines. 

Promoted as a “savage beast,” this Lot #2 is Zinfandel blended with Petite Sirah and Tannat. After an extended maceration “for bigger extraction,” it was aged in French and American oak, 20% new. While definitely big and ripe, it offers an attractive aroma of blackberry and pepper with some spiciness. On the palate it is round but ultra soft and has enough fruitiness to keep the tannin and ripeness in check. 

Lava Cap Winery El Dorado, Sierra Foothills (California)  Barbera 2023 $40

From the winery’s Tectonic Series” highlighting barrel selections from vineyards planted in young volcanic soils at high elevation sites. Bold and concentrated,  this is a unique expression of Barbera. It has an opulent nose of spicy dark plum with some anise and black currants. Big and round on the palate, it delivers lots of ripe fruit and an earthy undercurrent. Plush with integrated tannin and good balancing acidity, it tasted bright and youthful a day after being opened. Dense and concentrated, it was aged in neutral French oak.

You pretty much know a wine labeled Big Red Monster will be unusual, but the Lava Cap Barbera introduces us to the new normal. It does not remind you of a Barbera from Asti or Alba except for the color. Everything else is atypical of Barbera.  

But it also is a great wine that for me ushers in the new normal in 2026.

The Unique Flavors of El Dorado’s Mountain Wines

The “Tectonic Series” by Lava Cap showcases unique wines from El Dorado County, emphasizing their distinct mountain soils and high elevations. Winemaker Nolan Jones highlights the benefits of volcanic soils and how they enhance wine purity and flavor. The series aims to present exceptional red wines, starting with a standout Barbera.

“Tectonic Series” may sound like some new Netflix series, but it refers to  wines that every  curious wine lover should know about. Placing myself in that group, when Nolan Jones of Lava Cap in El Dorado County wondered if I might be interested in his Tectonic Series”  I was all in. 

Nolan explains the background this way:  “Every year, certain lots stand out for their ability to capture the essence of our mountain soils and high-elevation vineyards. The “Tectonic Series “is my way of bottling these rare wines not defined by vineyard or variety but by their fascinating and one-of-a-kind expression of El Dorado red wines.” 

 So he had me at “rare,” but then added one of a kind, really? The key ingredients here obviously are mountain soils and high-elevation sites. Mountainous wine regions can be found in Napa, Lake County, Mendocino, and Santa Cruz. And from the 1990s on, Argentinian winemakers have made high elevations their key message. 

But the closer I looked into the Lava Cap story, the more I learned or re-learned about high elevation vineyards and volcanic soils and what they bring to the winemaker.  And, better yet, how they expand the wine tasting experience. 

El Dorado County wines today are some of the most exciting  and diverse that somehow still fly  under the radar. Three years ago my enthusiasm was evident in an article posted at winereviewonline.  Three wines were singled out—a Barbera, Viognier, and a Rhone GSM–and all were distinct and way above the ordinary. Shortly thereafter a Cinsaut from Holly’s Hill and a Malbec made by Miraflores also won me over for their unusual depth and liveliness.

Other than rating them all highly, I never stopped to explore what they had in common beyond being from El Dorado. Now, having tasted the Tectonic Series and after Nolan answered a few questions,  I’ve learned a lot. And am happy to share.

Mountain High

Though no one can  top Argentina for elevation, El Dorado is probably the highest on the West Coast, and with his experience there Nolan provides a crash course on the advantages of high-elevation sites:

“El Dorado is unusual in that the AVA is largely defined by elevation, roughly 1,200 to 3,500 feet, and our estate sits about 2,400 to 2,750 feet. As air moves up the Sierra Nevada it is forced upward through orographic uplift, and it cools through the adiabatic process at roughly 4 degrees Fahrenheit per 1,000 feet of elevation gain. Practically, that means ambient temperatures here run meaningfully cooler than the Central Valley below and, importantly, our daytime highs are often moderated during heat spikes.”

He continues adding this: “We typically see more sunshine hours during the growing season. At the same time, higher elevation increases UV intensity, which acts as an environmental signal in the skins and is associated with phenolic development. That combination of sunlight hours and intensity can support skin-derived compounds while still preserving freshness because the air temperatures are cooler than many lower sites.”

Now for the Dirt on Volcanic Soils

Soil types and their impact on wine have attracted considerable attention, especially with the now trending descriptor, “minerality.”  Limestone soils remain center stage thanks to France’s Bourgogne, Chablis and Sancerre. Wine historians remind us how an exhaustive search for limestone soil in California to grow Pinot Noir led Josh Jensen to develop Calera in Hollister.

 I should mention limestone has been found in the southern end of Paso Robles. 

