Going On and On About Roussanne

Roussanne is a white wine that is full of promise. It is a challenge to grow, but winemakers and vineyard owners are on a sharp learning curve.

Here are two textbook examples:

Truchard Vineyards Carneros, Napa Valley Estate Bottled Roussanne 2023 $30
One of the first to make a Roussanne in California, Truchard planted 3 acres back in 1998. Over the years the Truchards have learned how to deal with the variety’s many challenges. In 2023, they harvested Roussanne in early November, and fermented the juice in French oak barrels (20% new). As the wine aged on the lees for 6 months, it was frequently stirred and went through a partial malolactic fermentation. Showing some green in its light yellow color, the wine opens up and is both vibrant and full flavored.  Nectarine and apricot fruit aromatics lead the way and pick up subtle jasmine and a touch of oak with swirling.  Medium full-bodied, the wine is smooth and continues with flavors of peach, apricot and citrus which are delivered with a hint of minerality and firming acidity. Layered and balanced, it is solid now and should peak in 3-4 years.  94

Peter William Vineyard Rogue Valley (Oregon) Roussanne 2024 $28.50 Roussanne Is a challenge to grow, and the winery made a few viticultural changes in its estate vineyard. In 2024 those changes paid off and resulted in a vibrant, textured wine. Harvested in mid-october at a relatively low Brix of 22.8, this Roussanne was barrel fermented and aged for 5 months in neutral French oak. Straw colored, it offers an attractive aroma of white peach with hints of ginger and jasmine for added intrigue. Medium-bodied and smooth in texture, the wine remains vibrant with rich flavors of peach and some honeyed notes. The finish is long and lively with some of that ginger spice showing up in the aftertaste. 93

If you love hearing about winemakers who think out of the box, well then read on. Founded by Sue Tipton, Acquiesce Winery & Vineyards is a white wine specialist in Lodi. You heard right, Lodi white wines only. The story goes that when vacationing in the Rhone Valley, she tasted a white Châteauneuf-du-Pape and that changed everything. Not long afterwards, she researched the white varieties, discovered Tablas Creek and its nursery, and, well, uprooted her Zinfandel vineyard and went full on white rhones. At Acquiesce today she offers wines made from Picpoul Blanc, Grenache Blanc, Roussanne, Viognier, Bourboulenc, and Clairette Blanche as well as several blends.

She was the first in California to plant the Bourboulenc variety and has not backed down when dealing with the white Rhone problem child, Roussanne.  But to those winemakers who love a challenge, it can be rewarding.

Acquiesce Winery & Vineyards Mokelumne River, Lodi Roussanne 2022 $41

The 2022 Acquiesce Roussanne is a perfect example of the multi-faceted white. Harvested in late august from the estate’s 2 acres, this Roussanne  is incredible in many ways. It keeps changing in the glass as it airs, and in the final analysis, is nuanced and balanced. The medium yellow color has a youthful green edge. The initial aroma of peach and jasmine takes on a hint of honeysuckle and tea.  On the palate it is medium full-bodied, soft and smooth in texture, and the flavors of peach and green tea also have a mineral, chalky back taste. There’s just enough acidity to add to the finish which still has a fresh fruit and chalky aftertaste. Entirely stainless steel fermented and lees aged, it can be matched with your favorite white wine main course.  94 points

Roussanne is known to improve with cellaring, so this 2022 will be fascinating to try again in a few years.

And here is proof positive that it ages well indeed:

Domaine de la Terre Rouge Sierra Foothills (California) Roussanne 2005 

From the winery’s cellar courtesy of Bill Easton. The color here is medium yellow but with some lively green glints. Don’t let the “old” look mislead you because this wine is still very much alive. The aroma is a combination of nectarine and candlewax with some citrus and green tea subtleties. Concentrated with layers and layers of flavors, the wine offers a silky smooth, creamy texture through bottle aging. Ii has developed some pear and honey flavors and a touch of almond but it is all seamless and harmonious at this stage. Finishes long and lively. What a treat to experience how well Roussanne responds to cellaring. It held up well when tasted a day later. Amazing wine.

 

Also, see my  other reviews of  Roussannes at http://www.winereviewonline.com

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Author: robywine, norm roby

My career as a wine journalist/critic began in 1975 when my article about California Petite Sirah was published. My focus remained on California as I edited a monthly wine magazine and then moved on to The Wine Spectator in 1982. Over the following years, my column appeared under the banner of “Stormin’ Norman, and I also wrote articles about wine collectors and wine auctions. Without getting into a year by year bio, let me try to summarize here. During my time with The Spectator which I enjoyed immensely, I taught wine classes at a culinary school and at other venues in San Francisco. Before venturing into wine, teaching was my thing, English Lit and Rhetoric. After The Spectator I was the U.S. Contributor to Decanter Magazine, writing mostly about California, but also expanding into Washington State and Oregon. My Decanter years began in 1992 and after buying a summer home in France in 2000, I traveled throughout France and eventually published articles about St. Emilion, Castillon, Bergerac, Minervois, Roussillon, Luberon, Provence, and Alsace. Also, around 2000, my wife began working for Cousino-Macul in Chile, so we tasted and traveled our way through Chile and, of course, managed to fly over the Andes and explore and taste our way through Argentina. As travel lovers, we have also spent many interesting days visiting the wine regions of Spain, Italy, Portugal, Scicily, Greece, and New Zealand. And to come to a close, I was Director of Winesong, a Charity Wine Auction for 20 years, 1992-2000 that benefitted a local hospital. That brought me in contact with wine collectors and to the auction scene. And finally, I co-authored a book, The Connoisseurs’ Guide to California Wine published by Alfred A. Knopf. It went through 4 editions and sold over 500.000 copies.

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