But otherwise, there’s probably more volcanic soils in California than limestone. Oregon, especially in the Willamette Valley ranks right up there with its Jory soil series being heavily volcanic. And not to be forgotten, many of the wine regions of Chile are also distinguished to some degree by volcanic soils.

Lava Cap is owned by the Jones family, and as the winery’s name implies the owners probably know a thing or two about volcanos. Back in 1979, U.C. Berkeley Geology Professor David and his wife, Jean Jones, purchased the property in El Dorado County and established their winery in 1981. The winery is run today by  their children, Emmet, Kevin, and Nolan.

David Jones, was a geologist who played a significant role in advancing the theory of plate tectonics. He was attracted to that site in El Dorado because of its volcanic soils, specifically the Miocene Mehrten Formation. After admitting my ignorance here, Nolan kindly helped me understand why these soils are distinct:

“Volcanic soils” can mean many things, but at Lava Cap a large portion of our estate is derived from the Miocene Mehrten Formation. In simple terms, we’re farming on roughly 10 million year old andesitic volcanic and volcaniclastic material laid down as ash flows and volcanic debris, compacted over time, then weathered into a thin topsoil over deep volcanic parent material. In the vineyard, that typically presents as very coarse, rock rich profiles with high macroporosity, rapid infiltration, and generally low inherent fertility compared to heavier valley soils.”

“From a viticulture standpoint, our Mehrten derived soils naturally moderate vine vigor because both plant available water and nitrogen availability are constrained. The canopy is easier to balance, there is less lateral growth pressure, and we typically get better light distribution with less internal shading without extreme intervention. Where the effective rooting zone is shallow or the profile is especially rock dominated, we often see smaller berries and a higher skin to juice ratio, which increases color, tannin, and flavor concentration.”

As a quick summary of the above: The grapevines grow in a thin layer of porous soil over hard, fractured, rock. So drainage is high and the vines are stressed from minimal access to water. Or, as I heard from a noted winemaker many years ago, “vines don’t like wet feet.” 

As the winemaker, Nolan works closely with his brother, Emmet, educated as a geologist, who is now in charge of the family’s high-elevation vineyards.  

From that background, it was time to focus on the wines from the Tectonic Series. For the two 2023 wines in this series, Barbera and Zinfandel, fruit from the Camino vineyard at 3,000 feet elevation was combined with fruit from another in Fairplay at 2,400 feet. The organically farmed Camino vineyard, is rooted in deep volcanic soil, …and the Fairplay Vineyard is ‘characterized by warmer temperatures and well-draining granitic soils.” 

Now the Wines

But when pressed on why these wines are different from other wines from high elevation sites, he said, “when combined with naturally moderated vigor on rocky Mehrten profiles, you tend to get wines that show clarity, energy, and freshness with structure without heaviness. In reds, that often reads as tighter, more defined fruit and a more compact, savory structural feel rather than purely plush or jammy.”

That description was unexpected, since others working with volcanic soils have mentioned the wines acquire an earthy, smoky, or mineral character. In other words, from the geologist’s perspective, the wines don’t acquire an aroma and flavor profile that can be traced to volcanic soil. 

While my questions and the responses were going back and fourth, the wines were tasted. 

First up was the 2023 Barbera, and here are my notes from a review posted at winereviewonline.com 

 “Bold and concentrated, this is a unique expression of Barbera. It has an opulent nose of spicy dark plum with some anise and black currants. Big and round on the palate, it delivers lots of ripe fruit and an earthy undercurrent. Plush with integrated tannin and good balancing acidity, it tasted bright and youthful a day after being opened. Dense and concentrated, it was aged in neutral French oak.” 

It definitely was different from some of my favorite Barberas from Asti and Alba which tend to be middle weight, tannic and often a bit rustic in the good, bring on the pizza sense. 

Three years ago my posted review of another El Dorado Barbera, the 2019 by Boeger, went this way:

“It is a big mouthful of a wine that has an amazing structure and somehow remains vibrant and refreshing.  With a little airing, it displays the lovely blackcurrant, dark berry and spice side of Barbera with nicely layered flavors that are surrounded by fine grained tannins.  It can be aged for many years, but I found it appealing now with its solid core of fruit and rich texture.”

Without knowing it, I happened upon an unusual style of Barbera. While the Lava Cap and Boeger versions are not identical, they share many similarities. Too many to be a coincidence.

So with his Tectonic Series, Nolan set out to showcase the distinctive red wines of El Dorado. With Barbera, he makes a convincing case. It may not be to everyone’s taste, but it definitely is worth checking out.

We will leave the discussion of the Tectonic Series Zinfandel for another time.